KLR riders out there

[dino3310]

I use 91, used to use 95 but it was horrible, switched to 91 and it pulls so much better off idle, and stalls less, easier to ride slow etc.

Mind you since putting the 685 kit in and the compression ratio rising a bit i might give 98 a go next tankful.

Hows that 685 kit going Woodman... any issues

[Woodman]

Hows that 685 kit going Woodman... any issues

Real good, no issues whatsoever and doesn't use oil thank fcuk, so anyone riding behind me on the next db1k won't get oil splatters all over them.:facepalm::angry:

The 685 kit really changes the power characteristics. Pulls like a schoolboy and is a lot smoother too. Still no powerhouse but the power is just so flat, its like a tractor. There are cams available and rejetting etc but I can't see the point with the chassis limitations and apparently the fuel economy goes all to hell.

[dino3310]

Cool mate sounds good, now all you got to do is load it right up and tour the north Island:drinkup:

[NordieBoy]

We really need to do a SIIOTN and get marks to show us around the joint. Including those dodgy places and cnut hill.

[marks]

We really need to do a SIIOTN and get marks to show us around the joint. Including those dodgy places and cnut hill.

:yes:..............

[GPS MAN]

:yes:..............


Count me in for that ride:scooter:

[Howie]

A couple of Questions for the KLR riders out there.

1, Does anyone in the Wellington region have the tools for doing the Doo that I could borrow in a couple of weeks? in particular the rotor puller, as I can probably knock a spanner into shape easily enough.

2, As your one of the few I've seen with the Plastic 6.6 gallon tank Mr Woodman. How do you find it, does it offer a bit of protection to the radiator, and is it easy to fit?

3,which of the internet Suppliers is good to deal with?

Thanks Guys

[Woodman]

A couple of Questions for the KLR riders out there.

1, Does anyone in the Wellington region have the tools for doing the Doo that I could borrow in a couple of weeks? in particular the rotor puller, as I can probably knock a spanner into shape easily enough.

2, As your one of the few I've seen with the Plastic 6.6 gallon tank Mr Woodman. How do you find it, does it offer a bit of protection to the radiator, and is it easy to fit?

3,which of the internet Suppliers is good to deal with?

Thanks Guys

1, I have the doo tools here, homemade happy to courier them up if you need them. The rotor puller is just a bolt.

2. IMS tank is great, its a bit wider, but only noticeable when standing. Radiator protection is fabulous (DR word), mine is so garked up that i am surprised it hasn't started leaking, but the radiator etc hasn't been touched. Very easy to fit, i didn't fit the front braces and the USA ones have an extra hose to do something with in the instructions but from memory I just blocked it off.You really notice it when its full, and mine now holds 28 litres. I got evomx foam cubes in mine and that helps with the slosh effect.

3, I got the tank from klr.com. Great to deal with only cost $67usd freight from memory. have used procycle, aviciouscycle, schnitzracing, as well and they all been real good.

hope this helps

[Howie]

1, I have the doo tools here, homemade happy to courier them up if you need them. The rotor puller is just a bolt.

2. IMS tank is great, its a bit wider, but only noticeable when standing. Radiator protection is fabulous (DR word), mine is so garked up that i am surprised it hasn't started leaking, but the radiator etc hasn't been touched. Very easy to fit, i didn't fit the front braces and the USA ones have an extra hose to do something with in the instructions but from memory I just blocked it off.You really notice it when its full, and mine now holds 28 litres. I got evomx foam cubes in mine and that helps with the slosh effect.

3, I got the tank from klr.com. Great to deal with only cost $67usd freight from memory. have used procycle, aviciouscycle, schnitzracing, as well and they all been real good.

hope this helps

Thanks for the reply and the offer. I'll let you know about the tools sometime soon. i had a bit of a hunt around the Net tonight and yep KLR650.com does appear to be the best deal for shipping, i've sent off a few emails to get some price comparisons on the tank.

I also see IMS (http://www.imsproducts.com/Products.cfm?ManufacturerSet=Kawasaki&maD=true&ModelSet=KLR650&modD=true&yeD=true&siD=true&TypeSet=Fuel Tank&SeriesSet=&sed=true&tyd=true&YearsSet=87-11&SizeSet=8-10 gal.) are now making a larger tank to fit the later model KLR's with a lift pump to get the lower down fuel. the price, plus lack of need for the extra distance puts me off it though.

[alane]

I made my own for the old Tengai I have in Aussie.

Went to the Truck wreckers & got a 22mm x 1.5 (thread) wheel bolt.Cut it & welded the nut to the thread part.
Then put a step in a 1 &1/4 inch open ended spanner.
Worked a treat.:niceone:
I think renewing the retaining bolt each time is really extreme.:rolleyes:

[stormtrooper]

Thanks for the reply and the offer. I'll let you know about the tools sometime soon. i had a bit of a hunt around the Net tonight and yep KLR650.com does appear to be the best deal for shipping, i've sent off a few emails to get some price comparisons on the tank.

I also see IMS (http://www.imsproducts.com/Products.cfm?ManufacturerSet=Kawasaki&maD=true&ModelSet=KLR650&modD=true&yeD=true&siD=true&TypeSet=Fuel Tank&SeriesSet=&sed=true&tyd=true&YearsSet=87-11&SizeSet=8-10 gal.) are now making a larger tank to fit the later model KLR's with a lift pump to get the lower down fuel. the price, plus lack of need for the extra distance puts me off it though.

Hi there Howie, i have the doohicky tools here in waikanae you are more than welcome to use them, be careful with KLR.COM i have brought parts from them in the past and they have sent different parts than what they claim to be advertising on line.

STORMTROOPER

[Howie]

Hi there Howie, i have the doohicky tools here in waikanae you are more than welcome to use them, be careful with KLR.COM i have brought parts from them in the past and they have sent different parts than what they claim to be advertising on line.

STORMTROOPER

Thanks for that, I'll probably take you up on that offer. I haven't ordered the doo kit yet, but I'll probably order it straight from Eagle Mfg & Eng (http://eaglemike.com/KLR650-2007-and-earlier_c2.htm)

I was hoping to do this before a trip south for the DB1K, but not sure if I'll get it all organised in time now.

[marks]

I brought a rear wheel off of tard me for a 87 klr and it fits my 08. had to change one bearing and the disk looks different but fits ok.

now I can have a knarly tire and a roady tire all ready to go :)

[flockfish]

I have recently had cause to lie my klr down on some sandy patches and against a tree or two.(dropped it) Does anyone have kind words of wisdom regarding crash bars around the tank, radiator, motor.

[NordieBoy]

I have recently had cause to lie my klr down on some sandy patches and against a tree or two.(dropped it) Does anyone have kind words of wisdom regarding crash bars around the tank, radiator, motor.

Get them.

[Box'a'bits]

I have recently had cause to lie my klr down on some sandy patches and against a tree or two.(dropped it) Does anyone have kind words of wisdom regarding crash bars around the tank, radiator, motor.
Ummmm. Ya should'da had some?

[Padmei]

Do you have a metal tank? Woodman has a IMS tank that covers the radiator & I think that gives pretty good protection. Bigger fuel capacity too.
I had crash bars on my 08 which worked really well except when a stick went between them & still broke the plastics.
I believe a sump guard is more important than anything.
If you are doing hadcore stuff they'll pay for themselves pretty quickly.

[Woodman]

I have recently had cause to lie my klr down on some sandy patches and against a tree or two.(dropped it) Does anyone have kind words of wisdom regarding crash bars around the tank, radiator, motor.

Unfortunately KLRs are a bit fragile when dropped, especially the rad guards and radiator. I used to cabletie stitch my rad guards together each time but eventually they looked like Frankenstein. Nordie used to play find the KLR parts there was that much plastic laying around the Nelson area. The radiator is the main concern and mine eventually got stoved in, it doesn't leak but has lost a hell of a lot of surface area so is not that efficient any more. Eventually a slight crash folded my tank in on itself so I got an IMS 6-6 gallon jobby which does away with the rad guards etc and is friggen awesome as far as crash protection is concerned, in fact among other things the bike can be dropped off a 3 metre bank, land inverted and have no damage whatsoever aside from a broken mirror but I'm working on that.

[Howie]

I have recently had cause to lie my klr down on some sandy patches and against a tree or two.(dropped it) Does anyone have kind words of wisdom regarding crash bars around the tank, radiator, motor.

Due to my plan of doing the DB1K ride in Jan I have just made myself a aluminium skid plate,and ordered
a IMS 6.6 gallon tank. I ordered from KlR650.com. The size of the tank means it replaces the shroulds that fit onto the front of the tank.

Just be aware that if you order from overseas and your order goes over NZ$400 including postage you well probably get a GST bill when the items arrive in NZ. Unfortunatly I think the Tank is going to come in at just over NZ$400, so I'll probably have a extra $60 or so to pay this end.

I didn't like the look or structure of the radiator guards etc that were availiable for the earlier model of the KLR. So decided on the plastic tank as the answer.

There are plenty of USA sites that sell the tank, and various forms of guards online.

There are also a few KLR forums on the net that can be worth looking at to get ideas of what works well, and what doesn't.

.

[stormtrooper]

Unfortunately KLRs are a bit fragile when dropped, especially the rad guards and radiator. I used to cabletie stitch my rad guards together each time but eventually they looked like Frankenstein. Nordie used to play find the KLR parts there was that much plastic laying around the Nelson area. The radiator is the main concern and mine eventually got stoved in, it doesn't leak but has lost a hell of a lot of surface area so is not that efficient any more. Eventually a slight crash folded my tank in on itself so I got an IMS 6-6 gallon jobby which does away with the rad guards etc and is friggen awesome as far as crash protection is concerned, in fact among other things the bike can be dropped off a 3 metre bank, land inverted and have no damage whatsoever aside from a broken mirror but I'm working on that.

I was worried about the radiator getting stoved in on my KLR, considering the price it would be to replace it i decided to make up my own radiator crash bar out of a bit of tube steel that came from an old school chair, i bent it into shape and welded a fixing plate at the bottom and the top, it bolts on were your engine and frame bolts are at the bottom and bolts on were your radiator bolts to the frame, just like a brought one and i even painted it silver to mach the frame, works a treat, droped it many a time with know damage at all, a must do with a stock tank.

STORMTROOPER

[Crim]

Unfortunately KLRs are a bit fragile when dropped, especially the rad guards and radiator. I used to cabletie stitch my rad guards together each time but eventually they looked like Frankenstein.

I hear ya, just replaced my flasher relay (my fix didn't last long) and cleaned my air filter - 6 cable ties later :( ............. and they were good cable ties, cost a coupla cents each, served me well.............. might have to invest in a big tank

[GrantWtf]

I've just ordered a Hyde Racing Poly skid plate, bought a tubing bender and ordered a bunch of tubing to build some protection.. figured it was just a matter of time before all that fragile plastic around the front of my Tengai is a jagged jigsaw.. now just need some shed time!
Hyde Plate here - pic isn't a KLR so trusting that the supplier has got it right, otherwise it might be some heat gun massaging required - http://aviciouscycle.ca/mainpages/productpage.aspx?productid=432

[pete376403]

Let us know how it works out - the standard "bash plate" on my '08 has been broken and I don't recall having smacked it *that* hard.

As long as you're making the bottom of the bike less vulnerable, have you looked at getting a low profile drain plug? The standard one sticks down a long way. I got some of these, only disadvantage is that they are stainless, so magnet won't stick.

(BTW, Howie, if you're reading this - this plug is the one you were meant to come and get )

[flockfish]

Just for a change I dropped the KLR while loading onto a trailer the other day so will be hacking up a Yamahaha TT500 bash plate in the next few days to fit the KLR and scavenging some pipe to see if I'm capable of bending it into a resonable shape to protect the upper bits of the bike. Hopfully the Santa-ette brings me a mig welder (I've dropped enough hints) Keen on one of them low profile sump plugs though. $?

[marks]

Just for a change I dropped the KLR while loading onto a trailer the other day so will be hacking up a Yamahaha TT500 bash plate in the next few days to fit the KLR and scavenging some pipe to see if I'm capable of bending it into a resonable shape to protect the upper bits of the bike. Hopfully the Santa-ette brings me a mig welder (I've dropped enough hints) Keen on one of them low profile sump plugs though. $?

My KLR's plastic bash plate didnt last that well so it now has a XR650R bash plate - which was simpler to fit than I expected (amazing what you can drive a nail into if you hit it hard enough...)

[pete376403]

Keen on one of them low profile sump plugs though. $?
I got them from a place called Stig Fasteners in the (with a name like that, where else?) UK.

www.A2Stainless.co.uk item is M12 x 1.50 pipe plug DIN 908 A2-70, 3 pounds, plus another 3 pounds freight. I bought three of them and the remaining two were included in the freight cost, ie 12 pounds for the lot.

You might be able to find something similar locally but the only M12 pipe plugs I could find were 1.25 thread.

[Creeper]

Hey KLR boys.
I have 2 new (still in box) KLR 650 indicators
1 rear left
1 front left

Dropped your bike lately?? Need some replacements??

Both for $90

Cheers

Dave

[pete376403]

What year KLR? (dunno if they changed with The Great Facelift of '08)

[Creeper]

[ Quote. What year KLR? (dunno if they changed with The Great Facelift of '08)]


Yes, they are for an 08 or later

[Howie]

This thread seems to have slowed down a bit??

I have spent a little bit recently on the KLR, before heading south I ordered, and it finally arrived the week before I left. A IMS tank.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TBlWC4qJg-c9K4VcSi5JTtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsit e"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ihNlgWV-5aA/TzDylzJD-gI/AAAAAAAAAUo/C0SKcuob_a4/s640/DSC03469.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/115310009586578115946/February72012?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">February 7, 2012</a></td></tr></table>


When I was changing tyres before heading south I noticed that the Aluminium in the front wheel hub was cracking where the Speedo drive engages it, and a little piece had broken off. On further investigation I discovered that the Speedo drive worm gear was nearly seized. 30 Min later I had that working properly again.

I then had a search on Trademe for a Front wheel, and what do you know I found one at a very reasonable price, in great condition and off a 2005 bike.

so this arrived while I was down south.
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Vin15epJiq9lgj84dQ2ZwtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=e mbedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-I4YNTowZV6g/TzDxBgwgnrI/AAAAAAAAAT0/SVB98uSdRHA/s640/DSC03501.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a>

[Woodman]

That happened to my front wheel as well, thats the main reason for having the vapor. We onnly briefly chatted at Fairlie, will have to talk KLRs next year a bit more, and what are you gonna do with your now spare front wheel?

[Jock_in_NZ]

Hello fellow KLR riders, hoping someone can help.

Does anyone have the tools to do the "doohicky" in Auckland that I could borrow - for some $'s, beer or smokes (or maybe all three!)? Think mines is broken judging by the noise the engine is making and I'd like to get it done before something expensive goes wrong.

Also, does anyone manufacture the uprated "doo" in NZ or do I have to order the one from Eagle Mfg. guys in the US?

[Padmei]

Someones got Woodmans tools which have done the rounds.
You could put in a 08 or later doo from someone that has replaced theirs & just buy the spring from the US. The later doo is actually ok but the spring is the the weak point.

[Howie]

That happened to my front wheel as well, thats the main reason for having the vapor. We onnly briefly chatted at Fairlie, will have to talk KLRs next year a bit more, and what are you gonna do with your now spare front wheel?

I thought I remembered someone having a similar problem, I looked at getting a vapour unit, but then this complete wheel assembly turned up for a price that was close to buying a vapour, and without all the shagging around fitting it.

I am probably going to run one with a street orientated tyre, and the other with a more off road type trye, as I can see myself using the bike a lot more for commuting once I'm mobile again. (daughter is getting licence, so I guess the car well disappear a bit :shit:)

sorry about not hanging round to chat at Fairlie, I still had to registrar at the Motor camp, put up the tent, and figure out how to repair the cooling fan. Oh and my Ankle was a bit sore.


Has anyone on here made suspension improvements to the older model KLR? I think that is the next thing I am going to look at along with doing the doo at some stage.

[GPS MAN]

Hello fellow KLR riders, hoping someone can help.

Does anyone have the tools to do the "doohicky" in Auckland that I could borrow - for some $'s, beer or smokes (or maybe all three!)? Think mines is broken judging by the noise the engine is making and I'd like to get it done before something expensive goes wrong.

Also, does anyone manufacture the uprated "doo" in NZ or do I have to order the one from Eagle Mfg. guys in the US?

I have the tools to open up the beast! If you still need them send me a PM with your address and I'll send them to you...can't beat that..:niceone:

:niceone:I might be able to find my old "doo"..you can have it if you want? Then all you need is the Spring!:clap:

[GPS MAN]

I agree Howie, we need to get together next year and have a KLR Pow-Wow! Unless my situation changes drastically I will be there next year.:niceone:

[Crim]

as will I :wings: now all we need is 56 other people with class, taste and a certain "je ne sais quoi" and we'll have as many KLRs as DRs on DB1k2013

[Woodman]

Howie, I have intiminators in the front and they do help a lot, but at the end of the day front end of a klr is usually on a different ride than the rest of the bike. I also put 10mm more fork oil in just before the db when replacing the fork seals and that seems to have helped a bit too. Embrace the character is my advice.

Got raising links on the back and its ok like that, definite improvement but needs a stronger spring if carrying gear.

[Moki]

Hello fellow KLR riders, hoping someone can help.

Does anyone have the tools to do the "doohicky" in Auckland that I could borrow - for some $'s, beer or smokes (or maybe all three!)? Think mines is broken judging by the noise the engine is making and I'd like to get it done before something expensive goes wrong.

Also, does anyone manufacture the uprated "doo" in NZ or do I have to order the one from Eagle Mfg. guys in the US?


Yeah, I have both the wrench and puller you could borrow. I'm based in Gulf Harbour but work city

To answer your Q about sourcing doos - There are other crowds that do make upgraded doos (Studebaker - I think Happy Trails, KLR.COM push these), but my suggestion is to go with Eagle for a slight difference in cost. Also, the torsion spring seems to be a good mod and quiets the lump down surprisingly quite a bit. Sounds like either you've adjusted the doo and it's at the end of it's travel/or spring tension, or you haven't adjusted it.

[GPS MAN]

Got the wrench and puller to him...Now it's up to him:sweatdrop

[Woodman]

A KLR owner on adv describes his bike.

"all in all money well spent....it always brings me home...and with a big smile on my face.
and its slow enough that i get to keep my license."

[NordieBoy]

slow enough that i get to keep my license.

No 685 kit in his bike then.

[Big Dave]

Had a huge ride on the KLR today. Did 400km through the Sunshine Coast Hinterland with my buddy Mark on his F800. We did Freeway, very twisty scratchers roads, open touring, mountain dirt and hard pack - and the bike nailed all of it.

Party on. Excellent.

[Big Dave]

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/9BcQLiJ_VlQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[GPS MAN]

Great Pics! Still like mine, it's a Love ~ Hate relationship:angry2:

[Normlas]

Has anyone got a stock 08-12 KLR exhaust they have upgraded and is sitting in the garage looking for a new home?

Just bought my first KLR and it has an aftermarket exhaust which is crazy loud, I am keen to get a hold of a stock exhaust, mainly to appease the neighbours and save my ears.

Please PM me if you have something suitable (or a quiet aftermarket one would do too)

Cheers

[GPS MAN]

I have got one...But, better hang onto it ..my aftermarket one has issues like falling off from time to time..

Good Luck! and Welcome to the KLR world;)

[NordieBoy]

Has anyone got a stock 08-12 KLR exhaust they have upgraded and is sitting in the garage looking for a new home?

Just bought my first KLR and it has an aftermarket exhaust which is crazy loud, I am keen to get a hold of a stock exhaust, mainly to appease the neighbours and save my ears.

Please PM me if you have something suitable (or a quiet aftermarket one would do too)

Cheers

What pipe has it got?
You may be able to get a quiet insert for it.

[Normlas]

its a sealed pipe, no screws anywhere, I would have to cut it open to change anything, no brand name or part number on it whatsoever, looks like a cheapy....

any other ideas?

or thoughts on a good NZ source of an alternative, a quick looks at prices quickly puts me into the $500+ dollars, which just seems excessive!

http://i1250.photobucket.com/albums/hh530/Normlas/IMG_2351.jpg

[NordieBoy]

its a sealed pipe, no screws anywhere, I would have to cut it open to change anything, no brand name or part number on it whatsoever, looks like a cheapy....

any other ideas?

or thoughts on a good NZ source of an alternative, a quick looks at prices quickly puts me into the $500+ dollars, which just seems excessive!

The quiet insert goes in the end and just makes the hole smaller.


Not sure on price for a Musket pipe.
http://www.musket.co.nz/product.asp?brand_id=1&cate_id=2&make_id=7&parttype_id=13&model=klr&partNo=&Submit2=Search

[Padmei]

Hello my lil KLRistas
I have been rummagin around in my undies draw (where i keep alll my bike parts now I go commando) & have some parts I want to get rid of.

All off an old pre 07 KLR600/650
Speedo only 82000kms reading on it- barely run in. Speedo cable
front brake hose, rear brake hose & master cylinder
header pipe
clutch cable (I think)
electric fan
plastic broken toolbox thing
airbox door
starter motor
weird bits of plastic & metal odds & ends.
My lil pony - pinkie the unicorn
I have a sprocket or two i think & a spare cush drive bearing for a new KLR
Some items may incur a very cheap charge & if required can be adorned with stickers - fairies are the flavour of the month however kittens or puppies coud show up unexpectedly as surplus stock levels arise.

[Howie]

Hello my lil KLRistas
I have been rummagin around in my undies draw (where i keep alll my bike parts now I go commando) & have some parts I want to get rid of.

All off an old pre 07 KLR600/650
Speedo only 82000kms reading on it- barely run in. Speedo cable
front brake hose, rear brake hose & master cylinder
header pipe
clutch cable (I think)
electric fan
plastic broken toolbox thing
airbox door
starter motor
weird bits of plastic & metal odds & ends.
My lil pony - pinkie the unicorn
I have a sprocket or two i think & a spare cush drive bearing for a new KLR
Some items may incur a very cheap charge & if required can be adorned with stickers - fairies are the flavour of the month however kittens or puppies coud show up unexpectedly as surplus stock levels arise.

I'm interested in the Fan, is it complete with the blades? As mine is still running with the Araldite repair I did down south.

However I'm not interested in fairies, kittens or puppies, and I thought bunnies would be the flavour of the month being near Easter.

A suitable Charge is fine.

[Crim]

Hello my lil KLRistas
I have been rummagin around in my undies draw
clutch cable (I think)

I have been meaning to strap one of them thar things to my frame - (it is too light at the moment) so tell me how much and I'll sort you out, just make sure you don't accidently pack one of your Borats when you remove from your undies draw:facepalm:

[Big Dave]

Hey you people of good taste - I stuck a review of my KLR in the products section:

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/149020-Why-I-like-my-KLR

[Woodman]

Hey you people of good taste - I stuck a review of my KLR in the products section:

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/149020-Why-I-like-my-KLR


Bloody good Dave,

25 years of the klr650 and still going strong:banana:

[NordieBoy]

KLR oil change instructions...
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/DO2pTc5FYWo?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[Jock_in_NZ]

Hello,

Would anyone happen to have an old CVK40 carb they have no use for?

After much swearing and sweating trying to get the four very well chewed screws that hold the diaphragm cap on I've gone and broke the cap and managed to tear the diagphram too :angry:

So that's ruined my day and my transport to work until I can source one. Anyone know if the Harley-Davidson parts fit this carb or do I have to get them from Kawasaki ($$$$)?

Cheers.

[Woodman]

Hello,

Would anyone happen to have an old CVK40 carb they have no use for?

After much swearing and sweating trying to get the four very well chewed screws that hold the diaphragm cap on I've gone and broke the cap and managed to tear the diagphram too :angry:

So that's ruined my day and my transport to work until I can source one. Anyone know if the Harley-Davidson parts fit this carb or do I have to get them from Kawasaki ($$$$)?

Cheers.

No carby here sorry, bugger when things break aye?


From what I have read on the computer a lot of Harlry Ferguson bits do fit and are a lot cheaper than kawasaki and some bits are chrome too.

[Padmei]

A local guy I went riding with the other day has a stock pre 07 exhaust if anyone is interested. Unless he's reading this thread I might have to do a bit of detective work to find him tho.

No carbs tho sorry:(

[Jock_in_NZ]

No carby here sorry, bugger when things break aye?


From what I have read on the computer a lot of Harlry Ferguson bits do fit and are a lot cheaper than kawasaki and some bits are chrome too.

It sure is - bus to work this week for me. Kawasaki seem to have used screws, nuts and bolts that are about as tough and durable as cheese left in the sun for a day!

I'll give the local HD agent a call tomorrow as I've also read on the interweb about some of their models using the CV40 carb. Fingers crossed because I know Kawa will be expensive.

[Drew206]

A local guy I went riding with the other day has a stock pre 07 exhaust if anyone is interested. Unless he's reading this thread I might have to do a bit of detective work to find him tho.

No carbs tho sorry:(

Hey Padmei,

Yup still got the pre 07 exhaust sitting here as well as a few other parts. All free to a good home. I will put up a complete list once I have moved house next weekend and had a chance to look at what I have.

[Normlas]

I'm definitely interested in the exhaust! (PM sent.)

Does anyone know if a pre-07 exhaust will fit a 2008? Or maybe with some minor modification?

[Crim]

as well as a few other parts.

If you have got any wheels I will name my first born after you (as long as your name is Amy:facepalm:)

[Woodman]

Finally fitted up the WR muffler today. spent an enjoyable arvo in the shed cutting and welding the pipe to get the right angles etc. Dunno what the WR pipe is made from but it was an ass to weld, blew a few holes in it so had to weld a patch on which will need tidying later. Went for a ride and the rear guard melted in just the right place so clears the pipe now. Its a little louder but now the bike doesn't pop and backfire like it used to with the genuine one. Lighter too.

Pics.

http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/003.jpghttp://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/002.jpghttp://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/001.jpg


I know what you are thinking, you are thinking how did he make that bike look even MORE beautiful.

Padmei, arc welder worked fine so the migs safe for now.

[Padmei]

Damn. All you guys with your good skills & stuff. I spent my morning making something that looks like crap & doesn't work...again. :baby:

Still nothing beats the sound of a grinder at 20 000 revs 1st thing Sunday morning.

Woodman do you sometimes lose fuel?

[NordieBoy]

Woodman do you sometimes lose fuel?

Did you find some?

[Woodman]

Woodman do you sometimes lose fuel?

Um only when the bike is inverted, unfortunately that happens too often. What are you getting at?

[Padmei]

Um only when the bike is inverted, unfortunately that happens too often. What are you getting at?

Well that bungie... Ummm... Whats it there for? I thought it was so no fuel drops off the tank:scratch:

[Andy67]

Um only when the bike is inverted, unfortunately that happens too often. What are you getting at?

Hey Woodman, that comment resembles me.....

[Woodman]

Well that bungie... Ummm... Whats it there for? I thought it was so no fuel drops off the tank:scratch:

It started as a way to hold my rain suit on in case i needed it, but because the straps go through the venty hole things in the tank and hook onto the crash bars under the tank it holds the tank on betterer and is more steady when its emptyish. Also prevents the tank from lifting up off the fromt mounts in a spill.

[Andy67]

You are a very complicated individual Woodman.

[NordieBoy]

Tidy older KLR...
<img width=640 src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-O1mOndXBWOE/T8_mx9qWCnI/AAAAAAAAAGA/wroABG8-7k4/s800/IMG_20.JPG>

Almost stock too...

[pete376403]

almost stock apart from the versys motor, p'raps

[Woodman]

nice looking job too, but seriously needs a brake and suspension upgrade now. Especially brake.

[Howie]

A question for you KLR owners, Well a later model (2008+) rear wheel fit on the earlier model Bike?

[Woodman]

A question for you KLR owners, Well a later model (2008+) rear wheel fit on the earlier model Bike?

Marks has an early model rear wheel for his and it works fine. I have an 09 cush hub on mine and its identical to the old one.

[Howie]

Marks has an early model rear wheel for his and it works fine. I have an 09 cush hub on mine and its identical to the old one.

Thanks Woodman, I just purchased This (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=492623092). Price was to good to resist. He seems to have a few other bits available if anyone is after anything.

[Woodman]

Thanks Woodman, I just purchased This (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=492623092). Price was to good to resist. He seems to have a few other bits available if anyone is after anything.

Thats a bloody good buy. Wish I,d seen it

[Crim]

I did see it but after a ride on a WR450 a week or so back I may be shifting "focus"

[Padmei]

I did see it but after a ride on a WR450 a week or so back I may be shifting "focus"

old or new? My mate recently bought an older 450 regoed etc & the top end was rooted - he ended up spending shitloads on it. . I'd wait a couple of years to buy a new one to see what the teething probs are. Maybe I'm being over cautious however anything with a background race pedigree always make me worry about longetivity.

[Crim]

was a 2010 I think - really bloody good to ride though - made the old KLR seem slightly overweight (still got a soft spot for her though) but to be totally honest the change of focus might be a pipe dream - I get a "smaller" bike then I would want a trailer and a bigger bike for longer trips - where would it end

PLUS - can you believe the KLR is LAMS approved, the awesome horse power of most powerful dual sport in the world in the hands of learner riders - ridiculous!!!

[Woodman]

was a 2010 I think - really bloody good to ride though - made the old KLR seem slightly overweight (still got a soft spot for her though) but to be totally honest the change of focus might be a pipe dream - I get a "smaller" bike then I would want a trailer and a bigger bike for longer trips - where would it end

PLUS - can you believe the KLR is LAMS approved, the awesome horse power of most powerful dual sport in the world in the hands of learner riders - ridiculous!!!

Keep it, its just like a big stupid dog thats happy to sit around till you wanna take it for walkees.

if they are lams approved does that mean rego goes down?

[Crim]

Keep it, its just like a big stupid dog thats happy to sit around till you wanna take it for walkees.

if they are lams approved does that mean rego goes down?

Will do, mate - agree with the dog thing too :killingme

I think Lam approved is off HP and rego off CCs - right hand and left hand not talking?????

[Padmei]

woodman & i had a drag race today. You'll be pleased to know that the big Red Dog outpowered the jack russel. Shit it was fun.
Got helmet cam coverage of it jumping a long way.

[888]

What's better than having a suzuki m50? Answer: having a 2007 KLR to back it up!! Okay, I have nae told the wife that I will have two bikes but there you go. So it has 20k on it, 12V connector, braided front brake line, bash plate, heated hand grips and center stand. Not a bad start, but once I get it home I'll see if any airbox mods have been done. Now the modding starts: Doohickey sounds like a must (?), and the Happy Trails/ProCycle/Dualstar websites have about $1000NZ worth of bits I "must have". This one is ugly as with very faded plastics but it runs well and I won't be worried about giving it a good thrashing this weekend on the Coromandel gravel roads. Now.....what to tell the wife.....:crazy::wacko:

[Woodman]

What's better than having a suzuki m50? Answer: having a 2007 KLR to back it up!! Okay, I have nae told the wife that I will have two bikes but there you go. So it has 20k on it, 12V connector, braided front brake line, bash plate, heated hand grips and center stand. Not a bad start, but once I get it home I'll see if any airbox mods have been done. Now the modding starts: Doohickey sounds like a must (?), and the Happy Trails/ProCycle/Dualstar websites have about $1000NZ worth of bits I "must have". This one is ugly as with very faded plastics but it runs well and I won't be worried about giving it a good thrashing this weekend on the Coromandel gravel roads. Now.....what to tell the wife.....:crazy::wacko:

welcome aboard, they are a great machine despite what some may say.

[dino3310]

Finally fitted up the WR muffler today.

.

:clap: i got one of those on the XR
but have wondered if it would be restricting it a bit being off a 400/450cc machine or would it be more open as its a semi race pipe:scratch:

[Woodman]

:clap: i got one of those on the XR
but have wondered if it would be restricting it a bit being off a 400/450cc machine or would it be more open as its a semi race pipe:scratch:

WR450 has a shitload more horsepowers than my KLR.

The bike does not back fire anymore, the engine seems a lot smoother and appears to go through the rev range a lot better somehow. Tis a bit louder tho, but not obscene.

[Padmei]

No it's actually quite quiet - in a low grumbly way. I was really comfortable riding your one on Sunday. It has power.

[NordieBoy]

:clap: i got one of those on the XR
but have wondered if it would be restricting it a bit being off a 400/450cc machine or would it be more open as its a semi race pipe:scratch:

At the revs the 450's run at, it's flowing much more gas than a 600-650 will.

[888]

Great ride out to Stony Bay last weekend, really impressed with the KLR. Excellent fuel efficiency- around 25km's per litre. Pretty easy gravel, with the last 9k's to Stony Bay having some seriously sharp rocks, some chunking on the TW42 rear but no real issues. Now I guess I "have to" do the Doohickey upgrade- $129 for the whole kit from ProCycle...wonder how much my local mechanic will charge, can't be more than one hour labour??? Super comfortable to ride on the road and very manuverable at slow speed on steep gravel roads, absolutely stoked.

[Woodman]

Glad you enjoying it. 25kms per litre is exceptional btw. 18kms per litre is about what Mine gets.

[pete376403]

What year KLR? '08's onward the doo was redesigned so the need to replace it is less urgent. The spring however is reportedly too long and incapable of retensioning the lever.

There is heaps of how-to info and videos on the 'net if you do need to replace it eg http://www.klr650.marknet.us/

[888]

I wasn't thrashing it and cruising at around 110kph with the exception of the majority of the gravel roads in second/third gear. I'm blown away by the fuel efficiency as well- new notoil air filter, fresh oil, tire pressure at 28F and 32R (higher than manual recommendation of 21F 28R which seems too low for the road) and I've replaced the floppy front fender with a more streamlined super moto- cruising on the highway I'm at just under 4.5k on the tach at 105kph which seems to be the most efficient cruising speed. It is a 2007 model so I guess the motor will soon explode if I don't do the damned Doohickey upgrade....I'm also looking at the Res/Rad guard from Happy Trails, looks like a good protection upgrade. Photo shows the bike out coromandel way- bag had about 20kg of gear and was barely noticeable when negotiating some of the tight gravel roads.

[888]

So can anyone recommend a good bike shop to do the Doohickey upgrade? I'm in the Te Awamutu area......I've looked at the "how to" instructions and the upgrade is definately out of my league!:eek5:

[Crim]

So can anyone recommend a good bike shop to do the Doohickey upgrade? I'm in the Te Awamutu area......I've looked at the "how to" instructions and the upgrade is definately out of my league!:eek5:

No it isn't - I gave it a crack and succesfully did it (and I have five thumbs on one hand, a couple of glass eyes and the mechanical aptitude of Priness Celestia, Padmei can tell you she is a my little pony!), just need a few "special" tools (there are some floating around NZ) and follow instructions. You'll get a great sense of accomplishment - the more work you can do on your own bike the better prepared you are to help DR riders when they break down out in the back blocks (KLRs never break down)
One thing I learnt from the experience - always clean your bike before you start work on it, mud dropped in to the guts of it - not a good thing!
Cheers Crim

[888]

I would like to do it myself, so I may very well give it a crack...the ProCycle kit comes with all the necessary tools and parts so that is the easy part!! I should also point out that I used to have a DR650 and I far prefer the KLR!!

[Padmei]

Triple eight don't get too hung up with the doo thing. Your bike wil be ok for a while without it done. The early pre 07s doos were carp & were very thin, the new ones are reasonably chunky. I got all paranoid & got a new one & when I saw the stock one I felt I shouldn't have worried so much. I got mine done on the 12K service & the dealer did it for free ( I imported the kit over) On the newer bikes 07+ it is the spring that is the problem & loses tension mine was stretched.

A while after getting it done for some reason I can't remember what I was doing (valve check?)but I dropped a screw down the engine behind the rotor - it was one of those situations where there has been plenty of warnings from others to cover up the holes . Anyway like yourself I was scared of walking into the cave of dragons however arming myself with the manual & Woodmans rotor remover thing I opened it up & hey- the sky didn't drop on my head:sweatdrop

Give it a go. I believe in you...

[pete376403]

I would like to do it myself, so I may very well give it a crack...the ProCycle kit comes with all the necessary tools and parts so that is the easy part!! I should also point out that I used to have a DR650 and I far prefer the KLR!!

Oh shit you've done it now!

[pete376403]

I woudn't be at all surprised if a lot of the gen 1 doo problems were self inflicted (by the owners) overtightening the clamping bolt after a balance chain adjustment.

[Woodman]

I woudn't be at all surprised if a lot of the gen 1 doo problems were self inflicted (by the owners) overtightening the clamping bolt after a balance chain adjustment.

yea naa. My doo was fine but the spring was broken and just hanging there. God only knows for how long it had been like that.

888, It is quite easy and , and you are right about the DR too.:ar15:

[888]

So could you hear/feel anything with the spring broke? It would be great if their was an external assessment that indicated doohickey repair, but I think you just have to open it up to find out. And by that time you may as well upgrade the parts! I see procycle has a T-bob/thermostat bypass that may or may not be necessary....but I feel I should get one....:headbang:

[888]

http://klr6500.tripod.com/balancer.htm

This guys website has some good info, I'll do this adjustment first.

[pete376403]

So could you hear/feel anything with the spring broke? It would be great if their was an external assessment that indicated doohickey repair, but I think you just have to open it up to find out. And by that time you may as well upgrade the parts! I see procycle has a T-bob/thermostat bypass that may or may not be necessary....but I feel I should get one....:headbang:

The T-bob is a very emotive thing (on the US forums they will go to war over it). Watt-man, the guy who developed the bob, has pretty solid evidence of why and how it works. Won't do anything at all for overheating, but it sure does work for over-cooling. I know on my KLR that the temp guage used to wander all over the place whereas now with the t-bob in place it comes up to temperature fast and stays there.

Overcooling can be harmful to the engine just as overheating can be. The t-bob is just normal automotive watercooling practice, the last car I saw that had cooling systems as crude as the stock KLR design was a 1937 Austin 10 I used to own.

[888]

Over-cooling?? I enjoy the fact that I learn a new thing erreyday. Seriously, I actually thought the only issue was the engine getting too hot?? I'll think about the whole overcooling thing later, but is the procycle temp overide a version of the tbob? So far my temp gauge goes very quickly to half way when being a pussy on the tight gravel roads, and immediately goes down to minimum when I'm able to get back up to speed (third gear 50kph+), then again I imagine if I had done the same ride on a stonkin' hot summer day the gauge might read higher in the slow bits? The first mod i'm doing prior to hitting the back roads of Waitomo (Pomerangi Road!!!) is a change to a 14T front sprocket, I'm picking that will make the slow technical bits (dodging the stock trucks) an easier proposition.

[Padmei]

It won't be long before you change back to the 15. The low gearing is good for a dedicated offroad day but as with most bikes it gets annoying on the road. the KLR has heaps of grunt to run a 15 tooth.

I remember when i did the drilled slide, shimming needle & airbox mod - absolutely transformed the engine - shitloads more responsive. A new pipe is good too, I put a R1 pipe on mine & it fricking rumbled ooooooohHHHHhhh yeah

[pete376403]

An internal combution engine has an optimum temperature that it runs at. Too hot is obviously bad leading to component failure (coolant boils out,gaskets blow, lubrication can't cope, etc ). Overcooling isn't immediately but fuel economy can suffer, water and acids build up in lube oil as it never gets hot enough to boil them away leading, over the long term, to corrosion inside the engine.

I have also read that components are manufactured to conform to a certain size or shape when they are at the correct temperature.

Have a look at watt-mans page http://www.watt-man.com/Information__Articles.html where he details the theory and results of his testing.

[Woodman]

My advice and comments.

No I couldn't tell whether my doo spring was broken, just went in there because the internet said I should.

Mine used to have wild temp swings as well and got quite hot quite regularly, on anything slowish the fan was on a lot. Thermobob fitted now and the temp stays pretty even and funnily enough doesn't get hot as often. The procycle version looks a whole lot tidier than the thermobob.

Padmei is right about the 14 tooth. the only time I miss it is on very steep downhills. If you find the fifteen too high use the clutch, as klrs have bulletproof clutches, and anyway they will tractor up most hills.

Great bikes, enjoy it and don't get too bogged down with all the stuff online.

685 kit is a great improvement though.:nono:

[nerdneh]

My advice and comments.

No I couldn't tell whether my doo spring was broken, just went in there because the internet said I should.

Mine used to have wild temp swings as well and got quite hot quite regularly, on anything slowish the fan was on a lot. Thermobob fitted now and the temp stays pretty even and funnily enough doesn't get hot as often. The procycle version looks a whole lot tidier than the thermobob.

Padmei is right about the 14 tooth. the only time I miss it is on very steep downhills. If you find the fifteen too high use the clutch, as klrs have bulletproof clutches, and anyway they will tractor up most hills.

Great bikes, enjoy it and don't get too bogged down with all the stuff online.

685 kit is a great improvement though.:nono:

Good advice, which vegetable Mr P.?

[tri boy]

I know the pacific island nations arn't exactly flush with cash, but sheesh, they must really be financially impoverished at the moment.
Raro coppers on BLUE KLRs,
Must of been a really bad Taro export season...........:dodge:

[NordieBoy]

I know the pacific island nations arn't exactly flush with cash, but sheesh, they must really be financially impoverished at the moment.
Raro coppers on BLUE KLRs,
Must of been a really bad Taro export season...........:dodge:

Really? The only KLR I saw last month wasn't being ridden by a copper.

There was a nicely restored 81-82 XR250 though.

[pete376403]

KLR for Kook Kops being prepped at Motorad Wellington prior to being sent over there

[NordieBoy]

KLR for Kook Kops being prepped at Motorad Wellington prior to being sent over there

Wonder if he gets a turn with the radar gun?

[Woodman]

I know the pacific island nations arn't exactly flush with cash, but sheesh, they must really be financially impoverished at the moment.
Raro coppers on BLUE KLRs,
Must of been a really bad Taro export season...........:dodge:

This is why I love klrs......

[888]

Interesting comment from the "Stealership" I got the KLR from: "no one really worries about coolant in their bikes, it's just not an issue". This after I picked up the bike and noticed their was very low coolant in the reservoir. And the battery had almost zero fluid. And the heated handlebar grips didn't work. And most of the screws on the fairings were missing. I topped up the coolant and the battery and the bike went back in so they could fix all the other bits. Typical from this particular dealership- but the question remains: does anyone check their coolant and flush the radiator on a regular basis? I know I'm going to...:eek5:

[pete376403]

I do check levels (oil, water, battery, brakes) regularly. Oil seems to be the only one I have to top up (frequently)

the factory coolant has corrosion inhibitor so if you flush it out, remember to add more (corrosion inhibitor)

Also regularly have good look around for missing fasteners. Loctite is your friend.

The other thing I would recommend is to pull the rear suspension apart to grease the linkage bearings and swingarm pivot bearings. They have bugger all grease applied in the factory. The big bolt behind the plastic covers (just aft of the footrests) corrodes very easily and becomes next to impossible to get out of the linkage rocker.

All this and more is covered at the marknet KLR site.

Oh, and steering head bearings should be checked for grease as well, factory skimped there, too

[888]

Good call, linkage and swingarm bearing greasing has been in the back of my mind, but I'll get that done asap. Is there a "best product" for motorcycle coolant, or is any Mobil Anti-Freeze "servo" stuff good enough?? I've found a great tutorial on flushing out the radiator/resorvoir but I want to put in the best product.

[Woodman]

I have replaced my coolant twice in 5 years. first was just routine, second was when I rebuilt the motor, mind you I check the fluids quite regularly because the bike occaisionally (regularly) gets inverted. Greased swingarm and suspension pivots 2 or 3 times. Use coppercote on axles and pivots on final assembly then they will never corrode in and will just slide out.
Never done steering head bearings but will when replacing yet another blown fork seal.

[Padmei]

I didn't realise you bought a new KLR triple 8. Before you do too many miles go thru & loctite all your bolts especially your subframe bolts & def grease your swingarm. I replaced my coolant after a couple of years.
Don't get too hung up on details with the KLR ( I know I was when I first got mine)- they've been around for many years, engines are under-stressed & pretty well bulletproof & lope along at a reasonable pace for NZ conditions.

[888]

I didn't realise you bought a new KLR triple 8. Before you do too many miles go thru & loctite all your bolts especially your subframe bolts & def grease your swingarm. I replaced my coolant after a couple of years.
Don't get too hung up on details with the KLR ( I know I was when I first got mine)- they've been around for many years, engines are under-stressed & pretty well bulletproof & lope along at a reasonable pace for NZ conditions.

My bad, actually a used (20k on da clock 2007) KLR. Luckily the "stealership" has come to the party and fixed all the issues I had at first and given me a three month warranty on the battery (will it last that long:lol:?) and they gave me a hundy voucher for their shite prep on the bike before I took it out. I've said it before and I'll say it again, I love the KLR far more than the Zook DR650 I had before, it is just a far superior bike for my style of riding :banana::banana:

[888]

Im selling my KLR guys, found a sports bike that ive wanted for agges in perfect nic, so sadly its gonna go.

However,

I have for sale some spares that i was accumulating prior to my 12000km service, amongst other things.

NEW Eaglemike DOO kit $100
Front Pads - OEM Nissan HH sintered (brand new) $70 ($80+ from dealer)
K&N Oil filter and NGK Iridium plug NEW $20
Dririder Summit Pro jacket Small (brand new condition, mac daddy jacket) $250 (rrp $399)
FFM matrix adventure helmet with clear and smoked visor (1 month old, mint) $150 (rrp $250)

Anyone interested in the KLR, lemme know. 2009, hasnt burned a drop of oil, 11,000kms, ZG screen, givi crash bars, top box, good tyres, headlight protector, heated grips, stomp grip. Looking for $9k.

Keen for the the DOO kit- have you still got it????

[Morcs]

Keen for the the DOO kit- have you still got it????

Doo kit sold last year, within 2 days of listing it too.

[Woodman]

hello, hello anyone here?

Ok maybe an update to keep the thread alive. Too much DR stuff on KB.

Blew my rear shocky again so have odered a Ricor one which is due soonish. Ordered the heaviest sprung one as my weight was just under the low limit of the heavy spring specs and i am sick of bottoming out the standard one. Just realised yesterday that mine has raising links so that will make the spring even harder i think so time will tell. Will update when its fitted. Weirdly the Ricor shock has no damping adjustment, odd but then I run with as little damping as possible anyway. Hopeefully the rear will be really good, but will make the front seem way worse than it already is so maybe a USD fork ugrade next year if the Benelli doesn't take up all my shedtime funds.

The WR muffler has certainly made a difference to the smoothness of the bike for some reason, and it doesn't backfire anymore on decell. Dunno if it has got anymore hp, can't tell, don't care.

Who elses KLRs turn the front wheel opposite to the disc side under hard braking? Mine does it quite badly now.


That should be enough for now.

Bored tonight.:facepalm:

[Crim]

was reading Wilddog (SA adv site) and came across this picture, I seem to remember an exact same bike in an exact same situation - have we found the only weakness of the mighty KLR? Seems it may not be rider error but an air intake that may be too low??

272428

[pete376403]

hello, hello anyone here?

Ok maybe an update to keep the thread alive. Too much DR stuff on KB.


The WR muffler has certainly made a difference to the smoothness of the bike for some reason, and it doesn't backfire anymore on decell. Dunno if it has got anymore hp, can't tell, don't care.

Who elses KLRs turn the front wheel opposite to the disc side under hard braking? Mine does it quite badly now.


That should be enough for now.

Bored tonight.:facepalm:

What model WR muffler? Much hacking to make it fit?

My 2008 doesn't have the fork twist problem but gen IIs have 48mm diameter fork toobs. Do you have a fork brace? All the bolts tight?

Agree that theres waaaay to much DR stuff. Even the mountain bike thread gets more attention than this one.

[NordieBoy]

My 2008 doesn't have the fork twist problem but gen IIs have 48mm diameter fork toobs.

But the sliders have probably shrunk in the wash to about 41mm, 3mm bigger than the gen I's ;)

[Woodman]

But the sliders have probably shrunk in the wash to about 41mm, 3mm bigger than the gen I's ;)

Have you syill got that front end hanging from the rafters in the emporium?

[NordieBoy]

Have you syill got that front end hanging from the rafters in the emporium?

Yep. 46mm USD

[Padmei]

Just a reminder i still have bits & pieces of KlR in boxes including header pipe - no wheels, frames, shocks etc - wait I may have a manky rear.

[NordieBoy]

Wait I may have a manky rear.

Faaaaarrrrrrrrr too much information...

:crazy:

[Howie]

hello, hello anyone here?

Ok maybe an update to keep the thread alive. Too much DR stuff on KB.

Blew my rear shocky again so have odered a Ricor one which is due soonish. Ordered the heaviest sprung one as my weight was just under the low limit of the heavy spring specs and i am sick of bottoming out the standard one. Just realised yesterday that mine has raising links so that will make the spring even harder i think so time will tell. Will update when its fitted. Weirdly the Ricor shock has no damping adjustment, odd but then I run with as little damping as possible anyway. Hopeefully the rear will be really good, but will make the front seem way worse than it already is so maybe a USD fork ugrade next year

Who elses KLRs turn the front wheel opposite to the disc side under hard braking? Mine does it quite badly now.


Bored tonight.:facepalm:

Too Much DR stuff? is that because the owners are always working on them, rather than riding them...

Haven't noticed the turning in prob under hard braking on mine.

[NordieBoy]

Who elses KLRs turn the front wheel opposite to the disc side under hard braking? Mine does it quite badly now.

Loose axle clamp?
Does it keep turning or just turn a set amount through the bars?
Notchy steering bearings?
I know mine are far more noticeable with a passenger/more loading.

[Woodman]

What model WR muffler? Much hacking to make it fit?
.

450 I think, it is quite long so goes up on an angle which looks quite cool IMHO. Had to make a sort of "s" shaped join by cutting and welding for the mid pipe


Loose axle clamp?

Does it keep turning or just turn a set amount through the bars?
Notchy steering bearings?
I know mine are far more noticeable with a passenger/more loading.

Doesn't have axle clamps, bearings are not notchy but have never seen daylight since I have owned it so maybe need a looksee. Just turns a set amount, actually counter steers so is quite handy depending on which way the corner is going

[pete376403]

But the sliders have probably shrunk in the wash to about 41mm, 3mm bigger than the gen I's ;)

Errrr yeah, been reading too much about Yamaha USDs.
While on that topic, are USD Showas any worse / better than the Yamaha forks? They (Showas) don't seem to figure much in the fork swap articles.

[Box'a'bits]

Errrr yeah, been reading too much about Yamaha USDs.
While on that topic, are USD Showas any worse / better than the Yamaha forks? They (Showas) don't seem to figure much in the fork swap articles.
The Showas led the technology, the Kayabas followed. That said, don't think there is major differences. I've got 48mm KYBs on Gus.

[stivernz]

Hello - just bought a KLR600 engine that a previous owner had removed the balancer shafts from (not cleaver):facepalm:. I have a box of bits with the engine that has a 650 barrel and head and has 2 of the 3 balancers with it, both I have are from the left hand side and I need the 1 that goes on the right side, it fits on the water pump shaft. OR a full set from a 600. Any help would be appreciated send a PM:2thumbsup. Cheers Brent

[Woodman]

My new rear shocky is finally in the country, customs have had it for 4 days. :sweatdrop

What do you suppose they are doing with it?

[Padmei]

My new rear shocky is finally in the country, customs have had it for 4 days. :sweatdrop

What do you suppose they are doing with it?

Checking its orifice for drugs???

They do seem to take a while sometimes. I remember my shock was held for about 4 days.

[Woodman]

Checking its orifice for drugs???

They do seem to take a while sometimes. I remember my shock was held for about 4 days.


Got a letter today from customs asking me to declare that it is a personal item and not purchased for commercial reasons. I used my work address for delivery and the description was "automotive part". Rang them up and got told that they I needed to email them a declaration that it was for personal use and also a copy of the paypal receipt. Did that, then they sent a bill for $150 for gst etc etc. Kaching.:motu:

Testing this weekend

[Padmei]

Got a letter today from customs asking me to declare that it is a personal item and not purchased for commercial reasons. I used my work address for delivery and the description was "automotive part". Rang them up and got told that they I needed to email them a declaration that it was for personal use and also a copy of the paypal receipt. Did that, then they sent a bill for $150 for gst etc etc. Kaching.:motu:

Testing this weekend

Fancy a clingon? I charged up snotsos battery & had a ride around the block on it. Frickme it's loud:pinch:

[NordieBoy]

Fancy a clingon? I charged up snotsos battery & had a ride around the block on it. Frickme it's loud:pinch:

How loud was the battery before?

[Woodman]

Fancy a clingon? I charged up snotsos battery & had a ride around the block on it. Frickme it's loud:pinch:

No worries, What sorta ride? Schmidt or Snotso?

You know, you should really get a dual purpose bike, having two is cheating.

[Padmei]

No worries, What sorta ride? Schmidt or Snotso?

You know, you should really get a dual purpose bike, having two is cheating.

Either. If there's a chance of falling off then prob snotso. You would prob want to break you shock in wouldn't you? We can move this over to nelson rideouts as only a few strange people read this thread.

BTW if you transposed the letters of BMW + KLX into numbers then multiplied & square rooted the result yo would have the number that transposes to KLR - cool aye:eek5:

[Woodman]

Very impressive, both on and off road.


Finally fitted the new Ricor rear shocky. Got the hardest spring available and just fitted it as it came. Seemed very hard on the road but on the first test ride up the Wairoa gorge I decided to ride friggen fast as fcuk to see what would happen. The rear end just seemed to soak everything up whereas before I would wince and tense up expecting the rear to bottom out and bounce around, it just took it in its stride leaving me somewhat dissapointed, but happy if you know what I mean. Had to cut that ride short cos it started pissing down and the water was running in the split in me trousers. Actually not all that unpleasant as it turned out.

Took it off again this arvo and sofened it up a bit and went for another test ride with an even better result so the setting can stay where it is. The ricor shocky has no damping adjustment, only preload. apparently its clever enough not to need it.

Also replaced the steering head bearings, and the lower shocky bearing and stripped and regreased all the suspension linkages,swingarm etc and put a new foam filter in to replace the K&N which I don't trust anymore in the dust. Will put new clutch cable, wheel bearings and front and rear brake pads and new tyres on during the week. This bike is starting to resemble Grandpas axe.

Oh and I fell off twice.

Might also put the stock muffler back on as the WR one is too loud and annoying me.

[NordieBoy]

Get some ear plugs...

[pete376403]

I'm going to have to do the 685 thing soon. Been putting it off as long as possible but 1 litre per 600km this past weekend is getting a bit too much. I've probably spent more than the $US259 for the Schnitz kit on oil top ups since the rings were replaced under warranty.

[Woodman]

I'm going to have to do the 685 thing soon. Been putting it off as long as possible but 1 litre per 600km this past weekend is getting a bit too much. I've probably spent more than the $US259 for the Schnitz kit on oil top ups since the rings were replaced under warranty.

You won't be disapointed, just makes it smoother and easier somehow. Mine still uses a bit of oil but only about a litre per change interval which I can live with.

[RedKLR650]

I'm going to have to do the 685 thing soon. Been putting it off as long as possible but 1 litre per 600km this past weekend is getting a bit too much. I've probably spent more than the $US259 for the Schnitz kit on oil top ups since the rings were replaced under warranty.

Keep us in the loop re progress

I imported the 705cc kit and some hot cams about 12 months ago but have yet to do the 'op'

A very experienced and talented local engine reconditioning company is going to fir the new sleeve to the barrell for me so I should get on to that soon :-)

Stu

[pete376403]

One of the forums recommended find a recon shop that does a lot of harley cylinders as they will be experienced in large (for bikes) bore sizes. From what i've read the Schnitz piston is made from a 350 Chev blank

[pete376403]

Keep us in the loop re progress

I imported the 705cc kit and some hot cams about 12 months ago but have yet to do the 'op'

A very experienced and talented local engine reconditioning company is going to fir the new sleeve to the barrell for me so I should get on to that soon :-)

Stu
Are you going to get the head ported to take advantage of the cams? Otherwise what i've read is the port sizes become the bottleneck.

[RedKLR650]

One of the forums recommended find a recon shop that does a lot of harley cylinders as they will be experienced in large (for bikes) bore sizes. From what i've read the Schnitz piston is made from a 350 Chev blank

Not sure what it's made from, but there's bugger all of it

Huge diameter but the shortest skirts I've ever seen ( and I've seen some short skirts ! )

Amazed it doesn't twist in the cylinder

[RedKLR650]

Are you going to get the head ported to take advantage of the cams? Otherwise what i've read is the port sizes become the bottleneck.

HAdn't got that far down the research track yet, but sounds like a cunning plan........

[Crim]

G'day,

thought I would let you learn from my mistakes - designed a high tech, really expensive touring screen (about $4.70 all up so far), take 1, as you can see I cunningly took a sheet of perspex and added it into the existing screen thereby extending it :woohoo:

[Crim]

Unfortunatly all that did was redirect the airflow (and sundry insects) from the bottom / chin of my helmet up into my eyes / peak area so making a slight noise problem into a really noisy noise problem :cry:

so for part two I borrowd a heat gun and bent the whole thing up and forward (and braced it with some off cut from the off cut), hopefully this will take the airflow up and over my helmet - will advise when I take her for a decent highway run

[NordieBoy]

Yep, that's one of the issues I had with Padmei's screen on Gonzo. Right smack in the visor, rattling teef and causing an instant headache.

I kept lowering mine until the flow was below helmet level.

[Woodman]

Unfortunatly all that did was redirect the airflow (and sundry insects) from the bottom / chin of my helmet up into my eyes / peak area so making a slight noise problem into a really noisy noise problem :cry:

so for part two I borrowd a heat gun and bent the whole thing up and forward (and braced it with some off cut from the off cut), hopefully this will take the airflow up and over my helmet - will advise when I take her for a decent highway run


Remove the screen entirely and get earplugs. Only thing that worked for me, and no buffetting.

BTW your bike is looking lovely and dusty.

[Padmei]

Yep i found the only way to get air floating over the top of the helmet was to have tall screen. Looked really dorky but really comfy behind in cooler weather. It is a lot less tiring behind a screen on long rides.

[Crim]

Looked really dorky

See now I know you are taking the Michael .............. "looked really dorky" and a KLR in the same sentence - Oxymoron ............unless of course it was as thus;

The {insert name of bike here, orange, weak 3rd, armchair or whatever} looked really dorky beside the awesomeness that was the KLR!

............will take the old girl for a spin, if it works all good if it doesn't the old screen can go back on or I might try without

[Padmei]

See now I know you are taking the Michael .............. "looked really dorky" and a KLR in the same sentence - Oxymoron ............unless of course it was as thus;

The {insert name of bike here, orange, weak 3rd, armchair or whatever} looked really dorky beside the awesomeness that was the KLR!

............will take the old girl for a spin, if it works all good if it doesn't the old screen can go back on or I might try without

awesome:shutup:

[Crim]

G'day KLRites

Been looking at the Rox Pivoting anti-vibe risers (get 'em forward as well as up) - found these action shots on KLR.net - are they as good as they look, would make standing a truck load easier, wouldn't they (I am 6 foot)? - Thoughts, please?

[Padmei]

Looks to me they aren't very stable?

[Woodman]

Thought about rox risers, but they look like just another thing to break in a spill. I went the whole tall handlebar thing but have gone back to lower, but pushed forward as its nicer on the road. Also I like to lean forward when standing.

[Crim]

Looks to me they aren't very stable?

nah, that is two seperate photos (beofre and after) that he has jiggerypokeried together

Sorry, should have known you were extracting the pee!

[pete-blen]

they don't move when in use... thats just showing the range of movement....

http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showitems.cgi?multicatlabel_id=79&multicatsublabel_id=268

[Padmei]

humour fail:no:

[Box'a'bits]

I've got the standard Rox Risers in Gus. MarkS also has them on his KLR. We both have found them excellent in improving the riding position & being able to give more room than the standard or after market bars can give, because of their ability to rotate.

In my Odlins Rd crash, the rox risers move back. Probably helped limit the damage to other components, given Gus landed mostly upside down. They were then just rotated forward again & we were in business again.

Unfortunately the rider wasn't

[RedKLR650]

G'day KLRites

Been looking at the Rox Pivoting anti-vibe risers (get 'em forward as well as up) - found these action shots on KLR.net - are they as good as they look, would make standing a truck load easier, wouldn't they (I am 6 foot)? - Thoughts, please?

I got the Roxy Anti-Vibe Risers and they made a HUGE difference on long rides ( TT2000 etc )

Changing to Aluminium handlebars also seemed to make a difference ( I did this way before the risers )

Alu = 20% less vibe

Anti-Vibe Risers = 70% less vibe

[Crim]

so for part two I borrowd a heat gun and bent the whole thing up and forward (and braced it with some off cut from the off cut), hopefully this will take the airflow up and over my helmet - will advise when I take her for a decent highway run


Well it works - noise is way down but it does start to "flap" a bit in excess of 100ks so stopped in and got some galvanised ceiling ties to brace it lower down - keep on like this and it will crack the $10 mark :no: one thing I have learnt is that if you are using a heat gun on perspex clean it first - those two flies that I thought would burn away are now forever a mark in my windscreen:facepalm:

[Normlas]

So my '08 was burning a scary amount of oil, around 1L/1000km and I was also hovering over the buy button of a 685 cylinder upgrade kit, but luckily, I had a chat to the mechanic at Kawasaki in Auckland (nice people), and they recommended the first thing to try is changing the oil, I was using a semi-synthetic 15W-50 from HiRev, as recommended by bike-bits - turns out a bad recommendation!

So I changed to the Kawasaki recommended Mineral oil - a Motul 3000 10W-40 JASO-AM rated, apparently the JASO-AM rating signifies it's suitable for use with a wet clutch.... and hey presto, oil consumption is totally gone, done 2000 km since and maybe burned 100ml total, saved me a lot of grief and money - so thought I would pass this little gem on to y'all

Also, better / smoother gear changes, no more banging her into 1st on a cold start and a lot less smoke out the back.

Question - is anyone in NZ selling those anti-vibration ROX risers? they sound nice :)

[Owl]

apparently the JASO-AM rating signifies it's suitable for use with a wet clutch....

JASO-MA:yes:

[Crim]

got home from work - banged two new tyres on (E09 on rear and MT21 on front), changed oil and still got to see the sports news :woohoo:



but I did finish work at 2pm :oi-grr:

that E09 was a bugger to get on!

[pete376403]

So my '08 was burning a scary amount of oil, around 1L/1000km and I was also hovering over the buy button of a 685 cylinder upgrade kit, but luckily, I had a chat to the mechanic at Kawasaki in Auckland (nice people), and they recommended the first thing to try is changing the oil, I was using a semi-synthetic 15W-50 from HiRev, as recommended by bike-bits - turns out a bad recommendation!

So I changed to the Kawasaki recommended Mineral oil - a Motul 3000 10W-40 JASO-AM rated, apparently the JASO-AM rating signifies it's suitable for use with a wet clutch.... and hey presto, oil consumption is totally gone, done 2000 km since and maybe burned 100ml total, saved me a lot of grief and money - so thought I would pass this little gem on to y'all

Also, better / smoother gear changes, no more banging her into 1st on a cold start and a lot less smoke out the back.

Question - is anyone in NZ selling those anti-vibration ROX risers? they sound nice :)

Thats interesting. After Kawakai NZ replaced the piston rings on my '08 (for excessive oil consumption, about 1 litre per 750Km) one of the things they stressed was that I only use semi-synthetic oil. Well as time went on and the oil use remained the same (high) I gave up on the expensive stuff and now use Rotella, still burns oil like a two-stroke but it's cheaper.
When I have a bit of spare cash I'll be going for the 685.

Re the rox risers - I'm using Renthal fat bars with solid Zeta (?) risers and the vibration seems to be bearable (with standard bar end weights). Gets pretty buzzy over 5000, though.

[Normlas]

Thats interesting. After Kawakai NZ replaced the piston rings on my '08 (for excessive oil consumption, about 1 litre per 750Km) one of the things they stressed was that I only use semi-synthetic oil. Well as time went on and the oil use remained the same (high) I gave up on the expensive stuff and now use Rotella, still burns oil like a two-stroke but it's cheaper.
When I have a bit of spare cash I'll be going for the 685.

Re the rox risers - I'm using Renthal fat bars with solid Zeta (?) risers and the vibration seems to be bearable (with standard bar end weights). Gets pretty buzzy over 5000, though.

Hi Pete,
that sounds like good grounds to go back to Kawasaki and get them to change the rings again or even pay for the 685 kit and install, another thing they mentioned to me was that if I had used the semi-synthetic stuff for a longer time, it can permanently affect the bore and rings, something about it 'burning in'. Given the mineral oil fixed my issue, I guess this didn't happen to my bike.

BTW - pannier racks are still great, going to give them the big test this Xmas!

[_Shrek_]

hey guys brother is doing a rebuild on his 84 KLR600 1st of the water does have head casket set or where can he get one?

thats just for the start, :facepalm:

[Howie]

hey guys brother is doing a rebuild on his 84 KLR600 1st of the water does have head casket set or where can he get one?

thats just for the start, :facepalm:

A helpful site for part numbers, and cmparing them to later models is: http://www.kawasaki.com/home/home.aspx

Go to owner info, then parts diagrams enter bike info, and you well access full parts diagrams.
The head gsaket your after is #11004-1123, which is differant to the one for my 650 11004-1158, so they aren't the same as the later ones?

ebay seems to have a few suppliers.

other places to try could be to have a search on some of the KLR forums for ideas on where to get parts for the 600.
http://www.klr650.net/forums/index.php

or http://klrworld.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=233

[_Shrek_]

A helpful site for part numbers, and cmparing them to later models is: http://www.kawasaki.com/home/home.aspx

cheers :apint: Howie, will pass this info of to little bro

:shit: just re read my post & you still managed to understand what I was saying :drinknsin

[Woodman]

cheers :apint: Howie, will pass this info of to little bro

:shit: just re read my post & you still managed to understand what I was saying :drinknsin

Glad someone did;) I had had a few Steinys and still had trouble. Maybe I will have a few more tonight and re-read it.:lol:


BTW seeing as how the KLR thread has been found (by a BMW rider:crazy:) I have had a few goodies arrive to start installing this weekend.

320mm rotor and pads.
Dynojet kit.
Tee handle mixture screw thing.
Powermadd handlebar riser.
Couple of new levers.
16 tooth front sprocket.
One way fuel vent (so I don't have to put so much in the tank for the inevitable upside down moment and subsequent fuel loss)

Yay for farkles

[_Shrek_]

Glad someone did;) I had had a few Steinys and still had trouble. Maybe I will have a few more tonight and re-read it.:lol:

:motu:

this might help!!! alot easier than :drinkup: then trying to figure it out :rolleyes:

hey guys my brother is doing a rebuild on his 84 KLR600 1st of the water cooled, does anyone have a head casket set or where he can get one?


BTW seeing as how the KLR thread has been found (by a BMW rider:crazy:)

some one has to for ya!!! coz you always getting lost :nya:



I have had a few goodies arrive to start installing this weekend.

320mm rotor and pads.
Dynojet kit.
Tee handle mixture screw thing.
Powermadd handlebar riser.
Couple of new levers.
16 tooth front sprocket.
One way fuel vent (so I don't have to put so much in the tank for the inevitable upside down moment and subsequent fuel loss)

Yay for farkles

even with all this new shit on, it will still drown in puddles :whistle:

[Howie]

Glad someone did;) I had had a few Steinys and still had trouble. Maybe I will have a few more tonight and re-read it.:lol:


BTW seeing as how the KLR thread has been found (by a BMW rider:crazy:) I have had a few goodies arrive to start installing this weekend.

320mm rotor and pads.
Dynojet kit.
Tee handle mixture screw thing.
Powermadd handlebar riser.
Couple of new levers.
16 tooth front sprocket.
One way fuel vent (so I don't have to put so much in the tank for the inevitable upside down moment and subsequent fuel loss)

Yay for farkles

Have fun fitting all the new bits, Make sure you eiher cable tie or glue the one way vent valve onto the fuel cap. I lost mine somewhere around Lake Onslow on the DB1K last year, luckly I also had a normal vent tube still routed on the bike and just had to cut a couple of cable ties then attach it.

Had a couple of packages arrive recently too. I'm just about to head to the shed to do the doo. I also got the extended piolt air screw, it is a good idea, but still a pain to adjust when the exhaust is hot. I like the Maier handguards I should of broght them ages ago.

The other issue I need to look into is an intermittant fuel problem in the mid range. The bike can run fine for 100's km then starts playing up. So I think i'll be pulling the carb out for a clean if I get time.

[Woodman]

Have fun fitting all the new bits, Make sure you eiher cable tie or glue the one way vent valve onto the fuel cap. I lost mine somewhere around Lake Onslow on the DB1K last year, luckly I also had a normal vent tube still routed on the bike and just had to cut a couple of cable ties then attach it.

Had a couple of packages arrive recently too. I'm just about to head to the shed to do the doo. I also got the extended piolt air screw, it is a good idea, but still a pain to adjust when the exhaust is hot. I like the Maier handguards I should of broght them ages ago.

The other issue I need to look into is an intermittant fuel problem in the mid range. The bike can run fine for 100's km then starts playing up. So I think i'll be pulling the carb out for a clean if I get time.


Packages are good aye!

I have had maier handgaurds for ages, bloody brilliant, but getting a bit tatty now. Mine does that carby thing from time to time as well, usually I can fix it mid ride by revving the crap out of it for a while, if not I just pull the carb off and clean it. Always fixes it. The reason I got the jet kit was because ever since the WR muffler has been on the bike has pulled like the proverbial, enough to make me change my riding style, but has dropped off in the upper rev range so hopefully the kit will keep the bottom end the same and restore the top end back t or better than before.

Just put the rotor on, its a warp 9 from procycle. All good but the rotor bolts hit the relocation bracket which required some filing to fix. Also the magnetic pick up bolt for the Vapor needed turning down on the lathe and then the pickup had to be relocated. I will email procycle and tell them as the Warp 9 rotors are new to the market I think. Mind you the bike stops now:eek5: can't wait to test it out in anger tomorrow. Fitted the bar risers too, no issue with cables.

[Woodman]

:motu:


even with all this new shit on, it will still drown in puddles :whistle:



It was a raging torrent, somewhat reminiscent of the Grand Canyon from memory.

Just in case there is some misconceptions about this incident.:wacko:

[_Shrek_]

It was a raging torrent, somewhat reminiscent of the Grand Canyon from memory.

Just in case there is some misconceptions about this incident.:wacko:

:scratch: maybe you should have water wings on that list of farkles.... :corn:

[NordieBoy]

Mind you the bike stops now:eek5: can't wait to test it out in anger tomorrow. Fitted the bar risers too, no issue with cables.

It'd be a good test up Hira tomorrow.

Or even water crossing testing up the Wairoa Right Branch...

[Woodman]

It'd be a good test up Hira tomorrow.

Or even water crossing testing up the Wairoa Right Branch...

Just went for a wee test ride. Ended up following that river from that bridge just past the back of Brightwater and ended up at the bridge by trass valley road. could have gone further but was knackered. Millions of river crossings, one engine splutteringly deep but more throttle worked. Fell off once on the slippery rocks which unbeknownst to me loosened the fork draining bung getting oil all over my new rotor and pads:(. Its a great wee ride and presumably only possible when its as dry as it is at the moment.







Oh and I lost my new tank valve thing:mad::mad:

[NordieBoy]

All bike shops have the one way valves.
You need to lock wire them on and have a decent tube length as bashing the tank with your knees can create enough pressure to pop them off.

I used to always find mine beside the bike with a full tank and it sitting in the sun.

[NordieBoy]

You should be able to get from the Appleby Bridge to your start point to warm up for the millions of crossings.

[Woodman]

Ok, of the farkles that I fitted this weekend the one that is head and shoulders above the rest is the big brake upgrade and the Dynojet kit.:wacko:

Fitted the Dynojet kit this arvo, used stage 2 with 150 main jet and circlip on 4th groove and put in the tee handled mixture screw. Fully expected to have to have a few goes at getting it right, but the bike just started right up and idled away nicely and it even sounded different. Set the mixture screw and headed out for a ride. The bottom end that I liked is still there and the top doesn't run out as soon any more, but the best thing is the throttle response. Now anyone with a KLR will know that the throttle response is a bit sluggish, especially on slow gravel corners when you want a bit of oomph to get you going and its very rarely there. Not any more, its like a different bike:eek5:

Big brake upgrade works brilliant now too, now that the fork oil has burnt off.

Also fitted a Powermadd bar riser which has raise the bars 2 inches and pushed forward an inch or so. First time i have had the bars that high and once got used to its lovely, especially standing.

Hmmm what next??

[Box'a'bits]

I know where you may soon be able to source a recluse clutch kit cheap...:rolleyes:

[Howie]

You’re doing well with the farkles Woodman. I got down the shed yesterday and decided to tidy it first, 4 hours later the shed was looking better.

Started on the doohicky this morning, opened up the left side and found the doo and the spring had broken. Found the smaller bit of the doo in the sump with a flexible magnet, took a while to get it out. Couldn’t find the missing bit of spring anywhere that was easily accessible

[Woodman]

You’re doing well with the farkles Woodman. I got down the shed yesterday and decided to tidy it first, 4 hours later the shed was looking better.

Started on the doohicky this morning, opened up the left side and found the doo and the spring had broken. Found the smaller bit of the doo in the sump with a flexible magnet, took a while to get it out. Couldn’t find the missing bit of spring anywhere that was easily accessible

Bloody doohickeys, mine just had a broken spring.

[Crim]

Also fitted a Powermadd bar riser which has raise the bars 2 inches and pushed forward an inch or so. First time i have had the bars that high and once got used to its lovely, especially standing.


were all your cables long enough?

can't believe you can farkle perfection this much??

[Woodman]

were all your cables long enough?

can't believe you can farkle perfection this much??

Yea cables were heaps long enough. No issues at all except I want to push the bar riser further forward but the key gets in the way. Will either cut a relief in the bar riser or cut the top part of the key in half.

[GPS MAN]

I know where you may soon be able to source a recluse clutch kit cheap...:rolleyes:


Hey Steve ~ What's the deal? Mark parting out the KLR???

[Padmei]

Hey Steve ~ What's the deal? Mark parting out the KLR???

Check out adv rider wade

[pete376403]

Bloody doohickeys, mine just had a broken spring.

Had a look at mine recently, the doo was ok (gen II) but the spring was far too long, and if it was the correct length, would put far too much tension on the chain, so I've replaced it with one a bit shorter and a bit weaker.

Still no closer to the 685 piston

[Howie]

Had a look at mine recently, the doo was ok (gen II) but the spring was far too long, and if it was the correct length, would put far too much tension on the chain, so I've replaced it with one a bit shorter and a bit weaker.

Still no closer to the 685 piston

I installed the torsion spring, which des seem to put a reasonable amount of tension on the chain, hopefully they have worked it out correctly!!

[pete376403]

The Gen IIs (I suppose the Gen Is are the same) have rubber either side of the crank balancer chain crank. As far as I can tell the side plates of the chain bear on this. (noise or vibration damping, maybe?) Anyway, my theory is if the chain is over tensioned by the doo spring all its going to do is force the chain to cut into the rubber, effectively loosening the chain tension. Adjust the doo and it forces the chain onto the rubber some more. While filling up the oil with bits of hard rubber - these end up in the strainer under the clutch.

The spring I put in was adequate to tension the chain without over doing it. I guess time will tell.

I also advanced the exhaust cam one tooth (klr650.net, eagle mikes MC mod)

(PS Howie - I've still got that low profile drain plug if you want it)

[Woodman]

I also advanced the exhaust cam one tooth (klr650.net, eagle mikes MC mod)



Just read up on this, bloody good cheap (well free) mod with a real noticeable difference apparently. Will do it shortly myself. Have you taken it for a ride yet?

[pete376403]

Going to try and get out for a wee blat tomorrow

[Howie]

(PS Howie - I've still got that low profile drain plug if you want it)

yep sorry I keep forgetting about that. I can call in sometime this weekend if your around. i think I still have your address somewhere.

[Woodman]

Going to try and get out for a wee blat tomorrow

Done mine this arvo, then went for a 1/2 hour hoon. Not sure if there is any noticeable difference. How'd yours go?

[pete376403]

Got sidetracked, ride never happened. Maybe tomorrow.

Also EagleMike says that the gen IIs had the cam timing retarded for emissions reasons, so this mod would be more effective on II (which I have) than a I (which I believe you have).

Leaving the airbox door off apparently makes quite a difference, which could be ok for a bike that never goes off the highway.

If I can notice any difference I'll be happy.

[Woodman]

Changed my mind about the exhaust cam mod after todays ride. Goes like a rocket (well maybe a well thrown javelin) especially between about 3k-5k. No loss anywhere else so I won't change it back

Edit, just worked out my kilometerage after todays ride and i wasn't caning it. 15.5km/l is a bit less than prior to the jetting mods last week. Might try replacing the 150 main with the 140 and see what happens. Bugger cos its going so well.

[pete376403]

I went for a wee ride, I think there's an appreciable difference - not wheelie-in-third-gear power but seems just a bit perkier.

[Normlas]

Hi All,
yesterday I came back from an awesome 4 week, 7500 km tour of the South Island, a dream trip including; Molesworth station, Rainbow Road, Dansys Pass, Old Dunstan Road, Nevis Trail, Skipper Canyon and a few other fantastic gravel rides, camping wild and living free off the back of my mildly farkled '08 KLR. No dramas other than a new rear tyre in Greymouth and a new chain in Christchurch, but all went great.

About 50km short of home, on the Southern near Manurewa, I hear a loud clicking noise, look down and see my left foot is covered in oil and the engine stopped pretty much immediately, I coast to the side of the motorway and watch the oil pour out of my poor wee girl :( pieces of engine casing on the ground........

Closer inspection shows a 3cm hole on the top of the engine case just behind where the cylinder meets the main engine body - see pics. AA to the rescue.

I am gutted about such a crap end to such an awesome adventure, she's booked into the shop for next week but looks pretty terminal to me....... anyone got a spare engine for an '08?

[pete376403]

When I read your post I immediately thought "doohickey" but that hole is in the wrong place. If it was a DR650 thats about where third gear or parts thereof would make an appearance.

Where you keeping an eye on the oil level during the trip?

Keep us informed of what the shop finds.

[Owl]

yesterday I came back from an awesome 4 week, 7500 km tour of the South Island

Sucks about your engine dude!:(

Don't suppose you were traveling through Hunterville yesterday with two others?

[Normlas]

Sucks about your engine dude!:(

Don't suppose you were traveling through Hunterville yesterday with two others?

Nope, had camped out in the Urewera's and came back via Murupara and Cambridge yesterday, this was a solo run, I even managed to do a very low speed drop that morning turning out from the campsite and cracked/scratched the front fairings - yesterday was really not my day :( (especially after all that incident free gravel I'd just done! )


Will get some vids up at some stage, had a gopro and have 100gig of footage from all those tracks.

Pic is somewhere on the Nevis

[Padmei]

Unusual place to be broken there, bad luck my friend. Still you did have a bloody good ride. Up till a year agop I did have some spare engine cases for a KLR

[Woodman]

Bugger...Looks like a gearbox issue to me.

[Normlas]

When I read your post I immediately thought "doohickey" but that hole is in the wrong place. If it was a DR650 thats about where third gear or parts thereof would make an appearance.

Where you keeping an eye on the oil level during the trip?

Keep us informed of what the shop finds.

I will Pete, and the racks worked great, as did the $90 ABS pannier boxes from Jaycar !

But seriously, if anyone knows of an engine for an '08, let me know.

Attached pics of wild camp near the end of Skipper's Canyon and somewhere along the old Dunstan Rd

I had just topped up the oil that morning, she burns a bit still, about 200-300ml per 1000km, depending on revs, over 5500rpm she burns (burned) more.

[_Shrek_]

Pic is somewhere on the Nevis

just as well it didn't happen here, me & Off-spring would have had to come & get you & do a bit of spotting on the way back :clap:

[pete376403]

You're not restricted to an '08 (or later) engine - AFAIK the bottom end is pretty much unchanged all the way through. (The cylinder did change in the later engines)
Would also be worth discussing this with kawasaki nz - even though its out of warranty, you shouldn't be expecting (whatevers happened but looks pretty major) this early in its life. Consumer guarantee act may apply.

[Woodman]

just as well it didn't happen here, me & Off-spring would have had to come & get you & do a bit of spotting on the way back :clap:

You do mean spotlighting don't you?

[_Shrek_]

You do mean spotlighting don't you?

:blip: :msn-wink:

[Normlas]

Friend of mine posted it on klr650net for some further advice;

linky (http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=110334)

Will keep you updated, am still in mourning...... :(

[888]

Right, I've got all the bits from Happy Trails to do my doo- I'm looking for someone in the Hamilton area who can help me install it. Yeah, I know...it is easy to do. But I suck at mechanical thangs, sure- i can change tires and oil but that's about it. I've got the tools, torque wrench, and parts...who wants to be rewarded with a couple of boxes of beer to help me out? As long as you are around Hams I'll drive to your location with all the bits (beer strapped on back)....lemme know if you are interested, I don't want to have the stealerships do this.:wacko:

[pete376403]

Friend of mine posted it on klr650net for some further advice;

linky (http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=110334)

Will keep you updated, am still in mourning...... :(

Comments on KLR650.net suggest that welding the cases is not a good idea - obviously the cause of the problem needs to be found and rectified, but I'd have no hesitation in getting the cses welded. Years ago I had a CB750 that wrapped the chain around the front sprocket and smashed the cases pretty badly. Replacement cases were not an option. I got local hot rod builder and metal working magician Graham Berry to weld and patch the cases and they cleaned up like new.

I also had a Weslake speedway engine which had split the flywheels and pushed the left flywheel right through the case and onto the track. It welded up ok too.

Balancer shaft should be ok (if thats in fact what it is), new bearings and (maybe) chain and you should be good to go.

[Eddieb]

Spare parts, busted motor but all there otherwise. $1500 ono

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-575638746.htm

http://images.trademe.co.nz/photoserver/full/260404450.jpg

[wee pirate]

Hey KLR peoples, I wanting to know what rear tyre you've run and got the most mileage out of. And also I'd like to upgrade the rear spring to a heavier. Any one got any ideas on what would fit and where to find. Thank KLR peoples

[Woodman]

Hey KLR peoples, I wanting to know what rear tyre you've run and got the most mileage out of. And also I'd like to upgrade the rear spring to a heavier. Any one got any ideas on what would fit and where to find. Thank KLR peoples

These guys do springs for KLRS. http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/Product_Pages/klrprod2.html
Thought about it, but got a Ricor IAS instead= friggen amazing, although lost a lot of rear wheel steering ability which is the only downside. Must try harder.

As for rear tyres, they all seem to only last 4000kms maximum, but here is my experience and thoughts.

Michelin T63. Road legal Knobbly, very good grip on and off road, but don't last long. 3000kms max.
Mitas E09. Road legal knobbly, good grip off road, but has poor side grip, so be wary when traversing slopes. Upside is that they are hilarious on gravel corners. Good on road. Don't last long 3500kms max.
Pirelli MT21. Road legal knobbly. quite like them, good grip on and off road. last ok. 3500kms. best value road legal knob IMHO.
Shinko 244. Weird when new, weird when worn right down. OK between that, pretty good grip. 4000kms max.
Fullbore M41. Great on road and surprisingly good off road. Almost a road tyre. 5000kms max.

Others experience may be different as tyre performance has a lot to do with rider input and terrain.

[pete376403]

Hey KLR peoples, I wanting to know what rear tyre you've run and got the most mileage out of. And also I'd like to upgrade the rear spring to a heavier. Any one got any ideas on what would fit and where to find. Thank KLR peoples

Shinko 705, Metzler Sahara worked ok for me.
There is a Pirelli MT60 on the back at present and it's lasted remarkably well considering its only a 110/90

[Woodman]

:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:


just when you think that there isn't any more shit that can be bolted to a KLR comes this http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/parts_frames.html.

pain in the ass them bringing this out just I have just fitted a dynojet kit and the bike is running like a dream. Apparently the Mikuni carb gives it real good stonk off the bottom end.


Must resist.:pinch::sweatdrop

[Owl]

Apparently the Mikuni carb gives it real good stonk off the bottom end.

Aren't those things like 30 something hp? Only thing it's likely to stomp is a piece of wet clay.:rolleyes:

[Howie]

:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:


just when you think that there isn't any more shit that can be bolted to a KLR comes this http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/parts_frames.html.

pain in the ass them bringing this out just I have just fitted a dynojet kit and the bike is running like a dream. Apparently the Mikuni carb gives it real good stonk off the bottom end.


Must resist.:pinch::sweatdrop

That looks interesting!! Any write ups about them on any of the KLR forums?

[Woodman]

Aren't those things like 30 something hp? Only thing it's likely to stomp is a piece of wet clay.:rolleyes:

:not: Aaaah such wit.:yawn:



That looks interesting!! Any write ups about them on any of the KLR forums?

Too new, only came to market a few days ago as far as I can tell.

[pete376403]

When I was riding speedway bikes i had a jawa 2v with a 36mm DellOrto (factory) - went ok. I swapped that for a 38mm round slide Mikuni and the difference was like night and day - easier starting, no hesitation or flat spots, would even idle (sort of). Probably got better fuel economy, too

[chopperT]

@ wee pirate:

Springs are available from all over as mentioned above. In NZ, Cardwell Racing can supply Eibach springs in 9" x 2.25" for the KLR. You will need to figure out your required rate. I'm 120kg dressed to ride, and a 450lb/in spring puts me at 30% sag at max preload, (yep shoulda bought a 500!).

As for tyres, theres a thread in itself. For me Michelin T65 Sirac gave 14000km, Mitas E07 10000km, but if you keep it spinning on gravel expect much less.

[pete376403]

ADV rider (I think) has a thread on "which bike is best for the zombie apocalypse"

naturally KLRs are the preferred option
Heres proof

[pete376403]

@ wee pirate:
As for tyres, theres a thread in itself. For me Michelin T65 Sirac gave 14000km, Mitas E07 10000km, but if you keep it spinning on gravel expect much less.

Wow, youre easy on tyres. I had a Sirac, and it was good, but i didn't get anywhere near 14000. Is that commutng only?

[Woodman]

Wow, youre easy on tyres. I had a Sirac, and it was good, but i didn't get anywhere near 14000. Is that commutng only?

Maybe his front and back wheels do the same kilometerararage ?

[chopperT]

Thats a 450km a week commute, plus gravel rides on weekends. So pretty easy miles really, (though those E07s went over the Motu a couple of times). I think I'd be poor if I could only get 4000km from a tire! It'd be like a new one every 8 weeks.
After a good gravel ride you can see the wear, so if thats what you do for 4000km it's completely realistic.

[wee pirate]

@ wee pirate:

Springs are available from all over as mentioned above. In NZ, Cardwell Racing can supply Eibach springs in 9" x 2.25" for the KLR. You will need to figure out your required rate. I'm 120kg dressed to ride, and a 450lb/in spring puts me at 30% sag at max preload, (yep shoulda bought a 500!).

As for tyres, theres a thread in itself. For me Michelin T65 Sirac gave 14000km, Mitas E07 10000km, but if you keep it spinning on gravel expect much less.

Thank you for the info Chopper - you did better on the E07 than me. I only got about 8500km, must be that gravel. Can you remember how much the spring cost? I'm guessing that Cardwell will help me work out best spring rate for me. Also you just changed spring and kept the original shock?

[pete376403]

I went to a presentation last night by the two riders from http://2ridetheworld.com/ - over (nearly) the past 10 years Simon and Lisa have been on a continuous 425,000 km ride around the planet on 1150 and 650 BMWs.

They used pretty much exclusivley TKC80s. One of the questions was "how many tyres so far?" and the answer was surprisingly few. Lisa on the 650 got over 12000km from one.

Perhaps non-aggresive riding has it's advantages

[Woodman]

Just nipped down to the shed and fitted the contents of a parcel that arrived today from Procycle (yay more stickers).

Superbrace fork brace and progressive fork springs. Used a couple of imperial sockets to set the preload. Perfect fit, the new springs are a hell of a lot longer than the old ones. also got a billet choke cable nut cos the plastic one was on its last legs.

will report on how the brace and springs work later.

That's the end of any farkles for this bike.

[NordieBoy]

Why progressive springs?

[Woodman]

Why progressive springs?

Wanted a bit of comfort, and if I had just got 30% stiffer which is what is recommended for aggressive riders, it would have been all bouncy on the road. Progressive just seemed a better compromise for a dp bike. The originals used to bottom out constantly, and the wallowy front has been accentuated since the IAS rear shocky with the stiffest spring available was fitted.

I will mess around with spacers and oil level if needed.
Probly should have just used your USD front end.

[NordieBoy]

Is that 30% for stock damping or taking into account emulators/Intiminators?

[NordieBoy]

The DR Intiminators were designed to work with the stock progressives.

[chopperT]

Wee pirate, Cardwells are an NZ agent for Eibach, primarily speedway stuff, so you have to figure your own rate.

Use the rate calculator on the Racetech suspension website. It lists the KLR.

Price was about the same as the landed US price, so I decided to support the local guys, around $160 IIRC.

Stock shock with the new spring. There seems to be enough damping adjustment on the stocker to handle the increased rate.

[pete376403]

Anyone got a gen II plastic "bashplate" they want to be rid of? My one has been smashed (surprised?) and I want an intact one to use as a pattern for something a bit stronger ( paper-mache, perhaps)

[Crim]

sorry - but have got a gen I one and centrestand if anyone is interested

[pete376403]

sorry - but have got a gen I one and centrestand if anyone is interested
How much for the bashplate? (Not too much diff between gen 1 and 2 frames, so should fit)

[Odakyu-sen]

Anyone got a gen II plastic "bashplate" they want to be rid of? My one has been smashed (surprised?) and I want an intact one to use as a pattern for something a bit stronger ( paper-mache, perhaps)

Whereabouts in Auckland are you? I won't be taking my KLR out that much while I wait for a new fuel tank (under warranty). What are you planning to fabricate and how much will one cost? (I am thinking of replacing my plastic bashplate too.)

[Crim]

How much for the bashplate? (Not too much diff between gen 1 and 2 frames, so should fit)

Nothing, Nada, Zip or a beer if we ever meet, (quite surprised the missus hasn't biffed it during one of her cleaning frenzies), if you have got someone who is heading your way I can give it to them or can post it if you PM me your address

[pete376403]

Whereabouts in Auckland are you? I won't be taking my KLR out that much while I wait for a new fuel tank (under warranty). What are you planning to fabricate and how much will one cost? (I am thinking of replacing my plastic bashplate too.)

Not completely sure at this stage. I briefly thought of carbon fibre with expanded mesh reinforcing, but more likely to be aluminium. I have access to all the engineering equipment i could ever need (and even more important, people who know who to use it properly)

What I'd like is a close replica of the standard one, but extending further back. What I'll end up with maybe something else again.

I'm in Wellington.

[chopperT]

Have you seen the skid plates from these guys?

http://jnsengineering.com/products-page/2008-2013-klr650/2008-2012-klr650-skid-plate-sw-motech-compatible/

I bought one, and I have to say it is a quality piece of kit. I was keen to make something, but time/materials for a one-off didn't seem to stack up.

[pete376403]

Thats nice work. What was the landed cost?
I'd like to build my own as I've got the time, got the materials, but got more important things to spend money on

[chopperT]

The price worked out at NZ$240 at my door. The freight charge was very reasonable for such a large box.

Laser cut, CNC folded, pressed mounting bosses, and powdercoated. I couldn't have built it for that.

Good luck with your project, but isn't CF a little bit bling for a KLR:)

[NordieBoy]

Good luck with your project, but isn't CF a little bit bling for a KLR:)

Nothing a rattle can of paint won't fix.