Re-Voltying... I'm going to rebuild her!

[Lee Rusty]

Aftermarket indicators 100 a set then they all match
A/M Clutch lever about 12 bux
Am Bars about 45 bux
progressive rear shocks about 300 new and better than original or wreckers
tlight wreckers about 25

rear guard wreckers about 40 -50 bux

dotn need new unless fastidious owner - all i ever want is that they should go and be legal

"Gentlemen (and ladies) we can rebuild her. We have the technology. We have the capability to make the world’s first bionic Volty. Better than she was before. Better…stronger…faster.”

My Volty got squished last week (hit from behind at a stop sign... she must have forgotten that she had her invisible powers turned on). The insurance company wrote her off because she was "uneconomical to repair."

Today I have accepted the insurance company's offer, and asked to buy her remains back. As soon as the paperwork has been trucked to my house, I will start rebuilding her!

Here's where I ask for your help. I will post a list of what I need. If you have some parts in reasonable condition that you're prepared to sell for a reasonable price, please let me know.

Some Volty bits are interchangeable with GN bits, and some are specific to a Volty. It's likely that others are fairly generic and will fit almost anything (indicators maybe?) I'm happy to use any bits & pieces that fit, on advice from my Technical Advisor (Mack the Knife).

Here's what I need (followed by the 'new' price, just for your amusement):

1 Left front indicator.......... ($114.30)
1 Clutch lever.................. ($131.40)
1 Set handlebars.............. ($147.00)
2 Rear shocks.................. ($712.80 for the pair)
1 Tail light assembly............($269.00)
1 Rear guard.................... ($233.10)

(Total = approx. $6 million)

Those are just the parts I need to get her legally back on the road. If you have other bits & pieces lying around, please let me know. It'll be like American Chopper, Volty-style.

So... what have you got that you're not using?

[paturoa]

I went past Colemans again yesterday, new visor etc, and outside was the mighty volty.

Someone had bent the rear guard back out to close to its original poistion. I would be OK as is. I'd say that a panel beater could do a few "repairs" for bugger all. Bit of silver / chrome paint and ...

If you are just interested in just getting it back on the road ready for a warrant..... from what I could see with a 30 second look all you would need would be a tail light assembly, one indicator lens (taped / glued on of course) and the clutch lever (could just file the end of it smooth in the interim), oh and a couple of bulbs.

There are probably a bunch of tail light assemblies at wreckers that you could use. You don't have to use a zook one.

Edit: I gave it a pat.

[klingon]

Handlebars: $50
Indicators 1 pair : $50
Clutch lever: $50
2 Rear shocks - need to check the wreckers in Barry's point road
Tail light assembly: $50
1 Rear guard - it's metal right? bring it round my house - I have a "Persuader" (Hammer)

Aftermarket indicators 100 a set then they all match
A/M Clutch lever about 12 bux
Am Bars about 45 bux
progressive rear shocks about 300 new and better than original or wreckers
tlight wreckers about 25

rear guard wreckers about 40 -50 bux

Someone had bent the rear guard back out to close to its original poistion. I would be OK as is. I'd say that a panel beater could do a few "repairs" for bugger all. Bit of silver / chrome paint and ...

I'm seeing an encouraging pattern emerging here
Approx $50 for handlebars
$50 for a pair of indicators (or $100 for a set)
Some token $$ for a clutch lever
Tail light assembly approx $50 after market or $25 wreckers
Rear guard $50-ish when I find one I like at the wreckers, meanwhile take a hammer to it and call it a work of art.

Yay!

[klingon]

I've just been to Action and Atomic in Barry's Point Rd. Unfortunately Atomic doesn't have any of the bits I need, but Action has a set of promising-looking handlebars for $50 (exactly as predicted by McJim and Lee Rusty). I'll wait until I get my Volty back and take her old bars along for a comparison. Apparently GN bars are higher and the Volty cables might not reach.

CycleTreads has the best range of clutch levers. Again I'll get the old one and take it along to match it up. Prices range from $10 to the huge sum of $11.50! They also have a range of indicators* some of which look a lot like the original Volty ones! Cool!





*Actually they are "decorative light sets" not to be used on the road... What's with that?!

P.S. Thanks for the pat, Paturoa.

[McJim]

*Actually they are "decorative light sets" not to be used on the road... What's with that?!

Some of the aftermarket indicators don't carry the appropriate stamp to allow your bike to pass WOF (or is it to get it VINnned?). Therefore they get sold with the word "Decorative". Oxford Halogen ones are legal and cost about $50-$60 depending where you buy them.

[klingon]

Some of the aftermarket indicators don't carry the appropriate stamp to allow your bike to pass WOF (or is it to get it VINnned?). Therefore they get sold with the word "Decorative". Oxford Halogen ones are legal and cost about $50-$60 depending where you buy them.

Ooh, that's a worry! So if I buy a set of the non-official-stamped ones and put them on my bike, I can't get a WOF? Or is it just one of those technicalities that nobody really bothers about?

The "decorative" ones cost about $25 a pair and the Oxford ones were about $50. I don't mind paying the difference, but the "decorative" ones were much closer to they style of my original indicators - the Oxfords were big and bulky and awkward looking in comparison.

[The Pastor]

I have the decrotive ones and i passed my wof with them.

You won't often fail the wof with it, but you can.

[Bonez]

EMGO should produce suitable replica indicators. MDI shocks,marketed by EMGO, go for $140 odd dollars.

[crazefox]

mate i will paint it for you

[klingon]

mate i will paint it for you

Thanks crazefox! Although hopefully it won't need painting... I protected the paintwork by making sure it landed on my foot!

[The Stranger:Me]

I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong - hell they even correct me if I am right - but it will have to be re-vinned wont it? Also if it has been totalled don't you need and engineers certificate for the frame?

[Big Dog]

I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong - hell they even correct me if I am right - but it will have to be re-vinned wont it? Also if it has been totalled don't you need and engineers certificate for the frame?

Depends.
Uneconomical to repair = No.
Unfit for intended use = yes.
Depends what the insurance company declare.

[klingon]

They said it is uneconomical to repair, and the mechanic at Colemans has assured me that ther frame and swingarm are fine. Do I need to get that in writing? I want to make sure I get all the paperwork right, instead of regretting it later.

[Big Dog]

They said it is uneconomical to repair, and the mechanic at Colemans has assured me that ther frame and swingarm are fine. Do I need to get that in writing? I want to make sure I get all the paperwork right, instead of regretting it later.

Check with colemans but the assesor we used to work with at the caryard used to remove the vin plate when it was unfit for road use (eg bent chassis).