Making your own control cables

**Motu** · 2nd May 2008, 21:42

Plumber's solder has a higher lead content,so is not as strong as electrical solder which is 60/40 tin/lead I think.Interesting that the alloy has a lower melting point than both parent metals.I prefer a paste flus for cables as you can put it where you want it,and it won't run down inside your nice new cable.

I am pleased to see that no one in this thread has mentioned soder....Hitcher will be impressed.Obviously a word the texting generation doesn't use every day.

**Ixion** · 2nd May 2008, 22:00

Tinmans soder (

) is not the same as plumbers. Tinmans (or tinkers or gypsies soder) is 1 part tin 1 part lead (50/50) : plumbers is 1 part tin 2 parts lead.

Electricians soder (once known a s fine soder) is 1.5 tin to 1 lead (60/40) .

The considerations of type are more complex than just lead bad tin good. Electricians soder is liquid over only a very small heat range (183 to 188). This is good for electronics where you want to touch the wires , flow the solder and it sets real fast. It also has the lowest melting point of all soders an important consideration when dealing with heat sensitive electronic components)But the downside is, that the narrow heat range actually means the solder joint is LESS strong. Like most metallurgy stuff, fast cooling means lower strength than slow cooling. Tinmans soder is slower setting but gives a stronger joint (it was actually used to solder handles to things and stuff like that ), and has a higher melting point (why you need a flame not a 25 watt soldering iron) .

The special feature of plumbers soder is that it remains plastic over a wider heat range than any of the other soders, an important advantage for wiping joints .

Then there are the innumerable silver and hard soders , pewterers soder , goldsmiths soder, silversmiths soder, gunsmiths soder, and woods metal

Oh, and you won't be able to get ANY of them soon because the bureaucunts in the EU have banned them cos they contain lead!

**CDFloss** · 2nd May 2008, 22:02

Originally Posted by Ixion

It's the nipple actually. The ferrule is the little silver cappy thingy wotsit that goes over the end of the outer cable to keep it neat and tidy.

The nipple will be brass.

Mitre 10 should have the solder you need, and more importantly, the flux. You want tinmans solder (not electricians) , and Duzall flux (in the little green bottle). Be sure to wash the cable throughly after it's done. the flux is corrosive.

Brass, that's the one!

Yeah, I'm always getting my wotsits and nipples mixed up... damn those nipples.

Thanks - will head out there tomorrow. I've got a piddly 25w soldering iron, and a beefy sized torch... so would it be better to melt a little pot of solder using the torch and dip the nipple in it, or attempt to just use the torch itself?

**CDFloss** · 3rd May 2008, 17:38

I ended up using the torch to solder the nipple, which went well - looked better than the original connection. Problem is that I just tried to fit it, and its too short... BUGGER!

Now that I think about it, both the clutch lever and engine case adjustments were screwed right in, so the cable must've been at the limit, and I had to trim about 1.5cm off the tip to get a good clean end. Plus the 5mm or so that the nipple takes up I guess.

So I'm up shit creek without a clutch cable. The outer is 100%, so I just need a cable (think its 2mm). Where in Wellington would I be able to get some loose cable - or one made up for me? I just cant believe that I need to wait over 2 weeks for an OEM part for $50 when all I need is a new inner.

I'm guessing I can just measure the old one, and add a good 5+cm to make sure it fits?

Cheers
Dave

**imdying** · 3rd May 2008, 17:50

I've made thousands of cables, electrical solder will be fine. LPG torch is great, MAPP torch is too hot. Duzall rocks, don't forget it. 2mm cable should be easy enough to buy from any motorcycle repair shop... if they don't have it, they're a pretty poor workshop imho.

**Bonez** · 3rd May 2008, 18:34

Can you move the clutch lever assy along the bars/clip-on a bit? Or reroute it to be usable till Monday?

**TLDV8** · 3rd May 2008, 19:12

fwiw...Last time i made up custom cables i ordered everything through Motomail who got the bits off Darbi Accessories in Auckland.
If you can get a copy of their catalog it shows all,including nipple dimensions,cable inner/outer and outer ends.
I never had any problems using good silver solder and a normal soldering iron (reasonable wattage) for the nipples.
To powerful and the solder can run out of the nipples making the cable stiff,not a good thing at the twist grip end as i found when first having a go,a bit of practice got good results.

**imdying** · 3rd May 2008, 19:26

Yeah, Darbi's, or Whites up norf

Solder it upside down to prevent the solder running up the cable, but also, only flux the bits you want soldered, and whatever you do, don't use too much solder!!! (cause that's the biggest cause).

**CDFloss** · 3rd May 2008, 20:43

Originally Posted by Bonez

Can you move the clutch lever assy along the bars/clip-on a bit? Or reroute it to be usable till Monday?

Unfortunately not, the cable is too short for the outer, and I dont want to damage/cut the outer as its still in good condition.

The brass cylindrical nipple that fits into the clutch handle is fine so I can reuse it, but I dont know what the bottom (smaller) nipple is. I.e. dont know if its just a blob of solder, or a reusable unit like the brass top one. If its reusable, then I guess I can just buy a length of 2mm cable from somewhere and make it up myself.

I'm in Wellington, so Motomail (or anywhere in Auckland) isnt going to happen.

Cheers

**Ixion** · 3rd May 2008, 20:50

You almost always need to shorten the outer to match a shortened inner. Before soldering up the inner it's easy, just slip off the ferrule, and a quick whack with a sharp cold chisel. Wiggle the ferrule back on and you'd never know the difference.

Once the inner is soldered it's a bit harder but doable. Slide the ferrule off, and trim the outer plastic casing back the required length with a sharp knife. Use a sharp small cold chisel or screwdriver to prise apart the coils of the outer cable.You may need to wedge the coils apart with the edge of a small pair of sidecutters to start things off. Now use a GOOD SHARP pair of side cutters to snip the coil at the appropriate point. Using two pairs of linesman's pliers, unwind the coil of the snipped off bit and remove it. Replace the ferrule, done.

Properly done it is impossible to tell that the cable has been shortened.

I sort of assumed you would shorten the outer to match the inner. Shouldn't assume I guess.

**Bonez** · 3rd May 2008, 20:50

There is an alternative to OEM cables. "Motion Pro"
http://www.motionpro.com/search/moto...cement_cables/

Any bike shop should be able to order a complete cable less than an OEM item if it's available for your bike in a few days.

**Ixion** · 3rd May 2008, 20:53

Hmm. Very limited range .

**Bonez** · 3rd May 2008, 20:55

Originally Posted by Ixion

Hmm. Very limited range .

A particular model cable may be suitable for a variaty of machines. Also you can get cable kits-
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/cables/

**CDFloss** · 3rd May 2008, 20:55

Originally Posted by Ixion

You almost always need to shorten the outer to match a shortened inner. ... I sort of assumed you would shorten the outer to match the inner. Shouldn't assume I guess.

Aah, I see... yes, well.

At least this gives me hope again that I might be riding tomorrow!

I'll have to check that there is enough slack for me to shorten the outer, but I seem to remember it being pretty slack.

So, I guess its back out into the cold to check it out. Shoulda bought those Dickies work gloves I was looking at this morning... Im likely to lose a few fingers to frostbite tonight!

Thanks again folks.