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Thread: GSX1100G - No power to ignition

  1. #16
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    26th December 2007 - 10:09
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    Cheers for the great response in here - I will have a bash at it today again-sadly its at a mates house so I have to run back and forth. I will try removing fuses and adding them back one by one to see if i can find it that way.Hopefully it is a wire rubbed through or something-how it hasnt melted is boggling my mind as well.
    Whether you think you can or cant - you will always be right.


  2. #17
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    Sounds like it could be related to the starter solenoid.
    Do you realise how many holes there could be if people would just take the time to take the dirt out of them?

  3. #18
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    26th December 2007 - 10:09
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    Thumbs down

    Today I charged the battery and took all the fuses out. Connected the battery and turned on ignition-battery read 13.8v. Put main fuse (25amp) in and power dropped immediately to around 5 v. Then I put the ignition fuse (10amp) in and the power dropped a wee more to 3.8v. The signal and light fuses made no difference. I think I will disconnect the alternator next and see if the problem goes away. I read this afternoon that an alternator can short out so I still haven't ruled it out. Here comes an offload of $$$$$ probably! Grrr!
    Whether you think you can or cant - you will always be right.


  4. #19
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    26th December 2007 - 10:09
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    Thanks for all your input- I need a new battery and I feel like a twat lol! After virtually stripping the bike-my mate chucked his battery from his gsx1400 and the fkn thing roared into life! So I guess a battery s life can come to a quick halt. Bloody things.
    Any suggestions where I can get a good battery for a good price-cheers.
    Whether you think you can or cant - you will always be right.


  5. #20
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    Supercheap. But bike batteries are a hell of a price compared to similar size car batteries.
    it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
    those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
    (PostalDave on ADVrider)

  6. #21
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    26th December 2007 - 10:09
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    Just priced up a Yuasa from Moto One - $130-sounds good to me.
    Whether you think you can or cant - you will always be right.


  7. #22
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    1st September 2007 - 21:01
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    Quote Originally Posted by theblacksmith View Post
    Just priced up a Yuasa from Moto One - $130-sounds good to me.
    No doubt you hearing it start ... would have sounded better ...
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  8. #23
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    14th January 2005 - 21:26
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    Quote Originally Posted by theblacksmith View Post
    Tried jump leads from a running car with the bike s battery and without the battery
    same result although I had lights and everything else goes but not enough power to start the bike. We noticed that the cars alternator was charging hard as soon as I turned bike ignition on-which means somethings obviously drawing current. It even slowed the cars engine rpm's down a little. So Im still puzzled. Im still suspect of the alternator.
    So what happened here? If you had the bike battery being replaced by the car's, everything should have worked fine if the bike battery was the only problem......

    Take 5 mins and check the rest of the system as per step 3 of this thread:
    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...shooting-steps

  9. #24
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    26th December 2007 - 10:09
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    The battery fried itself. Opened cover and was full of white corrosion with no acid. Cant believe it was showing 14 odd volts on the meter.
    A lot of searching and pondering for nothing.
    Whether you think you can or cant - you will always be right.


  10. #25
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    1st September 2007 - 21:01
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    Quote Originally Posted by allun View Post
    So what happened here? If you had the bike battery being replaced by the car's, everything should have worked fine if the bike battery was the only problem......

    Take 5 mins and check the rest of the system as per step 3 of this thread:
    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...shooting-steps
    The original battery would still have been in place/connected (a basic short right there) ... removing the (old) battery before jump starting may have told more ... sooner ..
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  11. #26
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    26th December 2007 - 10:09
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    Quote Originally Posted by allun View Post
    So what happened here? If you had the bike battery being replaced by the car's, everything should have worked fine if the bike battery was the only problem......

    Take 5 mins and check the rest of the system as per step 3 of this thread:
    http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...shooting-steps
    When we connected jump leads from car to bikes positive and negative main cables- everything powered up all good and it nearly started-there wasnt a good enough connection between jump leads to give starter full power obviously. When we put the batt from the gsx1400 everything worked fine and the battery was getting charged as well(showing 13.8v).
    Whether you think you can or cant - you will always be right.


  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by theblacksmith View Post
    The battery fried itself. Opened cover and was full of white corrosion with no acid. Cant believe it was showing 14 odd volts on the meter.
    A lot of searching and pondering for nothing.
    I would be interested in an expert (there are a few on here ) opinion on the effect (if any) on batterys with the new "lights on" policy/law now in effect ...
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

  13. #28
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    Just buy a bike older than 1980 and there isn't a problem .

  14. #29
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    14th January 2005 - 21:26
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    Well well - quite a few interesting things in this thread to ponder then!

    Quote Originally Posted by theblacksmith View Post
    The battery fried itself. Opened cover and was full of white corrosion with no acid. Cant believe it was showing 14 odd volts on the meter
    It takes but a few electrons moving to show the volts on the meter, doesn't mean there's capacity to drive a load there unfortunately! Interesting way to think about it- one of the small N size batteries you put in garage door and car alarm remotes will read 12V on your meter just as well as a vehicle battery - doesn't mean it will start your vehicle though!

    So when someone tries to test a vehicle battery by sticking a meter across it and proclaiming that the voltage is OK, you can see why that's a useless test now huh? :-)

    Load testing is the only way to externally tell a battery's capacity.

    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    The original battery would still have been in place/connected (a basic short right there) ... removing the (old) battery before jump starting may have told more ... sooner ..

    Quote Originally Posted by theblacksmith View Post
    Tried jump leads from a running car with the bike s battery and without the battery.....
    I read the wording above as he tested with and without the original bike battery in place - which i think is correct (theblacksmith?). It seems the issue was the jumper leads. Totally unambiguous wording is important in technical situations...


    Quote Originally Posted by FJRider View Post
    I would be interested in an expert (there are a few on here ) opinion on the effect (if any) on batterys with the new "lights on" policy/law now in effect ...
    Piss all effect for most. For the majority of people, the majority of the time, the bike's engine is providing energy to the lights. Your battery only powers the lights when the bike is idling or the engine not running.

    It might affect those who have bikes that will allow the headlights to be on without the ignition being on, because they could park up and leave the lights on.

  15. #30
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    24th September 2004 - 06:46
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    With a lot of stop start city riding it does have an effect. If you do putting the battery on a trickle charger overnight once a fortnight wont hurt. Obviously if you've got a lead acid battery you check the acid level. As a rule in general I get around 4-5 years out of mine.

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