Show us your lathe?

[Imagineering]

I picked up a 1972 USSR lathe, big ol beast. All in metric, 3 phase. Haven't measured between centres but I'd define it as "heaps bro".

Looks like something they made the Russian Tanks with for WW2.
What does She weigh in at?

.

[328FTW]

Looks like something they made the Russian Tanks with for WW2.
What does She weigh in at?

.

Not a damn clue what it weighs, I guess around 2 tonne from the forklift groan I was getting.

Tell you what though, I got it out of the guy's garage using a pair of load skates and a set of old round wooden banister blanks and just rolling it out with the help of friends on some 1970's looking DIY concrete. Don't think I've ever had a more complete workout. Even when I got my hand winch of the trailer hooked on I had to drag it up the incline of the tip trailer on the load skates; I was a little sore for the next few days.

[TLDV8]

I wonder if the cross slide on that USSR lathe takes off what you put on.

[Yow Ling]

I picked up a 1972 USSR lathe, big ol beast. All in metric, 3 phase. Haven't measured between centres but I'd define it as "heaps bro". Removable bed section, picked it up for $700 not working and spent about a day cleaning rust and setting up the wiring for it to not be a birdsnest of fire then clacked it into gear and works like a charm. A mechanical engineer owned it for quite some time so it's not abused aside from sitting in a shed for years unused, the bed hasn't been smashed into the spinning bits a heap of times like some of the lathes I've used in shops that train people.

Attachment 304677
Attachment 304676



Haven't got a pic of it all cleaned up but it's all shined up now with no rust. I've used it just about every weekend since I bought it a few months ago, machining bushings and small projects mostly. But I'll need to run a few threads and stuff on it soon so I'll have to figure out what I'm doing with feed speeds. I've been using the compound head to do some tricky taper jobs though and it made an immaculate job of machining from my engineering drawings, I even met the specs for surface finish straight from the carbide bit no sanding or fine cut required; stoked as.

Nice score, is it a Stankoimport or a Stroj ?. Should be able eat some bar with that east european machinery like that is bullet proof, and metric.

[Ocean1]

Nice score, is it a Stankoimport or a Stroj ?. Should be able eat some bar with that east european machinery like that is bullet proof, and metric.

Stankoimport was just an importer, for that machine and ones like it.

They were all solid beasts, as you say more than capable of pealing off a decent cut. If that one's seen just a few decades of moderate abuse then with a bit practice it's still good for pretty fine stuff too.

A HSS machine, to be sure, so it's good to have a few clues about grinding them up.

[Yow Ling]

I Have a couple of lathes, just didnt have the heart to get rid of the little one when i got the German one


Smart and Brown Toolroom lathe



Meuser


Both 3 phase, Meuser is metric and imperial threading maybe 7.5hp, a pleasure to use

[TLDV8]

did yer get the power feed kit ?... wish I had....one day..

I had to shim the column forward & aft on the two rear bolts to get
the quill 90* with the table...

I clocked the table thinking surely not, must be a one off, I will need to do the same, off the same as you posted.

I ended up getting the eBay power feed unit.
All good except when the body of the unit is hard up against the table bearing block and the drive gears lined up the dogs do not engage those on the table.
I made an adapter and since the screw had a M8 thread in the end already made a stepped cap.

[pete-blen]

I clocked the table thinking surely not, must be a one off, I will need to do the same, off the same as you posted.

I ended up getting the eBay power feed unit.
All good except when the body of the unit is hard up against the table bearing block and the drive gears lined up the dogs do not engage those on the table.
I made an adapter and since the screw had a M8 thread in the end already made a stepped cap.

since my last post..I have been looking at some power feed units on Aliexpress...
good prises..... but as always with chinese stuff at cheap prises...????????

Maybe I need to get the lathe & mill down to ChCh first...

[bogan]

Been having much fun in the shed last few weeks, looking to fab up a 4th axis for my cnc mill, am thinking of going with an ER40 collet chuck as low profile is key and it will likely on get used for a few standard sized bars anyway. What does the brain trust reckon? worth doing or does a traditional chuck have other benefits? Also, erring towards toothed belts for the 'gearbox' unless anyone has suggestions of other very low play drive systems that are cheap?

[pete-blen]

By traditional chuck.... do you mean the drill press / jacobs style chuck ?..
If so they are not designed for high side load like a collet
chuck.... any vibration of the cutter can cause them to come lose
go with the collet chuck..

[Akzle]

Been having much fun in the shed last few weeks, looking to fab up a 4th axis for my cnc mill, am thinking of going with an ER40 collet chuck as low profile is key and it will likely on get used for a few standard sized bars anyway. What does the brain trust reckon? worth doing or does a traditional chuck have other benefits? Also, erring towards toothed belts for the 'gearbox' unless anyone has suggestions of other very low play drive systems that are cheap?

if by "gearbox" you mean "stack of pulleys" then yes. if you are actually referring to gears in a box, then sprocket that fucker up. with triplex.
and. what are you driving it off.

collets hold tools. not work. IMO. unless it's some cold rolled surface ground shit.

[bogan]

By traditional chuck.... do you mean the drill press / jacobs style chuck ?..
If so they are not designed for high side load like a collet
chuck.... any vibration of the cutter can cause them to come lose
go with the collet chuck..

Nah I mean like a tiny 3jaw lathe one vs a collet chuck. Jacobs style wouldn't have the bore (in addition to sideways loading issues as you point out).

[328FTW]

Nice score, is it a Stankoimport or a Stroj ?. Should be able eat some bar with that east european machinery like that is bullet proof, and metric.

Stankoimport was just an importer, for that machine and ones like it.

They were all solid beasts, as you say more than capable of pealing off a decent cut. If that one's seen just a few decades of moderate abuse then with a bit practice it's still good for pretty fine stuff too.

A HSS machine, to be sure, so it's good to have a few clues about grinding them up.

It does have Stankoimport stamped on the side, if you google STANKO 1A616 that seems to be it, made from early 60's onwards. The only issue I've hit thus far is from sitting the stamped plate with all the gear speeds and tricky little notes for engagements has lost all the paint and rusted a bit. Hence I can't really tell what RPM and speed the feed is set to other than "this feels right" but that's fine for straight turning/boring operations. The plate is raised letters though so I might drill the rivets out, spraypaint it matt black then take a fine planer sander to it to bring up all the numbers again so they can be read properly.

[Imagineering]

Also, erring towards toothed belts for the 'gearbox' unless anyone has suggestions of other very low play drive systems that are cheap?

If you want repeatability and no Backlash you must use a Toothed Belt, specifically the AT5 Series.
The AT5 Series has a specific Tooth Profile and is designed to have no Backlash when reversing the Spindle. I built a 4th Axis for my SIEG SX3 CNC Mill and used a standard Gates type Belt which proved to have too much Backlash.
Apparently the Standard Belts are designed for one-way rotation in Belted Systems, such as Cam Shafts, and the Tooth Profile is designed as such. The AT5 Series Profile does not allow the Tooth Gullet to touch the top of the Belt, so that when correctly tensioned the only parts of the Belt touching the Pulley are the Drive Faces.
With the AT5 Belts and Pulleys coupled with a Stepper Motor and 15/60 Reduction I can now Machine Herringbone Gears with Zero play in them.
I bought my AT5 Pulleys & Belts from John Brookes in Wellington. They are an indent Part from Aus and will cost around $NZ190.00

[bogan]

If you want repeatability and no Backlash you must use a Toothed Belt, specifically the AT5 Series.
The AT5 Series has a specific Tooth Profile and is designed to have no Backlash when reversing the Spindle. I built a 4th Axis for my SIEG SX3 CNC Mill and used a standard Gates type Belt which proved to have too much Backlash.
Apparently the Standard Belts are designed for one-way rotation in Belted Systems, such as Cam Shafts, and the Tooth Profile is designed as such. The AT5 Series Profile does not allow the Tooth Gullet to touch the top of the Belt, so that when correctly tensioned the only parts of the Belt touching the Pulley are the Drive Faces.
With the AT5 Belts and Pulleys coupled with a Stepper Motor and 15/60 Reduction I can now Machine Herringbone Gears with Zero play in them.
I bought my AT5 Pulleys & Belts from John Brookes in Wellington. They are an indent Part from Aus and will cost around $NZ190.00

Do the AT5 guys pay you a commision?

Cheers for the advice though, I have some 5M HTD belts and a few pulleys lying about because the pulleys are easy to machine on a CNC; a quick google suggests HTD 5m might essentially just be an upgraded AT5 anyway. So I'm happy.
Can't recall what pulleys I have but will try and maximize size on the spindle to minimise play as well.