KLR riders out there

[Moki]

Been blowing some time on the net last weekend and followed a couple of threads on the (in)famous Doohickey setup for (>) 2008. Apparently, the doo has been improved somehat but the spring is shit and can lose tension or break altogether when the bike's young. One example showed a complete lack of tension at full adjustment at 5000 miles; the other was similar at just under 10K miles.

Anyway, I've decided to sort this using the new torsion spring, but before I order one I was wondering if anyone has the rotor puller and funky wrench I can borrow? I'd like to try not to buy if I can avoid it as I'm a tightwad at the moment.

Cheers
Moki

[Padmei]

went for my 12k service the other week & the spring was shot. Luckily Woodman had an Eagle mike one he lent me. The dealer did it under warantee. The doo loks pretty good compared to earlier one. I think a torsion spring is all that is needed.

BTW Woodman your doo should arrive sometime this year... It has cleared customs - Australia!! Cos as you know New Zealand is a part of New South Wales:(

[Moki]

went for my 12k service the other week & the spring was shot. Luckily Woodman had an Eagle mike one he lent me. The dealer did it under warantee. The doo loks pretty good compared to earlier one. I think a torsion spring is all that is needed.

BTW Woodman your doo should arrive sometime this year... It has cleared customs - Australia!! Cos as you know New Zealand is a part of New South Wales:(


Shit! I'm at 12k now....

How did you know the spring was shot without tearing the case apart? No spring tension to pickup the slack when trying to adjust it - or was it chain clatter after "adjusting" it?

[Padmei]

shit load of noise coming from that area. Mech at the serrvice said it was prob gone. one of the sales guys has one too so has a vested interest in issues of mine as mine has higher K's.

My front pads were worn too but KawaNZ had no front pads in stock so I bought some from the States.

BTW Woodman the eagle mike with torsion spring turned up today so we'll have to catch up & compare my old one with the new one.

[Padmei]

Well, It is a good question.

Which one?

[Woodman]

shit load of noise coming from that area. Mech at the serrvice said it was prob gone. one of the sales guys has one too so has a vested interest in issues of mine as mine has higher K's.

My front pads were worn too but KawaNZ had no front pads in stock so I bought some from the States.

BTW Woodman the eagle mike with torsion spring turned up today so we'll have to catch up & compare my old one with the new one.

Cool would be interesting to see the two doos. will have to get motivated and do the doo now, so if anyone does have the puller etc like Moki says i would be interested in maybe borrowing it too to do the doo.
Cannot believe Kawa nz had no front pads in the country.

[pete376403]

shit load of noise coming from that area. Mech at the serrvice said it was prob gone. one of the sales guys has one too so has a vested interest in issues of mine as mine has higher K's.

My front pads were worn too but KawaNZ had no front pads in stock so I bought some from the States.

BTW Woodman the eagle mike with torsion spring turned up today so we'll have to catch up & compare my old one with the new one.

The front pads of my KLR were gone at 12k - I bought replacements at Supercheap. They didn't list KLR on the pack but just took one of the old pads in and eyeballed them. IIRC they might have been for Yamaha XT750?

After the Brass it's up to 15k5 and used about 4 litres of oil for the trip - 've been back to Motorad to advise that there is another warranty claim coming up. Warranty expires next month. The alternative will be get the 685 piston kit like MarkS has

Also I wonder about if applying too much tension to the doo does more harm than good - I understand the sprocket has rubber inserts that the chain side plates run against. Too much tension might destroy that rubber and lead to the chain getting loose and noisy again. I can't see the reason for a great deal of tension on the chain, it's only driving the balancer after all.

[Woodman]

Wonder if anyone has removed / disconnected the balance shaft on a klr.

What else does it drive?

Have modified heaps of mitsis to run without balance shafts and they went fine. I know they are 4 versus 1 cylinder, but a 4 still has all pistons stop at the top and bottom of each stroke and therefore the crank quickly speeding up then slowing down same as a single, and the balance shafts are there to remove that shock effect.

HHmmm just rambling and don't know the klr internals real well, and anyway it might get that cool KTM vibratery thing going on that makes the front wheel jump around at idle.:banana:

[Moki]

I think I'll just go ahead and order in the complete kit (with tools). Probably good to have anyway.

Anyone in the Lower N. Island feel like getting together and having a "Doo" day? It'd be interesting to have a few to do and see what's found.

[pete376403]

Wonder if anyone has removed / disconnected the balance shaft on a klr.

What else does it drive?

Have modified heaps of mitsis to run without balance shafts and they went fine. I know they are 4 versus 1 cylinder, but a 4 still has all pistons stop at the top and bottom of each stroke and therefore the crank quickly speeding up then slowing down same as a single, and the balance shafts are there to remove that shock effect.

HHmmm just rambling and don't know the klr internals real well, and anyway it might get that cool KTM vibratery thing going on that makes the front wheel jump around at idle.:banana:

I think the KLR would shake like a dog shitting a length of chain with the balancer disconnected. At least a four cyl has a pair of pistons going down to help offset the pair going up. Also the balancer shafts in a four compensate for the different piston speed as a crank rotates, ie when the crank big end is half way between top and bottom dead centres (ie at 90 and 270 degrees), the piston is NOT exactly half way through its stroke. Therefore the piston has to travel faster when the crank goes from 270 - TDC - 90 degrees, than when it goes from 90 - BDC - 270. More noticable with long rods. The only way to avoid this would be to have rods exactly the same lenth as the stroke, which is impossible if you want to attach a piston to something

[Moki]

Righto. Managed to locate a rotor puller and wrench from the same person I sold mine to a while ago (don't ask, it's a long story...) - thanks Stu (RedKLR650.);)

Eagle Milke is pretty hard to contact at the moment so may have to order his kit elswhere. Anyone else need a torsion spring?

[Padmei]

I don't think you can order one direct from Eagle mIke at least I couldn't find how to. I ended up getting one from TPI which is one of his recommended retailers.

The doo cost $39.95, torsion spring $13.95 & the shipping a f..ing $30.00. All those prices are in US. They could have fit into half an envelope but had to come in a box -priority mail via Australia!!

At least the dealer replaced the doo for me for nothing.

Woodman I'm sure if you talked to Filco they would lend you a puller etc for the weekend ( tell them I sent you:wacko:)

[Moki]

I don't think you can order one direct from Eagle mIke at least I couldn't find how to. I ended up getting one from TPI which is one of his recommended retailers.

The doo cost $39.95, torsion spring $13.95 & the shipping a f..ing $30.00. All those prices are in US. They could have fit into half an envelope but had to come in a box -priority mail via Australia!!

At least the dealer replaced the doo for me for nothing.

Woodman I'm sure if you talked to Filco they would lend you a puller etc for the weekend ( tell them I sent you:wacko:)

I bribe family in the states to forward stuff cheaply. :yes: Probably costs me more keeping them stocked up with pineapple lumps when I visit, but somehow it it feels like everyone gains...except for UPS and USPS.

[marks]

The front pads of my KLR were gone at 12k

After the Brass it's up to 15k5 and used about 4 litres of oil for the trip - 've been back to Motorad to advise that there is another warranty claim coming up. Warranty expires next month. The alternative will be get the 685 piston kit like MarkS has

you bastards must be hard on your brakes - at 17k my front pads have about 2mm left on them

sorry to hear about your oil consumption Pete - high speed (above 5k) runs certainley made 'ol greeney' drink oil like a 2 stroke.

I've done 6k since I got my black one and used about 200ml-400ml oil -
685 certainly solves the problem

[MXNUT]

Have modified heaps of mitsis to run without balance shafts and they went fine. I know they are 4 versus 1 cylinder, but a 4 still has all pistons stop at the top and bottom of each stroke and therefore the crank quickly speeding up then slowing down same as a single, and the balance shafts are there to remove that shock effect.

Worked for Mitsi dealer for 15 years and have seen 2 different lancer EVO engines that had the balance shafts removed, both of them sheared all the flywheel bolts off in the end of the crank due to excessive primary vibration :Oops:- so not a good idea to remove any factory fitted balancer system :crazy:

[Woodman]

Worked for Mitsi dealer for 15 years and have seen 2 different lancer EVO engines that had the balance shafts removed, both of them sheared all the flywheel bolts off in the end of the crank due to excessive primary vibration :Oops:- so not a good idea to remove any factory fitted balancer system :crazy:

Interestin, but I must admit the ones I did were not high hp engines only standard 4g63 and 4d56 engines.

Apparently the waterpump is driven off the klr balancer so its a no go anyway.

[NordieBoy]

Worked for Mitsi dealer for 15 years and have seen 2 different lancer EVO engines that had the balance shafts removed, both of them sheared all the flywheel bolts off in the end of the crank due to excessive primary vibration :Oops:- so not a good idea to remove any factory fitted balancer system :crazy:

The 79-82 XR250/500 engines could run without the balancers.

Turned them into very revvy little beasts.
You would end up not being able to see straight after a ride though...

[pete376403]

you bastards must be hard on your brakes - at 17k my front pads have about 2mm left on them

sorry to hear about your oil consumption Pete - high speed (above 5k) runs certainley made 'ol greeney' drink oil like a 2 stroke.

I've done 6k since I got my black one and used about 200ml-400ml oil -
685 certainly solves the problem
I'm going to suggest the following to Motorad and see what they think:(found on ADVrider)
"Before I threw in the towel on the KLR, I'd try one simple at home application...an automotive PCV valve in the breather hose from the engine to the airbox. I've posted this fix a couple of times before on this forum and have posted a couple of pics of the final product. It's easy and cheap.

The idea is that the KLR has crankcase pressure issues at higher rpms. The introduction of a PCV valve in the breather hose induces a slight vacuum or at least a more neutral crankcase pressure at these higher rpms. I've had 4 KLR 600/650s over the years. Both 650's were fairly heavy oil consumers at cruising speeds of 5000 rpm or more and in cases where lots of revs were applied while riding off road. This was not a compression issue. It was an oil control issue, probably ring related. That may sound odd, but if the engine has some high or unusual crankcase pressure characteristics at certain points in its operation, the oil can be pushed past the oil and compression rings without producing visible smoke or fouled plugs.

I'm no engineer by any means. Over on KLR World, some very knowledgeable folk came up with this concept. One of them was KLRCary who worked for Schnitz Racing...same guy who helped develop the 685/705 big bore KLR kit. Cary was recently killed in a motorcycle accident. I was skeptical of this idea, but for less than $15 it was worth a try. I saved my OEM breather hose and built mine out of rubber elbows and heater hose from my local auto parts store...a cleaner application IMO. I also used a solid steel PCV valve that fits within my hose setup instead of the stamped model used in the original setup they made, which can apparently be a bit noisy. They've also come up with a reasonably priced Mercedes one-way valve now that might be even better. I'd suggest going to KLR World to read the multi-page writeup on this. It excellently explains the dynamics of the whole application. I have a lay person's theory that one problem with the stock setup is the ridiculously small airbox inlet hole for the OEM breather hose. The other eye-opener was understanding the concept of inducing vacuum into the crankcase of high performance engines and the results on both performance and oil control. While the KLR650 is hardly your 4-second NHRA beast, the concept may have some application to many internal combustion engines...especially those with oil consumption and crankcase pressure issues.

What happened after I installed mine?...at least 2/3 less oil consumption under all conditions. Yes...at least 2/3. It might be even a little more, but I want to remain conservative on this and not spout some kind of unrealistic expectation by others. This experiment will take less than $15 worth of parts and doesn't require the removal of the airbox or carb. The hardest part is opening up the breather inlet hole on the airbox, but some very clever methods were developed by some of the members on KLR World. This is one mod that is cheap, easy, and worth a try."

[Padmei]

I think Woodamn has done the PCV

[marks]

the one on mine is a bit noisy at idle but that's hardly a big issue - its not exactly a stealth machine.

I also notice on both klrs that the air filter has 'splooge'' on the air filter by the crank case breather entry point on the air box. Much less on the 685 but still noticeable.

if your 'fixed' one is giving problems Pete - I hope the guy I sold my 'fixed' one to is getting on ok.

[NordieBoy]

I think Woodamn has done the PCV

Post Crash Version?

[warewolf]

Cannot believe Kawa nz had no front pads in the country.Why not? They are probably so prohibitively priced or underperforming that everybody buys aftermarket, so no point in having (m)any in stock.

[warewolf]

Wonder if anyone has removed / disconnected the balance shaft on a klr.
...
HHmmm just rambling and don't know the klr internals real well, and anyway it might get that cool KTM vibratery thing going on that makes the front wheel jump around at idle.:banana:To ramble a bit further, how many balancers does the KLR have? The LC4 only has one. My Triumph triple only had one (primary and secondary balanced 120 degree crank, with a rocking couple along its length), but the fours had a second.

If there are two, then removing balance weight from the balancer so it was left to drive the water pump may not add as much vibration as first thought. Although I would think that if the doo is suspect, then adding vibration won't help it. I agree that too much tension is not necessarily a good thing, and could cause premature wear.

[clint640]

...and anyway it might get that cool KTM vibratery thing going on that makes the front wheel jump around at idle.:banana:

It might just be easier to go buy a KTM :Pokey:

Then you won't have to worry about doohickies or high oil consumption at all :niceone: :devil2:

Although I am getting a little concerned about the oil usage of my 640, I'm having to give it a 200ml top up between services now & the damn things only done 75 000 km :( :lol:

Clint

[Padmei]

To ramble a bit further, how many balancers does the KLR have? .

Mine has only one - ME.

Sometimes it makes rattling noises, belches fumes, vibrates rapidly over uneven terrain & has been known to just say "F..k this for a game of soldiers" & leave brown fluids over the rear tyre.

[Woodman]

I think Woodamn has done the PCV

No I haven't done it but I have a pcv valve somewhere in the shed ready to do it.
vacuum in the crankcas does help with horsepower, it is a good side effect of dry sump pumps used in a lot of race and drag engines, They use up to 5 stage pumps that create so much vacuum that some guys fit the seals backwards.
Actually thought that the oil under pressure went out through the breather and got fed back through the engine.
Mine uses a bit but I also suspect that it finds its own level but am too scared to prove this point so keep putting oil in.

[marks]

It might just be easier to go buy a KTM :Pokey:

Then you won't have to worry about doohickies or high oil consumption at all :niceone: :devil2:

Although I am getting a little concerned about the oil usage of my 640, I'm having to give it a 200ml top up between services now & the damn things only done 75 000 km :( :lol:

Clint

one day, young man, you'll be old enough to appreciate a KLR

doohickies and such add character - like beauty spots

actually a 690 adventure would be the only bike that could seriously temp me from a klr - I'm happy to wait a couple of years and see how they pan out (and save - save - save - I'm sure they'll be near $20k)

[warewolf]

Although I am getting a little concerned about the oil usage of my 640, I'm having to give it a 200ml top up between services now & the damn things only done 75 000 km :( :lol:one day, young man, you'll be old enough to appreciate a KLR One day soon his 640'll be old enough to appreciate a KLR... :clap:

[pete376403]

Wonder if KTM will still be building bikes in 20years, let alone basically the same model...

[warewolf]

Sure they'll be building bikes in 20 years. They've been building bikes since 1953 - nearly a decade longer than Kawasaki.

The LC4's been around for 15 years, but they had the sense to tweak it as the years went by. Heck KTM don't even wait for the next 'model year' to implement changes, the bikes steadily evolve continuously. I like that approach better, somehow.

[Woodman]

Sure they'll be building bikes in 20 years. They've been building bikes since 1953 - nearly a decade longer than Kawasaki.

The LC4's been around for 15 years, but they had the sense to tweak it as the years went by. Heck KTM don't even wait for the next 'model year' to implement changes, the bikes steadily evolve continuously. I like that approach better, somehow.

Evolution is great, but is a concept that the kawaski guys don't quite grasp all that well. Sure the bike is reliable, and is a true do it all kinda bike but why did they not fix things like the doohickey and footpeg mounts and the hopeless crash protection of the radiator . They have had 20 years or so, or even maybe have a kawasaki line of add ons and make some extra $. I spose the KLR must be a cash cow for them so why mess with it. Just been in the shed fixing some of the above mentioned. Hooray for cable ties and loctite and spare bolts.

[marks]

Evolution is great, but is a concept that the kawaski guys don't quite grasp all that well. Sure the bike is reliable, and is a true do it all kinda bike but why did they not fix things like the doohickey and footpeg mounts and the hopeless crash protection of the radiator . They have had 20 years or so, or even maybe have a kawasaki line of add ons and make some extra $. I spose the KLR must be a cash cow for them so why mess with it. Just been in the shed fixing some of the above mentioned. Hooray for cable ties and loctite and spare bolts.

had you had trouble with footpeg bolts as well?

[Woodman]

had you had trouble with footpeg bolts as well?

Not sure about how they are mounted on 08 and above, but the quality of the bit welded to the frame where the threads are is abismal. The whole bit wants welding on with a good bead top and bottom the entire length, and then some helicoils put in . Or better still angle grind the whole lot off and make a decent one.

They are really startin to bother me considering the abuse they get and the forces on those crappy bolts held in with only 4 threads when I belly or bottom the beast must be pretty high.

[marks]

Not sure about how they are mounted on 08 and above, but the quality of the bit welded to the frame where the threads are is abismal. The whole bit wants welding on with a good bead top and bottom the entire length, and then some helicoils put in . Or better still angle grind the whole lot off and make a decent one.

They are really startin to bother me considering the abuse they get and the forces on those crappy bolts held in with only 4 threads when I belly or bottom the beast must be pretty high.

On mine - those 4 pathetic bolts support footpegs, engine guards and center stand - a disaster waiting to happen

[NordieBoy]

On mine - those 4 pathetic bolts support footpegs, engine guards and center stand - a disaster waiting to happen

another disaster waiting to happen

[Padmei]

A lot of guys on klrnet swap their bolts with aircraft quality or sumting like that. My bolts falling out wasn't really a fault as such- I think I just neglected to loctite them when I put the crashbars on.

I like my klr:love:

[Woodman]

Ah well since the kiwi $ is .64 cents today I just decided on a wim to order a 6.6 gallon tank. (delivered to work of course so Mrs Woodman doesn't notice):bash:
Tank eliminates the radiator guards and will protect me wonky radiator and reservoir bottle, and is significantly cheaper than crash bars, and will hold the fuel down low and forward which is good.
Will post pics when it arrives.

[Padmei]

Ah well since the kiwi $ is .64 cents today I just decided on a wim to order a 6.6 gallon tank. (delivered to work of course so Mrs Woodman doesn't notice):bash:
Tank eliminates the radiator guards and will protect me wonky radiator and reservoir bottle, and is significantly cheaper than crash bars, and will hold the fuel down low and forward which is good.
Will post pics when it arrives.

Sounds good WM. Do you want to catch up in the weekend & I can drop off the doos.

[Woodman]

Sounds good WM. Do you want to catch up in the weekend & I can drop off the doos.

Just hold onto it for now, I may be out of action for a wee while and can't really plan anything at the moment.

[junkmanjoe]

that new tank sounds the ticket...
they metal or plastic.

[Woodman]

that new tank sounds the ticket...
they metal or plastic.

Plastic made by IMS, apparently the same as the Marines use on their klrs, there are geen and desert colours and see thru, but i went for a red one cos they faster.

[junkmanjoe]

fair enough... can understand your reasons for a red tank.
put up some photos when it arrives and ya get it fitted please, thank you ...

[Padmei]

I went to check the oil but couldn't find the dipstick. I know it's got one somewhere
http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/DSC01585.jpg

Anyway I gave up on that & thought while I'm doing some maintenance I 'd better check tyre pressure

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/DSC01587.jpg

Couldn't get the pressure thingy working so flagged that & thought I'd oil the chain

http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww103/padmei_crayfish/DSC01589.jpg

Hell they're a bugger to get off.

Stain below bike is from trapped water in the swingarm bolt holder thingy.

[RedKLR650]

I never realised how skinny the '08 on radiators were compared to the pre '08 models. My '07 radiator is about 40mm deep, but yours looks only about 20mm ? At least they upped the fan from the plastic 3 blade to what looks like about 6 or 7 blade ?

[NordieBoy]

You're lucky the radiator fluid didn't need checking too.

[marks]

seeing it all stripped down like that makes me want to make mine all minimalistic - sort of like a DR650 without the blandness :Punk:

did it not occur to you to clean your bike before stripping it?

[Woodman]

The thing was only put together last year.:shit:

[warewolf]

did it not occur to you to clean your bike before stripping it?Que? That is the cleaned bike.

[Padmei]

seeing it all stripped down like that makes me want to make mine all minimalistic - sort of like a DR650 without the blandness :Punk:

did it not occur to you to clean your bike before stripping it?

I am really excited once I put the swingarm etc back on, to just put the tank & seat on & motard it over Takaka hill. Maybe then I'll finally get the front wheel up.

[marks]

Que? That is the cleaned bike.

yeah sure Colin......

BTW - those massive pictures sure took hours to load on my 2400 modem

[marks]

I am really excited once I put the swingarm etc back on, to just put the tank & seat on & motard it over Takaka hill. Maybe then I'll finally get the front wheel up.

I would have thought your klr would have popped the front with the 14T?
Mine will with a 15T (it needs a 'roll off - roll on' to do it)

did you just take the swingarm off to grease the bushes/bearings?

[Padmei]

Nah just getting to know my bike a bit better. Easier here than half way across the Simpson.

[Woodman]

I am really excited once I put the swingarm etc back on, to just put the tank & seat on & motard it over Takaka hill. Maybe then I'll finally get the front wheel up.

My front comes up pretty easy now especially with the 14 tooth up front. In fact keeping the front wheel off the ground eliminates the need for any front suspension mods.

[warewolf]

BTW - those massive pictures sure took hours to load on my 2400 modemFaster than my 1200/75. Thought it was a KTM at first, it was all orange and black on my monochrome monitor.

[warewolf]

In fact keeping the front wheel off the ground eliminates the need for any front suspension mods.That must've been Paul's reason. He's only recently sprung the bike for his weight, massive improvement he reckons, but he's still in the habit of 'protecting' the front end by avoiding it touching anything.

[Padmei]

Spent the weekend cleaning out the wkshop so I finally have somewhere to work on things.

Kept looking at the KLR thinking ' If I could shift that there & reroute that & get a vapour dash, I could get away with a rather slim bike. Especially if I make up some rear fuel tanks...'

It would be an interesting project anyway.

Couple of questions: Do the vapor dashs have Tachos & if so are they compatible with any bike. Also are the speedos wireless?

Could the radiator be changed to a narrower one without causing problems with overheating? It runs pretty good normally only getting hot on mental climbs.

Finally if any 08 or 09 KLR owners have any broken fairings or know of any shops with broken fairings/ panels etc PM me as I'd like to do bit of a experiment.

Thanks
BTW I'm not sure how the pics got so big - They seemed alright when I viewed them on my laptop.

[Frodo]

Padmei, your Swine Flu must be contagious! Did a 40,000km service on the Peg this weekend: fluids, valves and greased the suspension bearings.

[Woodman]

you have started something. Pulled mine to bits today to check the tappets as she has seemed a bit slow for a while now, but tappet clearance is spot on so thats not the problem. Anyway while the radiator etc was off i got to thinking that 2 slimmer ones like on mx bikes either side would be a better idea. Would have to move the reservoir somewhere though, maybe out back.

[pete376403]

I'm sure the KLR rad could be a lot narrower (keep the same height but maybe half the width. I have blanked off half the rad with duct tape to try and make it run a bit hotter but it rarely gets (on the guage) just out of the "cold" mark.

I'd like to try Watt-mans Thermo-bob.

I have got a pretty munted right side panel - what do you have in mind?

[Padmei]

Padmei, your Swine Flu must be contagious! Did a 40,000km service on the Peg this weekend: fluids, valves and greased the suspension bearings.

I love the fairing being held out by the rope! Shit they pack a lot of wiring into these machines dont they??
I now know I really need 2 bikes - one to ride on while the other is being worked on.


you have started something. Anyway while the radiator etc was off i got to thinking that 2 slimmer ones like on mx bikes either side would be a better idea. Would have to move the reservoir somewhere though, maybe out back.

Was thinking the same thing. Reservoir could be put anywhere really sideways, a lot of relays to shift. Vapor dash could get rid of the bulky front, Would one smaller radiator work - mine doesn't really get that hot... I love the Husaberg FE450 especially with the rear plastic subframe/ gas tank. I think you could make up something similar in alloy if the air box was somehow fed from the front (ram air?) & the battery shifted. Getting some of that weight lower would be a blessing.

Damn I'm not gonna be able to sleep tonite now

[Padmei]

I'd like to try Watt-mans Thermo-bob.

I have got a pretty munted right side panel - what do you have in mind?

The thermo just quickens the warm up time doesn't it? I'd love your munted panel if you don't have a use for it.

Just quietly doing a frankenstein motard thing I think for Ruapuna (don't let anyone know tho)

[Frodo]

I had a similar problem with my bike not heating up during these cold mornings. I've covered about a third of my radiator with a piece of 4 L oil container plastic cable-tied on. Works well. Now gets up to operating temperature even on the cold mornings and still doesn't over-heat during the day (fan didn't even come on in slow traffic). Probably leave it on until spring.

Cheers

[Woodman]

I think crfs have a reservoir behind the rear side cover, that would work. As for ram air, klr does not go fast enough to benefit from it, the fresh and possibly slightly colder air may be of use but I doubt it.

[pete376403]

The thermo just quickens the warm up time doesn't it? I'd love your munted panel if you don't have a use for it.

Just quietly doing a frankenstein motard thing I think for Ruapuna (don't let anyone know tho)

If yu have a look at Watt-mans web pages the thermo-bob does make it worm up quicker but also holds the temp more evenly. The KLR cooling is pretty basic and the engine temp goes through some big cold/hot/cold swings as the existing thermostat opens and closes. See http://members.cox.net/watt-man/TB%20Testing1.htm

[Woodman]

Freontour may have some munted panels after his comboine arvester issue. They are green too.

[RedKLR650]

Freontour may have some munted panels after his comboine arvester issue. They are green too.

Well to be more precise, has left NZ to spend time with his sister in Brisbane until his arm and ribs heal up and while his bike gets repaired

He's planning on being back late September, early October to resume his travels and spend another 6 months touring NZ

I'll email him and ask if he would mind his munted panels being put to a new creative use :-)

Cheers, Stu

[Woodman]

Well to be more precise, has left NZ to spend time with his sister in Brisbane until his arm and ribs heal up and while his bike gets repaired

He's planning on being back late September, early October to resume his travels and spend another 6 months touring NZ

I'll email him and ask if he would mind his munted panels being put to a new creative use :-)

Cheers, Stu

The vultures are circling

[Padmei]

Seen these? They sound like a great idea to stop brake dive.

Intiminators (http://store.ricorshocks.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=42)

[marks]

Seen these? They sound like a great idea to stop brake dive.

Intiminators (http://store.ricorshocks.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=42)

read nordies DR thread - he fitted a set to the DR

[Woodman]

Seen these? They sound like a great idea to stop brake dive.

Intiminators (http://store.ricorshocks.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=42)

Looked at those a few months back after Nordie got some for his bike. They were half price then.

What is wrong with brake dive?? personally find it quite useful on tight offroad tracks or tight gravel as it tends to lift the back up to help bounce the rear round the corner.

[Padmei]

Oh... oh yeah me too..

[NordieBoy]

If I got another bike I'd be looking for Intiminators to match.

[marks]

If I got another bike I'd be looking for Intiminators to match.

even at full retail?

[NordieBoy]

even at full retail?

Well it's $210us full price from Kientech for the DR650.
If you went the emulator route you'd be getting springs at $100us and the emulators at $160us.

[Woodman]

even at full retail?

marks, have you tried the valve spring mod to your front end yet?

[marks]

marks, have you tried the valve spring mod to your front end yet?

not yet
its on the list of things to do

[Padmei]

Whats the valve spring Mod?

I thought Nordie got some emulators that made adjusting the rebound easier?

Done the 22c Mod? Thats the next on the list after doing the steerer tube bearing lube.
Getting the swingarm back tomm - it's getting welds over where the kick start & rear pegs been rubbing it.

Also gonna do the exhaust mod just to get a deeper note. I will wait till the bikes going again for this one tho.

I have cleaned the bike (cheers WW;)) & silicon sprayed it. Mrs Padmei wondered if I had repainted it - came out looking like a new bike. Learning new things all the time:yes:

[Woodman]

not yet
its on the list of things to do

have a similar list.

Fit new tank
straighten radiator.
Straighten headlight/fairing bracket
Fit new fairing
Replace front wheel bearings
Fit rimlocks
Fit straight handlebars or re align steering.
Fuckit go for a ride.

[Padmei]

Just reread Nordies post & am unsure of the intimators now. I think a preload spacer may be better - would it stop bottoming out easier? Prob better springs would be better but they're big bucks.

[Woodman]

Just reread Nordies post & am unsure of the intimators now. I think a preload spacer may be better - would it stop bottoming out easier? Prob better springs would be better but they're big bucks.

Why you not rissen?

Go to a garage or engine shop and get a couple of old valve springs of about 2 inches long and about the same od as the id of your forks and pop them on top of your fork spring then put the spacer in and tighten it all up again.

Straight up it worked wonders for my beast.

[NordieBoy]

If you want plush without dive and have $300us to spare get the Intiminators.

If you're a genuwhine KLR owner get a couple of freebie valve springs...






I want some for my XR to replace the large nuts I've got preloading the springs...
I can feel the clunk as they top out over bumps from here...

[warewolf]

I want some for my XR to replace the large nuts I've got preloading the springs...
I can feel the clunk as they top out over bumps from here...Not many people would admit that their large nuts clunk when they top out... :crazy:

[Woodman]

If you want plush without dive and have $300us to spare get the Intiminators.

If you're a genuwhine KLR owner get a couple of freebie valve springs


I like how you spell genuwhine. Is that a Freudian slip in relation to your 3rd gear?

[Woodman]

Not many people would admit that their large nuts clunk when they top out... :crazy:

Also that their large nuts actually have an effect on spring preload.

[NordieBoy]

Not many people would admit that their large nuts clunk when they top out... :crazy:
How else to you get dents in the top of the tank?


I like how you spell genuwhine. Is that a Freudian slip in relation to your 3rd gear?
Earplugs=no more whine.


Also that their large nuts actually have an effect on spring preload.
It's the extra weight you see...

[marks]

I just ordered a set of the Intiminators like Nordies got - they are on special - about $300 NZ including the fecking horrendous delivery charges.

[NordieBoy]

I just ordered a set of the Intiminators like Nordies got - they are on special - about $300 NZ including the fecking horrendous delivery charges.

Copycat!
Next you'll be riding a bike with real power and handling just like me :D

[Woodman]

Copycat!
Next you'll be riding a bike with real power and handling just like me :D

We KLR riders do ok without power and handling thankyou very much.

[Padmei]

We KLR riders do ok without power and handling thankyou very much.

Thats because we have style....ahem...:blip:

[marks]

Copycat!

you are my product researcher :yes:

[Padmei]

Man I got the back wheel on last nite & wanted to ride naked this weekend but it's bloody raining. The bike is looking unbelievably clean - think Warewolf clean- I can't seem to bring myself to get a flick of dirt on it.

Got the swingarm welded where the kick stand & rearsets were rubbing on it & they made an excellent job. I was expecting big beads everywhere but they sanded right back to the same as swingarm. All for $20.

Might as well go find some valve springs & keep it in the Lab for the weekend.

[NordieBoy]

Technically it's a 5min job to pop the fork caps off and pop the spacers out and drop the springs in.

[pete376403]

How do you get the passenger pegs and so on rubbing on the swingarm? There seems to be plenty of clearance between the bits on my bike?

[NordieBoy]

How do you get the passenger pegs and so on rubbing on the swingarm? There seems to be plenty of clearance between the bits on my bike?

How often do you fall off on the left side?

[pete376403]

a couple of times but in both cases it has been the plastic engine shroud that has taken the hit.

[marty]

who was the tosser on the KLR on the southern this evening lane splitting with their headlight on high beam? saw them at mt wellington, then passed them on the downhill at bombay just before the turn off to thames - headlight still on high beam (i'm picking they stopped at the autobahn cause we were crawling - averaged 15km/h from hobson st to manukau......)

[Woodman]

Man I got the back wheel on last nite & wanted to ride naked this weekend but it's bloody raining. The bike is looking unbelievably clean - think Warewolf clean- I can't seem to bring myself to get a flick of dirt on it.

Got the swingarm welded where the kick stand & rearsets were rubbing on it & they made an excellent job. I was expecting big beads everywhere but they sanded right back to the same as swingarm. All for $20.

Might as well go find some valve springs & keep it in the Lab for the weekend.

Did you check the rear cush drive bearing to prevent another gouge in the swingarm. And Nordie is right the valve spring job is not a long one.

[pete376403]

who was the tosser on the KLR on the southern this evening lane splitting with their headlight on high beam? saw them at mt wellington, then passed them on the downhill at bombay just before the turn off to thames - headlight still on high beam (i'm picking they stopped at the autobahn cause we were crawling - averaged 15km/h from hobson st to manukau......)

If it was a new (08/09) KLR it might not have been on high beam - the lights on these things are really f*ckin bright and because the front of the bike is quite tall it puts the headlight right in line with the rear view mirror of the car in front (OTOH if both headlights were on then it was high beam and the rider is a tosser)


BTW was in Motorad the other day and saw this being prepared. If you're going to Rarotonga (IIRC) keep an eye out for cops on.....

Sorry crappy phone cam. The pole at the rear is holding a big orange flashing light and there are a couple of red and blues down the front on the crash bars

[marty]

pretty sure it was a single light model. had a boxy thing and what looked like a sleeping bag on the back.

[Padmei]

Did you check the rear cush drive bearing to prevent another gouge in the swingarm. And Nordie is right the valve spring job is not a long one.

Might have to add this to the shed nite check. I'm nit sure exactly what to check sometimes however it does have grese in it. I think the pegs were bent in & the kick stand def was bent in at one stage.

Got some valve springs yesterday so will fit them this weekend. Off a Mitsi so should be ok. Was hoping for some off a diesel

[Woodman]

Might have to add this to the shed nite check. I'm nit sure exactly what to check sometimes however it does have grese in it. I think the pegs were bent in & the kick stand def was bent in at one stage.

Got some valve springs yesterday so will fit them this weekend. Off a Mitsi so should be ok. Was hoping for some off a diesel

Doesn't really matter what they are off really as long as the size is about right. I am very interested to see if you think it makes any difference to your frontend.

[RedKLR650]

Hi all,

Apologies if some of you have seen this before, but tonight I accidentally discovered the most amazing page ( more like a novel ) of information re our trusty KLR's :clap:

I've just spent the last 1/2 hour learning all sorts of things I thought I already knew...... :drool:

http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#generalinformation

Have a look...... curious as to how useful people find the info :sleep:

Cheers, Stu :scooter:

[Woodman]

Went down to the shed to put the top back on after checking the tappets and thought i would just check them again. Dunno how i missed it but the left inlet is right on the minimum so pulled the cam and the shim out etc.
Now i wonder if Kawasaki NZ have any shims in the country??

Good thing is that the design of the dohc and chain setup is very simple and easy to work on.

Disapointing thing is the inlet cam is not made very well, the machining where the sprocket goes on hasn't even cleaned up the casting properly. It functions but if I got that back from a machine shop it woulda gone back.

[Padmei]

Hey Stu
It is an interesting read isn't it. I don't think they've updated for the 08 or 09 models yet.

I put the swingarm & stuff back on Gonzo but left all the fairings & 'stuff' off. Even though I haven't done anything on the motor the throttle response is fantastic in lower gears.
I got the front wheel up in 1st quite high but only just off the ground in 2nd. The extra crap must put a huge weight on the front end.
I'm really tempted to make a couple of liteweight stainless guards for the rad & reservoir & lose the front speedo etc,hook up a small headlite & small indicators to make a dirtversion kLR & then have a quickfit fairing setup to change over for longer rides.

I noticed it also didn't want to fall over sideways when slightly off balance.

Wait I think I've just described a DR:no:

[Padmei]

Went down to the shed to put the top back on after checking the tappets and thought i would just check them again. Dunno how i missed it but the left inlet is right on the minimum so pulled the cam and the shim out etc.
Now i wonder if Kawasaki NZ have any shims in the country??

Good thing is that the design of the dohc and chain setup is very simple and easy to work on.

Disapointing thing is the inlet cam is not made very well, the machining where the sprocket goes on hasn't even cleaned up the casting properly. It functions but if I got that back from a machine shop it woulda gone back.

That was what I am concerned about when checking my tappets. What size shims should I take if they're out? Do they come in standard sizes or infinite sizes to suit how far they are out?

[NordieBoy]

I'm really tempted to make a couple of liteweight stainless guards for the rad & reservoir & lose the front speedo etc,hook up a small headlite & small indicators to make a dirtversion kLR & then have a quickfit fairing setup to change over for longer rides.

I noticed it also didn't want to fall over sideways when slightly off balance.

Wait I think I've just described a DR:no:

Oh noes!


Sounds a bit like that one on AdvRider but he went to the huge tank. I liked it though.

[NordieBoy]

Hi all,

Apologies if some of you have seen this before, but tonight I accidentally discovered the most amazing page ( more like a novel ) of information re our trusty KLR's :clap:

I've just spent the last 1/2 hour learning all sorts of things I thought I already knew...... :drool:

http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html#generalinformation

Have a look...... curious as to how useful people find the info :sleep:

Cheers, Stu :scooter:
Quite a bit of stuff there you can replace KLR with DR and it'd still be applicable.
Good stuff

[RedKLR650]

That was what I am concerned about when checking my tappets. What size shims should I take if they're out? Do they come in standard sizes or infinite sizes to suit how far they are out?

Check out that link I posted six of posts above this one (Post #102)...... Info as follows....

The KLR's valve shims are 29mm in diameter. There are other sizes that are close, but make sure they give you the right ones. If your Kawi dealer doesn't have the right ones in stock, shims from an '87 BMW K75S and '82 Yamaha Seca 750 are the same diameter. (Beware, there are also 29.5mm shims, which will not work.)

Cheers, Stu

[warewolf]

What size shims should I take if they're out? Do they come in standard sizes or infinite sizes to suit how far they are out?Shims usually come in 0.05mm thickness increments, sometimes 0.02 or 0.025. Which is why your spec is given to a 0.05mm tolerance. It's not like a bearing that has to be a very precise fit. The shims are originally marked with the size, and should be inserted marking down so the cam doesn't rub the marking off. They can also wear, so it is good practice to double-check the marking by measuring with a micrometer.

You need to measure the clearance, read/measure the existing shim, and calculate the difference between the existing clearance and what you want, add that to the existing shim to get your new shim. There are charts to do the grunt work for you. And hopefully when you re-check the clearances after it is all back together, you've done it right and don't have to repeat the exercise. DAMHIK.

Most bike shops have a tackle box full of the different sizes, and will exchange yours for $10 each. I also have half a dozen you are welcome to swap - the Trophy ones are about the same, will have to measure to see if they are 29 or 29.5mm. I've used Triumph and Yamaha ones in the past.

It is usually a good idea to set them as open as you can. This creates a little more tappet noise, reduces your top end power a smidge, but means it is a lot longer before they go out-of-spec tight. Means you spend more services checking they are okay without having to take the cams out to change shims.

Hmmm, what was that about KTMs requiring more maintenance? Screw and locknut valve clearances are a doddle compared to this caper!

PS record your clearances and shim sizes, this will give you a history of how much the valves are receding, and means next time you can shop for the correct shims before removing the old ones.

[Woodman]

That was what I am concerned about when checking my tappets. What size shims should I take if they're out? Do they come in standard sizes or infinite sizes to suit how far they are out?

Apparently kawasaki make shims in .002" (2 thou) increments. I still got my micrometers from the olden days so measured them and the next one down will easily have it still in tolerance. You can also swap them around a bit to get the right clearance if the combos work. BTW warewolfs measurements are metric whereas mine are imperial.

They have numbers on them so really all you need is the one that is one step thinner or 2 steps if they are really tight but they shouldn't be.

I thought about setting them all loose but the job is not a biggie so am gonna leave mine in the middle of the tolerance.

Adjustable rockers would be easier but bucket and shims are a superior design technically speaking.

If you need a hand I am happy to help and there is some good step by step info online.

[Howie]

That was what I am concerned about when checking my tappets. What size shims should I take if they're out? Do they come in standard sizes or infinite sizes to suit how far they are out?

Hi , this link has a Shim size chart on this page, plus links to how to do's, for other mod's and procedures for KLR's

http://www.klr650.marknet.us/shimtable.html

cheers

Paul

[Padmei]

Thanks guys for the tech tips.

WW has generously offered his shed for a shed nite so will do it then. How come they tighten as opposed to loosen. The design obviously defies most other parts that loosen over time.

As the bike is still under warantee I don't really want to waltz into the kawa shop & ask for shims as they may not like anyone opening the top.

[MXNUT]

Thanks guys for the tech tips.

How come they tighten as opposed to loosen. The design obviously defies most other parts that loosen over time.

2 words..... Valve Recession

The valve face ( where it sits against the valve seat ) slowly wears down from repeatedly being hammered shut by the valve spring causing the end of the valve to move closer to the camshaft thus reducing clearance.

Dust and dirt also has the same effect which is why it is so important to keep air filters clean. :shit:

[pete376403]

Adjustable rockers would be easier but bucket and shims are a superior design technically speaking.

Maybe or maybe not. Shims UNDER buckets are possibly the best, but a PITA to set clearances as the cams HAVE to be removed. (eg Yamaha FZR1000). Shim OVER bucket is more convenient, as with the correct tools the shims can be removed with the cams in place. The downside of shim over bucket is that at high revs, if the valves float, the shims can come part way out. Next time the cam lobe comes around, the valve is pressed way too far open, collides with the piston, mayhem occurs. This used to happen a lot in superbike racing when the two valve GS1000, KZ1000 etc motors were used.
Theres a Z1000 superbike on trademe that lists underbucket shim conversion as one of its many features
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Classic-vintage/auction-226989160.htm

[pete376403]

Thanks guys for the tech tips.
As the bike is still under warantee I don't really want to waltz into the kawa shop & ask for shims as they may not like anyone opening the top.

I don't think they can use the warranty as a reason to prevent you performing your own maintenance (as opposed to repair). Obviously if you screw up the job and damage the engine then it's not going to be repaired under warranty.
Anyway, tell them you need the parts for an old BMW you have...

[Woodman]

Maybe or maybe not. Shims UNDER buckets are possibly the best, but a PITA to set clearances as the cams HAVE to be removed. (eg Yamaha FZR1000). Shim OVER bucket is more convenient, as with the correct tools the shims can be removed with the cams in place. The downside of shim over bucket is that at high revs, if the valves float, the shims can come part way out. Next time the cam lobe comes around, the valve is pressed way too far open, collides with the piston, mayhem occurs. This used to happen a lot in superbike racing when the two valve GS1000, KZ1000 etc motors were used.

I was more thinking in a mechanical efficiency line. if I had a compressor I would have left the cam in and used crc and air to blow the shim out while pressing the bucket down but taking the cams out doesn't take any longer really.

The valve float thing is probarbly not so much of an issue with 4 valve heads therefore lighter valves less inertias etc.

Wow this thread has stayed pretty much on topic since it started and its mainly occupied by klrererers . Double wow.

[JATZ]

Wow this thread has stayed pretty much on topic since it started and its mainly occupied by klrererers . Double wow.

You know......you wouldn't have these problems with a DR :Pokey:

I'll just leave now

[Padmei]

You know......you wouldn't have these problems with a DR :Pokey:

I'll just leave now

Funny tho - we take our bikes apart cos we want to, not because we have to:2guns:

That aside please lets not turn this into DR vs KLr or I'll have to bump up the tiresome KLRDR debate thread to keep this one clean.

What's being worn down more with valve recession? The valves themselves or valve seats?
BTW I appreciate all the info - velly intelesting

[Woodman]

Funny tho - we take our bikes apart cos we want to, not because we have to:2guns:

That aside please lets not turn this into DR vs KLr or I'll have to bump up the tiresome KLRDR debate thread to keep this one clean.

What's being worn down more with valve recession? The valves themselves or valve seats?
BTW I appreciate all the info - velly intelesting

Valve recession is part of the reason why valve clearances close up. valve and seat wear about even really.

A valve closes against the valve seat every second revolution and the only thing that closes it is the valve spring which may be about 50 pounds seated. If you are riding at an average of 4000rpm then your valve is closing 2000 times per minute in a very harsh environment e.g. bloody hot . The valve and the seat will wear into each other and that is what causes some of the valve clearance to close up. The other thing that will cause it is the valve actually stretches generally just up from the head.

[MXNUT]

Valve and seat wear about even really.

In a very high revving modern 4 stroke ( 250 - 450 Mx engines ) this is also very dependant on the material the valve is manufactured from with the preference by some manufacturers to use titainium.
This is due to the lower weight of the valve requiring a valve spring with less tension therefore requiring less horsepower to open .Titainium valves do wear faster in these applications which is why many aftermarket parts companies offer replacemant valve kits with valves made from stainless steel :Offtopic:


From a Suzuki rider lurking in this thread :shifty::shifty:

[Woodman]

In a very high revving modern 4 stroke ( 250 - 450 Mx engines ) this is also very dependant on the material the valve is manufactured from with the preference by some manufacturers to use titainium.
This is due to the lower weight of the valve requiring a valve spring with less tension therefore requiring less horsepower to open .Titainium valves do wear faster in these applications which is why many aftermarket parts companies offer replacemant valve kits with valves made from stainless steel :Offtopic:


From a Suzuki rider lurking in this thread :shifty::shifty:

Also lighter valves reduce float. Think we mentioned this prior? When you consider the abuse they get its amazing they last as long as they do. A bit like klr riders really.:laugh::laugh:

[Padmei]

Reading the clymer manual now about valve setting etc. Once it starts talking about procedures my eyes start glazing over & I head for the afghans. That's why I need you guys to drip feed info to me :blink:

[Woodman]

Padmei I took some pics to get you visually prepared.
Wish I knew how to post them pics that get bigger with the whirly thing when you click on it.

http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/th_DSC00476.jpg (http://s709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/?action=view&current=DSC00476.jpg)http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/th_DSC00477.jpg (http://s709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/?action=view&current=DSC00477.jpg)http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/th_DSC00474.jpg (http://s709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/?action=view&current=DSC00474.jpg)http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/th_DSC00475.jpg (http://s709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/?action=view&current=DSC00475.jpg)

[marks]

Once it starts talking about procedures my eyes start glazing over & I head for the afghans.

I'll call the SPCA

http://www.opednews.com/populum/uploaded/afghan-hound-puppy-dogs-21546-20090413-54.jpg

[JATZ]

You could try http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Valve_Shim_Check_FAQ.htm

I used it when doing the shims on the F650's for the first time.Not sure what your setup looks like but the measuring section should be the same

[Howie]

Reading the clymer manual now about valve setting etc. Once it starts talking about procedures my eyes start glazing over & I head for the afghans. That's why I need you guys to drip feed info to me :blink:

This is a fairly good write up of the procedure for pre 08 KLR's not sure how different it is on the new shape ones. http://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html

[warewolf]

If you need a hand I am happy to help and there is some good step by step info online.Google "how to set KLR650 valve clearance" and see how many step-by-step documents pop up... that's how I found you have the shim arrangement.


Funny tho - we take our bikes apart cos we want to, not because we have to:2guns:You wanted your footpeg to fall off? :scratch:


How come they tighten as opposed to loosen. The design obviously defies most other parts that loosen over time.Parts loosen because they wear. The valves effectively loosen wrt the piston, if that helps your grey matter. Part of the reason there is a clearance at the top of the valve is to create space for the parts at the bottom of the valve to wear in to. Part of it is to allow space for heat expansion (hence doing them cold, so that factor is neutralised/constant).

I have old valves in the shed you can have a look at to see the wear. I also have an old crankshaft, conrods, pistons, camshafts... :shutup:


As the bike is still under warantee I don't really want to waltz into the kawa shop & ask for shims as they may not like anyone opening the top.So go to a different shop, or tell them it's for a different bike.

Technically/legally - and there are threads here about this - anyone can work on your bike, including yourself, and that in itself does not void the warranty despite any written or verbal assurances to the contrary from a dealer/manufacturer. A service log & receipts is good enough proof that the work has been done, dealer stamp not required. Shall we talk about this on Thurs?

[pete376403]

This is a fairly good write up of the procedure for pre 08 KLR's not sure how different it is on the new shape ones. http://www.klr650.marknet.us/valves.html

Not sure if its all '08s or just mine, but - there is a tube that bleeds fresh air into the exhaust port (to help clean up emissions). Tube is fastened to the cam cover, and the boss that the fastener screws into is placed exactly right to hit the frame and prevent lifting the cover up far enough to clear the cam sprockets.
A few minutes with the Dremel (note; because I am a cheap-ass KLRista, the $39.95 SuperCheap equivalent) removed enough of the boss to allow cover removal.

I had the Suzuki tools that allow pushing down the buckets without removing the cams (hooked under the cams and pushed the edge of the bucket down enough to lift the shim out with a magnet or tweezers, made for the old two valve GS series 4 cylinder motors). I should ask for them back and see if they work on the KLR.

[Woodman]

ran my klr with the rocker cover off the other day cos i like to watch, and besides getting oil all over me fairing the thing that was really apparent was how quiet the engine was. The cover must resonate all the mechanical noises something shocking.

[Woodman]

Went to Filco this arvo and got a couple of .002' thinner shims, whacked em in and shes all go, cept had to wait to get enough charge in the battery b4 she started.

The numbers on the back of the shims relate to the thickness in mm.e.g. Mine had 265's and to get .05mm (.002" in proper language) thinner I got
260's.
The 265 is 2.65 mm total thickness and so on.

[warewolf]

there is a tube that bleeds fresh air into the exhaust port (to help clean up emissions).It also helps to disguise the emissions... adding fresh air dilutes the bad stuff so the bike gets a better tailpipe measurement without doing diddly-squat for the environment.

It is conceivable that the weight and complexity of the system could measurably increase fuel consumption and negate any gains from helping to burn off the noxious stuff.

Bureaucracy gone mad...

[marks]

Not sure if its all '08s or just mine, but - there is a tube that bleeds fresh air into the exhaust port (to help clean up emissions). Tube is fastened to the cam cover, and the boss that the fastener screws into is placed exactly right to hit the frame and prevent lifting the cover up far enough to clear the cam sprockets.
A few minutes with the Dremel (note; because I am a cheap-ass KLRista, the $39.95 SuperCheap equivalent) removed enough of the boss to allow cover removal.

I thought it was just one of the standard things that you 'just remove' when you get a klr?

[Woodman]

I thought it was just one of the standard things that you 'just remove' when you get a klr?

Mine (2005) does not have it, but the rockercover is still a bit fiddly to remove.

[pete376403]

I thought it was just one of the standard things that you 'just remove' when you get a klr?
Well you can, but then you have to plug the hole properly (so the plug doesn't blow out on the way to the SCAR...)

[marks]

Well you can, but then you have to plug the hole properly (so the plug doesn't blow out on the way to the SCAR...)

some things I'd rather not be reminded of :no:

[Woodman]

ooooo new tank arrived at work today. will take pics later for all to see:woohoo:

[NordieBoy]

ooooo new tank arrived at work today. will take pics later for all to see:woohoo:

Bring it in and fit it up tonight :D

[marks]

ooooo new tank arrived at work today. will take pics later for all to see:woohoo:

must be a day for it.

got a little package from Ricor Racing Shocks this morning. I could be a busy boy this weekend :yes:

[Box'a'bits]

must be a day for it. Got a little package from Ricor Racing Shocks this morning. I could be a busy boy this weekend :yes:

Well I got a new c/s sprocket and a couple of oil filters for the KTM. Does that rate? :Oops: No? Bugger, budgets a little (ehem) sparse at present.
Where's the photos Woodman? You've only had all day...

Steve

[Woodman]

Bring it in and fit it up tonight :D

Would have, but transporting the tank and the bike there would have been a mission, the thing is huge.

[warewolf]

the thing is huge....said the actress to the bishop.

[marks]

...said the actress to the bishop.

same response occurred to me

but I was too mature to post it

[Woodman]

Put me new tank on today, it went reasonably smoothly. Worst part was bashing the reservoir bottle side straight after the big river incident.

The bike in my opinion is now not as pretty, and i still can't figure out how to use the fuel in the rad shroud parts so have no idea of mileage. Will give it a shake down run tomorrow then pull it off to see if there are any rub marks etc.

OOps fitted it to the wrong bike.
http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/DSC00488.jpg

http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/DSC00491.jpg

http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/DSC00493.jpg

http://i709.photobucket.com/albums/ww97/innathyzit/DSC00492.jpg

[warewolf]

Looking good, Vern!

[Padmei]

Looking Big Vern

[Woodman]

Looking good, Vern!

Who the fook is Vern?

[Box'a'bits]

Yes but more practical now for what you are using it for Woodman. :woohoo:

What you are missing is the decal from the original shrouds & tank, which made it seem smaller. What is the tank made from. Will it allow decals to be applied, or will it 'breath' gas fumes?

Steve

[warewolf]

Who the fook is Vern?A fave Far Side quote. Vern is a bull blowing up an inflatable cow. Quote is from his excitable sidekick.

And oddly enough, my grandad was Vern.

[Woodman]

Yes but more practical now for what you are using it for Woodman. :woohoo:

What you are missing is the decal from the original shrouds & tank, which made it seem smaller. What is the tank made from. Will it allow decals to be applied, or will it 'breath' gas fumes?

Steve

apparantly they breathe too many gas fumes for decals to stick, and at the end of the day spending dosh on decals which are only gonna get worn off seems a waste to me. The good thing is the tank is the same physical size as the stock one so don't need to adjust riding position etc. I didn't get it for range as klrs have bloody good range anyway.

[Woodman]

A fave Far Side quote. Vern is a bull blowing up an inflatable cow. Quote is from his excitable sidekick.

And oddly enough, my grandad was Vern.

Feel so much more enriched now

[Padmei]

Oh baby check this out. Straight outta afghanistan

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-228217415.htm

[Woodman]

Oh baby check this out. Straight outta afghanistan

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-228217415.htm

Good bike for EddieB

[JATZ]

Oh baby check this out. Straight outta afghanistan

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-228217415.htm

Saw that earlier, might be a good one for the boy, if woodman can abuse his the way he does then it should be safe for #2 child, only problem I see is it's a kawasaki

[Padmei]

only problem I see is it's a kawasaki

You're looking at it & that's the ONLY problem you see?

[Woodman]

only problem I see is it's a kawasaki

You are in a klr thread you know. (Kawasaki)

[RedKLR650]

Oh baby check this out. Straight outta afghanistan

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-228217415.htm

Sadly the NZ Army use the puny KLR 250's, wouldn't mind getting an ex US Army KLR650 ( Diesel - 1000km's to the tank ) :yes:

The real army ones are below

http://www.dieselmotorcycles.com/military.htm

And they even have Woodmans big plastic tanks on :woohoo:

and this is the civillian version that may or may not ever be released to the public :-)

http://www.dieselmotorcycles.com/model4.htm

http://www.dieselmotorcycles.com/models.htm

http://www.dieselmotorcycles.com/PDF/MD670F_Spec_Sheet.pdf

Cheers, Stu :scooter:

[Woodman]

Would love to have a go on one of those.

If they ever do put them into production they would certainly be hard to go past for world travellers.

[NordieBoy]

i still can't figure out how to use the fuel in the rad shroud parts so have no idea of mileage.

Learn to wheelie...

Or only go up steep hills when running low...

[Woodman]

Learn to wheelie...

Or only go up steep hills when running low...

There is a comundrum there in that if you are running out of gas, popping a wheelie is not good for fuel consumption, and i cannot / will not do long wheelies because of very bad prior experiences with that sort of reckless behaviour.:crybaby:

[Padmei]

i cannot / will not do long wheelies because of very bad prior experiences with that sort of reckless behaviour.:crybaby:

If only video cams were invented then.:rockon:

[Padmei]

I can't go past my KLr at the mo without looking at the air box thinking it would be perfect size & position as a fuel tank. if it's lower than carb as with IMS tank will the vacuum be enough to draw it thru or is a fuel pump needed? What probs would that create?
Is an airbox really needed? If one was fabricated smaller in a different location would it work? It's only for prefiltering air isn't it?

Just thinking..

[Woodman]

I can't go past my KLr at the mo without looking at the air box thinking it would be perfect size & position as a fuel tank. if it's lower than carb as with IMS tank will the vacuum be enough to draw it thru or is a fuel pump needed? What probs would that create?
Is an airbox really needed? If one was fabricated smaller in a different location would it work? It's only for prefiltering air isn't it?

Just thinking..

turn your tank into the airbox and visa versa. airbox size is important to a degree at slower speeds, but bikes still run fine with trumpets. You would be amazed how noisy they are without an airbox.

[Padmei]

Answer the whole question please if you decide to push the buzzer

[Woodman]

Answer the whole question please if you decide to push the buzzer

Ok Ok Ok I will answer the vacuum/ fuel pump question.

I don't know.

There

[NordieBoy]

Answer the whole question please if you decide to push the buzzer

Size does matter.
The bigger the better.

[cooneyr]

I'm not sure where the fuel taps are on Woddys new tank but if they are in the obvious location at the lowest point in the tank I reckon you are up for a fuel pump. There is no vacuum in the fuel lines, purely gravity feed to the carbies. Problem with fuel pumps is that you need to make sure they don't generate too much pressure or they overwhelm the float needle i.e. overfill the float bowl and flood the bike.

The other thing is if you are running an electric pump you really want a solid state one rather than one with contact points. The @'s all eventually need new pumps cause the contacts pit and die. The common electric options used for the @ and KTM 950's are Facet 40105, Facet 40171 (same as the 40105 but with check valves so no need to turn of fuel tap), and Carter (NAPA P74021). No idea what they cost and my 950 got a new factory pump put in at is last service so hopefully wont have to worry about this for some time (last one did 50k km). A non electric option is the Mikuni vacuum pump that the S10's run.

Cheers R

[warewolf]

if it's lower than carb as with IMS tank will the vacuum be enough to draw it thru or is a fuel pump needed? What probs would that create? Probably need a fuel pump. No big drama, the 640A runs one as the carb is up near the middle of the tank. It's just a simple Mikuni one runs off intake vacuum, set up with excessive flow and high waste IIRC, so it copes with various combinations of intake vacuum vs fuel flow (edit: and probably not to overwhelm the float needle).


turn your tank into the airbox and visa versa. airbox size is important to a degree at slower speeds, but bikes still run fine with trumpets.Mid- and high-range engine speeds I thought? ie when you have significant air flow. Air box creates resonance, akin to a two-stroke expansion chamber - amongst other things like swirl etc.

Probably more significant on multi-cylinder high-revving engines. A few years ago motogp bikes and road sports bikes were chasing bigger and bigger airboxes; much was made of this in the media. Balances the pulses between the cylinders (per exhaust plumbing for decades) and they were talking about a big "air spring" effect with the inertia of the flow and treating the airbox as a big reservoir of controlled air. Dunno what the story is now - have been too busy riding dirty bikes to be interested in the latest poofteenth of performance gain on sports bikes - but they are putting trumpets inside the airbox... having your cake and eating it, too.

That's not to say it isn't important on our singles. There's a fair bit of debate and confusion about snorkel in/out and performance airbox sidecover yes/no for the LC4; the dyno-proven camp was saying "keep the snorkel" and DIYers were saying "take it out". The latest info says that the pre-'03 (aka low-flow) head needs the snorkel in per the dyno, and the post-'03 High Flow head needs the snorkel out.

Almost all dyno testing I recall - especially that by exhaust builders who are trying everything to maximise the gains from their stuff - shows little or no mods to the airbox is best, for mildly tweaked bikes of course. Often opening the airbox results in mid-range losses, with the commensurate steep climb in power back up to the standard level when revving past the hole. Seat-of-the-pants tuners feel this steepness and mistakenly believe they've made massive gains to the top end by "removing that restrictive airbox". Way out of date seventies thinking, that.

[Box'a'bits]

On the Gilera, the fuel system runs a vaccum fuel pump set up to pump too much fuel. The fuel goes from the backbone mounted tank, up to a much smaller tank set at a level above the carb, which allows a gravity feed. That smaller tank also has a run off back to the main tank, to avoid any pressurisation impact.

Steve.

[Woodman]

Took the bike for a short run today, (can't say where exactly as the location is subject to a current tagorama ) with lots of mud and rocks and river crossings. Anyway it seems pretty good and possibly a bit wider where my knees usually go, but this could be that i was wearing mx boots with a thicker sole than my ususal road boots.

Put about 15 litres in and the bike seems way more stable than usual due I think to the fuel sitting way lower. I don't think it is my imagination or a case of farkle justification , it really did feel more stable and a couple of times when I thought she was going down it seemed to right itself. Once going up a very steep hill that had to be aborted and turning back down I lost me footing a bit and it didn't topple over as expected. Could also be the lost weight going from metal to plastic.

[marks]

Have any of you KLR'istas regreased your steering head bearings?

is there any drama involved?

I've got the fork legs out of mine at the moment and was wondering if I should do it will its in bits (bike is 9 months old and has 18K)

cheers


Mark

[Eddieb]

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[warewolf]

Have any of you KLR'istas regreased your steering head bearings?Can't answer specifically for KLRs but yes it is a good idea, especially when you have the fork legs out already.

The biggest pain is usually man-handling the top clamp if you leave the handlebars connected.

[Woodman]

The other day when I was fitting me new tank and was wondering where to put the vent I noticed that the top nut on the steering head was loose, in fact it was so loose the only thing stopping it coming off was the handlebars. I tightened it up and the front doesn't seem to shimmy now under brakes.

[pete376403]

Have any of you KLR'istas regreased your steering head bearings?

is there any drama involved?

I've got the fork legs out of mine at the moment and was wondering if I should do it will its in bits (bike is 9 months old and has 18K)

cheers


MarkIts ok but it can be awkward if you have the bike on the sidestand (really should have put it up n the axle stands and used a block under the engine). Dropping the forks down was easy, getting them back in was a bit messy. The bearings were quite dry, reason I noticed that was the rust streaks on the front guard

[marks]

As I have a center stand and can support the handle bars from the carport roof it should be 'do-able' so I'll give it a go on Saturday.

Thanks for the answers.

[warewolf]

Go under the head stock of the frame, not the handlebars. The handlebars have to come off, separated from the top triple clamp or not.

I'm sure you would have figured that out. ;)

[marks]

steering head bearings all cleaned and greased (were a tiny bit loose)
sparkly new set of 606's fitted
new fork oil and intimininimanaminator thingys fitted

what a difference the intiminy thingys make (thanks oh nordick one for the write up that made me try them)

the klr had horrendous fork dive under brakes - its simply gone. Front has firmed up a bit - don't think I'll need spacers or stronger springs now. Be interesting to see what its like off road.

all ready for mmmm :yes:
roll on Friday the 24th

[NordieBoy]

steering head bearings all cleaned and greased (were a tiny bit loose)
sparkly new set of 606's fitted
new fork oil and intimininimanaminator thingys fitted

what a difference the intiminy thingys make (thanks oh nordick one for the write up that made me try them)

the klr had horrendous fork dive under brakes - its simply gone. Front has firmed up a bit - don't think I'll need spacers or stronger springs now. Be interesting to see what its like off road.

Finally put the Eibach springs in the front today with 10mm of preload. Will see how they compare tomorrow.

[Padmei]

Some goodies in Aussie

Advrider fleamarket (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10318291&postcount=119)

[marks]

I think a descent bash plate is next on my list.....

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[Eddieb]

Woodman ya slackass

Where's the pics of the new improved tank etc.

Get some pics up while it's still in it's original un-woodmanised shape. :Pokey:

[NordieBoy]

At least they didn't loose the drain plug.

[Woodman]

Woodman ya slackass

Where's the pics of the new improved tank etc.

Get some pics up while it's still in it's original un-woodmanised shape. :Pokey:

Um try post number 143 on this thread. And some Nordie vid today on nelson Rideouts.

[Woodman]

raised the needle on the carb yesterday, they call it the 22 cent mod in the states, but mitre ten sell the washers for 7 cents, but couldn't bring meself to buy only one so got 6.

Klrs are so bloody esy to work on and had it in in no time, and also drilled the slide hole. First test ride she would not rev at all hhmmm. Rode home pulled the top off again and found nothing so decided that I musta got the diaphraghm in wrong so paid more attention the second time.
Second test was good, and there seems to be more throttle response, but a decent ride will tell. Have done no airbox mods except remove the snorkel and the pipe is standard still.

Also figured out why me brakes are crapper than usual.
Because i have the handlebars a long way forward the throttle cables bash into the fairing so I put them under the bars and swapped the starter and brake around on the bar. Problem is that that when you pull the brake in you pull close to the pivot therefore the leverage is crap and 2 finger braking is near impossible. Nordie pointed out the other day that the brakes were shit but I think I had just got used to it.

[Padmei]

So you got better throttle response? I've yet to do that mod but a bit of extra oomph off the line would be good.
Went for a short cruise last nite (as per ticket post), turned a corner & accelerating away thought something was wrong as it didn't take off that well. Checked the fuel tap & changed down then looked up & saw all the flags flying absolutely horizontally - it was the horrendous southerly blowing 10K bastards head on to the metre square perpex screen:laugh:

[Woodman]

So you got better throttle response? I've yet to do that mod but a bit of extra oomph off the line would be good.
Went for a short cruise last nite (as per ticket post), turned a corner & accelerating away thought something was wrong as it didn't take off that well. Checked the fuel tap & changed down then looked up & saw all the flags flying absolutely horizontally - it was the horrendous southerly blowing 10K bastards head on to the metre square perpex screen:laugh:

Time will tell if or how much difference it makes, but the wind stopped me from doing road tests today for the reason you mentioned.

Gonna try with the airbox door off etc to see if more air is worth it, although I would rather have less power than compromise river crossing depth.

[Padmei]

Been thinking about throttle respnse after yesterday as I hit some ice over the whangas whilst overtaking. The back did a microscopic sideways slide enough for me to think "cool it & don't do anything silly" the guy following me on a Modded XTXR 660 gave it a tiny bit of throttle that started him all over the road.
This got me thinking that in a great deal of situations I've been in better throttle response would prob land me in deep deep doodoo. Where do you reckon it would actually help? Obviously if you're totally in control of the stuation it is nice...

[Padmei]

This looks real nice (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-212024380.htm)

[NordieBoy]

Been thinking about throttle respnse after yesterday as I hit some ice over the whangas whilst overtaking. The back did a microscopic sideways slide enough for me to think "cool it & don't do anything silly" the guy following me on a Modded XTXR 660 gave it a tiny bit of throttle that started him all over the road.
This got me thinking that in a great deal of situations I've been in better throttle response would prob land me in deep deep doodoo. Where do you reckon it would actually help? Obviously if you're totally in control of the stuation it is nice...

I did a nice 90 deg slide up there yesterday too.
Well it felt like 90 deg...

Better throttle response may land you in the doodoo sometimes but it's all the other times when it's so useful...

Hmmm... That softer throttle response may be a reason for the KLR's better fuel economy than the DR?

[warewolf]

Better throttle response gives the rider more control. Remember the throttle works both ways; if the rear starts to spin up it can be easier to feather the throttle if it is responsive than if you need lots of elbow action to make subtle differences.

Sluggish throttle response makes for a more relaxed ride, whereas a snappy throttle is more engaging. Clutch & throttle control is an under-rated skill.

[Woodman]

The time I mostly want better throttle response is when coming out of tight gravelly corners when having the back spin up and come out a bit is useful for getting round the corner. Generally the rider will give the throttle that the situation requires, so if your response is better you will get used to it and either take advantage or not.

Took mine to work this morning (need heated grips) and am damn sure that raising the needle has made a difference now.

[Padmei]

Interesting -bit of a chicken & egg conumdron- do you need the skill first to ride excellently with a snappy throttle or will the snappy throttle improve your skills? hmm

[Padmei]

Hmmm... That softer throttle response may be a reason for the KLR's better fuel economy than the DR?

Are all DRs snappy & all KLRs softer though?

[Woodman]

Interesting -bit of a chicken & egg conumdron- do you need the skill first to ride excellently with a snappy throttle or will the snappy throttle improve your skills? hmm

at the end of the day it is still a klr and it ain't gonna throw you off the back.

[Big Dave]

I have done 800km and lots of dirt roads on the long term Kiwirider KLR this week.

I ferkin' love it.

It's the most 'me' single I've ridded since my SR500 in 1977.

It's actually the first one I have liked since then. They've been sticking me on 'Ready to Race' - the bikes might be, but I'm not. I just like plonking along on the dirt. Stopping to take photos and relaxing a bit.

I like the way the KLR is not at all harsh - in fact it's very easy going. Spool it up and it rawks OK. It's good on the freeway, State Highway or a single track.

The shittier the road the more pleasantly it handles it.

Really neat bike.

[Woodman]

Like Nordie said when he rode mine the other week "It does nothing fast does it"

[Padmei]

Like Nordie said when he rode mine the other week "It does nothing fast does it"

Kinda like Nordie really:shutup:

[NordieBoy]

Kinda like Nordie really:shutup:

I'll do a pithy reply in the morning when I've had some time to think one up...

[Big Dave]

I'll do a pithy reply in the morning when I've had some time to think one up...

Ah, a pith off.

[warewolf]

will the snappy throttle improve your skills? hmmYes. Either that, or you'll hate it.:bleh: Some ppl go to a lot of trouble to tone down bikes with a snappy response (usually efi or 2t bikes).


at the end of the day it is still a klr and it ain't gonna throw you off the back.Off the side, maybe


Ah, a pith off.One of my fave The Far Side cartoons is the woman saying to the man, "You're driving like you've been pithed or something!" (I had to look it up, too.)

[marks]

I have done 800km and lots of dirt roads on the long term Kiwirider KLR this week.

I ferkin' love it.



you going to do a bike test on it it in Kiwirider?

[Big Dave]

you going to do a bike test on it it in Kiwirider?

Just finished 1200 words.

[JATZ]

Yebut, they're Ugly !



:dodge:

[Woodman]

Yebut, they're Ugly !



:dodge:

C, mon you can do better than that.

[Woodman]

Oh I forgot, if there are any pre 08 klr riders out there who have helmet buffeting issues and want a quick fix.

Remove the screen (preferably on purpose) problem solved.

[Padmei]

Yebut, they're Ugly !



:dodge:

Thats a pretty pathetic effort Jatz:no:

Anyway what ya doing in the KLR thread - The DR one must be pretty boring for ya to stick ya nose in here:bleh:

[JATZ]

Thats a pretty pathetic effort Jatz:no:

Anyway what ya doing in the KLR thread - The DR one must be pretty boring for ya to stick ya nose in here:bleh:

Honestly, I couldnt think of any thing else, Theyre probly O.K. OMG, did I just say that Just ugly IMHO

[marks]

Yes. Either that, or you'll hate it.:bleh: Some ppl go to a lot of trouble to tone down bikes with a snappy response (usually efi or 2t bikes).

Even with all the normal carb tweaks the KLR never becomes 'snappy' - too much flywheel for that I suspect. I hated the lean EFI jerkiness of my XT660 and love the 'easy going' throttle response of the klr



Just finished 1200 words.

will look forward to reading it - too many reviewers try and compare it to some unspoken but assumed 'hard core ideal' (ktm 690?) where as it really is in a laid back league of its own. A poor mans Dakar is the closest I can come.


Yebut, they're Ugly

It's all part of the character - as I've said before - its the 'Labrador who farts under the dinner table' of adventure bikes - it may occasionally embarrass you but you love it and wouldn't want to be without it.

after 1700km this last weekend through all sorts of roads and tracks in all sorts of weather I couldn't be happier

[Padmei]

I have to admit recently feeling a bit inadequate with my bike, what with all the talk of fast bikes & super sharp suspension with awesome handling etc.

That was until last weekend when I cruised effortlessly enjoying the lovely handling around the twisting black tar of queen charlotte drive on the Saturday then blasting the next day along the forest tracks in Hira. I couldn't have been happier on anything else.

It's not fast nor super reponsive but really comfortable & to be honest perfect for my abilities & style of riding.

As for the ugliness factor - well can't help anyone there with that - I just really like the way it looks:love::love::love::love:

[pete376403]

People who say KLRs are ugly are probably the same ones who say the new Tenere looks "cool".
Beauty is definitely in the eye of the beholder.

Anyway WTF have looks got to do with how the bike goes, handles, stops, carries people or costs to run? Apart from the poseurs, isn't that what we buy bikes for?

[JATZ]

People who say KLRs are ugly are probably the same ones who say the new Tenere looks "cool".
Beauty is definitely in the eye of the beholder.

Anyway WTF have looks got to do with how the bike goes, handles, stops, carries people or costs to run? Apart from the poseurs, isn't that what we buy bikes for?

Had a look at the new Ten. and it doesn't do anything for me.Guess I'm a posuer then, the Big is 21 yrs old, with 21 y/old technology, but I wouldn't get rid of it.


.It's not fast nor super reponsive but really comfortable & to be honest perfect for my abilities & style of riding.

As for the ugliness factor - well can't help anyone there with that - I just really like the way it looks:love::love::love::love:

What ever floats your boat, TBH the bike suits you, somewhat "quirky"


its the 'Labrador of adventure bikes

What......... It's a Dog...........is that what your saying MarkS :Pokey:

[Woodman]

the Big is 21 yrs old, with 21 y/old technology, but I wouldn't get rid of it.

My KLR is 4 years old with 21 year old technology.

[pete376403]

Had a look at the new Ten. and it doesn't do anything for me.Guess I'm a posuer then, the Big is 21 yrs old, with 21 y/old technology, but I wouldn't get rid of it.:
Unless you bought the Big as a fashion accessory, purely for what it looks like without regard to how it performs, and your perception of how others see you, then I guess you wouldn't be classed as a poseur.

Appearance was probably the last thing I rated the KLR on when I bought it.

[marks]

What......... It's a Dog...........is that what your saying MarkS :Pokey:

its a dog that stopped before it ran over a downed dr big in the gold fields and its a dog that did a half pie reasonable charge over the Takaka Hill

[Big Dave]

No ugly bikes - just unimaginative photogs.

[NordieBoy]

its a dog that stopped before it ran over a downed dr big in the gold fields and its a dog that did a half pie reasonable charge over the Takaka Hill

Mmmmmm.....
Half a pie.....

[NordieBoy]

The DR Big is sooo ugly it's gone out the other end of ugly and into cool.

[marks]

The DR Big is sooo ugly it's gone out the other end of ugly and into cool.

actually a DR big has more in common with a klr than a dr650

[NordieBoy]

actually a DR big has more in common with a klr than a dr650

But the KLR hasn't been out long enough to fall completely through ugly into coolness yet.

It's weird riding an 08 KLR.
The front feels so big and heavy but you know those fairyings weigh fcuk all. Strip them off and go for a ride and you'd swear you'd just removed 50kg by the way it feels.

Same with my Nordies. Swapping from one to the other and the one without the 500g fairing gave the impression of being a lot lighter.

[pete376403]

500g? Shit, on a KLR thats just the decals!

[Big Dave]

http://www.davidcohen.co.nz/

[pete376403]

Nice writing. I wouldn't disagree with a single thing you've put there.

Now wait for the howls of outrage from the riders of the other brands....

[Waihou Thumper]

Nice writing. I wouldn't disagree with a single thing you've put there.

Now wait for the howls of outrage from the riders of the other brands....

Nada from me, I agree, good write up, this would have been my second choice anyway given the nice big tank and that the UN and US Army have been using them for donkies....even made diesel ones too as seen on YouTube...thanks for the link to the write-up. :third:

[Waihou Thumper]

http://www.davidcohen.co.nz/


Good stuff and well written....

[Padmei]

actually a DR big has more in common with a klr than a dr650
Was thinking exactly the same thing.



http://www.davidcohen.co.nz/

Hey Dave it's just like you were riding my bike. Pete is right tho - it won't be long before the non-KLRers start fizzing.

[marks]

http://www.davidcohen.co.nz/

nice to read a review by someone who really 'gets it'

The Derek Zoolander Bike For Riders Who Don't Want To Ride Fast And Wanna Learn To Do Other Stuff Good Too

[Big Dave]

That's the copy I submitted to KR.
With some nice photos that yo'll need to buy the next edition for. :done:

[Woodman]

Agree, and said it before that if I had the internet before I got a new bike I wouldn't have got one.

[marks]

any of you ladies know where I could buy a klr bashplate locally or in aussie?
B&B don't make one and nor do Whipps

plenty in the states but postage is expensive

and yes I know i can get one made but I would prefer to buy one if possible

[JATZ]

http://www.davidcohen.co.nz/

:niceone:


Unless you bought the Big as a fashion accessory, purely for what it looks like without regard to how it performs,

I'd never even seen one before when I bought mine online, without even seeing it in the flesh, Purely on the way it looked, just lucky it fitted and suits my riding style


its a dog that stopped before it ran over a downed dr big in the gold fields and its a dog that did a half pie reasonable charge over the Takaka Hill

Yeah O.K. point taken, BUT I didn't have sparks flying from the bottom of mine, it was jhust a leisurly cruise:2guns:


The DR Big is sooo ugly it's gone out the other end of ugly and into cool.

Yay, I've got a cool bike :Punk: I'm not gunna let you forget you said that

[warewolf]

http://www.davidcohen.co.nz/Nice. I think a source of the friction between the factions is 'horses for courses'.


Agree, and said it before that if I had the internet before I got a new bike I wouldn't have got one.Internet, schminternet. :bleh:

The internet is just a communication tool. I've bought bikes of all persuasions with research on the internet - and elsewhere. Lots of static - lots of ppl claimed the orange machines were unreliable, but it doesn't take long to find plenty of examples of machines labelled "as reliable as grandfather's axe" with, ah, let's just say broken handles and blunt blades.

Buy the one you lay awake at night dreaming about...

[CrazyFrog]

I admit it, I'm a closet KLR owner (or was one for a while anyway).
Owned this one from 1998 to 2000, it was a 1997 model. I liked the styling of these earlier ones, they were more like the dirt bike KLX650 variant, than the newer model KLR's chunky lines that seem to have evolved.
I rode just about everywhere on road tyres or Deathwings, and must admit, it went just about anywhere I chose to take it, no problems. It did have a bloody hard seat though, which was comparable to the DRZ I've got now.
I sold it to buy a BMW F650 (bah, blasphemy!!) which was simply a short comfortable pig. It never did anything wrong so to speak, but it just didn't light my fires. BMW - Boring Man's Wheels I called it.:yawn: For a while there, I regretted selling the KLR, because it was such fun and had a nice crackly exhaust note. I think someone in Nelson still has it tucked away somewhere, I see it every now and then.:crybaby:

[marks]

Buy the one you lay awake at night dreaming about...

hmmmmm (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=232676477).....

I'm not so sure that is always a good idea :eek5:


I admit it, I'm a closet KLR owner

That's a nice looking bike - better looking than the pre 08 models

[Woodman]

hmmmmm (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=232676477).....

I'm not so sure that is always a good idea :eek5:



That's a nice looking bike - better looking than the pre 08 models

Always wanted one of them.

[twotyred]

hmmmmm (http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=232676477).....

I'm not so sure that is always a good idea :eek5:




Always wanted one of them.

don't read this then,it might push you over the edge :scooter:
Neduro waxes lyrical (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9963975&postcount=74)

[Woodman]

don't read this then,it might push you over the edge :scooter:
Neduro waxes lyrical (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9963975&postcount=74)

Basatrd, that made me feel like I feel when I look at the blanked out switches in me work car. This one does the job but if i was prepared to work a bit harder I could have the model where all the switches work.

Those 950 se's would be the ultimate for me but the klr goes through tyres pretty rapidly, what is a 950 gonna do?

I like neduros comment that it feels like you are riding down hill all day (nice).

[bart]

Basatrd, that made me feel like I feel when I look at the blanked out switches in me work car. This one does the job but if i was prepared to work a bit harder I could have the model where all the switches work.

Those 950 se's would be the ultimate for me but the klr goes through tyres pretty rapidly, what is a 950 gonna do?

I like neduros comment that it feels like you are riding down hill all day (nice).

Don't do it Woodman. No one would keep up to you (with all that plastic falling off).

[Woodman]

Don't do it Woodman. No one would keep up to you (with all that plastic falling off).

Would have to train a flock of homing keas to look for orange plastic bits and fly them home.

[NordieBoy]

You could train the Keas to find and bring back KLR parts.

Pretty soon you'd have enough for a spare bike!

[Eddieb]

don't read this then,it might push you over the edge :scooter:
Neduro waxes lyrical (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9963975&postcount=74)

You should read that whole thread. He manage to put into words what goes often through my head when riding.

Except the one time i tried to express it to Paladin was a fair bit shorter and blunter than how he puts it.

[twotyred]

You should read that whole thread. He manage to put into words what goes often through my head when riding.

Except the one time i tried to express it to Paladin was a fair bit shorter and blunter than how he puts it.

Indeed I have,that's how I came across the above piece... he certainly has a way with words and he can ride!.. bastard...

[Padmei]

Pah!! if KTMs were so good they would have their own thread.:shifty:

[Padmei]

For those looking at suspension upgrades check out what this guy has done - looks pretty excellent to me

http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=69348

[NordieBoy]

For those looking at suspension upgrades check out what this guy has done - looks pretty excellent to me

http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=69348

The Moab shock is done by the same guy as the fully adjustable DR shock re-build.

He does good stuff.

[Eddieb]

New big bore kit for the KLR

For MarkS once he gets sick of his

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/bLtmFwlLvbM&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/bLtmFwlLvbM&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

[Padmei]

Could have done with some better footage. Photos would have been more informative, however I guess it goes - well for 100m anyway.

Took mine for a cruise up the Maunga last evening to see if inserting the Mitsi valve springs into the forks would make much difference. I think that it definitely hardened things up as I could feel all the smaller rocks I was running over. I didn't bottom out the front though which was good (the back is another story).

I don't know if it improved my riding or not as I was having one of those rides where the track just seems to move around to where you want to be headed.

[marks]

New big bore kit for the KLR
For MarkS once he gets sick of his.

Now if it was a TDM900 engine I would be getting all hot and bothered.....


Took mine for a cruise up the Maunga last evening to see if inserting the Mitsi valve springs into the forks would make much difference. I think that it definitely hardened things up as I could feel all the smaller rocks I was running over. I didn't bottom out the front though which was good (the back is another story).

The iniminators that Nordie fitted to the DR are awesome - really made a massive improvement the the klr - like the front is glued to the ground - cost about $300nz landed.

[Moki]

New big bore kit for the KLR

For MarkS once he gets sick of his

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/bLtmFwlLvbM&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/bLtmFwlLvbM&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

I hope he did the rear subframe bolt upgrade....

[marks]

I hope he did the rear subframe bolt upgrade....

visions of the subframe ripping off under hard acceleration and disappearing up the rider backside come to mind.

[Moki]

visions of the subframe ripping off under hard acceleration and disappearing up the rider backside come to mind.

Yes!!! :laugh: