How do I perform this manuver ?

[The Stranger:Me]

So ok, why blip the throttle on the way down.

Is it to actually get the gear to engage (like some older cars) or to prevent wheel lockup - or some other reason?

[mops]

So ok, why blip the throttle on the way down.

Is it to actually get the gear to engage (like some older cars) or to prevent wheel lockup - or some other reason?

do drop down a gear quickly and smoothly, wihout jerking, skiding wheel (either way), changing the speed of the bike.

[Ixion]

So ok, why blip the throttle on the way down.

Is it to actually get the gear to engage (like some older cars) or to prevent wheel lockup - or some other reason?

Both. Blipping works like double declutching in a car, cos of the inherent drag in a wet clutch (blipping does NOT work on a BMW with a dry clutch - GRRR ) . That helps to get the speeds of the gears closer so that the change is smoother. And with the engine revving a bit you are less likely to lock up the rear wheel (not that I consider that a big deal myself)

[The Stranger:Me]

do drop down a gear quickly and smoothly, wihout jerking, skiding wheel (either way), changing the speed of the bike.

Is it really quicker? don't you have to wait momentarily with the clutch disengaged whilst the engine revs build then change the gear?

As to jerking or skidding that is easily controlled by how you release the clutch isn't it?
I may drop the clutch into a corner to slide the back so as it is more closely aligned to the exit angle, or I can just release it as slowly as I want to maintain traction or even apply a little accelerator as I am releasing so as to maintain a constant speed, say for climbing a hill.

[enigma51]

So what if the rear is slding you should have your corner speed sorted before you enter the corner and you should rather concentrate on entry position as well as exit position. If you are getting rear weel slide your are either braking too late or going to fast so try braking earlier and not dropping the gears down to quickly you are not on race track so no sliding or late braking is needed.

You should also try and teach yourself the two finger braking method. and what ever you do dont get justsomeguy (sorry mate) to teach you he is still needs alot of training.

[Phurrball]

Lots of good advice to be had here Mops. Great to hear you're getting out and about on that Bandit of yours. I second what people have said about the 'zone' of these bikes - there's really not much there below 7k RPM, I never use 6th around town - mostly 4th (will depend on your sprockets of course).

Practice the throttle blipping - it becomes second nature after a while, and sounds cool! At the moment, you're right where I was a few months back when I first started regularly riding my Bandit...give it time, take it easy, and plan ahead where possible - you'll pick it up quick enough.

Maybe catch ya for a Bandit ride when I get back to Aucks - I'm missing my bike horribly...

[mops]

Is it really quicker? don't you have to wait momentarily with the clutch disengaged whilst the engine revs build then change the gear?

As to jerking or skidding that is easily controlled by how you release the clutch isn't it?
I may drop the clutch into a corner to slide the back so as it is more closely aligned to the exit angle, or I can just release it as slowly as I want to maintain traction or even apply a little accelerator as I am releasing so as to maintain a constant speed, say for climbing a hill.

easy for you to say......

[The Stranger:Me]

The reality is you shoud be down to cornering speed sooner.

Using "a car up your arse" as an excuse is wrong.
If a car is up your arse you should begin slowing way way sooner to give the driver as much time as possible to slow down. Leaving it all to last minute is a recipe for a mistake. No matter who makes it you know who will come out worst.

If blipping the throttle is a turn on for you by all means do it, but the point I was trying to make, in a round about way is you probably don't NEED to blip the throttle, so concentrate on the other skills first.

Contrary to some advice given in this thread I would strongly recommend that you DON'T use the 2 finger braking method, particularly whilst learning. It leads to 2 potential problems.
1) In an emergency your 2 fingers that are still on the throttle may impede the travel of the brake lever and necessitate the release of the brake lever or result in reduced braking effectiveness.
2) Again usually in an emergency situation, it is not uncommon for a rider to inadvertantly apply throttle as they apply the brake, thus decreasing braking effectiveness.

[Marmoot]

don't blip, but change gear down rapidly to induce rear wheel lock.
When the wheel lock and lose traction, quickly apply abundant throttle and pop out the clutch, this will induce rear wheel slide.
Look where you want to go and coutersteer to safety. Feather the throttle but don't cut it out. keep the wheel spinning through the corner.
Do it Mick Doohan style.
Disclaimer: Make sure you have life insurance. No need for bike insurance coz you won't live through it. don't do this unless you have a deathwish.

SERIOUSLY, WHAT ARE YOU DOING TO LOCK THE REAR WHEEL CONSISTENTLY DURING DOWNCHANGE UNDER 60KPH (LOW REVS)??????

If you need a serious riding coaching, message (PM) me and I'll work out a time. Sounds there is something really really wrong in your normal riding. I live around Mt. Albert. Buy me a can of Sprite.

[Mr Skid]

don't blip, but change gear down rapidly to induce rear wheel lock.
When the wheel lock and lose traction, quickly apply abundant throttle and pop out the clutch, this will induce rear wheel slide.

That might work on a SP1, but this is a 250 we're talking about here!

Hard on the front brakes to unload the rear, then cog down to the gear you want to exit the corner in. Feather the clutch, enough to yaw the rear out, but not too much to get the rear chattering.

How much lock does a 250 Bandit have?

[mops]

don't blip, but change gear down rapidly to induce rear wheel lock.
When the wheel lock and lose traction, quickly apply abundant throttle and pop out the clutch, this will induce rear wheel slide.
Look where you want to go and coutersteer to safety. Feather the throttle but don't cut it out. keep the wheel spinning through the corner.
Do it Mick Doohan style.
Disclaimer: Make sure you have life insurance. No need for bike insurance coz you won't live through it. don't do this unless you have a deathwish.

SERIOUSLY, WHAT ARE YOU DOING TO LOCK THE REAR WHEEL CONSISTENTLY DURING DOWNCHANGE UNDER 60KPH (LOW REVS)??????

If you need a serious riding coaching, message (PM) me and I'll work out a time. Sounds there is something really really wrong in your normal riding. I live around Mt. Albert. Buy me a can of Sprite.

ok, i think this me wheel sliding thing got a bit over-rated. I dont do it all the time durning normal riding, just wne I'm trying to take fast left 90 degree junction-corner. usually dropping down 1 or 2 gears is NOT a problem, only when I have to drop 3-4 gears to get into sharp left turn (cos for right turn, you get 1 more lane of width, and that usually allows higher speed through corner and therefore higher gear). Note if I drop even 5 gears down properly (i.e. slowly) I remain in full control of the bike and nothing is sliding...

from this discussing I gather to do those left handers quick I'll have to learn to blip the throttle and brake at the same time to do it quick, which is ok, I understand that and definitely I know I'll get better with more practice.

[Marmoot]

from this discussing I gather to do those left handers quick I'll have to learn to blip the throttle and brake at the same time to do it quick, which is ok, I understand that and definitely I know I'll get better with more practice.

Not really.
You should establish your corner entry speed BEFORE the start of the corner. So, if you cannot slow down properly, then try starting to slow down earlier.
For instance, if you normally brake at 50m before the corner and you are having difficulty as in your first posting, then try to start braking at 75m. And so on and so forth.

Ideally, even if you muck up your braking process and lock the wheel in downchange process, it would be in a straight line. NOT in the corner itself.

You learn anything here?

[bugjuice]

usually dropping down 1 or 2 gears is NOT a problem, only when I have to drop 3-4 gears to get into sharp left turn

are you dropping down these gears all in one go without letting the clutch out?

[mops]

are you dropping down these gears all in one go without letting the clutch out?

I try to clutch in/out evey gear, but sometimes (only when I have to reduce to neutral or 1st), I block-downshift all the way.

[bugjuice]

well there's another issue then. While you're still traveling at some speed, your engine will die down quickly to idle while you bang down the gears, and then you drop the clutch out.. and you wonder why it locks up? Do one gear at a time, take more time, and set up in time for the corner.