Hydraulic Clutch adjustment

[WanaGo]

Hey,

Is there a way to adjust the hydraulic clutch on a ZX9R?
Its been bled and fluid has been changed, but Im finding it jumps a little when you change into first, from a stop, and have also had it creeping along a little when sitting at lights with clutch fully in.
Its a bitch to try and push when its in gear with the clutch in too, like it is binding a bit, like the clutch isnt fully releasing.

Any ideas?

Cheers
WanaGo

[Jantar]

Rather than clutch adjustment, I'd suggest you change your gearbox oil. It sounds as though your clutch plates are binding.

[WanaGo]

Gearbox oil, righto. I dont know if that was changed or not when I got it, ill look into that.
Also - ive noticed that sometimes when Im changing gear, it doesnt go in, and makes a rather sickening crunch/grind, esp at higher revs. Or putting it into first when the choke is on, in the morning, rather large crunch noises can happen.

WanaGo

**EDIT** Does the ZX9R have a seperate gearbox oil to main engine oil?
I havent had it that long to know!

[onearmedbandit]

No, engine oil is the same as gearbox oil.

[Teflon]

into first when the choke is on, in the morning, rather large crunch noises can happen.

WanaGo

**EDIT** Does the ZX9R have a seperate gearbox oil to main engine oil?
I havent had it that long to know!

I would turn your choke off first before riding.

Leaving your choke on for to long is not good for your motor, there is theory behind this, think it's somthing to do with comtamination of the oil, but i'm not 100% sure about that.

[FROSTY:Me]

I know it aint the same bike but all 5 kwakka 1000's I had were a bit draggy on the clutch when cold and a bit clunky into first gear.
That said I agree with previous posts -change ya oil and see if that makes a difference--especially if the bikes been standing a long time in a shop.
Id be tempted to buy some really cheap shit oil and run the bike for half an hour and dump it . Then put new oil and a filter in it.

[Sensei]

Gearbox oil, righto. I dont know if that was changed or not when I got it, ill look into that.
Also - ive noticed that sometimes when Im changing gear, it doesnt go in, and makes a rather sickening crunch/grind, esp at higher revs. Or putting it into first when the choke is on, in the morning, rather large crunch noises can happen.

Has your bike been raced before you got it?? Sound's like you need to look at the Metal & fibre plate's , Plus check you clutch spring length is within spec.
Most bike's crunch when put into gear in the morrning ,Have found if you pull the clutch in & hold it for 30sec with motor running it help's . As for it not going into gear sometime's just check that your gear change arm doesn't have to much free play . I move mine so that the foot change is abit lower so that when you up change it select's better as going down is not were you are under load hope this may help you out
SENSEI

[WanaGo]

Gearbox oil, righto. I dont know if that was changed or not when I got it, ill look into that.
Also - ive noticed that sometimes when Im changing gear, it doesnt go in, and makes a rather sickening crunch/grind, esp at higher revs. Or putting it into first when the choke is on, in the morning, rather large crunch noises can happen. WanaGo

Has your bike been raced before you got it?? Sound's like you need to look at the Metal & fibre plate's , Plus check you clutch spring length is within spec.
Most bike's crunch when put into gear in the morrning ,Have found if you pull the clutch in & hold it for 30sec with motor running it help's . As for it not going into gear sometime's just check that your gear change arm doesn't have to much free play . I move mine so that the foot change is abit lower so that when you up change it select's better as going down is not were you are under load hope this may help you out
SENSEI

Hey,
It could possibly have been raced before, Im not sure. I brought it from a guy who imported it in 2003. It has a different pipe on it, and under the seat its not plastic (Im assuming it normally is), its all nicely made folded aluminium plate, quite thick stuff. All of the under seat area is made of this stuff, a tray at the back under the pillion seat is a nice tray with sides, under the drivers seat is a plate on an angle down towards the tank, with the alarm and fuse box etc mounted on it, and then goes into the battery compartment, that has allen screws on each side to hold the battery in if desired. No idea if this is standard or not, but it looks mint. That was my reason for thinking it may have been raced.
Only done 35k.

Really weird - this may be my riding skills rather than anything else, my brother in law (slingshot) just rode it, and changing seemed fine, I hopped on, and it was crunching. We just went for a 2 hour ride, and I was trying the whole way to figure out how to change differently, but it always made a crunch from 1st to 2nd.
Really weird - I really cant understand it.
We did a bit of a test out in the wops, had 3 others on the side of the road, he was on the back with me, but it was backfiring lots between up shifting, you couldnt hear if it was crunching! I went on the back of him, was doing the same thing, but it didnt sound like it was crunching. I must just suck at up changing.
I made sure the clutch was all the way in, and I clicked it up hard all the way, still crunches... only a little crunch, but still a crunch none the less...
Im confused! :unsure:

[Sensei]

Have you tryed changing up with out the clutch from 2nd up ?? As I put in my post my need to check a few thing's on the bike may help .
SENSEI