It's a lot of nothing and than a lot of everything.Originally Posted by p.dath
Meow
It's a lot of nothing and than a lot of everything.
What's the point in living if you don't feel alive?
Toying with ones mortality shouldn't be this much fun.
The Majestic Metal Wizard
^^^ as P.Dath said
if you changed pads or replaced a cylinder - so long as you bled them properly, they will be fine.
Physics; Thou art a cruel, heartless Bitch-of-a-Mistress
Meow
It could just be getting used to brakes that have a bit more bite than usual. Anyway my clutch needs some serious adjustments.
What's the point in living if you don't feel alive?
Toying with ones mortality shouldn't be this much fun.
Moped rider
Adjusting clutch shouldn't be that difficult. And how long are you guys usually out for?
Meow
If that's hinting at helping I'll be at the catpark around 1915
What's the point in living if you don't feel alive?
Toying with ones mortality shouldn't be this much fun.
Moped rider
Would love to help but I'm waiting at wellington airport to fly back to Auckland. If no one can help you out I'm willing to meet tomorrow? Want to do a little ride to see if my baby is well
Nana
Did you bed them in?
This can be a symptom (IME) of either pads that are not bedded in or fluid that needs Settling / Bleeding. Sometimes thought it is just a case of you have changed the type of pad. E.g Going from sintered to unsintered or vice versa freaks some riders out with how different they feel cold.
**Before you attempt the below: make sure you have plenty of road of other closed surface and you are confident emergency stopping your bike, also before initiating the hard braking parts make sure you know how much space you have behind you. Other wise you may want to ask a more experienced rider to do this for you.**
Bedding in = getting the pads hotter than they are likely to get in general operation to burn off the compounds that are on them to stop them from degrading and sweating on the shelf.
This is done by getting up to 30km and slow rapidly to 10km ( don't stop, you are trying to get the pads hot, stopping completely makes the rotors get hotter than the pads do, something about tranferring all the heat to the more conductive metal, this has been known to warp disks by about the 10th pass ) as soon as you reach 10km release the brake and accelerate up to 40km and brake rapidly to 10km.
Repeat for 50-10 and 60-10.
Repeat for 60-10 but being a bit more aggresive with the brakes until you feel either the wheel is on the verge of slipping or until you feel the brakes fade off, without slacking off there is less braking available.
If you still have no brake fade try 70-10 or even 80-10 if you have the confidence.
By now your brakes should smell like an oven that is on but with nothing in it.
You may even have a tink tink sound coming from your disks if you come to a complete halt or even visible smoke.
The hotter you get your brakes the more effective they will be able to be in a real emergency... although afterwards and before you need to pull up in an emergency you may need to clean the detritus from the air holes cross drilled in your rotors (on most modern or twin disk setups) for this I use "brake clean" and an alan key the same size as the holes.
If your pads are not bedded in they will be significantly less effective, especially in the wet and may cause your rotors or pads to glaze or get covered in a glossy coat that is very slippery when wet.
Other possiblity wether bedded or not is that you need to either bleed or compress your brakes.
I'd start with compressing if they have already been bedded. Tie your brake lever as tightly to your bar as you can and leave over night. If still a problem you may need to either bleed your brakes or change your fluid. A good idea if your bike stands for longer than 6 months, the fluid is over 2 years old. Doesnt cost much but the fluid itself is quite hydroscopic and becomes less efficient over time.
Your brakes should feel like squeezing a handball or other air filled ball. Resistance and action (amount of force applied at the other end) should be relatively consisent and follow a linear scale of resistence (almost straight line steady increase) Effect should be steady increase curve.
Some dual disks can have a "second bite" this is usually an air pocket in the link hose only course of action is to bleed your hoses.
Meow
Umm all I did was bleed them...
Me thinks wet weather is not the best time to be testing brakes...
Is anyone still going tonight? Yes I have turned into a fair weather fairy.
What's the point in living if you don't feel alive?
Toying with ones mortality shouldn't be this much fun.
Moped rider
If all you did was bleed them. Then your brakes are probably working properly now and you'll get used to it. I've ridden some bikes which felt more like on or of switches when you're not used to them.
Rider in training
I'm with jeeron, the fluid was probably well overdue.
The only thing going through my mind is if the master cylinder is overfilled. Juniper; when you replaced the fluid does it shows as just being up to the fill line in the brake fluid tank? It isn't way overfull is it?
Meow
Cheers for the advice!! We shall see how it feels after a bit more pootling around. If not shes booked in for a carb balance on Wednesday.
I'm out at a MAG parkup tonight sorry.
What's the point in living if you don't feel alive?
Toying with ones mortality shouldn't be this much fun.
Moped rider
Good luck and have fun
Rider in training
I think we'll make tomorrows event the last one for the year. The next Wednesday after that is the 24th ...
The Majestic Metal Wizard
I'll be there
Physics; Thou art a cruel, heartless Bitch-of-a-Mistress
Highway Biker
I will not be there.
Did you get your full?
Cras ingens iterabimus aequor.
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