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Thread: Brake Fluid

  1. #1
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    Brake Fluid

    So they say brake fluid should be replaced every 12 months. I didn't know if this had been done in the last 12 months and the handle was getting a little more travel lately so I took the opportunity to replace the brake fluid.
    But what with?
    Well it needs to be dot 4. I know dot 5 has a higher boiling point, but is silicone based and I understand should not be used in a system not designed for dot 5.
    So I went into repco and got a fresh bottle of dot 4 and use the vacuum bleeder to get rid of the old and replace the fluid.
    All good, feel has returned to the lever.

    But wait, there's more. Just sorting out my sons' boy racer and as it has had an engine transplant to a significantly more powerful engine I wanted to ensure the brakes were up to scratch. One thing recommended to us was racing fluid.

    It goes like this (or so they say) dot 4 fluid should boil at no less than 230c, dot 5 at no less than 250c. Now we already know you shouldn't use dot 5 in a dot 4 system, but they have dot 4 race fluid which boils at over 300c. As well as that it is supposedly less compressible.

    So I replaced the repco dot 4 fluid on the bike (only 2 weeks old now) with dot 4 race fluid. Well bugger me. the lever is now tight as a... well lets just say it is significantly tighter and has less travel and more feel to it.

    So, maybe there is a difference between the cheap shit and the expensive stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tank
    You say "no one wants to fuck with some large bloke on a really angry sounding bike" but the truth of the matter is that you are a balding middle-aged ice-cream seller from Edgecume who wears a hello kitty t-shirt (in your profile pic) and your angry sounding bike is a fucken hyoshit - not some big assed harley with a human skull on the front.

  2. #2
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    Well... I don't know anything about brake fluids... but I guess the old saying rings true...

    you get what you pay for
    I'm not a complete idiot... some pieces are missing

    Quote Originally Posted by DingDong
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  3. #3
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    also to do with brake fluid, maybe someone has an answer or some help for me:

    Tried to top up the front brake fluid on the GPX, it's one of those boxes with the 2 screws, the 1st screw came out ok, but the 2nd one just went to pieces (all mashed up, can't remember the correct word, where the screw section gets all buckled).. how do i remove the screw without braking the brake fluid box?
    “There's nothing more exhilarating than pointing out the shortcomings of others, is there? ”-Clerks

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaN View Post
    I know dot 5 has a higher boiling point, but is silicone based and I understand should not be used in a system not designed for dot 5..
    No, that's Dot5.1; Dot5 is the same as Dot3 and 4, just higher boiling point. You can interchage them without any major drama.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZeroIndex View Post
    Tried to top up the front brake fluid on the GPX, it's one of those boxes with the 2 screws, the 1st screw came out ok, but the 2nd one just went to pieces (all mashed up, can't remember the correct word, where the screw section gets all buckled).. how do i remove the screw without braking the brake fluid box?
    You're just going to have to do the best you can do persuade it to come out. first put some WD40 or whatever on it to (hopefully) lube it up. Then try to use a small straight-bladed screwdriver at an angle to get it to turn a bit, tapping the screwdriver with a spanner or snall hammer (no more than 3 or 4 kg head....) If all else fails, centrepunch the screw and drill it out carefully to remove the head. Once the head's off and the cap can be removed, apply more lube to the threads, leave a while then grab the shaft firmly with some pliers or vicegrips and undo it.
    Buy some new screws! Put a tiny smear of grease on their threads for next time.

    Worst case scenario: replacement brake cylinder and reservoir from a wrecker.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  6. #6
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    CaN, there was heaps about brake fluid in this post
    Cibby play thing

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by vifferman View Post
    No, that's Dot5.1; Dot5 is the same as Dot3 and 4, just higher boiling point. You can interchage them without any major drama.
    Are you absolutely sure on that one?
    A quick look on the web finds lots of references to dot 5 being silicone based.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tank
    You say "no one wants to fuck with some large bloke on a really angry sounding bike" but the truth of the matter is that you are a balding middle-aged ice-cream seller from Edgecume who wears a hello kitty t-shirt (in your profile pic) and your angry sounding bike is a fucken hyoshit - not some big assed harley with a human skull on the front.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by CaN View Post
    Are you absolutely sure on that one?
    A quick look on the web finds lots of references to dot 5 being silicone based.
    Right you are - I've got it arse (bottom) about face (arse).

    My bad.

    I'll now.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Postie View Post
    CaN, there was heaps about brake fluid in this post
    One thing not covered there is that the silicone based fluids don't absorb water. The water instead spearates out and travels to the lowest point (the bottom of the caliper) and stays there. Water boils at 100c. As the water boils it releases gas. The gas is compressible.
    Thus silicone fluids, although they generally have a higher boiling point can introduce problems at much lower temperatures.

    I would be very wary of using a dot 5 fluid unless the system specifies it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Tank
    You say "no one wants to fuck with some large bloke on a really angry sounding bike" but the truth of the matter is that you are a balding middle-aged ice-cream seller from Edgecume who wears a hello kitty t-shirt (in your profile pic) and your angry sounding bike is a fucken hyoshit - not some big assed harley with a human skull on the front.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZeroIndex View Post
    also to do with brake fluid, maybe someone has an answer or some help for me:

    Tried to top up the front brake fluid on the GPX, it's one of those boxes with the 2 screws, the 1st screw came out ok, but the 2nd one just went to pieces (all mashed up, can't remember the correct word, where the screw section gets all buckled).. how do i remove the screw without braking the brake fluid box?
    do you have an impact driver? that is always helpfull for removing such screws.
    From American dad :
    American dads dad: Breaking into a safe is like making love to a woman

    American dad: So you just pound on it for two minutes until your done?

  11. #11
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    Be careful with impact drivers on such a place. The reservoir is basically just a little box to hold the fluid, nothing clever about it. And the lids just a lid. But the box (and lid) are often not strong, made of muck metal. Bashing them with an impact driver and BLOODY BIG HAMMER risks the reservoir or lid cracking or breaking. I'd drill the head off the screw myself
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
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    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  12. #12
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    Back to fluids... I have two reservoirs (1 each side of the handlebars) and both have "use dot 4" on them I haven't checked the manual yet but I suspect 1 is the brake reservoir and the other the clutch. I assume they both take the same fluid? If so then I think I should change one or both out because the left reservoir fluid is a dark milky green colour and the other is clear gold (al though slightly low) Is this right?
    They shall not grow old as we that are left grow old.
    Age shall not weary them nor the years condemn.
    At the going down of the sun and in the evening,
    we will remember them

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colapop View Post
    Back to fluids... the left reservoir fluid is a dark milky green colour and the other is clear gold (al though slightly low) Is this right?
    The clutch fluid (left) is 'ted. It's not super important from a performance point of view, as it doesn't get hot, but you could end up with the master and slave cylinders full of crud, and the water in the fluid will corrode the metal parts in the system.
    Change it.

    The fluid is very slightly goldish to clear when new, although some are deliberately coloured to make 'em pretty. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) and colours as it gets more moisture in it.
    Dark = Bad; Light = Good.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  14. #14
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    another thing Col,
    on mine it looks low, but that's just 'cos of the angle i've tilted the lever, for better riding/braking position. once you level it up, it might be ok
    "Fit a front tyre you love, and put something round & black on the back"
    Il Dottore

  15. #15
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    So this weekend will be -
    Oil change (Silkolene)
    Brake fluid change/top up (Castrol 'Response')
    and take the tank off and clean the air filter.
    They shall not grow old as we that are left grow old.
    Age shall not weary them nor the years condemn.
    At the going down of the sun and in the evening,
    we will remember them

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