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Thread: Putting the crankcase back on?

  1. #1
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    28th February 2007 - 12:31
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    eek Putting the crankcase back on?

    Right, took the crankcase off, no problems. Replace the gasket, all good.

    Now when I kick start it when the crankcase off, it kicks starts all good. Then things goes funny when put the crankcase on, insert a few screws and tighten it, then I attach the kick start pedal and try and kick start it, the pedal is drops down with no force. So there isn't any resistance, as if it the inner bits wasn't attached properly. As soon as I loosen the bolts, the resistance returns on the pedal, I take it off have a look if I have misaligned anything and it looks all good. And I go do up the crank case again, same thing happens, it doesn't have any feel, it just flops down.

    Wha am I doing wrong???

  2. #2
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    have a look at your post the answer is contained with in

    Stephen

    or you have screwed up the assembly
    "Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by HungusMaximist View Post
    Right, took the crankcase off, no problems. Replace the gasket, all good.

    Now when I kick start it when the crankcase off, it kicks starts all good. Then things goes funny when put the crankcase on, insert a few screws and tighten it, then I attach the kick start pedal and try and kick start it, the pedal is drops down with no force. So there isn't any resistance, as if it the inner bits wasn't attached properly. As soon as I loosen the bolts, the resistance returns on the pedal, I take it off have a look if I have misaligned anything and it looks all good. And I go do up the crank case again, same thing happens, it doesn't have any feel, it just flops down.

    Wha am I doing wrong???
    \


    What you are doing wrong is not taking it to someone who knows what they are doing if you dont have a manual and can follow it properly

    repent now,or pay big bucks to get it fixed later.
    "more than two strokes is masturbation"
    www.motoparts-online.com

  4. #4
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    Perhaps an answer or solution as opposed to some smart remark? It's a 5 hundy CT110 not a Ductati 1198 k? I suggest you google it as you guys seem pretty clueless on what I actually ride.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by HungusMaximist View Post
    Perhaps an answer or solution as opposed to some smart remark? It's a 5 hundy CT110 not a Ductati 1198 k? I suggest you google it as you guys seem pretty clueless on what I actually ride.
    Think about what is happening to the cases when you tighten them up

    Or

    leave well alone

    or pay me for twenty five odd years of experience

    or

    Learn like I did

    hint , most likely you have a spacer , washer or shim in the wrong position

    Stephen
    "Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."

  6. #6
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    ^ Great, that's the advice that I needed. I'll check it out.

  7. #7
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    Using the right terms helps, too. Crankcase is the bit that contains the crankshaft. Most unlikely the engine will run when the crankcase is off.

    just being a pedant, but, y'know.

    Does you local library have a service manual? Or can you down load one?

    Parts diagrams here might help http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-ct110-tra...374/partslist/
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    using the right terms helps, too. Crankcase is the bit that contains the crankshaft. Most unlikely the engine will run when the crankcase is off.

    Just being a pedant, but, y'know.

    Does you local library have a service manual? Or can you down load one?

    Parts diagrams here might help http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-ct110-tra...374/partslist/
    mate i'll have some spare time tomorrow after work.

    I think you mean clutch or side cover. Either way you shouldn't really be starting the bike with those off.
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  9. #9
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    Im sorry mate but that post is too freeking classic.
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete376403 View Post
    Using the right terms helps, too. Crankcase is the bit that contains the crankshaft. Most unlikely the engine will run when the crankcase is off.

    just being a pedant, but, y'know.

    Does you local library have a service manual? Or can you down load one?

    Parts diagrams here might help http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-ct110-tra...374/partslist/
    From the CT110 manual it says 'crankcase cover'

    Fullscreen capture 7022011 22346 p.m.

  11. #11
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    Ewen,

    A CT kick-start mechanism needs a good condition clutch to work.
    If the clutch is shot, or slipping badly, you will get a no-resistance effect as the kick-start lever can't crank the engine through the clutch.

    Check the assembly of the clutch cam plate, oil by-pass pipe, ball retainer / clutch lifter and the clutch lever that meshes with the cam plate.
    It is easy for these to get mis-aligned when you put the crankcase cover (yes, that is the correct term) back on.
    To help keep all these bits in the right place as you reattach the cover, lay the bike flat on its left side so that the cover can be lowered vertically - that way gravity can't misalign all the fiddly bits.

    If any of the clutch activation bits above are misaligned, as you tighten the cover screws the clutch will be disengaged and the kick-start lever will not operate.

    As the cover is lowered, it should fit flush all the way around where it meets the crankcase, if it does not, something is out of its correct position.
    You should screw the clutch adjuster in the crankcase cover right out before you reassemble.

    And ... ignore the smart-arse comments from the ignoramuses!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by platypus121 View Post
    Ewen,

    A CT kick-start mechanism needs a good condition clutch to work.
    If the clutch is shot, or slipping badly, you will get a no-resistance effect as the kick-start lever can't crank the engine through the clutch.

    Check the assembly of the clutch cam plate, oil by-pass pipe, ball retainer / clutch lifter and the clutch lever that meshes with the cam plate.
    It is easy for these to get mis-aligned when you put the crankcase cover (yes, that is the correct term) back on.
    To help keep all these bits in the right place as you reattach the cover, lay the bike flat on its left side so that the cover can be lowered vertically - that way gravity can't misalign all the fiddly bits.

    If any of the clutch activation bits above are misaligned, as you tighten the cover screws the clutch will be disengaged and the kick-start lever will not operate.

    As the cover is lowered, it should fit flush all the way around where it meets the crankcase, if it does not, something is out of its correct position.
    You should screw the clutch adjuster in the crankcase cover right out before you reassemble.

    And ... ignore the smart-arse comments from the ignoramuses!!
    Some of us get a bit weary of answering posts when the person hasn't done enough research ( 2 min on google for ct 110 )
    25 odd years as a mechanic , these types of posts get a bit weary

    No problem in helping some one if evidence of a damn good try , fail is evident , but not even having a manual at hand

    Stephen

    sorry not having a poke at original poster , but the type of post in general
    "Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by platypus121 View Post
    Ewen,

    A CT kick-start mechanism needs a good condition clutch to work.
    If the clutch is shot, or slipping badly, you will get a no-resistance effect as the kick-start lever can't crank the engine through the clutch.

    Check the assembly of the clutch cam plate, oil by-pass pipe, ball retainer / clutch lifter and the clutch lever that meshes with the cam plate.
    It is easy for these to get mis-aligned when you put the crankcase cover (yes, that is the correct term) back on.
    To help keep all these bits in the right place as you reattach the cover, lay the bike flat on its left side so that the cover can be lowered vertically - that way gravity can't misalign all the fiddly bits.

    If any of the clutch activation bits above are misaligned, as you tighten the cover screws the clutch will be disengaged and the kick-start lever will not operate.

    As the cover is lowered, it should fit flush all the way around where it meets the crankcase, if it does not, something is out of its correct position.
    You should screw the clutch adjuster in the crankcase cover right out before you reassemble.

    And ... ignore the smart-arse comments from the ignoramuses!!
    Thanks for that advice, I had trouble getting the crankcase on with all the bits on properly with the bike vertical. Great idea on lying the bike on it's side.

    Funny you mention the clutch slipping - when I poured new oil in, the gear shifting was really abrupt as in, it would engage too quick as soon as I touched the lever. So there wasn't an slight interval between me step on the gear lever and it gear switching into place. So that's another thing I need to look at.

    Thanks Bernard.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian d'marge View Post
    Some of us get a bit weary of answering posts when the person hasn't done enough research ( 2 min on google for ct 110 )
    25 odd years as a mechanic , these types of posts get a bit weary

    No problem in helping some one if evidence of a damn good try , fail is evident , but not even having a manual at hand

    Stephen

    sorry not having a poke at original poster , but the type of post in general
    I'm not a mechanic but I do have a manual.

    What's wrong in asking a question?

  15. #15
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    "... gear shifting was really abrupt as in, it would engage too quick as soon as I touched the lever. So there wasn't an slight interval between me step on the gear lever and it gear switching into place".

    If the clutch adjuster (in crankcase cover) was in too far, that would account for the change problem and possibly the kick-start problem as well.
    The manual gives the clutch setting method - be careful when you tighten the locknut as the adjuster screw can move with it and reduce clearance to zero giving you an instant crash gearbox!
    Use a ring spanner on the locknut while you hold the screw with a screw driver.

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