Chopper project - I need some directions

[Terror]

Hi,


Not sure if this is the right forum...

So... picked up a project bike and need some directions / recommendations for a few things.

The bike I brought was listing # 535716656 on Trademe (check the expired auctions if your interested or hit this link http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=535716656 )

She needs a fair bit of work, some of which I am capable of doing, some not so much... So let me bullet out the guidance I need currently...

1.) I want to get the front forks chromed. What sort of prep would this require? Do divits in the metal matter or will the chroming process cover this up? Can anyone suggest a business in Auckland that can do a good job, at a fair price of course?

2.) This beast came with a seized Triumph 750? engine, i'm not sure if I want to use this engine as I prefer the look of V Twin type engines but I am considerate of the cost involved in buying another engine. So.. is there someone in Auckland / NZ that is a reputible Trumpy engine rebuilder, and ballpark (yes ballpark), what might I be looking at to do a full rebuild on a Trumpy engine? and what sorta cost to do it myself? Also, what might an engine in this state be worth on the second hand market?

3.) Can anyone recommend a good panel shop.. I'd like to get the frame acid dipped and etch primed, but i'd also like the "clean" welds tidyed up ect etc..

Thats about all I am looking for at the moment, probably a few months work in those jobs

Cheers!

Terror

[Coolz]

Preparation is the key to a good chrome job. Blemish's do show through. You can hand polish starting with a fine grade of wet and dry sand paper and soapy water. Then repeat with a finer grade; then repeat... ending up with Autosol and brown paper. Or you can take it to a metal polisher to do it for you.

Your choice of engine depends on what will fit. That front mount on the frame and the size of the engine bay looks to me like it was set up for a Triumph.

Good luck with the project, you're going to learn heaps.

[The Lone Rider]

I had a number of comments, but I've deleted all of them.


The only thing I will say is you need a working roller before you dick around with anything else.

Good luck.

[Terror]

Preparation is the key to a good chrome job. Blemish's do show through. You can hand polish starting with a fine grade of wet and dry sand paper and soapy water. Then repeat with a finer grade; then repeat... ending up with Autosol and brown paper. Or you can take it to a metal polisher to do it for you.

Your choice of engine depends on what will fit. That front mount on the frame and the size of the engine bay looks to me like it was set up for a Triumph.

Good luck with the project, you're going to learn heaps.

Yes, I am going to learn A LOT! Thanks for the input re polishing, sounds like I have my work cut out for me.... I used Bay Polishers in the past for a Rotary project I had, maybe I will see what they can do.

The frame does indeed seem like it was setup for the engine (I understand this machine was once running), would I be looking at a lot of work to convert to say an S&S? - is that even possible? I don't really know the dimensions of the V type engines? I guess at least it will require different mounts.

[Terror]

I had a number of comments, but I've deleted all of them.


The only thing I will say is you need a working roller before you dick around with anything else.

Good luck.

Yeah, I know the drill... I've had many a project that didnt get off the group because it literally wasnt moving. Very easy to loose interest with something that sits there.

[carburator]

this is where the waters get murky.. Low volume cert...

to fit a S&S you are wasting your time as the frame is not
build for that motor and gearbox.

someone has covered the chrome front end.

dressing of welds...

unless its a complete seagull shit weld that needs to be sorted
the biggest issue is pipe wall thickness, ive seen way to many dressed
to smooth, lay on a steel rule and they would be lucky to have any pipe left.

you got to ask yourself, its your ass going down the road are you willing to risk it..

Motor, sorry no idea thats a how long a piece of string is?

media blast the frame DO NOT ACID DIP! why because they never can neutralise
it, better to be blowing out grit for a few days.

Id die pentrate inspect the welds
give it all a good buff up with a wire brush, any welds im not happy with use a TIG
welder on and use the current weld as a filler and maybe a dab of SS to remove prosity

[Terror]

this is where the waters get murky.. Low volume cert...

to fit a S&S you are wasting your time as the frame is not
build for that motor and gearbox.

someone has covered the chrome front end.

dressing of welds...

unless its a complete seagull shit weld that needs to be sorted
the biggest issue is pipe wall thickness, ive seen way to many dressed
to smooth, lay on a steel rule and they would be lucky to have any pipe left.

you got to ask yourself, its your ass going down the road are you willing to risk it..

Motor, sorry no idea thats a how long a piece of string is?

media blast the frame DO NOT ACID DIP! why because they never can neutralise
it, better to be blowing out grit for a few days.

Id die pentrate inspect the welds
give it all a good buff up with a wire brush, any welds im not happy with use a TIG
welder on and use the current weld as a filler and maybe a dab of SS to remove prosity

Can you elaborate on what you mean by LVC?

If the frame isn't built for S&S what are my potential repower options? I'm almost thinking about rebuilding the engine myself, but who know's what will be found once it's cracked open. I've never tried to rebuild a siezed engine, but i'd guess I need to loosen the pistons somehow as the kickstart is pretty much rock solid, so it's probably fairly involved.. rings, head gasket, oversize the block etc

re: dressing of welds, it looks like someone learned to weld on it in places. I could do a better job stickwelding with my right hand tied behind my back and my eyes closed.. It actually looks as fi the rear subframe has been welded onto the main frame, lacquered in some shitty paint which i'd be willing to take a punt and say it's been brushed on..

Im not entirely sure I understand your description "to smooth, lay on a steel rule and they would be lucky to have any pipe left"

Media blast it you think, shot blast or sand blast?

Cheers, getting lots of great help here! Sorry if i'm seeming like needing spoonfeeding!

[The Lone Rider]

Can you elaborate on what you mean by LVC? !

That means compliance from start of the build, to the end of the build, for it to be road legal. Everything you build and modify needs to be inspected, logged, and approved to get final road certification. If you started with an already built bike, and modified it then it would be a different process and some of the changes you wouldnt need inspected.

More so if you're going to chop the frame to fit an S&S, Ultima, or other air cooled American Vtwin; which you will likely need to do as I think they will be noticeably taller than the British engine.

[BIG DOUG]

that is a triumph frame,I would rebuild the mtr and it should be fun,but there is no way you are going to get a v-twin in there

[FJRider]

If the frame isn't built for S&S what are my potential repower options?

On the Trademe add it said "Custom Rolling Chassis" ... not "Professionally Built Rolling Chassis". You mentioned the Birdshit welding that needs a tidy. Doesn't sound that professional to me. And unless the welding has been certified (Welding done by a certified welder) ... they will just point you to the door ... laughing as they kick your ass out of the testing station.

ANY cutting of ANY part of the chassis will require RE-certifying ... as will ANY further welds.

Don't spend (read WASTE) money on fancy bits or paint UNTILL it is certified for use on the road. THEN strip and rebuild ... with the fancy bits.

But it IS your money ...

Im not entirely sure I understand your description "to smooth, lay on a steel rule and they would be lucky to have any pipe left"

Cheers, getting lots of great help here! Sorry if i'm seeming like needing spoonfeeding!

Find out what the pipe sizes/specs were before it was fashioned into that.

Remove ANY steel from ANY welds and you effectively weaken the weld joints. (they don't like that)

Talk to a testing station BEFORE you do ANYTHING ... see what THEY require YOU to do ... step by step.

[Brian d marge]

LVC has been posted here before and from memory in chch the hotrod club was the best for info there is even a book they publish
When I did resto work once or twice , I left the welds so that they could be inspected by the same guy, then I would paint.
Triumph engines while being simple need a little knowledge to build. I've seen many slapped together, and they will run .....but
Chrome on forks , as has been said prep is important and the blemishes will show , some people can weaken the part by to much polishing
Get the parts you need
Incl engine ( so just get it running)
Get a rolling chassis
Iron out bugs
Now spend money ....on bling

Just a thought , if you can , see if the frame has been rego before and you might try to get out of the lvc , worth a try
Though if you have the engineer on your side , its piece of mind that everything is safe


I'm just starting a new project myself , just finished the frame jig........

Stephen

[imdying]

I had a number of comments, but I've deleted all of them.


The only thing I will say is you need a working roller before you dick around with anything else.

Good luck.

I'm with stupid. You're so far away from worrying about chrome it's not funny! Definitely heed the advice about doing your cert the entire way through, and the bit about not raping the welds with a grinder just so they look pretty!

Stick a busa motor in it!

[HenryDorsetCase]

Consider picking up a Hinckley Triumph Twin. (i.e. a new one not an old one). Sure the engine is heavier than the original but it has modern architecture, electronic ignition, and no oil leaks. Plus they can look the part. I've seen crashed new Bonnies going for ~$3k on tardme and you get a bike that might have other bits you can use or deal off. food for thought?

[Road kill]

Consider picking up a Hinckley Triumph Twin. (i.e. a new one not an old one). Sure the engine is heavier than the original but it has modern architecture, electronic ignition, and no oil leaks. Plus they can look the part. I've seen crashed new Bonnies going for ~$3k on tardme and you get a bike that might have other bits you can use or deal off. food for thought?

That frame wouldn't handle a new Bonnie engine for long before the cracks started to appear.

[HenryDorsetCase]

That frame wouldn't handle a new Bonnie engine for long before the cracks started to appear.

looking at it, I agree. Plus the first thing to do is shorten that front end by about four feet. All the cool kids are building bobbers or trackers these days. Gas axe off the headstock, point it at a sensible angle, even keep the girder, just more than halve the length of the forks.

But its a big project....