Question about torquey big Vs

**varminter** · 1st May 2010, 20:19

Ok, the bike has been at the bike shop for three weeks, in that time they have not been able to duplicate the lurch/cutting out problem. The techo at Suzuki told me that "big v twins are a bit lumpy on low rev's" or words to that effect. The bike shop agreed. They also said they will up the idle speed to 1200 and adjust the lean mixture on low rev's. The problem was cutting out occasionally, usually going slow pootling up to lights etc. It got more lurchy (no such word) when I wound up the throttle from under 1000rpm to 1100. That's when it went GDUMPH and tossed me into the road.

So, what do big V twin riders say. Oh, yes I know there are much bigger one's out there but this is big to me.

**NighthawkNZ:Me** · 1st May 2010, 20:32

Low speed low get they can feel a bit as you say lurchy or feel lumpy (one of the characteristics of a vtwin) Me old vtr use to just cut out at the lights... that was a good sign for a services and tune. Get it done and it was fine after that...

While most vtwins can happily have the torque to take off in 2nd or 3rd but easier in 1st, moral just ensure you are in the correct gear around town.

**dipshit** · 1st May 2010, 20:40

What fuel are you running it on?

I ask because when I got my SV1000, at first it popped and stuttered at times. But after a few tank fulls of petrol (either 95 or 98) it came right.

I mentioned to the shop when it went in for its first service about the popping and stalling in the first couple of hundred ks. They mentioned that they had filled it up with 91 originally as their drum of 95 was empty at the time.

**Ixion** · 1st May 2010, 21:28

My Sv thou started doing something similar ( not the chucking off thou ) . Fixed with a cupful of meths in the tank. Water in the fuel

**Motu** · 1st May 2010, 22:24

Are these carbed or injected? TPS and other do hincky sensors can upset an injected bike,but a carbed bike should run smooth at low speeds....unless they are set up real lean for emission reasons.If you want to see how a V twin runs at low speeds check out a Harley....they idle a hell of a lot lower than 1200rpm.

**AllanB** · 1st May 2010, 22:41

A bit off ball this one but ............. is your chain adjusted correctly?

I've noticed on some bikes that if the chain is loose and you are poodling along very slowly as you describe you'll sometimes get backlash and jerking in the manner you describe. It's like the chain is slightly out of sync with the sprockets.

**Laava** · 1st May 2010, 22:57

They should idle at MIN 1200rpm, you need to check out stromtrooper.com as you are having the normal issues with your DL. Mine was terrible new, the 2nd one was even worse than the first but easily fixable. My 2nd bike just would stall when stopping and it needed an accurate TBS. Very easy to do and costs nothing. Other things like fitting a TRE will help, yanking the secondaries and possibly Power Commander? I already offered to fix it for you for nothing, but you would need to ride yourself up here to Whangarei

**davebullet** · 2nd May 2010, 07:58

On the SV650 it pays to do 2 things:
1. Throttle position sensor adjustment. This delivers more fuel just off idle which smooths the applicaiton of the throttle - removing the jerkiness. Factory was set to deliver more fuel about 3,000 rpm on mine which made the bike splutter off lower revs
2. Install a timing retardation eliminator. I don't know on the stroms / 1000 motors, but the 650 motor retards timing in the first 3 (?) gears. I found by restoring the timing advance in all gears (Except when in neutral), the bike is smoother off the line in 1st and through the gears. I also reckon I get 3-5% fuel economy improvement.

PM me or let me know here if you want posts to the relevant topics above.

**TripleZee Dyno** · 2nd May 2010, 08:07

Originally Posted by varminter

Ok, the bike has been at the bike shop for three weeks, in that time they have not been able to duplicate the lurch/cutting out problem. The techo at Suzuki told me that "big v twins are a bit lumpy on low rev's" or words to that effect. The bike shop agreed. They also said they will up the idle speed to 1200 and adjust the lean mixture on low rev's. The problem was cutting out occasionally, usually going slow pootling up to lights etc. It got more lurchy (no such word) when I wound up the throttle from under 1000rpm to 1100. That's when it went GDUMPH and tossed me into the road.

So, what do big V twin riders say. Oh, yes I know there are much bigger one's out there but this is big to me.

Had an 02 DL back in 02 and after a few 1000k it got worse and worse, similar symptoms to yours, Tuneup, adjustments, clean things, new things. The best thing I did was fit iridium plugs. Have since had a few others through the workshop and iridium plugs plus a tune with Teka Tuner sorts them out. I think its a fuelling issue and Teka Tune is probably what helps the most, iridiums are better at firing inconsistent mixtures so they would be masking the real problem. My personal bikes get iridiums whether they need them or not. Worth a try.
cheers

**Owl** · 2nd May 2010, 09:02

Originally Posted by TripleZee Dyno

The best thing I did was fit iridium plugs. Have since had a few others through the workshop and iridium plugs plus a tune with Teka Tuner sorts them out. I think its a fuelling issue and Teka Tune is probably what helps the most, iridiums are better at firing inconsistent mixtures so they would be masking the real problem. My personal bikes get iridiums whether they need them or not. Worth a try.
cheers

Ever had an issue with iridiums TripleZee? Just curious, as my 1050 killed a set in less than 10,000km. Signs of excessive heat, with discolouration on the insulator etc.

**banditrider** · 2nd May 2010, 09:34

Originally Posted by AllanB

A bit off ball this one but ............. is your chain adjusted correctly?

I've noticed on some bikes that if the chain is loose and you are poodling along very slowly as you describe you'll sometimes get backlash and jerking in the manner you describe. It's like the chain is slightly out of sync with the sprockets.

This is something I've also noticed on my VTR - and it's something easy to check...

Also, any of the issues mentioned (for me anyway) always tend to be at low revs and most often are when a down-change is stuffed up. So maybe you could have a bit of a think about gear change technique varminter? Maybe down change at slightly higher revs (say 2-2,500 revs) rather than pootling up to a stop???

**varminter** · 2nd May 2010, 09:44

Thanks Laava for the offer but not sure I'd be up to a ride that far, I have to panel beat this old body after every hour to get the kinks out.
These are injected.I adjusted the chain recently too.
Seen the info' on the power commander & the teka box, perhaps I'll go that way, when I save the money.
I check out stromtroopers site too, the yanks seem to have plenty of money to spend.
I've never had any missing or farting (with the bike) only this cutting out very occasionally. I use 91 so I'll try the top shelf stuff.
I'm assuming the bike shop here know about the earlier model problems, I even gave them the Suzuki technical info' #35 for the problem which lists the checks to do. They said they have checked it on a dyno.
I set the idle at 1100 as it was less than 1000 before, a mistake I think, should have set it to 1200.
I'm stoked that there are so many replies. Thanks guys

Ohand banditrider and I'll stop pootling too.

**Jantar** · 2nd May 2010, 10:07

Laava has already mention the TBS, which is the best thing that you can do for a Strom. You don't say which model it is, but it appears the K4 and K5 models both had issues with the standard mapping. In some cases the CPU needed replacing, but usually just mapping it correctly fixed the problem.

My K6 never needed touching, and was perfectly acceptable, but in comparisom my L0 is marvelous. It pulls from lower revs smoothly and is overall a much nicer bike at low speed. Top gear is even usable at an indicated 100 kmh which on the K6 wasn't.

The L0 uses less fuel at highway speeds, but is thirstier when commuting.

**dipshit** · 2nd May 2010, 11:13

Originally Posted by Owl

Ever had an issue with iridiums TripleZee? Just curious, as my 1050 killed a set in less than 10,000km. Signs of excessive heat, with discolouration on the insulator etc.

I am curious about iridium plug life too. They come standard on my GSXR and the service scheduled calls for their replacement at 12,000 ks. That is also what the regular plugs are meant to be replaced at on my last bike as well. I will be replacing the iridiums on the GSXR at the suggested 12k service. Just wondering if it is overkill for iridium plugs..?? (some people have had them in other bikes for 50,000 ks plus)