Not different reflector and lens but the point of light in a HID bulb will not be in the same place as the filiment in a conventional bulb so the lights will need adjusting. Most of them are very good now and aren't far out. Some shit ones are way out and affect the light pattern.
I haven't seen any dual contact HID's for H4. Some use a servo mounted backing plate to tilt the who bulb up and down. Not a great fix in the units I have seen as it locates the light source in the wrong place causing the issue above and the light isn't cut off correctly as it would be in an H4 with the metal plate between the filiments. The better system for H4 equipped bikes (I know yours isn't but the question is there) is the ones that have a very small metal plate (half a cylinder that is around the bulb) that rotates from the top to the bottom of the bulb as you switch hi/low beams. The actual bulb stays on all the time so no delay. I have never seen a kit in the flesh that has no delay on startup. They need thousands of volts to create the initial spark and that takes some time to charge up in the capacitor on a 12v bike.
I would always make a new loom. Your pulling the bike apart enough to mount everything nicely and spending hundreds on the kit. Another $20 and 30 mins will be well spent. These things want at least 12v all the time, not 8 -9 or whatever your bike gives, bike wiring is not a priority from what I have seen!
The cut off is still the same so yes and no. It would mean that you need to adjust your lights for sure once you fit the HID cos your whole setup is low and your using the high to compensate for a shitty low beam. A trip to a dark long road to setup will be on your list eh!
Good on ya, these lights will make the world of difference. I think the colour difference makes people look twice too and makes you stick out from the cars.
Bookmarks