Two2Cool, high oil temp solution??

[Brody@DivisionX]

[QUOTE=vifferman]
If it was so good, it would already be added to the oil pack the major companies use.
QUOTE]

A customer we have had on it now changes the oil in his sons bike half as much because of it not reaching the punishing temperatures that dirty the oil that it used to. Oil companies certainly wouldn't want that!

Ever thought that someone really intelligent in their own workshop can come up with something revolutionary that the big companies can't?

[Brody@DivisionX]

Generally not a good idea to apply car products to bikes. There are enough differences between the two to make things become *really* expensive.

Engine oil in bikes usually runs around 60C at the oil cooler. Yes, its the main part of the cooling system on the machine (more so than the water side), and yes, engine oil for bikes needs to run as thin as possible for the situation.

In the darkest depths of winter you put in a heavy oil to prevent it freezing and to cause friction (so you generate heat) to get the oil temp UP to 60C. In the summer you do the opposite - thin stuff to cool the engine and remove friction. Generally for a hot engine tho - thinner oil is better in order to get optimum circulation and minimal drag on the engine.

Ideally you want new oil in, old out - but thats not possible on a bike, so it goes thru a filter into a holding tank and is then re-circulated. When it becomes black (or thicker than your requirements) you replace it.

Modern bikes dont really require that much on the lubricating side of things. If you look carefully at each component you'll find that they are usually surface treated for hardness and (in the case of pistons etc) slipperyness already - you'll also find that most parts actually have very little loads applied to them. I figure these days there is probably nothing in the bike that a bit of grease wouldnt do the same job for. Hence oil use is really just for cooling/heating.

Very good points.

I just want to add that this was designed and tested for bikes and later applied to cars etc.

[oldfart]

Oil additives have been around since - well engine oil. The premis that manufacturers of oil additives are putting forward, without actually stating it, is that the oil I'm using is not up to the job I've purchased it for. That being the case, I'd prefer to go buy better oil than rely on combining producer a's oil & manufacturer b's additive, which would have have unknown results,

[Ixion]

Some additives (MolySlip springs to mind) really do work.

The reason that they're not added as standard is that generally they are (a) only needed under fairly extreme conditions and (b) expensive.

Since most drivers/riders don't push their engines hard enough to encounter said extreme conditions, so it's not worth the extra cost. Oils , like everything else, are designed for typical conditions, not extremes.

But if you have an engine that (for whatever reason) is under unusual stress, additives MAY help (don't say all do, 'tis a "maybe")

As in all things there's additives and additives. Up to you, the well informed consumer, to separate the good stuff from the snake oil.

[MSTRS:Me]

have a read of this then

[Brody@DivisionX]

Some additives (MolySlip springs to mind) really do work.

The reason that they're not added as standard is that generally they are (a) only needed under fairly extreme conditions and (b) expensive.

Since most drivers/riders don't push their engines hard enough to encounter said extreme conditions, so it's not worth the extra cost. Oils , like everything else, are designed for typical conditions, not extremes.

But if you have an engine that (for whatever reason) is under unusual stress, additives MAY help (don't say all do, 'tis a "maybe")

As in all things there's additives and additives. Up to you, the well informed consumer, to separate the good stuff from the snake oil.

Very well said

[Ixion]

have a read of this then

Fark!. What hit me was the zorst glowing red hot after 5 minutes! Obviously relies on movement for cooling air flow. Needs bigger radiator and fan me thinks.

In a modern 4 stroke, torture like this is unlikely to result in immediate failure (eg seizure) But it may cause extremely accelerated wear. 5000km later you may find the price.

[curious george]

Sounds like snake oil. Smells like sanke oil. Must be....?
Seriously...a heat seaking oil? Gimmie a break.
While not wanting to mistake progress for innovation, one remains slightly sceptical.

[Lou Girardin]

This is a common misconception about this product. Two2Cool does not cool your oil. It makes your oil more attracted to heat.

As a part of the motor gets hot oil repels away from it and it gets hotter and hotter. Its double jeapardy, where your oil is needed inside a hot motor is where it is less likely to be.

It works by not allowing heat to be generated in the first place.

An engine is a heat pump. No heat = no power. If you fill the combustion chambers with your product I'll also guarantee no heat.
Your explanations indicate a lack of knowledge of engine design.

[Lou Girardin]

Generally not a good idea to apply car products to bikes. There are enough differences between the two to make things become *really* expensive.

Engine oil in bikes usually runs around 60C at the oil cooler. Yes, its the main part of the cooling system on the machine (more so than the water side), and yes, engine oil for bikes needs to run as thin as possible for the situation.

In the darkest depths of winter you put in a heavy oil to prevent it freezing and to cause friction (so you generate heat) to get the oil temp UP to 60C. In the summer you do the opposite - thin stuff to cool the engine and remove friction. Generally for a hot engine tho - thinner oil is better in order to get optimum circulation and minimal drag on the engine.

Ideally you want new oil in, old out - but thats not possible on a bike, so it goes thru a filter into a holding tank and is then re-circulated. When it becomes black (or thicker than your requirements) you replace it.

Modern bikes dont really require that much on the lubricating side of things. If you look carefully at each component you'll find that they are usually surface treated for hardness and (in the case of pistons etc) slipperyness already - you'll also find that most parts actually have very little loads applied to them. I figure these days there is probably nothing in the bike that a bit of grease wouldnt do the same job for. Hence oil use is really just for cooling/heating.

It's really the other way around, thinner oil in winter to give faster circulation at start-up. Thicker in summer to lubricate better. That's why multi-grade oils were developed, to give both attributes in one oil.
Modern oil designs are the one of the main reasons that engines that spin to 5 figure revs can survive. I don't think grease would do it. But if you want to try, I'd be interested in your results.

[Motu]

So where are these areas that the oil is being repeld from? If it's an area of heat you will find the designer has directed oil to that area,to take heat away - crankshafts and other plain bearings are selfexplantatory,they have an oil feed,oil is directed under piston crowns,flows over cyl heads,around valves,all the time carrying away heat.The oil takes heat AWAY....so what does this stuff do to help the oil?

[inlinefour]

Some bikes don't have a problem full stop.

Some owners of bikes don't take their bikes to the limit. So for normal day to day use they don't need additives. Others need them to keep their engine wear down when they are giving them hell and increase horsepower etc etc.

In your case if it ain't broke don't fix it.

If you ride a crummy 50 then I guess you'll want to get the extra out of it. However anything that improved the output of an engine will also generally decrease the life expectancy of an engine also. I know when I'm riding my bike too hard, the restricter(s) cut in. Or in the case of the 2 stroke, a piston breaks but I don't think your going to fool anyone peddling this stuff. If the bikes needed it then they would be sold with it new...

[inlinefour]

Oil additives have been around since - well engine oil. The premis that manufacturers of oil additives are putting forward, without actually stating it, is that the oil I'm using is not up to the job I've purchased it for. That being the case, I'd prefer to go buy better oil than rely on combining producer a's oil & manufacturer b's additive, which would have have unknown results,

Who spends thousands just to put shit in the gearbox? Not me or oldfart for that matter. How about we just agree to disagree with the peddler of this shyte?

[inlinefour]

Fark!. What hit me was the zorst glowing red hot after 5 minutes! Obviously relies on movement for cooling air flow. Needs bigger radiator and fan me thinks.

In a modern 4 stroke, torture like this is unlikely to result in immediate failure (eg seizure) But it may cause extremely accelerated wear. 5000km later you may find the price.

Which farkin dumb arse lets their bike rev out while not moving? If this is the best reason for using an additive, then I suggest an alternative. Stop allowing dumbarses riding bikes. I have two bike that are water cooled and neither has a fan, so although I might not be a rocket scientist. I know the importance of air flowing through the radiator

[Brody@DivisionX]

From the manufacturer:

Our main ingredient has a negative charge on the last molecule. This makes it have a high afinity to heat. What it does is attach itself to the oil molecules. Then as temps goes up it drags their oil molecules towards the heat where it belongs.

Its really simple. Tell them it doesnt change their oil. It just makes it attracted to heat.

It doesnt lower oil temps. It keeps them from being made due to keeping it where it belongs.

Most people who have posted have some valid points all of which indicate they are happy with what they have. As I said before, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

As far as the manufacturers not including the stuff from new. There is a lot of things that bikes don't NEED. That is why there is an industry of aftermarket products, diffeent people different needs.

Or what about the '04 RMZ250, it needed bigger radiators. In '05 it got them. But what about all the people who still have '04s? Spend $800 on radiators or $40 on a product that has been shown to do more?

Whether or not you think the product works or not is your own choice. I was skeptical at first but have tested it myself in many bikes with the results promised. If it hadn't lived up to that I wouldn't have started distributing it, simple as that. If you don't think outside the box your living in a square.

As far as all the 'modern bikes don't have problems' goes. Try telling that to the hundreds of people who ride 250 four stroke motocrossers who have had them blow up due to overheating. Suddenly a $40 bottle of oil doesn't seem so significant is helping prevent a 3 thousand dollar motor injury.

There is probably more heat related problems in motocross than on road. I was only responding to comments made about a product we are the agent for. You either beleive in it as many satisfied users have, don't need it or don't care / agree with the concept. Either way I am not going to stand in front of what you beleive is or isn't happening inside your motor when temperatures exceed normal.