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Thread: Pinhole leak

  1. #16
    I have some low temp brazing rod,it will flow at a dull red temp,kinda like Silfos - but it's a 1/8 rod,which negates it's usefulness as it takes more temp to melt than a thin rod.I've had tanks and sumps I just can't stop weeping,the metal crystalises and the bronze seems to creap and open up hairline cracks.
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  2. #17
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    I was given a tip years ago by an old geezer, which I've used a few times. It seemed to work, though it might have worked anyway. Put a large thin washer, or a bit of thin steel with a small hole punched in it, over the area with the hole. Braze the hole and braze that round the inside of the washer hole, but brazing as little as possible to the metal round the pinhole. . Then run a thin seam of bronze round the outside of the washer. Theory is the washer can move slightly relative to the tank metal as it cools.

    I don't vouch for it, though the times I tried it it did work.
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  3. #18
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    Can't see the point trying to weld/braze a pinhole when there are 20 more on the rusty inside of the tank waiting to burst through.
    POR15 tank sealer is the cheapest and best option,because it deals with the rust and permanently seals it.
    And it will piss you off to know that the paint needn't be disturbed.
    Anything that tries to fix a leak from the outside,eg epoxy,is temporary.

    www.thetoolshed.co.nz has mig welders for $879.00 and disposable gas bottles for $42 .50
    If you want oxy/acetylene get a Henrob torch - low gas usage and can weld drink cans

  4. #19
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    26th April 2006 - 16:17
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    check it out, tank repair kit from por15 http://www.por15.co.nz/POR15Prod/motorcyclekit.htm
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  5. #20
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    29th March 2007 - 08:11
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    how do you apply the por15 stuff? do you just fill the tank up and let it set or what?
    If practive makes perfect, but no bodys perfect then why practice?

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by disturbed View Post
    how do you apply the por15 stuff? do you just fill the tank up and let it set or what?
    You could start by reading the instructions.
    We used the POR15 repair kit on the girl's Sporty Custom Chrome tank and it worked like a gem. It's still in there, no leaks, no hassles, it's good shit.

  7. #22
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    I used the other stuff (Kreem?) on my VF500, after soldering the tank, and it continued to spring leaks.
    From the same pinhole.

    BTW - hot melt glue's no good - the petroleum distillates make it go all mushy...

    Oh - and soldering the tank while it's full of petrol is tricky - the heat makes fumes bubble out the hole....
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  8. #23
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    23rd September 2007 - 04:12
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    Some excellent advice already posted on this thread. Avoid Kreem- it'll bite you on the arse; total waste of money. Por15 is worth a go. The welding tips that have been posted here are excellent- obviously people who know what they're talking about, although if you vent and flush a tank sensibly it's not going to go bang. Another ace resource for bike welding questions is over on Advrider forums in the Garage section. (Ask your WELDING questions here).

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