Moving my pegs, will this be ok?

**nzspokes** · 25th March 2012, 15:22

Im looking at moving my pegs. Im finding on longer rides im getting a bit sore. So I want to move them down and back a bit. What im thinking of doing is making plates to go between the frame and the mount. Any reason this wont work? It will move the pegs out a bit as well but that dosent bother me. I will be putting race pegs on also.

**Pussy** · 25th March 2012, 15:27

You might find that there is a lot longer reach to the gear and brake pedals.

**nzspokes** · 25th March 2012, 15:34

Originally Posted by Pussy

You might find that there is a lot longer reach to the gear and brake pedals.

Both are mounted to the peg mounting plates so they stay in proportion to the pegs. There will be a bit of arsing about to make them work but nothing major.

**bogan** · 25th March 2012, 15:38

'jump plates' like you propose are pretty common, lot of rearset kits just come with a jump plate containing heaps of holes for adjustment; looks fugly imo. Make sure to use decent thickness plate (>10mm at a guess, but maybe add a mm for every pie per day) too, otherwise you will just flex them.

**nzspokes** · 25th March 2012, 15:49

Was thinking of making the plates the same thickness as the frame. But could use steel and go thinner.

**mossy1200** · 25th March 2012, 16:00

When i had a gs1200ss I found it to be cramped but I got my seat repacked and lifted 30mm instead of moving pegs.You may find that could be the best solution.It cost me $90.00 3 years ago to do it.

**bogan** · 25th March 2012, 16:06

Originally Posted by nzspokes

Was thinking of making the plates the same thickness as the frame. But could use steel and go thinner.

Yeh could do, give it a weight test anyway, you'll be able to see/feel the flex in it without putting yourself at risk.

Also, what do you mean by race pegs? fixed pegs?

**nzspokes** · 25th March 2012, 16:23

Originally Posted by bogan

Yeh could do, give it a weight test anyway, you'll be able to see/feel the flex in it without putting yourself at risk.

Also, what do you mean by race pegs? fixed pegs?

Just the little round alloy pegs.

Yeah will be making sure its strong.

**Pussy** · 25th March 2012, 16:44

Originally Posted by nzspokes

Both are mounted to the peg mounting plates so they stay in proportion to the pegs. There will be a bit of arsing about to make them work but nothing major.

In that case you will probably only need a slightly longer shift rod. More than likely left hand thread on one end too.

**nzspokes** · 25th March 2012, 16:49

Originally Posted by mossy1200

When i had a gs1200ss I found it to be cramped but I got my seat repacked and lifted 30mm instead of moving pegs.You may find that could be the best solution.It cost me $90.00 3 years ago to do it.

I had thought of that but I would rather do it this way. My thoughts are that it would put me more into the airstream and alter the COG.

**nzspokes** · 25th March 2012, 16:50

Originally Posted by Pussy

In that case you will probably only need a slightly longer shift rod. More than likely left hand thread on one end too.

Yeah had thought of that.

**mossy1200** · 25th March 2012, 17:03

Originally Posted by nzspokes

I had thought of that but I would rather do it this way. My thoughts are that it would put me more into the airstream and alter the COG.

Yeah the gs seat is very low indead and im 6.4 . I think that bike was desighned for riders 5.6 and under to be honest.
Just try not get the pegs so low they scrap alot.I fitted gsxr1000 race rearsets to 1989 Fzr1000 with no issues but i moved them up 40mm and back 30mm.The connecting rods where adjustable so no issues there.the only big one was moving the master brake cylinder for rear brake.

**nzspokes** · 25th March 2012, 17:06

Originally Posted by mossy1200

Yeah the gs seat is very low indead and im 6.4 . I think that bike was desighned for riders 5.6 and under to be honest.
Just try not get the pegs so low they scrap alot.I fitted gsxr1000 race rearsets to 1989 Fzr1000 with no issues but i moved them up 40mm and back 30mm.The connecting rods where adjustable so no issues there.the only big one was moving the master brake cylinder for rear brake.

On mine the M/cyl is mounted to the bracket also. I will have to space it inwards to clear the exhaust. It wont scrape as im a pussy.