The BMW GS boxer twin thread

**Phreaky Phil** · 16th July 2010, 18:03

Originally Posted by igormortis

Phil, I do like the look of that Enduralast ignition. How's the front fork project coming along?

Due to the difficulty in getting triple clamps to suit the DRZ conventional forks ( they need a gull wing type bottom clamp or it will sit the front to high) i have decided to use my YZF 250 USD's. I have them at CKT with Robert so we can see about shortening them. I am looking at a set of clamps from Gletter,, but dont want to get these until the forks are sorted. We cant find stiffer fork springs that are shorter, so are looking to see if we can shorten the cartridge tubes and then can keep with stock length springs, but stiffer

**Taz** · 16th July 2010, 18:10

Originally Posted by That looks like fun

Not sure if that applys to air heads. I was told it only applied up until 97 and as my bike was a 99er figuired I was ok

However after a slight mishap involving a river

it failed to start

After that the wires were traced back and as Gerard has pointed out they were cracked further back up the loom due to heat. This allowed the water (Bloddy Tukituki river) to short things out resulting in the big no go

I'd better check mine out then I suppose.

**GSers** · 16th July 2010, 19:23

Originally Posted by Anthrax

I'd better check mine out then I suppose.

What years your bike, there is not much you can see from the outside, best wait until it stops. The wire has and outer plastic/silicone cover then sheilded like coax cable then wrapped and then the wires are on the inside you have to cut it all open to find the problem I have a 98 1100 done 73000 kms and has caused no problems If anyone wants some info on the 1100 hall sensor PM and I will send a file or else google it and you will find pages. regards GSers

**Taz** · 16th July 2010, 19:30

Mines a 98. Wouldn't it be better for me to check my wires now rather than 500kms from home. Can't be that hard.

**GSers** · 16th July 2010, 19:35

Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil

Due to the difficulty in getting triple clamps to suit the DRZ conventional forks ( they need a gull wing type bottom clamp or it will sit the front to high) i have decided to use my YZF 250 USD's. I have them at CKT with Robert so we can see about shortening them. I am looking at a set of clamps from Gletter,, but dont want to get these until the forks are sorted. We cant find stiffer fork springs that are shorter, so are looking to see if we can shorten the cartridge tubes and then can keep with stock length springs, but stiffer

Phreaky Phil who has your forks I am interested in hearing what you do to them. What travel are you cutting them back to. I bought a rolling YZ450 chassis that had a blown motor I intend using the tripple clamps forks etc the reason for manufacturing a new steering head and starting from scratch with the frame. I intend using all the YZ plastics etc and building a tank on top of the gearbox. There is alot of space back there on an 1100 once you get rid of the air box and fuse box. I had it all drawn up on the computer which blew up so there has been a bit of a set back and now MMM coming up plenty to do. GSers

**GSers** · 16th July 2010, 19:40

Originally Posted by Anthrax

Mines a 98. Wouldn't it be better for me to check my wires now rather than 500kms from home. Can't be that hard.

To check it out basiclly you wreck the wiring loom so would have to replace it there and then I am not sure what year they fixed it PM me your email address and I will send you some information I have that has pictures and you will see what I mean. regards GSers

**That looks like fun** · 16th July 2010, 21:55

Yeppers, you definatly dont want to start cutting to have a look as once you start you will bugger things for sure

I have a roll of the soopa doopa tape they recomend for wrapping it back up and its for sale by the inch (not plurry cheap)

**GSers** · 16th July 2010, 22:23

Originally Posted by That looks like fun

Yeppers, you definatly dont want to start cutting to have a look as once you start you will bugger things for sure

I have a roll of the soopa doopa tape they recomend for wrapping it back up and its for sale by the inch (not plurry cheap)

Lucky I kept me some a Mate. Catch you on the MMMM. GSers

**Phreaky Phil** · 16th July 2010, 22:29

Originally Posted by GSers

Phreaky Phil who has your forks I am interested in hearing what you do to them. What travel are you cutting them back to. I bought a rolling YZ450 chassis that had a blown motor I intend using the tripple clamps forks etc the reason for manufacturing a new steering head and starting from scratch with the frame. I intend using all the YZ plastics etc and building a tank on top of the gearbox. There is alot of space back there on an 1100 once you get rid of the air box and fuse box. I had it all drawn up on the computer which blew up so there has been a bit of a set back and now MMM coming up plenty to do. GSers

I like the way the GS handles so I want to match the original ride height and as the forks are longer(for the same amount of travel) as stock then I either have to run the front raised a bit if i want the 220mm of travel or about 200mm of travel if i want to run the front height the same as stock.I cant have the forks up through the top clamp or the will hit the fairing. As you cant get any more travel out of the rear without major changes, and i want to keep the geometry close to stock, I figure there isnt much point in having way more travel in the front than the rear. As for the clamps, they have a 38mm offset. If you fit clamps off a modern mx bike with offset of 20-25mm you reduce the steering lock by a heap. If you can live with this thats fine but I like, and use all the steering lock available so i want clamps with the 38mm offset. Im not sure of the other handling changes the 20-25mm clamps give but there must be some. There are a lot of modified Airhead dirt bikes with the mx bike clamps so they must work ok. Mid you , a lot are running longer travel which will alter things.If you are building from scratch or dont mind hacking things around you can easily get around the steering hitting the tank issue.

**GSers** · 17th July 2010, 11:19

Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil

I like the way the GS handles so I want to match the original ride height and as the forks are longer(for the same amount of travel) as stock then I either have to run the front raised a bit if i want the 220mm of travel or about 200mm of travel if i want to run the front height the same as stock.I cant have the forks up through the top clamp or the will hit the fairing. As you cant get any more travel out of the rear without major changes, and i want to keep the geometry close to stock, I figure there isnt much point in having way more travel in the front than the rear. As for the clamps, they have a 38mm offset. If you fit clamps off a modern mx bike with offset of 20-25mm you reduce the steering lock by a heap. If you can live with this thats fine but I like, and use all the steering lock available so i want clamps with the 38mm offset. Im not sure of the other handling changes the 20-25mm clamps give but there must be some. There are a lot of modified Airhead dirt bikes with the mx bike clamps so they must work ok. Mid you , a lot are running longer travel which will alter things.If you are building from scratch or dont mind hacking things around you can easily get around the steering hitting the tank issue.

Thanks Phil yeah there are a few issues the yz forks have 300 mm of travel I have had a look at the back end and you can get that amount of travel out of it. The rear swing arm has to be dropped from it current static angel of
16 Deg down to 22 Deg to get the ground clearnace and to keep the bottom of the engine parrallel with the ground I am currently working on making the jig to set it all up. Cheers GSers

**BMWST?** · 17th July 2010, 21:59

Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil

I like the way the GS handles so I want to match the original ride height and as the forks are longer(for the same amount of travel) as stock then I either have to run the front raised a bit if i want the 220mm of travel or about 200mm of travel if i want to run the front height the same as stock.I cant have the forks up through the top clamp or the will hit the fairing. As you cant get any more travel out of the rear without major changes, and i want to keep the geometry close to stock, I figure there isnt much point in having way more travel in the front than the rear. As for the clamps, they have a 38mm offset. If you fit clamps off a modern mx bike with offset of 20-25mm you reduce the steering lock by a heap. If you can live with this thats fine but I like, and use all the steering lock available so i want clamps with the 38mm offset. Im not sure of the other handling changes the 20-25mm clamps give but there must be some. There are a lot of modified Airhead dirt bikes with the mx bike clamps so they must work ok. Mid you , a lot are running longer travel which will alter things.If you are building from scratch or dont mind hacking things around you can easily get around the steering hitting the tank issue.

as far as springs are concerned its a well known science any spring place will be able to wind a spring exactly what you need

**Padmei** · 20th July 2010, 20:17

I arrived home from Hamner on Sunday night to find a new-to-me airhead parked under our house.

I managed to find some time to have a look at it yesterday & it is certainly a lot better than I thought it would be.

It has an oily butt & the anodising & rust needs attention but looks not too bad.

Of course it didn't take long for me to get into customising mode.

Here's my boys

As well as coming with the most goddamn awful panniers ever seen it had a nearly complete workshop ful of tools under the seat as well as some suspect looking spare parts.

i will email the PO & ask him what has been replaced & what may need doing. i had it running off a battery boost but wouldn't run if disconnected so am getting a new battery tomm as well as oil, filter & after that take it for a spin before I clean carbs & start the laborius task of removing the rust.

Once again many thanks to Anthrax for shipping it from Auckland to maramaura & javahead for storing it & dropping it off to my front door. Also thanks to Top & Warewolf & Eddie b fopr their input.

**JATZ** · 20th July 2010, 20:25

FFS Paders, how about I just sell you a proper Tenere. in need of a bit of t.l.c. but I'm sure you can take care of that.
Beemer looks o.k. though, I might have to swing by and give it the once over m'self