kiwifruit has picked his screemer at up above 200kph...
kiwifruit has picked his screemer at up above 200kph...
Screamer + HUD. I have setup so screamer goes off for 3 seconds, then shuts up and I use a few ultrabright LED's above my speedo flashing in my face to monitor it untill it turns off.
No arseing about with batteries for wireless device in helmet, or cables or anything. Just jump on and go.
When I get round to it I will post the schematic and instructions.
But i would be going with a in helmet only system and a power switch cut off, with them becoming elegal now...
I've got a couple.
#1: How do they put that little flange on the cylinder-head end of exhaust pipes? Is it a short seperate piece of tubing, bigger diameter, that they weld on? How do the weld it on with no marks on either side? It confuses me.
#2: Who's seen that Stagecoach repair truck (silver cab) around Auckland? It sounds like -- could it be -- a single-cylinder diesel? It sounds like a steam train. Chuffs merrily away up hills and at idle, except black diesel smoke pours from the top. What is this torque-monster?
HI
some of you will know from previous posts my bike recently blew a head gasket out the 2nd zorst port.
I strpped it down an steam cleaned it at work. an painted up old bits an even replaced a few things on the way.
I wanted to get the cams "hotted up" but thats 1600 bucks. 1600 times the value of the bike.
\anyone had any great expereinces with using an angle grinder / bench grinder to alter cams?
I wanted to get the cams "hotted up" but thats 1600 bucks. 1600 times the value of the bike.
\anyone had any great expereinces with using an angle grinder / bench grinder to alter cams?[/QUOTE]
YOU GOT TO BE KIDDING
The problem is that for more performance, you need more lift and more duration. That means more metal not less, which means messing about with hard facing welding electrodes.
A suggestion though (which does work, if the conditions are right). Valve lift and duration are determined not just by the camshaft, but , in many engines, by the cam followers/rocker arms also. And they are much easier to modify than the camshaft.
Won't work woith inverted bucket tappets , and won't work on every motor regardless. But some it does go a treat.
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
Make it lighter? However I don't think that it will help your performance.
Get a tyre repair kit ( tube less only) they are the best
and a bike pump![]()
"Chopper says Harden the fuck up New Zealand"
my simple understanding of cams an what they do is open valves at certain time an for how long depending on the profile.
suzuki (any manufacturer) will have cams made to be responsive all over the rev range. sacrificing top end. i want to try get the top end humming away.
to get the cam made for top end only (bike will be a paddock basher) i want to know what to do.
ixion says make cam bigger. thats not available to me
if i steepen the curve profiole will it work towards whjat im aiming for?
You need more lift (so the valve is open wider and more gas can flow in), and more duration (valve open for a longer time).
So the pointy bit needs to be higher and fatter.
Removing metal from the shoulders will reduce duration, your valve will not be open as long, so less gas into the cylinder, less power. And the valve coming down with a bang off the lobe will probably cause valve bounce at lower revs so the motor won't rev out.
Of cours eall of this probably results in a valve hitting a piston, or a broken cam chain, or a wrecked motor one way or other. It can be done, but you definately need to know what you a re doing. And expect to trash a few engines in the process of finding out what works. Or doesn't.
Originally Posted by skidmark
Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
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