Looking good mate!
What a cool pair of projects.
Looking good mate!
What a cool pair of projects.
"I came into this game for the action, the excitement... go anywhere, travel light,... get in, get out,... wherever there's trouble, a man alone... Now they got the whole country sectioned off; you can't make a move without a form."
Paved roads are just another example of wasted tax payer dollars.
Aahhh, brings back memories, the very first bike I ever owned was a road legal one of these.
Haha small world. Bummer the bits dont fit!
You wouldnt believe it, but my TT doesnt have the plastics on it...!! I could have sworn it did, but obviously my memory is fading..
Sorry dude!
Ill say. Would hate to imagine what theyd be worth on trademe! Probably worth making a mould and popping one out every couple days, nice bit of pocket money!
Hey could you please do me a favour, and have a look at this, from what your video showed, your a little more experienced than myself!
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...ad.php?t=62635
bead blasting process parameters can actually be manipulated to achieve quite shiny satin finish
however, if you want to paint it anyway, this doesn't matter - you got a good clean surfaces for the paint to stick well
have you considered powdercoating? - should give a fantastic result on such well prepared surface
good luck with your project, looking very cool![]()
I was hoping for a satin kind of finish but this is more like raw aluminium. I will have to either polish it or paint it. The powder coating idea sounds like a goody but the last lot of bits I had done cost me $250 for the swingarm, trees and a few engine clamps so I imagine the cases would be more than that. I think I will paint it black with engine enamel, maybe do the barrel a different colour.
have a look here for powdercoating prices:
http://www.hpcoatings.co.nz/prices1.htm
my engine is clearcoated and although it was done within only a few days from when it was bead blasted it shows signs of oxidation underneath the coat- i guess this is not too good for the longevity of the paint - so my suggestion is to use a treatment for any already formed oxide on the surface just prior to painting, especially if you're intending to use only the rattle-can engine enamel
i was told the appropriate way to paint an engine is to use the etch-primer, two coats of paint and two-pot clearcoat on top - but that gives a finish that's too thick (imho)
Here's the latest update - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRJKBayopXE
great video's man! i wish i could make it look that easy
(hehe, i bet you cut out all the "where did i put the pliers? why don't i have and metric bolts? why won't this fit? who the hell designed this and what were they thinking? oh shit i broke it!" and the classic "oh fuckit i put the piston in the wrong way around! why do i have a washer left over?" moments)
Yeah there were a few out takes like when I put the barrel and head on then realised I forgot the other cam tensioner. I had two goes at assembling the rear mono shock in the second video and had a dry run of some bits so that it would look more professional and smooth in the real run. I also cut out the bits where I was reading the manual! All up it took me about 6 hours to assemble the engine which I'm guessing is pretty slow compared to the pros, but the next one I do should be 2-3 hours all up. It's good fun anyway.
Bloody good effort bud, gonna be a nice bike when its done!!![]()
Well here's the next episode - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k16syr6W3z0
You're probably thinking I don't sleep but in fact a lot of this video was shot before the previous part but I've only just got around to putting the brakes back together - I was waiting for new shoes from the states.
I've also put a still picture below for those too cheap to get broadband - I don't know how you can live without it, I'll be running a cable it to the shed next time I'm in the mood for wiring at home (which is like never).
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