Battery or not?

[BUNGY]

I know very little when it comes to the running of my bike so hopefully you guys can help.

A couple of days ago my bike wouldn't start. Had only been sitting in the garage a couple of days. Anyway crash started and was on my way. Started fine again the next time I tried. Then went to a mates last night and it started fine but then this afternoon the battery was flat again. A couple of minutes after crash starting again I turned on the lights and it died. Now about 5 minutes after getting home I tried to restart and the battery is still dead.

So my question is, is this likely to be a screwed battery or something like the alternator? Any help is appreciated.

[Ragingrob]

Sounds like more of a problem with the charging system side of things like the regulator or the such as opposed to a stuffed battery as it still starts fine sometimes.

Check that the terminals are screwed tightly on the battery, the slightest wobble of a wire and a bike may not start, so yeah check those battery terminals are nice and tight before anything else!

[TimeOut]

I know very little when it comes to the running of my bike so hopefully you guys can help.

A couple of days ago my bike wouldn't start. Had only been sitting in the garage a couple of days. Anyway crash started and was on my way. Started fine again the next time I tried. Then went to a mates last night and it started fine but then this afternoon the battery was flat again. A couple of minutes after crash starting again I turned on the lights and it died. Now about 5 minutes after getting home I tried to restart and the battery is still dead.

So my question is, is this likely to be a screwed battery or something like the alternator? Any help is appreciated.

Most likely battery, could be starter motor, regulator or alternator.

[TimeOut]

Do you know how old the battery is?

[BUNGY]

Do you know how old the battery is?

Wouldn't have a clue. I have had it for a little over a year so its at least that old. It did the same thing about 6 weeks ago. Wouldn't start after being off for on;y about 30 mins but after that has been fine until now. Dunno if that sheds anymore light on the situation.

[Ragingrob]

Seeing as it's temperamental I'd look towards either loose terminals or a dying reg/rec.

[BUNGY]

Thanks will check the terminals now

[elevenhundred]

Get yourself a multimeter, very handy tools to have.
Measure the voltage (DC) at the battery with the bike running, not sure about your particular bike but it should be reading around 13.5 volts when the revs are up. If it's lower check the voltage (AC) output of the alternator against the specs in the manual.
If the alternator readings are fine but the charging voltage is low it'll be your regulator/rectifier.
If the alternator readings are low then it's your alternator.
If both of these are fine then it will probably be your battery.

[Squiggles]

Charge it/replace the batt, then go from there.
I say this as you might have left the lights on, drained the batt to nearly empty...had to bump start. Short ride let it charge a bit so was fine for the starter the next time.

While the reg/rect or stator could be the cause, the battery is a cheaper place to start!

[Taz]

Does it have an alarm??

[BUNGY]

No alarm. Cant be the lights draining as they go off when the bikke is off. The only lights that can be on are park lights but that setting is past the steering lock which wasnt on

[BUNGY]

It also makes a loud sound from somewhere near the battery when you try and start it. Is that just the starter motor trying and failing to go?

[The Stranger:Me]

Charge it/replace the batt, then go from there.
I say this as you might have left the lights on, drained the batt to nearly empty...had to bump start. Short ride let it charge a bit so was fine for the starter the next time.

While the reg/rect or stator could be the cause, the battery is a cheaper place to start!

That is some of the dumbest shit I have seen on KB - and that's saying something.

If the reg is fooked you could toast the new battery too. Why would you advocate this? Whilst you may think it funny to mislead people it is not funny when you tell them to waste thier money or should it put lives at risk.

Pull the battery and put it on a charger. Once charged, put it back in and run your headlight on full for 3 - 5 minutes then test the voltage. If it is around 12.5 or more the battery should be fine. Less than this and it is probably toast.
Next, check the voltage whilst running. It should be around 14 volts with a little rev and less at idle.
If the charging system seems fine, then it may well still be the battery. If the voltage is high on charge it is likely the regulator rectifier at fault, if low it may be the alternator. There are ways and means to check both with a multi meter.

NEVER assume that the battery just died of natural causes. Frequently it is the charging system that kills the battery and it is simple to test the charging system. Save yourself some money and test it BEFORE replacing the battery or you may just waste the new battery.

[TimeOut]

It also makes a loud sound from somewhere near the battery when you try and start it. Is that just the starter motor trying and failing to go?

Probably, could be low voltage or the brushes in the starter fooked and needing replaced (brushes can cause a click and nothing when the starter is pressed then the next attempt seem fine)

[Squiggles]

That is some of the dumbest shit I have seen on KB - and that's saying something.

If the reg is fooked you could toast the new battery too. Why would you advocate this? Whilst you may think it funny to mislead people it is not funny when you tell them to waste thier money or should it put lives at risk.

I dont find it funny for people to waste money, I actually put "cheaper" rather than "easier" by accident. (Shock horror, a mistake on the internetz! We must be insulting! )

When it comes to the reg/rect; More often than not, they die intermittently, not outright. He's more than likely not going to know sfa more after a single testing session.
I'd charge the batt, and if its weak after a charge replace. Then wire up a multimeter and ride around with it connected, if it starts to under/overcharge you'll see it and be able to go from there.


Its quite possible he's done the park light thing, setting off all of this.
Edit: If checking the wiring, take a good look at the plug going into the reg/rect, they regularly end up charred if the unit is failing