HiAce auto choke problem (Petrol NZ '95 2RZ engine carb not EFI)

[F5 Dave]

. . .
Here's the autochoke. Flap seems to move easily without binding (within its freeplay) . . . .

well that answers that bit

[F5 Dave]

good grief, a new one for $200. just chances of it being the same, jetting being right & trying to fit it give me nightmares.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-replacem...3268c9&vxp=mtr

[Paul in NZ]

Would you trust an asian guy that cant spell asian?

[F5 Dave]

yeah I did worry about that.

Its getting harder to drive in the cold.

That other doofer with the wire I'm told will be bimetalic control for the choke & those tiny pipes may have water in them. perhaps that is where Motu was suggesting to blow air through?

[Paul in NZ]

yeah I did worry about that.

Its getting harder to drive in the cold.

That other doofer with the wire I'm told will be bimetalic control for the choke & those tiny pipes may have water in them. perhaps that is where Motu was suggesting to blow air through?

Always good to blow a bit of air through a tube..... except if its oil, brakes or radiator.....

[F5 Dave]

or perhaps the vacuum hose, which is what I'm concerned about. Maybe I'll unplug a few & see if water pops out.

[unstuck]

Had one of those vans sitting outside my place too up until a couple of weeks ago. We couldnt find any parts for it down this way so he sold it to the scrap man. Mind you the shearers who had it for the last ten years had given it a pretty rough time. I cant remember wether those carbs had water housings or not, I would suggest cleaning them out though as ealier suggested by motu. But sometimes you have to take the carb off anyway to get at them properly. You could try getting another bi-mettalic spring and see if that works. If it was mine I would just put a cable in and be done with it, But then Im not very patient.

[unstuck]

Is it this carb, cos there is no water housings on these ones, choke is operated by the Bi spring heating up.

[F5 Dave]

Well it kinda looks like that, idle speed adjuster is different. Did you look at the ebay one? more like that, but I wouldn't put a couple of hundy down as a bet.

So do we think that just having the flap closed is all that will happen when cold?

[F5 Dave]

well interesting development, I just thought I'd have a looksee at the choke flap before setting off home from work in 1/2 hr. Engine still a little warm from drive at lunchtime 3& bit hrs ago. Was revving a bit high when I got back.

Flap fully open. ok so autochoke flap not causing high revving seemingly. but perhaps flap should be closing off by now. I pushed it back a bit to see what it started like as its cold here so will know when I leave for home.

[scumdog]

OK, thread hi-jack - who can tell me how to adjust the carb on Norma Jeanes (the mrs) car so that it does not 'come off' to early?
Fires up good when cold (revs at about 2,000rpm though) but after two-three minutes the choke comes off - particularly if the throttle is pushed at all - and then while it will idle - it dies as soon as it is pulled into gear.
Starts up straight away after it dies and idles ok (mostly).
After 5-6 minutes all is good, car is a good runner and a comfy cruiser..

If you can get it moving all is good. (You can get it moving while it is still revving from choke working when first fired up, a few minutes later a different story)




The car is a 1983 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Brougham Holiday Coupe (Yes, really!) with a pushrod 3-litre V6 with two-barrel carb (FULLY rebuilt in the US last year) - A lot of the motor control is through a computer - i.e some of the choke control I suspect!!

Anybody got some advice on sorting the choke??

[unstuck]

Sounds to me like an linkage issue for the fast idle?? If it was a computer glitch, would there not be an engine check light on?

[F5 Dave]

Well there's something odd. I had a quick play today. Those metal hosepipes don't have any water in them. When it was cold this morn I pulled the cover &found the choke open. Poo. But when I started it up it closed. I cleaned up the connector in the loom

[unstuck]

Those bi-metalic springs do lose their tensile strength after awhile. Maybe time for a new spring, but probably easier to hook a cable up.

[ducatilover]

Have you topped the coolant up with the front of the van raised? (still on dial up speed, so I'm assuming the pipes are higher than the rad filler?)
Are all the linkages spotless, clean springs and lubed?