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Thread: Air-cooled vs liquid-cooled.

  1. #31
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    Water cooled V air cooled on a road bike - I have one of each - doesn't make any difference.

    Less maintenance with Air cooled. One less thing to check.

  2. #32
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    Hm. Lez see.

    Air cooled :

    Fins. Hard to go wrong
    Air. Free and universally available

    Done

    Liquid Cooled

    Water jackets. Get blocked up. Corrode
    Coolant- expensive glycol mix.
    Water pump. Lot and lots of parts. Including bearings and seals
    Drive for water pump.
    Radiator. Expensive. Fragile. Easy damaged in a crash. Gets blocked
    Hoses and clips. Numerous They leak.
    Thermostat. Mechanical. Enough said
    Temperature sensors. Electronic. Enough said
    Temperature gauge.
    Overflow tank.
    Fan.
    Fan controller
    Fuses. Anything that uses fuses will go wrong sooner or later.

    Other bits I've forgotten .

    Which one do you reckon will be the more reliable ?
    Last edited by Ixion; 27th December 2007 at 11:59. Reason: Left out the fan
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim2 View Post
    It's directed at the entire line of GSX600/750F's.
    Ah, who cares. They're all still better looking than any of the 'real' katanas

    The katana reminds me of the Subaru Vortex. I thought it was cool - briefly - in the 80's, but that didn't last ...

    Richard

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post
    Hm. Lez see.

    Air cooled :

    Fins. Hard to go wrong
    Air. Free and universally available

    Done

    Liquid Cooled

    Water jackets. Get blocked up. Corrode
    Coolant- expensive glycol mix.
    Water pump. Lot and lots of parts. Including bearings and seals
    Drive for water pump.
    Radiator. Expensive. Fragile. Easy damaged in a crash. Gets blocked
    Hoses and clips. Numerous They leak.
    Thermostat. Mechanical. Enough said
    Temperature sensors. Electronic. Enough said
    Temperature gauge.
    Overflow tank.

    Other bits I've forgotten .

    Which one do you reckon will be the more reliable ?
    HAHA! bling on its way my friend. Probably the best description i've heard yet

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post
    Hm. Lez see.

    Air cooled :

    Fins. Hard to go wrong
    Air. Free and universally available

    Done

    Liquid Cooled

    Water jackets. Get blocked up. Corrode
    Coolant- expensive glycol mix.
    Water pump. Lot and lots of parts. Including bearings and seals
    Drive for water pump.
    Radiator. Expensive. Fragile. Easy damaged in a crash. Gets blocked
    Hoses and clips. Numerous They leak.
    Thermostat. Mechanical. Enough said
    Temperature sensors. Electronic. Enough said
    Temperature gauge.
    Overflow tank.
    Fan.
    Fan controller
    Fuses. Anything that uses fuses will go wrong sooner or later.

    Other bits I've forgotten .

    Which one do you reckon will be the more reliable ?


    Oh, well! I guess I'll just have to put up with it...
    You don't get to be an old dog without learning a few tricks.
    Shorai Powersports batteries are very trick!

  6. #36
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    30th September 2004 - 20:08
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    Quote Originally Posted by xerxesdaphat View Post
    When people talk about reliability and toughness, I always think about the consumer dirt bikes (i.e. not strung-out MXers). Single cylinder, drum brakes, spokes, carburettored, and air-cooled.
    They arn't anymore. Honda CRF250X/450X*, Yamaha WR450, Suzuki DR-Z450. And no drums to be seen either. Ick! Begone.

    The DR-Z is pretty durable, I gave mine a good solid chuck at the ground and then into some tyres and it was fine. On the same day I watched a WR400 hit the tarmac at least half a dozen times and it was fine too. I'm not saying they are more durable, but they are not fragile babies either.

    And why am I on KB on this nice day? I got sunburnt yesterday and should give my face a chance to recover. Damnit.

    * Apparently these two are pretty highly strung.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post
    Hm. Lez see.

    Air cooled :

    Fins. Hard to go wrong
    Air. Free and universally available

    Done

    Liquid Cooled

    Water jackets. Get blocked up. Corrode
    Coolant- expensive glycol mix.
    Water pump. Lot and lots of parts. Including bearings and seals
    Drive for water pump.
    Radiator. Expensive. Fragile. Easy damaged in a crash. Gets blocked
    Hoses and clips. Numerous They leak.
    Thermostat. Mechanical. Enough said
    Temperature sensors. Electronic. Enough said
    Temperature gauge.
    Overflow tank.
    Fan.
    Fan controller
    Fuses. Anything that uses fuses will go wrong sooner or later.

    Other bits I've forgotten .

    Which one do you reckon will be the more reliable ?
    Well if you put it that way! Cheers for that.
    Grow older but never grow up

  8. #38
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    At a WIMA rally, some years ago, a KZ440 motor was tortured to attempted death! Similar to a GS400/450/500 motor and aircooled. Said motor was run til it seized! Cooled down and - hey presto, fired up and ran again, glowing redder and redder, for tens of minutes, until it seized again. This happened several times until people got tired of the "sport" and wandered off.I think the motor was eventually killed, but it took some effort to do so.
    I just don't think a water cooled motor would last as long......
    “- He felt that his whole life was some kind of dream and he sometimes wondered whose it was and whether they were enjoying it.”

  9. #39
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    Water cooled bikes can't be too bad. My CX is still going strong, albeit with "quirks", after 29 years of abuse and neglet. Prefer air cooled m/c myself though for the reasons Ixion has pointed out. I do note he didn't include fuses in the air cooled list though or stators, windings, ignition units, wiring etc etc etc.

  10. #40
    Amen to what Ixion says....and as Speedo-cop pointed out they are all air cooled anyway,the correct term for a liquid cooled engine is indirect air cooled.So all that crap to get the heat to the air,and if any one of the components in the chain doesn't do it's job then the plan doesn't work and it over heats.Direct air cooled is as simple as it gets.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion View Post

    Fins. Hard to go wrong
    Ariel Square 4.

    And any 'non-transverse' multi cylinder engine.

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPman View Post
    At a WIMA rally,
    What.....the.......fuck.......?

  13. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Big Dave View Post
    And any 'non-transverse' multi cylinder engine.
    Like a V twin? The rear cyls run hotter than the front,but not enough to really worry about.Get a non contact thermometer and check temps on some of the bikes you get to ride.....nothing like finding out what is really happening.And yes,that's what I do,the Raytec fits nicely in my jacket pocket.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motu View Post
    Like a V twin?
    I meant like douglas, Indians and multis warping the heads.

    V-twins is vtwinsah

  15. #45
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    tomato, tomaeto
    i like both,
    oil/air seems to be the best combo to me - if you get a decent oil cooler system it essentially is the same as water cooled.
    Good thoery i use is this:
    1-100k's air is superior, 100-1000k water is superior. If you do any more than 1000k's in a day it doesnt matter what you ride. You are the weakest link.
    Reactor Online. Sensors Online. Weapons Online. All Systems Nominal.

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