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Thread: Who can check disc warpage?

  1. #1
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    3rd October 2004 - 17:35
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    Who can check disc warpage?

    A mate of mine has shuddering brakes, whos a good guy to send the disc's to, to check for warpage.

    I know there is F1 in Hamilton, but i think he'd rather have someone in Auckland/north shore he can just drop the disc off and have the guy tell him on the spot sorta thing is the disc is warped or not.


    Cheers

    Rm
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  2. #2
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    Take it to the disc warpage shop

  3. #3
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    Check it yourself.
    Prop up the front wheel and give it a good spin. Look at the disc edge-on from the front. If the plate moves side-to-side, it's warped. Generally speaking, a warped disc can not be straightened.
    It is possible that the carrier has taken a knock, and the disc rotor itself is ok, in which case a bit of gentle levering can improve matters no end.
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSTRS View Post
    Check it yourself.
    Prop up the front wheel and give it a good spin. Look at the disc edge-on from the front. If the plate moves side-to-side, it's warped. Generally speaking, a warped disc can not be straightened.
    It is possible that the carrier has taken a knock, and the disc rotor itself is ok, in which case a bit of gentle levering can improve matters no end.
    what do you mean carrier?
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by renegade master View Post
    what do you mean carrier?
    The centre part, that bolts to the hub. The rotor is the shiny outer ring that the pads contact. Often the carrier is alloy and if a disc gets knocked hard from the side, carrier can get bent. That is straightenable, but if the disc rotor has warped (say from heat) it is f**ked.
    This is for a floating disc of course, but your mates VTR has that type
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  6. #6
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    Put the bike up on blocks so the wheel can spin freely.
    Get a pencil and lightly touch the lead to the disk while holding the other end lightly against the swingarm or fork so stop it floating around
    Spin the wheel and let the pencil get pushed back if the disk is warped.

    Ideally you should have a solid line right around the disk, if not, the (lack of) pencil mark indicates where the warp is
    $2,000 cash if you find a buyer for my house, kumeuhouseforsale@straightshooters.co.nz for details

  7. #7
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    Older disks didn't have a separate carrier connected to the disk by buttons, but instead had machined flanges. Because of this, they used thin paper shims behind the flanges to compensate for minor manufacturing discrepancies. On these disks, you can straighten minor warpage as follows:
    Park the bike so the front tyre is clear of the ground.
    Immobilise the front forks (turning the bars to one side will do) so the wheel can't move side to side.
    Spin the wheel with a felt marker held against the fork slider so it's adjacent to the disk surface.
    Move the marker in, so it just barely touches the disk at a few points when it spins. This will leave marks on the disk, from which you can see which points "wiggle" outwards, and which wiggle inwards.
    If the warpage is minor, you can add shims under the low points of the disk, and remove them from point adjacent to where the disk wiggles outwards.
    If the warpage is a bit more significant, get a BigArse shifting spanner/ crescent (12" is good), and clamp it onto the disk where it's warped. Lever it in the appropriate direction in or out.
    Spin again to check warpage.

    Repeat as necessary.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by vifferman View Post
    Older disks didn't have a separate carrier connected to the disk by buttons, but instead had machined flanges.


    If the warpage is a bit more significant, get a BigArse shifting spanner/ crescent (12" is good), and clamp it onto the disk where it's warped. Lever it in the appropriate direction in or out.
    This is a late 90s VTR250. It has a floating disc.

    Be very careful with this method. The hub where the disc bolts is strong, but not overly so DAMHIK (remember this? http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...9&postcount=34 )
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSTRS View Post
    This is a late 90s VTR250. It has a floating disc.

    Be very careful with this method. The hub where the disc bolts is strong, but not overly so DAMHIK (remember this? http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...9&postcount=34 )
    actually its an 88 cbr250?
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by renegade master View Post
    actually its an 88 cbr250?
    Ah, thought it was this one http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...ad.php?t=98659
    Should still be a floater tho. CBR = 1 disc...CBR-RR = 2?
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  11. #11
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    yeah its a floater i think, cbr250 R single disc.
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  12. #12
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    I can measure it for you easily enough RM if you bring the bike to me.
    I can't do FA with it though if it is buckled - other than remove it and get it to F1 or replace it.
    You could always check pricing from Victorian Motorcycle Wreckers. I have purchased several rotors from them in the past. Good place to get low milage GSXR rotors as they are usually written off by about 10,000km.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tank
    You say "no one wants to fuck with some large bloke on a really angry sounding bike" but the truth of the matter is that you are a balding middle-aged ice-cream seller from Edgecume who wears a hello kitty t-shirt (in your profile pic) and your angry sounding bike is a fucken hyoshit - not some big assed harley with a human skull on the front.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Stranger View Post
    I can measure it for you easily enough RM if you bring the bike to me.
    I can't do FA with it though if it is buckled - other than remove it and get it to F1 or replace it.
    You could always check pricing from Victorian Motorcycle Wreckers. I have purchased several rotors from them in the past. Good place to get low milage GSXR rotors as they are usually written off by about 10,000km.
    how would you measure it?
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by renegade master View Post
    yeah its a floater i think
    Sounds like you are in the poo.....
    In and out of jobs, running free
    Waging war with society

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by renegade master View Post
    how would you measure it?
    A DTI [dial test indicator] known in the industry as a 'clock' is the accepted method of measuring run out. If Noel does not posses a DTI I can help out.

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