i've heard that a few times yet have never heard any sort of explaination
imho it shouldn't make much difference - it's just metal polishing metal, ideally without excessive heat/wear
roadbikes should last atleast 50,000km without the rings giving in, whereas dirtbikes are meant to last a weekend or two (if you beleive what the manual says)
With the mark in the cylinder, one would assume that it wouldn't be doing anything keeping it at constant rev's anymore than it would 10,000k down the road
reword please?
how does not varying the load wear a mark? it's a piston goign up and down over the same range reguardless of speed (give or take the 0.001mm stretch/squish in the conrod)
higher load (ie higher torque requirements) just means higher pressures in the chamber which means higher pressures on teh rings pushing against the cylinder (along with every other loaded bearing/gear through to the wheel). aslong as we minimise this until everything has mates properly what does it matter?
perhaps it's jsut to get us to use all the gears to ensure that they all have done the most part of their wear and run in properly before the 2nd oil change (again not loading the engine will mean less forces on the gears)
yeah, my post makes very little sense lol.
what I meant is that the 'don't keep it at constant revs' shouldn't truly matter much in terms of the engine, for the forces being placed against the cylinder, and indeed all the forces in the engine should not be that significantly varying over time (as in, over the km's that you travel), and as such the materials that it is constructed out of should not be experiencing any different stress/strain than they would be 10,000km down the road. And if the metal is finished off properly, the amount of stress/strain it can take won't change significantly either.
Though it could be for some other part of the bike that they don't want it at constant revs.
Theres a lot of confusion because different parts of the engine need different ways to run in. Piston rings need a high engine loads to bed in properly and avoid glazing poor compression and oil burning, rotating surfaces need to polish each other and undergo a few heat cycles before things loosen up a little. Gears and shifters need to wear together. You´ll notice yourself some difference in the way the engine picks up once its run in.
The only thing thats definately bad for a new engine or any engine is raping from cold, sitting in traffic, lugging, excessive idling in the driveway. Common sense says mix it up and don´t be scared to give it a quick squirt every now and then.
I love the smell of twin V16's in the morning..
ah thanks for clearing it up, its don't idle so it puts varying pressure so that other stuff has more pressure on it rather than that the low pressure damages it
just thrash it
jst another noob question... wats lyk the hottest temp your engine shud get before its not good?
Run the bike in as you want to ride it... just no full noise shit or laboring it... up and down the revs and gears is good
and warm it up first before doing anything....
find a good long twisty section of the road and go for it![]()
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks