Oil Change

[ZeroIndex]

Sorry if this is already posted, but I did try a search and couldn't find anything meaningful.

I plan to do an oil change on my bike (or add some more oil), as I think it may be running a bit low... I've never done an oil change on a bike before, so please bear with me... It's a 4-stroke 4-valve single cylinder 170cc engine. As far as I'm aware, it uses 20W/40W oil, but I'm not completely sure... if anyone can give me advice on which brand and oil weight is good for this engine i would be grateful.

Thanks.

*Edit: Just wondering, would it be ok to top it up with 25W/40W oil in, or is that a bad idea?

[Motu]

I don't know where you've found 20/40 or 25/40 oils,they are not exactly common grades.You are better of with 10/30 or 15/40,seeing as you don't know much about oil you would be better off getting motorcycle specific oil,although it's expensive.Most car oils will do fine,but you need to be aware of friction modifiers and which oils have them.

[Pwalo]

Have you got a bike shop handy? Might pay to pop in and see if the mechanic can give you any advice.

Most of the bikes that I've owned have recommended 10w/40. Not sure about the Kinetic, but I don't think that it would be any different.

Oh and change your oil. Makes a huge difference.

[ZeroIndex]

Have you got a bike shop handy? Might pay to pop in and see if the mechanic can give you any advice.

Most of the bikes that I've owned have recommended 10w/40. Not sure about the Kinetic, but I don't think that it would be any different.

Oh and change your oil. Makes a huge difference.

I gather when changing oil, I need to change the oil filter as well? Ah, I'll ask Quasi for advice when I'm looking at his computer today...

[Pwalo]

Yes it's definitely a good idea to do the filter at the same time as the oil change.

I use my bike for daily commuting and do an oil and filter change every 2000ks. Probably the single best thing that you can do for your bikes engine.

Also don't forget to check and oil your chain weekly, check tyre pressures weekly (at least), and go over everything with a set of spanners every now and then.

Cheers

[Ixion]

Meh, wussys. On my bike I've NEVER changed the engine oil. In over 20 years, 70000 odd km, too. Never had any problems, no engine wear detectable. Phoebe's not complaining .

EDIT: Don't bother with an engine oil filter , either.

[bugjuice]

Yes it's definitely a good idea to do the filter at the same time as the oil change.

I use my bike for daily commuting and do an oil and filter change every 2000ks. Probably the single best thing that you can do for your bikes engine.

Also don't forget to check and oil your chain weekly, check tyre pressures weekly (at least), and go over everything with a set of spanners every now and then.

Cheers

every 2,000ks?!?! hope that's a typo.. Mine is done every 6,000 or an oil change before a track day. Even if you change the oil that often, you won't have to do the filter that often..


Quaz'll steer you right anyhoo.. ain't hard to do a change

[Pwalo]

every 2,000ks?!?! hope that's a typo.. Mine is done every 6,000 or an oil change before a track day. Even if you change the oil that often, you won't have to do the filter that often..


Quaz'll steer you right anyhoo.. ain't hard to do a change

Daily commuting. Prefer to be safe, it's only 2.9 litres, and a filter for a GS500 is really cheap.

Mind you everything for a GS is really cheap.

[bugjuice]

fair enough..
but you do know you could double that mileage, and still be classed as a 'high maintenance' rider..?

My old CBR used to see oil every 10 thou+ or when I remembered.. was like a tank.. anyway, each to their own for sure, but just to save you a few bucks and a couple of weekends, my 2¢

[Motu]

Air cooled motors can run at hotter,and cooler temps than a water cooled motor,off road even more so,this is more stressful on an oil.I've seen engines off road so hot I've burnt my hand just touching the cases,no dramas.I'd change an air cooled motor sooner than water cooled - 3000km for me,with filter.

[bugjuice]

ahhh..... see, I failed to acknowledge the aircoolness of the machine..
I'll think a wee bit harder next time..

[ManDownUnder]

Get someone to look over your shoulder while you do the change. It doesn't matter that you know nothing about it at this stage - I assure you it's straight forward and simple enough.

There are one or two tricks to learn which is why an old hand watching over you is good. Before you start - if playig with oil ain't your chosen profession (i.e. you don;t already smell like a diesel mechanic) then a pair of disposable gloves will keep oil out of skin and nails.

Tips

1) Warm the engine before the change
2) Take the filler cap off before you drain the oil out - this'll allow air in at the same time as the oil goes out - not a big deal but the odd "glup" of oil on a concrete pad deson't add to the look.
3) When the oil plug comes out, let it drop into the container. It'll be hot, and so is the oil following it. Let it fall - it's easy enough to fish out later (an old spoon does the trick). Wipe it down - you'll be good to go.
4) A screwdriver nailed THROUGH the old oil filter makes a wonderful handle. This is where the old hand comes in. Get it right - it'll be a doddle... try to nail it through in a place where you can spin it right round... ideally (although rarely doable)
5) Expect the old filter to be tight... hit it left and rigfht, or on the end. Not too hard - but shock it a bit
6) When the filter comes off - you'll get a little more hot oil. See points 2 and 3 above. Let all the dripping finish before you start on the new filter. Not important... but I figure I want as much crud out as I can get.
7) Smear some new oil onto the o-ring sealing the new filter, then screw it on, hand tight is fine - but make it "best effort" - i.e. as tight as you can with your hand
8) replace the drain bung. Do it up, and double check you did it up.
9) Fill 'er up. Put in the amount required... less a bit. It's easier to put more in than get a bit out... top it up to the full mark
10) Start the motor and go for a wee toodle... come home, let her sit for a min or two - then recheck the oil level. That new filter will have taken some out of the sump. Probably not a lot, but again - while you're on the job... might as well do it right.

Last - triple check you did up that drain bung, and give the oil filter another go. Oil coming out has a number of serious consequences associated with it.

I think that's it. Take it step by step and you'll be fine. First time with someone watching over you, and after that it'll be one more thing to add to your "to do" list... and something you can pass on to your mates, kids... or whoever. It's generally worth a 6 pack if you use it for trade

Re the oil question - 15/40 should do the job. Go for "good but not best" oil. Likewise with the filter.

Buy 3, 4 litre oil containers
1 is for the new oil - buy it 4 litres at a time (having a 4l container dedicated to this makes it easy to measure "4 litres"
1 is for the waste oil coming out of the bike
1 is for the "new oil... "imbalance". When you fill the bike with oil you'll use 2 litres, or 3 litres, and ALWAYS have this odd amount left. Keep it, and on the NEXT oil change use it up then top it off with the new oil in the other new oil container.

Hope this helps. Comments welcome (in case I missed anything?)

[bugjuice]

have you been writing that since 2:50 this morning?

[ManDownUnder]

ahhh..... see, I failed to acknowledge the aircoolness of the machine..
I'll think a wee bit harder next time..

Velly vell done glasshopper... is acutally the engine temp, not the air-cooledness of the machine that's at issue, but that's just being picky...

Now say three hail mary's, have a bloody mary and a bottle of Steiny

[ManDownUnder]

have you been writing that since 2:50 this morning?

Hell no - I get my secretary to do it... My hands are busy err...