Hello guys, should it be ok to Epoxy glue to attach and then use KENAD-IT to re-enforce a broken rear brake lever and a broken front fairing stay (metal bit that holds the front fairing/screen/mirror up)?
and will it be ok for warrent?
thanks
Hello guys, should it be ok to Epoxy glue to attach and then use KENAD-IT to re-enforce a broken rear brake lever and a broken front fairing stay (metal bit that holds the front fairing/screen/mirror up)?
and will it be ok for warrent?
thanks
Cable ties and/or hemp rope are the only approved methods for this type of repair. It might pay to reinforce any repairs with a couple of ice block sticks for peace of mind.Originally Posted by Zapf
We're all fucked. I'm fucked. You're fucked. The whole department is fucked. It's the biggest cock-up ever. We're all completely fucked.
-Sir Richard Mottram
A true quality repair, if I do say so myself.Originally Posted by Mr Skid
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The art of being wise is knowing what to overlook.
Im not sure on this one, maybe better to buy a new one dont ya reckon ?? whats the state of it ? piccieKENAD-IT to re-enforce a broken rear brake lever
Ive run out of fucks to give
In true KK fashionOriginally Posted by Judderbar
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“- He felt that his whole life was some kind of dream and he sometimes wondered whose it was and whether they were enjoying it.”
But the thing is that Mr Shid is not joking....Originally Posted by Mr Skid
I've seen his bike
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i would reconmend that you replace them.
if you cant get the parts for a while (ie: 2 week back order from Japan) then maybe you could bodgie them until they arrive.
yeah... sorry bro, i thought that ment miles 'n hour.
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no no no no no,bloody hell NO.
What happens when it fails ??,an it will.
You gonn'a put your feet down an pray !!
Mate,buy a new one,PLEASE.
I don't want to read about what happens if you don't.![]()
Brake lever would fail. Apart from which, having the brake lever snap off at the wrong moment would ruin your day.Originally Posted by Zapf
Why not get them welded? If I was bakc in Akl, I would do it for you.
Geoff
(\_/)
(O.o)
(> <) Peace through superior firepower...
Build your own dyno - PM me for the link of if you want to use it (bring beer)
Even welding on a steel brake lever I would hesitate about. On an alloy lever definately not.Originally Posted by geoffm
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
Goodness. You, Sir are clearly a bodger from way back. Every good back yard mechanic knows that the correct material for this is No 8 fencing wire, reinforced with a bit of concrete reinforcing rod nicked from the construction site down the road . Cable ties indeed .Originally Posted by Mr Skid
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Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
I wouldn't recommend using glue + knead-it on any 'critical' component, especially the brakes. Where is the break in your rear brake lever? If it's the foot pad part of the lever broken off from the main shaft, you could replace it with a bolt. Mt Eden M-C do an after-market branded replacement which is only around $50 instead of the $100+ for the OEM.Originally Posted by Zapf
Find an alloy welder to repair the top fairing mount.
As for steel, that all depends on the weld. I think some people are a little over-suspicous/paranoid of welding. A good welder could probably make a stronger join than the rest of the component. I saw an engineering doco on some bridge parts where that was the case - the weld where 2 components joined was able to bear larger loads than the individual components themselves. It's all about how good the job is.Originally Posted by Ixion
Don't know much about alloy welding, so I'll stick to the paranoia with you on that one. My experience is: still not softening, a bit more flame, still not softening, a bit more flame, still not softening, a teensy bit more flame, *blob*, oh bugger I've melted the whole f'n thing now.
A good welder working with good steel can make a join that's stronger than the original metal. Thing here is the lever has (presumably) been snapped. That means the metal surrounding the break has been majorly stressed. What that has done it it's crystalline stucture is any mans guess (also I don't know if gear levers are heat treated at all. They werent in the old days, but who knows nowdays.) It's more complex (and thus more dodgy) than a nice clean saw cut joinOriginally Posted by Drunken Monkey
TIG welder can get good results in ali, but same caveat re stress loading by whatever broke it With gas when I was doing it regularly I could get pretty good results. Secret is to preheat, and remember that ali is hot short. As you say, boof, and it all collapses. And a *good* flux. But I really wouldn't want to do it on a part as critical and stressed as a brake lever. If necessary (vintage bike or something) I'd fabricate a new lever from scratch and weld in the cut off splined bit.
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
ok... so by the sounds of it no on the lever hur :P
Any good welders on here would do a fairing stay? I think its either alum or some alloy.
TS, where are you getting yours welded?
tkns.
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