
Originally Posted by
2much
Ahh, now I'm with you. Cheers for the tip Sensei, it will be done (tho I might just get the settings and do it myself, got a quality torque wrench and f@ck paying a mechanic $60/hr to do such a simple job)
Torque ,,its a funny ole game No seriously That a sound bit of advice ,,especially for thin walled castings .and bikes that use the cases as a stressed member ...CBR s fall into the above ,,,very easy to warp the cases on those ..
Now Torque wrenches and Torque ...I have a expensive superduper wrench and I use a bendy bar cheapy ..one from repco ..more accurate ...
Now onto torque .... the tourque on a bolt can change widely depending on the state at which it is used ..lubed and un lubed ..even the type of lube used ....so while the manual will say 60 foot lb u could be well under that if the threads are dry and not perfect ...
You can go up to the 90 % proof stress of the nut ...So 10 percent over the manuals recomendation ( on a dry thread, nut and bolt ) wont hurt things you could go 20 percent easily .....
What I do is go 10 percent over and use Loctitie 242 ,,,,( better to overtighten than to under tighten ,,,,( NOT in aluminium ,,,,same rules apply but the proof stress of aluminium is a LOT LESS!!!! )
Engine mounts DO come loose ,,,I have lost one front engine mount this year ...It was tight ,,,I remember clearly ,,,but the things shift ..Metals creep and the nut will fall off,
So a touch of BLUE 242 ,,,fixes that
Nuts and bolts ,,,interesting subject .....
BTW ...HOW much for an indicator thats daylight robbery ...Hope its all sorted now and you are back on the road ...life is dull without a bike .........
Stephen ..
Jim if you are ever quoted 4 weeks and 40 dollars for a bolt Email me I will see what it really costs and the postage takes 5 day door to door oh and cost 1.50 for a letter .....
"Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."
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