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Thread: Blipping

  1. #16
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    29th October 2005 - 16:12
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    Especially when I'm coming home from a ride and changing down as I approach my driveway to let the wife know I'm home safe, and then before switching off in the garage to emphasise the fact, just in case she didn't hear!
    You don't get to be an old dog without learning a few tricks.
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  2. #17
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    4th January 2006 - 19:30
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    Quote Originally Posted by cowboyz
    to be honest, on a 170 I doubt the engine braking will be enough to lock up the back wheel. On bigger bikes, especially in the wet it becomes nessacessary (sp?). Dont do it in every gear or it just sounds stupid. Nicely timed and it sounds cool and gets the odd boyracer reved up.

    I was going into town yesterday and coming up to the lights I have it a bit of a blip. Not a lot. Just enough to satisfy my ears. Then this boyracer in a supra came up beside me hitting redline in every gear. Sounded very ghey.
    it did lock up once in the wet for half a second (i forgot once), but it sounds cool (my bike has a lot of back-fire type sounds coming out of it) and on monday it will sound even better - new exhaust
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  3. #18
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    28th September 2004 - 23:00
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    I do it all the time. I keep only two finger's on the brake, cause that's all I need to pull stoppies on my CBR (when the brakes are working properly). Having the other two fingers on the throttle help me control the revs when I'm on the brakes. Just be careful not to give it forward drive when you are slowing down ultra fast. If you don't do it when you are hard on the anchors, you will lose the back end, because there is no weight on the rear wheel for it to have enough traction to bring the engine up to speed.

    What sugilite is doing is really the same thing, matching the engine speed with the gearbox is what people mean when they say blipping the throttle. Only it's a more controlled blip when you get that good at it.

  4. #19
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    11th August 2005 - 12:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hitcher
    I never got the hang of "blipping". I just use a combination of clutch and throttle and "feel" for the change. Too much time spent driving trucks and heavy machinery, I guess.
    So how's the double clutching work on a bike then????!!!!!

  5. #20
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    1st March 2005 - 14:45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pwalo
    but it's even more important on a four stroke single or twin.
    Hell yeah!!,blipping down through the gears & listening to the throaty overrun on my Conti 'mufflered' '74 Guzzi 750-S is definately one of lifes pleasures!!
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  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwisfly
    So how's the double clutching work on a bike then????!!!!!
    I'm pretty sure that double clutching, is where you go to launch off the line, but your revs get pulled down too far by giving it too much clutch. So you pull the clutch in a bit to lift the revs. It's like taking two goes at launching your bike if you don't get it right first time. If done quickly, it can salvage a good launch. But will never be as good/quick as getting it right with one clutch movement.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwisfly
    So how's the double clutching work on a bike then????!!!!!
    Hasn't your bike got an H-gate shifter?
    "Standing on your mother's corpse you told me that you'd wait forever." [Bryan Adams: Summer of 69]

  8. #23
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    12th July 2005 - 13:03
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    i try and blip on my mountain bike but it ends up sounding gay......so i dont bother

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smorgen
    i try and blip on my mountain bike but it ends up sounding gay......so i dont bother
    Conclusive proof that gears are for queers.

  10. #25
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    It's one of those things - you think about doing it and you'll get it wrong... practice it then forget it and it's easy...
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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtec
    I'm pretty sure that double clutching, is where you go to launch off the line, but your revs get pulled down too far by giving it too much clutch. So you pull the clutch in a bit to lift the revs. It's like taking two goes at launching your bike if you don't get it right first time. If done quickly, it can salvage a good launch. But will never be as good/quick as getting it right with one clutch movement.
    That may be one usage of the term. However, I have usually heard "double clutching" or "double declutching" used to refer to the change technique used on non syncromesh gearboxes (eg those fitted to trucks or heavy machinery, as per the original reference). I think this was the meaning intended

    The clutch is disengaged, the gearlever moved to neutral, the clutch engaged again, the throttle blipped and the clutch disengaged again to allow the gear lever to move to the new, lower gear. But much quicker than that. On normal bikes it will not work because we do not have a H shift, hence we cannot move from (say) fifth to neutral. And the wet clutch allows enough drag that it is unnecessary.

    However, on the BMW, with its dry clutch I do indeed double declutch for the second to first shift . It works
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  12. #27
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    25th August 2005 - 16:07
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    ok

    Quote Originally Posted by Two Smoker
    Why is that??? He should do it on every downchange so it becomes natural...

    I do blipping because it makes riding far smoother, gearchanges faster and less wear on the clutch and driveline/gearbox...

    You only *need* to do it when coming through the gears hard. With every bike I have ridden the gearboxs are so close together you don't need to blip the throttle on every second gear. And it loses the cool value and sounds very boyracerist. Nicely timed through 4 to 3 or 3 to 2 and it sounds cool and will get you some looks. I don't blip the throttle ever going from 6 to 5. rarely from 5 to 4. 4 to 3 and 3 to 2 are common. Never actually get to 1 till stopped.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion
    That may be one usage of the term. However, I have usually heard "double clutching" or "double declutching" used to refer to the change technique used on non syncromesh gearboxes (eg those fitted to trucks or heavy machinery, as per the original reference). I think this was the meaning intended

    The clutch is disengaged, the gearlever moved to neutral, the clutch engaged again, the throttle blipped and the clutch disengaged again to allow the gear lever to move to the new, lower gear. But much quicker than that. On normal bikes it will not work because we do not have a H shift, hence we cannot move from (say) fifth to neutral. And the wet clutch allows enough drag that it is unnecessary.

    However, on the BMW, with its dry clutch I do indeed double declutch for the second to first shift . It works
    Yeah that's what double clutchin' is, vtec's got it crossed up, trying to manually match cog speeds because otherwise they'll mince themselves. Synchro's are a fantastic thing.

    Many a ricer does it on the way up too for some bizarre reason, but I find it easier to just slip it out of gear without the clutch, then put the clutch in as you drop it into the next one. Can get on a good flow of nudging levers and pedals for well speedy changes.

    But generally it refers to the way down.
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  14. #29
    The way I got shown how to double de clutch when I was driving old British trucks like Leylands,Albions and Atkinsons - was,in the neutral part of the shift I'd move the lever gently into gear until the dogs just started touching (no neutral detents),you could feel the gears slowing down,and when it ''felt'' right,you'd plop it into gear,sometimes we didn't even bother with the clutch,sometimes you couldn't.

    I did the same on my old singles and the slow shifting XLV750 - gently moved the lever until I could feel the gears slowing to the same speed.On a down shift sometimes I don't blip - just raise the revs to the appropriat speed and drop it in.For use with slow riders only....

    Blip on the upshift was for twinsticks - changing up on the main box,down on the aux.

  15. #30
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    11th August 2005 - 12:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion
    That may be one usage of the term. However, I have usually heard "double clutching" or "double declutching" used to refer to the change technique used on non syncromesh gearboxes (eg those fitted to trucks or heavy machinery, as per the original reference). I think this was the meaning intended

    The clutch is disengaged, the gearlever moved to neutral, the clutch engaged again, the throttle blipped and the clutch disengaged again to allow the gear lever to move to the new, lower gear. But much quicker than that. On normal bikes it will not work because we do not have a H shift, hence we cannot move from (say) fifth to neutral. And the wet clutch allows enough drag that it is unnecessary.

    However, on the BMW, with its dry clutch I do indeed double declutch for the second to first shift . It works
    Good explanation Ixion.
    Yeah was indeed tweaking the nipple!
    However interesting method on the downshift for the BMW.

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