ducatilover's squidtastic pile of crap

[ducatilover]

A wonky triple? Is that like when you've had a tipple? :confused:
Only if had anticlockwise?

It'll fire 1/4 - 2 - nothing - 3
Should be a giggle eh?

[banditrider]

Time for more inspiration...a nice triple...

276501

[Drew]

I'll buy what's left when the crank snaps bro. Got a wrecker mate who Will do a deal on some stuff I need.

[ducatilover]

Time for more inspiration...a nice triple...


That is rather a bit tasty innit?

I'll buy what's left when the crank snaps bro. Got a wrecker mate who Will do a deal on some stuff I need.

I knew you'd have my back...

[Drew]

I knew you'd have my back...I know I'm a negative prick, but you'd be much better off having the crank assembled to run cross plane.

You will gain the midrange you want that way, and the casings wont be taking massively increased forces on the one and four combined power stroke.

[ducatilover]

I know I'm a negative prick, but you'd be much better off having the crank assembled to run cross plane.

You will gain the midrange you want that way, and the casings wont be taking massively increased forces on the one and four combined power stroke.

It would sound like God too.
We all know I'm a bit soft in the brain, so I'll probably be doing this BB3 anyway.
It'll take 20 minutes to smash the primary gears compared to 10 min on a big bang, pretty good value really. :facepalm:


Just in the process of finding my tools I made to do the new forks
I've managed to get a set of ZXR400H2-3 units, so they have the better valving and shit, plus better adjusters
The legs/stanchions are identical, but the lowers/axle and internals are different
So, I'll chuck the polished lowers from the 400H1 forks on and whatever two chromes are the best and I won't have the front end of a heffalump any more

Oh, other reason to stick my polished lowers on is the custom work Bogan did on 'em with the brakes and speedo drive

ZXR400L clutch cable is on now, perfect fit.
Need a new lever perch though, mines a bit fucked where the adjuster goes in

[ducatilover]

I'm going to focus on sorting the ergonomics on this horrid thing, it's not exactly a commodious vehicle :facepalm:

I've been considering a set of flat/drag bars (probably gold ones, coz gold is bling)
I'll be doing a atil swap, I do love the 'Prillia tail, but to fit it with a comfy foam seat and make it look good, is going to be a mission and it won't look as tasty :mellow:

I rode to Bunnythorpe and back this weekend, and I really have to throw the forks away, they're shit.
The low bars work very well when I get carried away in the bends, but the may be a little far forward.
The seat to peg distance is perfect.
The speedo bust another cable, or the drive has shat itself, brand new cable in it and it's not working anymore... I think that's the third or fourth time. The angle of the drive is out under hard throttle, because of my heffalump damping in the front, so I'll look at a simple digital dash, a small one to keep it clean looking.

No matter where I set the (useless) damping on the rear, it's still feels over damped and over sprung, but it may be the lack of seat.

Engine's beautiful though, got a set of #148 main jets, needles up 1mm and re-sync'd the carbs, pulls very well and has a noticeable increase in the top end, which makes progress very illegal... :Punk: didn't miss a beat the whole time, temp stayed at a solid 80 degrees of the Pahiatua track both times

So, in my head it's relatively small and fun things to sort on it.
Time to spend money I don't have!!!! (I've run out of work again) :no:

[ducatilover]

I was doing a load of stuff in the magic polish machine thing, so I chucked one of my fork tops in from the new forks I got
It's at the middle stage, this shit will be ultimate bling.

277901277902277903

Been eying an SV tail unit up, it's a good price (for NZ...) so, maybe I'll have me one of them

[ducatilover]

Rear wheel's off, painted. Going to clear it tonight
Subframe etc painted too
But, I have found some fucking big gouges on the LHS inner of the swing arm, one is a good 4mm deep :facepalm: fucked if I know how that's happened

278323278324 and a nice big dent in there too :no:

[Drew]

Are you sure you should be working with tools?

That has been caused by the chain getting jammed between the sprocket and swing arm.

Possible to happen when pushing a bike with the chain not on the front sprocket for whatever reason.

[ducatilover]

Are you sure you should be working with tools?

That has been caused by the chain getting jammed between the sprocket and swing arm.

Possible to happen when pushing a bike with the chain not on the front sprocket for whatever reason.

Float on the carrier bearing and the sleeve on the axle.
New bearing (coz I have shit like that in my shed) and I'll get a new spacer turned up

It's never been pushed around with a chain like that, because it'd drag on the polished bits :innocent:

[ducatilover]

Boom, problem sorted.
That is a scary one though, I'm glad nothing bad happened at speed :shit:

My rim has been shot....with clear coat.
Going to polish the nuts and whatnot, measure my shock up for the new one and might paint the rear brake bracket and brace black, for a wee bit of contrast

FUN TIMES!!!!!!

[ducatilover]

Bogan is the man, he turned up a new spacer for my cush drive, so I'll re-assemble the arse end when I pick it up :Punk:

Cleaned the rim, painted blah blah. Little spit and polish, don't want a mirror finish on it.https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/529723_10151422130137593_1195710452_n.jpg

[Drew]

Polished lip is just fuckin lazy. Polish it all or don't bother I reckon.

[ducatilover]

Polished lip is just fuckin lazy. Polish it all or don't bother I reckon.

:laugh: I like 'em like that. I don't have a clock around my neck, so can't pull off full polished rims

[ducatilover]

Right, while being pedantic and repainting all the silver bits black I decided to play with the seat I'm making.
I'm going to make a new subframe for this, the current on is strong, but the seat mount is ghey and weak. the current subby also hangs too low, so I may as well do it even prettier with some round tube :niceone:
So I'll have to decide if I really want to ditch the tail unit, which I love dearly.

There's one model 'prillia RS with this tail unit, but there's a cut out for a seat, I like that idea muchly.
http://www.americancurls.com/dashofcolour/images/ApriliaRS250New1.jpg
So I'll try incorporate that. Also thinking about having a storage area in the tail, if I make a subby that'll accommodate the battery under the seat I'll have a heap of room
Soooooo... who would be nice enough to donate some steel and a mig :2thumbsup




And no, no I will never stop modifying it.

[toebug]

Never stop modifiying bro.........

[ducatilover]

Never stop modifiying bro.........

:niceone: That's what I think!

I love the feel of my MX bars from the GN on this, so maybe I'll drill the top clamp
May as well wait 'til I rip the forks out to put the new ones in :2thumbsup

[ducatilover]

Got the rear end put back together today :2thumbsup re-bled the rear brake and it's all happy
Bogan really saved the day whipping the new spacer up for the cush drive, give that guy a choccy fish! :cool:

I've cut out the seat hole from the tail unit, after looking at as many pics of RS250s with the same unit and seeing how they were shaped
Will make me a cool hot wire bow for cutting foam, make a seat base and then maybe be comfortable for a change

I had a laugh while cutting the glass tail, one of my cutting discs exploded on me and got acquainted with my skull, good thing my gorgeous blonde hair slowed it down eh :whistle:

[ducatilover]

:niceone: I lubs me a bargain, I do! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=569928177
We'll see where this goes eh? Will be up that way next week and be bringing 'em down in a few weeks when I get my cage back on teh road.

:headbang:Really only got it for the tail section, but I do love the Suzuka style front fairing. I'll give the belly pans away to anyone needing/wanting one because I probably won't use them (already have one or two belly pans in my dark parts corner lol)

Edit: 68 pages and I still haven't decided to finish the fucking thing yet, what the fuck is wrong with me? Been working on the tail on the GN today, but I'm going to be stripping the loom down on this one to re-loom it all, sick of the excessive wiring Kawasaki insists on

Sent from a victorious pose using a massive pube

[ducatilover]

Squidtastic piece of crap has changed direction a wee bit.

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/Image327_zps902893fa.jpg
http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/Image332_zps54f325cc.jpg
http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/Image331_zpsba3fce80.jpghttp://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/Image330_zps886f9dbb.jpghttp://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/Image329_zps55a4ac22.jpghttp://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/Image328_zps068c3647.jpg

The tail unit will be an easy fit
Front fairing is mounted to the original mount on the headstock, but it'll need more to hold up to my powaaahhh.

I like it muchly.

[bogan]

Neat!

Maybe could use a bellypan or something as the lines from the headlight fairing look a bit out of place maybe?

[ducatilover]

I have three or four belly pans here, so I'll be looking at fitting one :2thumbsup
It does look like it needs one

[dogsnbikes]

That set is a bargin and do like that style well done...

when you over in Wanga's next ?

[ducatilover]

That set is a bargin and do like that style well done...

when you over in Wanga's next ?

Yeah I'm over the moon, will upload more pics today sometime (have to take the little bro to the doc)
I've changed the angle of the tail so it's not so aggressive and mocked up an R1 belly pan, which I am completely in love with.

Sometime before next Thursday mate, I'll let you know :first:

[yod]

nice mate, very nice....needs more Hoooondaaaaaaaaaaaa though :)

[ducatilover]

Thanks Yod.
I will save Honda-ness for Hondas :D I do wish to buy another Honda

Anybody got thoughts on this idea, minus wood...
I think this tail position and the belly pan is pure win.:drool:
But, I wouldn't mind playing with the idea of side fairings


http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/Image333_zpsfacf8fd9.jpg
http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/Image335_zpse63c36dd.jpg
http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/Image334_zps29e8346c.jpg

This is by far the best $2.50 I have ever spent...
Actually, I gave the fellow $5, because I'm a generous cunt

[bogan]

looks good, needs more matte black though.

Also, did you paint your brake calipers white :spanking:

[ducatilover]

looks good, needs more matte black though.
You're right there :msn-wink:


Also, did you paint your brake calipers white :spanking:
:lol: errr slightly...
Don't fret, they're not staying white

Going to mount up teh belly pan this arvo I think. Unless I get distracted, as always
I initially thought it wouldn't look very good, but I'm 100% sold on it now.

Needs Dougcati decals...

[Grizzo]

Very nice, great work:niceone:

[imdying]

Really, what it wants is a lower fairing.

[ducatilover]

Really, what it wants is a lower fairing.

As in side fairings?
It'd certainly look good with them.

[AllanC]

Looking really sharp mate! keep it up!

[ducatilover]

Decided to try the new tail and belly with the old headlight :rolleyes: now I don't know what one I like better
What I do know is, that airbox is fucking ugly!!!!! I'm not a fan of pods on CV carbs, but I think a set of sexy unifoam pods in place of the faggoty airbox would be tasty?

Also, there's my beautiful beige and boring ovloV in the back ground. :tugger: http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/DSC00545_zpsdcb8701e.jpg (http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/dirtydoogle/media/DSC00545_zpsdcb8701e.jpg.html)
http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/DSC00544_zps064f3adc.jpg (http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/dirtydoogle/media/DSC00544_zps064f3adc.jpg.html) http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/DSC00543_zps0400c299.jpg (http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/dirtydoogle/media/DSC00543_zps0400c299.jpg.html) http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/DSC00542_zps5f96d2bc.jpg (http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/dirtydoogle/media/DSC00542_zps5f96d2bc.jpg.html) http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/DSC00541_zps7d487843.jpg (http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/dirtydoogle/media/DSC00541_zps7d487843.jpg.html) http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/DSC00540_zps93d87f4f.jpg (http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/dirtydoogle/media/DSC00540_zps93d87f4f.jpg.html) http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd379/dirtydoogle/DSC00539_zps894a3418.jpg (http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/dirtydoogle/media/DSC00539_zps894a3418.jpg.html)

[bogan]

I like that one better. Looking good man.

[The Reibz]

Fuuuarrrkkkkkkk. Seriously looking good bro.
Keep the airbox, pods and foam filters can be a absolute nightmare to tune properly and you always end up with small flatspots. Go injected and stick a turbo on it...
Change the overflow bottle to a neon blue flask or something and put a nos sticker on it for extra street cred.
It needs a nice rear hugger too, but only my opinion

[ducatilover]

I like that one better. Looking good man.
:headbang: Cheers
If you look carefully there's a chance an almost finished bros frame/swinger are in teh garage somewhere :cool:

Fuuuarrrkkkkkkk. Seriously looking good bro.
Keep the airbox, pods and foam filters can be a absolute nightmare to tune properly and you always end up with small flatspots. Go injected and stick a turbo on it...
Change the overflow bottle to a neon blue flask or something and put a nos sticker on it for extra street cred.
It needs a nice rear hugger too, but only my opinion

Cheers! Agree with all you points mate, I'm forever whinging to people about pods on CVs, but I may do it for the looks (total magpie...)
Can't afford EFI, and I'm a strange carb loving fella :lol: overflow bottle is a temp job, have something very different in the works

Turbo... haven't got the coin for it at the moment, unless somebody has a mega cheap IHI RHB31 floating around. :drool:
Hugger will get done once I find a nicer swing arm :first:

[The Reibz]

hahaha yeah im pro carbs too. They are just a real bitch to tune after you do something to the motor. Factorypro might do a jet kit for your bike, everything I hear about them from the FZR world sugests that they are better than Dynojet. From experience I find Dynojet kits to run a little rich, blackens my plugs on the street after about 100km.

[ducatilover]

hahaha yeah im pro carbs too. They are just a real bitch to tune after you do something to the motor. Factorypro might do a jet kit for your bike, everything I hear about them from the FZR world sugests that they are better than Dynojet. From experience I find Dynojet kits to run a little rich, blackens my plugs on the street after about 100km.

I've set mine up for the exhaust, filter and ign advancer it has
148 Keihin size mains
3 turns out, pilot screw
OEM pilot jets
9mm floats
1.5mm raised standard taper needles
:2thumbsup runs mint

Usually the ZZR6s get flat spots at 3-4 with a 4-1 but the floats and needles got rid of that, it pulls cleanly from idle with no stumbling or flatspots now, the advancer helped a fair bit in the midrange too (being a 4cyl 600 it has no midrange anyway)

The needle Dynojet does for mine is soft and wears real quick :lol: but I've never bothered buying a full jet kit, cheaper to buy the jets myself ($6 ea) and shim the needles, somehow I've never had to change taper on my needles. Must be lucky

[ducatilover]

:facepalm:

May be overdue for an update.
Built a new set of forky things.
New speedo set up (frenched in to the headlight I think is the correct term)
New idiot lights
New bushings for the rearsets.

Still waiting for a mate... to do the subframe, but these things do take time.
Rebuilt the front brakes again, just because anything that came off to do the forks had to be perfect going on.

So after, what, two years? I have finished the front end :sick: Not very good progress

Really need the sbframe sorted, then it's all plain and easy sailing from there on.
I'll try get some pics up soon, but it doesn't really look different apart from having no tail at all and a few painted parts on the front

Needs turbo, too.
I have turbo.

[benhall]

dear lord... why do you have an aw11

[ducatilover]

Was the old flatmate's, not mine.
Cool cars, them.

[The Reibz]

[QUOTE=ducatilover;1130691372Needs turbo, too.
I have turbo.[/QUOTE]

Yeahhhhhhh Buddddyyyyyy
Still another 6 weeks before I will get my hands on mine. Still getting machined up in Canada. Tripple ceramic bearing for ultra fast spoolups

[ducatilover]

Yeahhhhhhh Buddddyyyyyy
Still another 6 weeks before I will get my hands on mine. Still getting machined up in Canada. Tripple ceramic bearing for ultra fast spoolups

Should have nice response with that kind of tastiness in it! What's the details on yours?
I have a CT9A that's needing a seal kit, it will most likely spool relatively well, but will run out of puff up top, or should be getting a KKK K04 off a mate. The K04 isn't terribly good quality, but they're quite small. A K03 wouldn't pull well on a 600, so I expect the k04 will do well. Will have to hunt down some boost maps and have a think

I'd be happy with something that makes max boost around the 6k mark, but it's only a small motor at the end of the day :weep:

I have a fuel pump for it, no adj rising rate reg yet, can get a BOV for nothing. We'll see how it goes, may be down the pipe line yet, I want to get the GN finished asap.

[benhall]

what ecu do you use?

[The Reibz]

This is my parts list. Hopefully shipping out from from RCC in the next couple of days. Can't wait to get my hands on it.


High spec custom machined competition turbocharger (Triple Ceramic Ball Bearing, good for 500hp)
Wossner 81mm Forged Pistons (9.1)
Wossner Chrome Moly Connecting Rods
No Limits Racing boost compensating clutch (custom made)
APE High Performance Headstuds
APE Rod Studs
110psi Oil Pump Gear
Oil Cooler Eliminator
Heavy duty Gearbox output shaft, shift rods and sprocket
Vance and Hines Drag Spec cam chain
APE Adjustable cam sprockets
APE 65lbs Valve Springs
APE Bronze Valve Guides
APE Titanium Valve Retainers
APE Prostreet chain tensioner
62lbs MPS Fuel injectors
Custom RCC billet fuel rail
AEM Alcohol injection kit
Schnitz Racing Heavy Duty Cush Drive Dampener
.080 Base Spacer
Cometic Gaskets all round

Next Upgrades:
Link G4+ Storm ECU
8 inch over bolt on Swing arm extensions
Galfer Rotors and lines
EK Drag Chain
Supersprox Rear Sprocket


This has cost me a fortune and my Retirement Super took a huge hit, but I would rather ride a sick bike now than have that money in 40 years when im old and broken.

My turbo was custom made by Competition Turbos with a Billet compressor and turbine wheels and tripple ceramic ball bearings. Its good for upto 500hp on paper. I will be running a set of 62lbs injectors through a billet fuel rail on a 1:1 FPR. Was going to go down the Rising Rate route but decided against it because in the long run I want to go intercooled for a bit more boost.

If your serious about turboing your 600 maybe look at what guys are doing with the 1l Dihatsus and shit. A small turbo from a Legacy (VF13?) would probably be a good size. It would need to be dynod and have a custom ECU fitted. Old power commanders map off TPS/RPM where as the newer ones come with a optional Map Sensor for Pressure/Temp mapping.

I have read into this stuff alot, can't wait to get my hands dirty and start on the build.

[ducatilover]

This is my parts list. Hopefully shipping out from from RCC in the next couple of days. Can't wait to get my hands on it.



This has cost me a fortune and my Retirement Super took a huge hit, but I would rather ride a sick bike now than have that money in 40 years when im old and broken.

My turbo was custom made by Competition Turbos with a Billet compressor and turbine wheels and tripple ceramic ball bearings. Its good for upto 500hp on paper. I will be running a set of 62lbs injectors through a billet fuel rail on a 1:1 FPR. Was going to go down the Rising Rate route but decided against it because in the long run I want to go intercooled for a bit more boost.
That's a hella nice list you have there!


If your serious about turboing your 600 maybe look at what guys are doing with the 1l Dihatsus and shit. A small turbo from a Legacy (VF13?) would probably be a good size. It would need to be dynod and have a custom ECU fitted. Old power commanders map off TPS/RPM where as the newer ones come with a optional Map Sensor for Pressure/Temp mapping.

I have read into this stuff alot, can't wait to get my hands dirty and start on the build.
K04 will be more efficient that a VJ13, those early VF and VJ have pretty poor designed wheels and housings, may as well run the CT9A if I was going basic. If I were to use a VF turbo, you can pick up VF10s fairly cheap, but same story really. The K04 will spool better than a VF10 on the 600, purely due to better designed wheels and lighter weight
A GT25 series would be ideal for the ol' 600 though
I have carbs. No need for ECUs :cool: CVKs are easy enough to set up as a blow through system. Already have a 4 deg ignition retarder I made (have a stock, +4 and a -4)
Which will take it back to 16BTDC static, I can go back more if need be, but the head is very well designed and should reduce most of the risk of detonation.
As for boost, would stick to 6psi max on a non intercooled carby pig, will be running 1 psi fuel over intake pressure in to it and with the 8mm float needles I wouldn't push more than 7psi comfortably (would need to retrofit some 10mm ones out of a late CBR900) and wouldn't want anything horrid happening to intake temps (although atomising fuel under boost in a carb motor cools a significant amount, still not cool)

Getting mixtures right is a walk in the park (not really... but still not hard) run the carb bowl vent in to the intake before the plenum, and I'll be running an air bleed or just an inline air jet, adjusting the volume of air and pressure will take care of the AFRs. Bit of a road tune and have it running low 11afrs to keep it safe and we'll be making a wee bit more power over stock.
If it made 130whp I would be pretty happy (not much, but who cares, it's cool!)

One bonus is the ZX6D engine in mine had stronger internals than the identical looking ZX6E motor (the ramair ZZR600), they're a bit heavier (thicker across the gudgeon, heavier pistons, bigger bottom and main journals) so it's as tough as an old shitter gets.
I may consider running a ;aser cute 1mm base gasket to lower compression, but I will need vernier slotted camgears to get the timing all hunky dory again, so that's not on the plans yet

[The Reibz]

Fuck sounds like you have done some serious research bro.
If you are worried about intake temps you could always install a water/alc injection kit. Pretty much a band aid for low boost applications but it will help reduce the chance of detonation.

How do carb diaphrams react under boost? Can't imagine the extra pressure would be good for them. I have seen throttle plates on prostreet busas which have been bent backwards from boost presures after the throttle is snapped shut. All the more reason to buy a top of the line BOV if you are running those sorts of presures.

The builder that sourced me all my parts put his 500hp+ busa on the dyno yesterday and burnt out the tyre ON THE DYNO. After changing the tyre from a shinko hook up to the standard bridgestone that comes with the busa, the bike gained nearly 40hp. Totally crazy the numbers that guys are pushing for in the states. I only wish we could have a scene like that here...

[Drew]

Tyres wear out on the dyno all the time. The rollers are super abrasive because of the gnurled steel surface. Changing from a softer compound sticky tyre will always lower the reading because of the extra drag where they wrap around roller more.

Diaphragm crabs work best if ya can just build a box right around the whole lot. In theory they shouldn't need jets, but because the high point volume is increased then needles with a steeped taper and bigger mains are the go...or just run the thing rich till it spools up.

[ducatilover]

Fuck sounds like you have done some serious research bro.
If you are worried about intake temps you could always install a water/alc injection kit. Pretty much a band aid for low boost applications but it will help reduce the chance of detonation. I think I read something once and used a spanner twice :innocent:
Water or alcohol would be neat, but I don't have room to fit a reasonable res for it, so won't be doing that. Intake temps should be okay with the K04 and lower boost, otherwise I will just build a cooler for it (did one for a project once, half an R32 GTS-T cooler with custom tanks made up, worked well).
The biggest issue for me is it ruins the relatively simple look of the bike :pinch:


How do carb diaphrams react under boost? Can't imagine the extra pressure would be good for them. I have seen throttle plates on prostreet busas which have been bent backwards from boost presures after the throttle is snapped shut. All the more reason to buy a top of the line BOV if you are running those sorts of presures. they're fine if you have a nice blow off valve set up and reasonable plenum size, they will just bust if you get any compressor surge, but that shouldn't be an issue on such low boost/CFMs.



The builder that sourced me all my parts put his 500hp+ busa on the dyno yesterday and burnt out the tyre ON THE DYNO. After changing the tyre from a shinko hook up to the standard bridgestone that comes with the busa, the bike gained nearly 40hp. Totally crazy the numbers that guys are pushing for in the states. I only wish we could have a scene like that here... The boost figures those guys are running is crazy. I like it




Diaphragm crabs work best if ya can just build a box right around the whole lot. In theory they shouldn't need jets, but because the high point volume is increased then needles with a steeped taper and bigger mains are the go...or just run the thing rich till it spools up.
Hence fucking with the carb bowl vents, eliminates the need to do stupid jetting so it works well off boost :yes:

[ducatilover]

Forgot to mention, modified the chain adjusters today, took them out to accept an m10x1.25, and due to the length of the bolt and needing no shank, I made my own bolts/thingies, then drilled and tapped an m6 thread on the end that is visible and put a stainless cap head in each one, which will have a wee bit of weld thrown on it, and smoothed off then polished. :cool: no more useless little Kawasaki adjusters! Will try find some brass nuts for them, just because I like pretty things

[ducatilover]

Finished the prototype subframe, happy with how it sits and fits

Started making teh wiring loom.
Coffee break pic :sunny:295421

Got a fair amount of wiring sorted today, about halfway through the whole loom.
There is a massive amount of useless shit in the loom. Like 500m of sidestand switch, clutch switch etc wires. All of them pesky pricks are gone now anyway, they're for BMW riders

[98tls]

Have to say i applaud your efforts mate good for you.

[ducatilover]

Cheers!
I took more pics on my phone, but I can't fuckin find them :weep: had pics with the tank on before I went mad with the loom
Once the loom is done, I'll give that subframe to a mate, he'll make a jig and zap a stainless one up, which will look fucking superb

[unstuck]

Messy fucker, clean your shed up.:innocent:

[ducatilover]

Messy fucker, clean your shed up.:innocent:

That is clean :crazy:

Got to the workshop at 6 this morning and kept looming, time for breakfast?
Got the RFID sorted and the self latching on the relay sorted too. Much tidier than previous versions I had going on there.
Power to everything is sorted too
Digi temp gauge works, may convert to a mechanical one in the future, don't trust digital shit.
Even mounted a horn.
Converted the GN light to run an H4 bulb
Need to find an LED strip for my speedo back lighting
Need to make the idiot light and volt gauge loom
Need to make my mind up on how and where I want the power switch for the RFID unit hooked up, don't want to have it constantly on as it could fry itself.
It's almost ready to wrap the loom up now :Punk: only a few hours away, then next week I will pull the carbs down, check everything, get oil pressure and start the beast for the first time in over a year (I think?)
The Motobatt is sitting at 12.06v and hasn't been used for however long the bike has been sitting :blink: fuckin excellent battery that!

Feels awesome to be making progress again.

[ducatilover]

It starts! Had to trick the inhibitor in the fuse box. It's a bunch of resistors and a relay that gets thrown when all the safety shit says it's okay to start (I removed the stand switch and clutch switch, who the fuck needs them)
Had to clean the carbs out as they'd been sitting so long.
Will dump more fresh gas in today, balance the carbs, finish the loom (idiot lights and indicators is all that's left) and make mounts for all the stuff under the seat, then I can get the real subframe done.

Still have many things to buy though, I want a new rear shock, have to weigh up the options but Haagon (sp?) seem to be okay priced.
Maybe mr Taylor can help, but the budget is tight unless I sell the Bandit.

Need a new radiator cap too, mine isn't opening