Can I hook up LEDs to the indicators?

[zadok]

Remembering would be the best but it just doesn't happen. I'm getting old I guess and I'll use technology to make up for it. Perhaps it's just after so many years of not having a bike I've got used to the car and indicators that turn themselves off ... or keep ticking at you to remind you.

Fair enuf. If I remember rightly, my Yamaha XZ550 had self cancelling indicators after so many seconds. I recall having to give them another flick every now and then if sat at lights for too long. Maybe that could be implemented on all bikes.

[Wolf]

Fair enuf. If I remember rightly, my Yamaha XZ550 had self cancelling indicators after so many seconds. I recall having to give them another flick every now and then if sat at lights for too long. Maybe that could be implemented on all bikes.

I think some of the more modern Beemers have a tilt sensor so that the indicator switches off when you return to an upright position - kind of like having the sensors on a cage's steering. Could be wrong.

[Ixion]

I think some of the more modern Beemers have a tilt sensor so that the indicator switches off when you return to an upright position - kind of like having the sensors on a cage's steering. Could be wrong.

Mine has self cancelling, but it's based on time and distance - so many seconds or so many metres - not counting time actually stopped, so they don't turn off when waiting at lights.

[avgas]

ive had problems with indicator development products that im currently toying with.
a) If you have anything pointed to your eyes (or someone elses), it helps to be lower then 10,000mcd - last week i shot myself in the eye with a breadboard of these and i couldnt see properly for about 30 mins.
b) Tilt sensors are good idea, but what happens if you stop at a light to turn?
c) Distance meters are a right ..... to get to work on all corners (incl roundabouts).
BMW have these pretty good - but still have seen some of these fail from time to time.

Im currently looking at using an at90s chipset and making some 'smart indicators' , but will have to sit on the backburner for a while so i can sort my other project at uni out. Damn fencing scorebox.

As for having a indicator warning........dont you have a light for that? If that doesnt work for you - use a buzzer (I think there are even some Piezo jobs that work at 12v - just hook that up with an astable oscillator and your good)

[bugjuice]

Found it. This is the answer to everyone's problem...
http://www.datatool.co.uk/productA.asp?ProductID=236

[Oakie]

Found it. This is the answer to everyone's problem...
http://www.datatool.co.uk/productA.asp?ProductID=236

Good work! I've e-mailed them about prices and availability on this side of the world.

[Groins_NZ]

Have a look at this qizzmo too...

http://www.customdynamics.com/kisan_signal_minder.htm

Cheers,
M.

[T.I.E]

would not mind some on my helmet too. little beackon. red on back blue on front and shake your head and people will get out of the way.

[Wolf]

Have a look at this qizzmo too...

http://www.customdynamics.com/kisan_signal_minder.htm

Cheers,
M.

That one looks better than the other one - adjustable timer, brake light suspends the timer and you can have adjustable running lights and hazard light functions as well.

[skidMark]

would not mind some on my helmet too. little beackon. red on back blue on front and shake your head and people will get out of the way.

ahahah nice

oakie....why don't you either a) keep your finger on it and turn it off just after you have turned or....

b) hook up some leds to the circuit it wouldnt take long at all couple of leds and resistors wire them in if you don't know how pm me and ill go through how to do it and wiring diagrams if you like?

[Silage]

Oakie I thought your idea was a good one.

So..... a coupla weeks back I went to trusty Dick Smiffs and got 4m of their thinnest single core wire, two 560 ohm resistors and two 3mm yellow LEDs for a total dosh of under a big mac ($4 summit). Procrastinated a few days then wired them up with the LEDs drilled thru the plasticedgystuff (the most techy thing youll read here) near the top on the faring blade ie as high as poss while still pointing at me. Wires ran discretely under the plasticedgystuff. Sliced a bit of insulation off the wires where they go thru the faring into the indicator stalks and soldered in the new wires (making sure they were the right way round cos as every one knows LEDs are polarised).

Outcome: They work fine but are too puny to be noticed in daylight.

Answer: Another trip to Dicky's and get two of their high intensity red 5mm LEDs ($1.30 each ish). Replaced the puny ones and these are great. The main thing to watch is that these have a narrow beam width so you need to have them pointing at your face. These I can see in the day AND now I know which indicator I have forgotten to turn off .

The GS has nice big blades so this has worked really well ie it is much closer to the normal eye line. Will try to post a photo if anyone is interested.

[Oakie]

Oakie I thought your idea was a good one.

So..... a coupla weeks back I went to trusty Dick Smiffs and got 4m of their thinnest single core wire, two 560 ohm resistors and two 3mm yellow LEDs for a total dosh of under a big mac ($4 summit). Procrastinated a few days then wired them up with the LEDs drilled thru the plasticedgystuff (the most techy thing youll read here) near the top on the faring blade ie as high as poss while still pointing at me. Wires ran discretely under the plasticedgystuff. Sliced a bit of insulation off the wires where they go thru the faring into the indicator stalks and soldered in the new wires (making sure they were the right way round cos as every one knows LEDs are polarised).

Outcome: They work fine but are too puny to be noticed in daylight.

Answer: Another trip to Dicky's and get two of their high intensity red 5mm LEDs ($1.30 each ish). Replaced the puny ones and these are great. The main thing to watch is that these have a narrow beam width so you need to have them pointing at your face. These I can see in the day AND now I know which indicator I have forgotten to turn off .

The GS has nice big blades so this has worked really well ie it is much closer to the normal eye line. Will try to post a photo if anyone is interested.

Brilliant! Thanks for the R&D on my behalf. One thing though. You said you made sure the wires were soldered the right way around because everyone knows that LED are polarised ... so which way is the right way around? And do you have to get a stronger resistor for the larger LED (thinks not but decides to ask anyway). And yeah, I'd love to see a photo

[Oakie]

would not mind some on my helmet too. little beackon. red on back blue on front and shake your head and people will get out of the way.

Or blinking red and (green?) on the ends of your handlebars and you could passable imitation of a low flying Cessna

[sAsLEX]

Brilliant! Thanks for the R&D on my behalf. One thing though. You said you made sure the wires were soldered the right way around because everyone knows that LED are polarised ... so which way is the right way around? And do you have to get a stronger resistor for the larger LED (thinks not but decides to ask anyway). And yeah, I'd love to see a photo

just ask at Dick Smiths they should show you, but the LEDs have one lead slightly longer which is the ......., well I forget

[Ixion]

Brilliant! Thanks for the R&D on my behalf. One thing though. You said you made sure the wires were soldered the right way around because everyone knows that LED are polarised ... so which way is the right way around? And do you have to get a stronger resistor for the larger LED (thinks not but decides to ask anyway). And yeah, I'd love to see a photo

Long lead is generally +ve