The BMW GS boxer twin thread

[Eddieb]

So no progress today. With Paladin & BMWST?'s assistance I was going to take the whole diff off the PD and slide the driveshaft back to give room to get the new driveshaft boot on. However every tool selling shop in the land is out of stock of 12mm allen drivers to undo the Pivot housing stub in the inside of the paralever.

Is there any other way I can slide the driveshaft back without undoing the Pivot housing stub? will undoing the Pivot shaft only on the outside of the paralever housing give any movement?

Now the G/S

There's no spark getting to the plugs.
While checking it over this afternoon we opened, cleaned and reseated every connector I can find under the tank but no joy. Twice during the afternoon it had huge gunshot blast backfires when the killswitch or ignition was flicked on, other than that there has been no life. After one of the backfires it was puffing black smoke when turning over.

Any suggestions, has the dreaded diode board gone in the G/S?

Oh, and the PD tank looks pretty mean on the G/s

[Howie]

[QUOTE=Eddieb;1129214875]So no progress today. With Paladin & BMWST?'s assistance I was going to take the whole diff off the PD and slide the driveshaft back to give room to get the new driveshaft boot on. However every tool selling shop in the land is out of stock of 12mm allen drivers to undo the Pivot housing stub in the inside of the paralever.

Is there any other way I can slide the driveshaft back without undoing the Pivot housing stub? will undoing the Pivot shaft only on the outside of the paralever housing give any movement?


Eddie, do you want an Allen key or one of the ones that fit onto your socket set? I have a 12mm Allen key that you could borrow, oo worse case scenario is cut it and fit a socket onto it, if you want.

Cheers

Paul.

[Box'a'bits]

So no progress today. With Paladin & BMWST?'s assistance I was going to take the whole diff off the PD and slide the driveshaft back to give room to get the new driveshaft boot on. However every tool selling shop in the land is out of stock of 12mm allen drivers to undo the Pivot housing stub in the inside of the paralever.

Is there any other way I can slide the driveshaft back without undoing the Pivot housing stub? will undoing the Pivot shaft only on the outside of the paralever housing give any movement?

I have a 12 mm allen socket. Give me a call.

Seriously doubt that the problem with the G/S is the diode board. That would result in charging issues, but doesn't have an impact on the ignition.

Cheers, Steve

[Kokopelli]

Eddie, it's much easier to just remove the swing arm. It will only take a few minutes. Just make sure that you tie the main stand to the crash bars, so you don't accidentally push the bike off the stand.

I think you'll undo the same amount of screws with either method.

You will need a torque wrench and you'll have to centre the swingarm afterwards to within .5mm. It's not hard. I 've done it by myself three times now. You'll need a 27mm socket.

The big plus is that you won't have to align the splines on the diff side, or heat up the pivot bearing to soften the Loctite.

Hope this helps.

[Eddieb]

I pulled the coil off the G/S last night. Can't see any cracks in it but did find this.....

??

[GSers]

I pulled the coil off the G/S last night. Can't see any cracks in it but did find this.....

??

Thats note a good look looks like its arcing through there from what I can see from the photo is it worth fitting the one off the 100 to see if that gets it going.
GSers

[Eddieb]

Thanks to Andy Mac The PD is on the road again. An extra pair of hands is definately what is required. I'm sure Andy won't be voluntering to do up any of those little clamps again.

Haven't even looked at the G/S yet. That will have to wait a few weeks.

[Box'a'bits]

Good to hear. So what way did you go - swing arm pivots or drop out the drive shaft?

Steve

[Eddieb]

Swing Arm pivots. seemed like an easier option overall.

Tell you what, even as tight as I am if it needs doing again it's going to a shop.

[BMWST?]

Good to hear Eddie,so my carbs and boot next weekend hehehe.I am gonna have a look at the carbs i think and maybe get a complete rebuild kit

[Kokopelli]

I did my carbs a year ago. Got the kit from the BING agent in the US. The bikes fuel consumption had been going through the roof, but now it's back from 8 litres/100km to just under 6 litres. There is lots of good info on Advrider. It's a good jobfor a rainy day.

Have a good look at the springs as well. Mine had been rubbing and one fell apart in my hands. The worst bit is the carb cleaner, that's evil stuff.

I actually like workinng on the airhead, it's a mechano set for big boys :-).

[BMWST?]

I did my carbs a year ago. Got the kit from the BING agent in the US. The bikes fuel consumption had been going through the roof, but now it's back from 8 litres/100km to just under 6 litres. There is lots of good info on Advrider. It's a good jobfor a rainy day.

Have a good look at the springs as well. Mine had been rubbing and one fell apart in my hands. The worst bit is the carb cleaner, that's evil stuff.

I actually like workinng on the airhead, it's a mechano set for big boys :-).

eddie tells me my PD is running rich,it runs poorly on very small throttle openings,starts readily,doesnt like the fast idle lever,and although it wasnt a completely full tank was only 360 km to reserve last time.How much was the kit and do you have choices for jets needles etc.(not that i know what to choose) I am going to follow infra's thread at ADV.My bike has done about 117 ks.

[Eddieb]

eddie tells me my PD is running rich,it runs poorly on very small throttle openings,starts readily,doesnt like the fast idle lever,and although it wasnt a completely full tank was only 360 km to reserve last time.How much was the kit and do you have choices for jets needles etc.(not that i know what to choose) I am going to follow infra's thread at ADV.My bike has done about 117 ks.

Rich is an understatement, the pipe is so wet it's almost dripping, Yet the economy it's returning is as good as my PD which appears according to the pipe & spark plug condition along with throttle response to be running sweet.

[Kokopelli]

Unfortunately I don't remember the cost of the unit. It will be more expensive anyway, due to different exchange rate. Here is the link http://bingcarburetor.com/bmw/bmwcvkits.html

Send them an email, you'll get a prompt reply. When I changed computers in January I didn't transfer all my old email records.

I pretty much changed everything apart from the floats, which still looked good. My needle showed a lot of wear, so that could have been the cause. Carbs are still a mystery to me, but they weren't difficult to rebuilt.

I wrote this at the time, for what it's worth http://forum.bmwor.org.nz/index.php/topic,1222.0.html

I would stick to the stock set up with needles and jets. They'll want to know the number on your carbs, to ensure they'll send you the correct kit.

[Eddieb]

Unfortunately I don't remember the cost of the unit. It will be more expensive anyway, due to different exchange rate. Here is the link http://bingcarburetor.com/bmw/bmwcvkits.html

Send them an email, you'll get a prompt reply. When I changed computers in January I didn't transfer all my old email records.

I pretty much changed everything apart from the floats, which still looked good. My needle showed a lot of wear, so that could have been the cause. Carbs are still a mystery to me, but they weren't difficult to rebuilt.

I wrote this at the time, for what it's worth http://forum.bmwor.org.nz/index.php/topic,1222.0.html

I would stick to the stock set up with needles and jets. They'll want to know the number on your carbs, to ensure they'll send you the correct kit.

Hi Alex,

How did you get the needle jet out?

Everything i read indicates once you remove the main jet and the needle jet holder it should just fall out, however neither of mine do.

Am I missing something I need to do?

I have new needles & needle jets waiting to go in.