DO NOT PUT IT IN YOUR BIKE, I "borrowed" some from work and put it in my bike, as soon as I did, the clutch started slipping.
Bike Oil is a marketing ploy!Originally Posted by madboy
The important this is to get an oil that meets the API specs required for your bike and that it doesn't have friction modifiers. Obviously it should also have the appropriate viscosity.
The Unknown Rider
Originally Posted by CaN
That's very interesting. Certainly tends to cast doubt on the claims by motorcycle oil manufacturers about resistance to shearing stresses, and VERY interesting how quickly all the oils lost viscosity after quite modest mileages (guess that's another reason to keep those oil changes frequent) but it doesn't address the issue of friction-modifiiers and other additives at all so still leaves that area wide open to argument. I note also that it was done 1994 so I do wonder whether or not there have been any changes in the oils evaluated in the intervening 11 years. Very interesting though
Kerry
The gears ''chopping up'' the oil strands always gets dragged out - but the BMC Mini came out in 1959,when 99% of bikes used a separate oil in the gearbox,and they were in production for 40 yrs,no oil related problems,and the oils in 1959 were crap compared with todays oils....and now we have short chain synthetics,that's the whole point of synthetics,greater shear strength....so what's wrong with them in your bike? Clutch slip from synthetics? - I'd say the clutch was stuffed...but it's easier to blame the oil eh?
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I don't see any issue with friction modifiers. Oils labelled "Energy Conserving" should not be used in bikes with a wet clutch.
But using my Honda manual as a guide, so long as the oil is of the correct viscosity and meets or exceeds the stated API and not "Energy Conserving" I use it.
That said the manual states oil and filter should be changed every 12,000 km, but I change the oil every 6,000 km and the oil and filter every 12,000.
Possibly showing my ignorance here but isn't "Energy Conserving" synonymous with "contains friction modifiers"?Originally Posted by CaN
Kerry
Originally Posted by kerryg
That was my understanding as well.
The Unknown Rider
Hi there soory it took a while ...I did have a really good guide to oil ,,,but have misslaid it
Here is a general guide to oil
The one is what the numbers mean
and here is the spec sheet for shell helix ....
When I find the copy I will post it
Dont stress to much when it comes to oil ,,,, the really cheap ones tend to have more detergents and cheaper additives ,,,, which dont combust so well and break down quicker ...but the average stuff you buy from the shop will be fine ,,and you will probably change it before it needs changing anyway
The BEST thing you can do If you are worried about engine long life,,,,is run A REALLY GOOD airfilter of the sponge foam type ....
and at the end of the day ,,,, you will probably sell the bike before you notice any problems caused by wear ...( except 2 strokes ,,under full load ,,,THEN it pays to have a oil with a very high shear strength ,,,,ask me how I know !!!)
make sure it doesnt have Friction modifiers ....will cause wet clutches to slip ......
Stephen
"Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."
My apologies.
When I said "I don't see any issue with friction modifiers" I was trying to say that it is not an issue as in there is no debate or doubt (i.e. no issue) to address.
They should not be used in a wet clutch!
I realise now that I phrased that badly.
I'll post the link again- http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm
OEM pleated paper filters have been proven more efficient at removing particles from the air than ANY aftermarket foam filter. Though I normally convert OEM paper ones to foam type for convenience sake more than anything else.Originally Posted by Brian d'marge
you would have to have a very fine weave and a lot of layers before it could compete with a sponge oil type ,,,, the reason is that the air has to change direction to get through ,,,and the dust being heavier ,, gets trapped by the oilOriginally Posted by Bonez
Do a google esearch and find a Good airfilter manufacterer ,,, and see ...I may have some comparisons somewhere ..but wife getting pissed as I have some Hunnydo s to do ...
Stephen
"Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."
Have seen a comparison by independent testers. Honda paper elements came out on top as far as filtration goes. Believe it or not.............................This link relates to cars but tells the same story- http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm
Sure K&N have better flow but I know what I'd rather have on a dusty, gravelly back country road.
Edit-Clarified a few things
Nice site well posted ta , yes the napa paper ones offer good filtration and good airflow ... If you bear with me for a wjile I will find my info ,,,, I am sure the oil ones give better filtration at the expense of airflow ....which in a million mile motor is what u want ... ( the wife has gone out for a sec so I am into the wine ,,and a quick read of KB ,,,) when I find the stuff I am looking for I will post it ,, sorry ot was a while since I did anything with airfiltersOriginally Posted by Bonez
But good web site , a nice read and yes I agree I wouldnt use a kand N either ,,,,,
Stephen
"Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."
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