Gee, a whole 1/20th throttle now?![]()
Gee, a whole 1/20th throttle now?![]()
seriously man thta jade is nice to ride lol...
" yah trick yah "
gear them down and they get more perky with higher revs at lower speeds meaning moar power/torque with a lower top speed
gear them up and they get more lazy, lower revs at high speed - but on a small motor you might not have enough torque to either get to the higher top speed, will lose your already low acceleration, and may have to hold the throttle wide open to maintain 100kph in top gear, or use a lower gear to have higher revs in order to maintain that speed
for max fuel economy at a given speed you want to have the throttle closed or almost closed at whatever engine speed, with lower engine speed making economy better still. eg, idle throttle at 3/4 revs is better than full throttle on idle revs (there will be a balance point/optimum setting, which will probably be what stock gearing achieves)
for more fun/accessible power we gear down so the max speed we intend to reach is the fastest the motor/gearing allows. lotsa close gear changes. dirtbikes are generally set up like this, and are aided by their high torque and wide power band single cylinder motors.
performance seems to require a close ratio gearbox, ie all gears close together, with first gear relatively long so the power band begins a the lowest speed we intend to do. eg NC30 carries first gear hits power from 60 through to 110kph, and 6th tops out around 210kph. this is where a vtwin / vfour hs an advantage over the inline4 / stroke, in that the power band may cover over half the rev range rather than the last quarter or less. ie the NC30 2nd gear hits power at 80kph, leaving a 20kph overlap bewteen that and second, whereas a 2stroke may only have 5kph of overlap - this allows the rider a lot more choice in gears, with more room for error and less time wasted changing gear (and then fucking it up)
obviously having a bigger motor/moar torques/moar power/wider band gives a bit more choice/freedom in gearing, as the gears must always overlap slightly and ensure there isn't a major power gap between gears - eg 2 strokes must be in the right gear for a given speed to have power due to narrow band with little overlap between gears - middle of 3rd is not bottom of 4th
manufacturers have to find the balance between comfort, economy, emissions and performance (and then specify the sort of performance). as such, they will never get it 100% right 100% of the time, but will be pretty bloody close. a good example of this is the first YZf and WR bieks from yamaha - the only difference was the WR had road kit and electric start, and then taller gears. slightly de-tuned engine too. infact, the only mechanical diffence between many sprotsbikes and their touring/naked equivalent is mostly just a slightly detuned motor for more accessible power and different gearing. eg yzfr1 -> fazer , cbr1000rrrrrr -> cb1000r etc etc
based on experience and uni work on the matter - corrections welcome
and yes, writing that out twice cause KB went down for 5 minutes was way better than studying for my thermofluids exam
LOL will have a look at that wrecker in north shore then
I am adding tooth up on front aren't I?
Hmm but it IS very common custom for Volty(exactly same as GN. Same gearing, same HP, same torque) in Japan. And seems like it is satisfys most user over there even tho they require more accerelation and less top speed than NZ roads...(I think I said this in GN thread as well)
Will? Man you shoulds have told me earlier XD
Ok next time!
Has brake fluid opend?
Super Sports Commuter=Super Cub90!!
Land Speed Record holder of stock engine GN250 in NZ 140km/h
Join The mighty GN250
Ah I think Twinkle have one tooth up in front and he can ride faster than most of us!!!!!![]()
Super Sports Commuter=Super Cub90!!
Land Speed Record holder of stock engine GN250 in NZ 140km/h
Join The mighty GN250
Yui -- if I make it to the fireworks (we'll see, I have an exam at 2pm, should probably go to bed soon), I'll bring some brake fluid. I have two containers, a big one, which I opened a long time ago (brake fluid goes off after it's been opened, absorbs moisture and heats up too quickly), which I just use for cleaning brake system parts. When I actually want to use brake fluid in the braking system, I buy a tiny container and use it all in one go.
I just bought a small container recently, only used a little bit. This was about a week ago, hardly got exposed to air at all, so it's probably better than some ancient bottle.
Anyway that was a lot of crap I wrote about nothing when I should be reading about SOAP and CORBA @_@
Super Sports Commuter=Super Cub90!!
Land Speed Record holder of stock engine GN250 in NZ 140km/h
Join The mighty GN250
I think what you really need is MOAR POWER!
Didn't you find the ride the other day a comfy cruise easily at ~110kph? Well that's all ya need
Oh, and just get a diff bike rather than trying to wring out your current one!
Super Sports Commuter=Super Cub90!!
Land Speed Record holder of stock engine GN250 in NZ 140km/h
Join The mighty GN250
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