Honda C50 `restoration'

[Ixion]

The key to this is to note what ISN'T on the wiring diagram. To wit, there is NO voltage regulator , in the normal sense.

The resistor acts as an unspeakbly crude voltage regulator, to stop the alternator overdoing things when the lights are off . When the lights are off, the alternator output at C1 on the lighting switch is switched to the resistor and to earth. When the lights are on, the alternator output is switched to , duh, the lights.

[xwhatsit]

Excellent! I love it!

So that's why it's wired into the headlight switch. My feeble compsci eyes couldn't follow the wires.

So I still don't know where the earth comes from (from the battery negative), I think I'll have to run a wire from the ignition switch. I don't think it's the original ignition switch (way too many wires, much more htan necessary, but they're not all connected) and the bracket is broken.

[Motu]

So I still don't know where the earth comes from (from the battery negative),

Earths don't come from anywhere - they go somewhere.....unless,gulp,you are a follower of the heresy that says electrons flow from negative to positive! May you be struck down with a bolt of lightening from the ground!

[xwhatsit]

Earths don't come from anywhere - they go somewhere.....unless,gulp,you are a follower of the heresy that says electrons flow from negative to positive! May you be struck down with a bolt of lightening from the ground!

Anyway I figured out why a) I don't have a connection from frame to negative battery, and b) why the engine sometimes didn't want to turn off when I switched the key off (had to stall it in gear, sometimes tricky with the auto clutch). Because the casing on the ignition switch is all broken, there is no connection from bracket to ignition switch (that little metal bit which goes around the bolt hole) and the tabs which hold the switch together aren't there, so the base of the switch pushes out a little unless you squeeze it back in. If you squeeze the base right in, it'll work every time.

So I ordered a new switch off eBay, $US10 for a knock-off, of course it means two keys now, one for the ignition and one for the steering/helmet locks.

Soldered up a tremendous amount of broken wires and connections. Even those little spring-loaded Stanley lightbulb sockets, the cap popped off that connects the wire to the bulb contact (and holds the spring in), so I had to solder that back on too, fiddly as all hell. Can't test my nice new wiring as all four of the indicator bulbs had blown before. Note that using a 12V 3W dash bulb as a testing light doesn't make the indicator relay want to flash; hopefully the correct wattage will get me what I need.

Nearly ready to start bolting everything back together.

[xwhatsit]

Woohoo, engine back in frame, nice big blue sparks too! Shame I still get nice big blue sparks with the ignition turned off too

[Motu]

What you need is a ''Villiers'' kill switch - a peice of strip steel bolted to a head bolt.With your bare finger you push the strip of steel against the bare sparkplug terminal,and the engine dies.....or you die - I can never remember which one it is.

[xwhatsit]

By the way, for anybody pulling one apart, this will be useful: http://lostabout.com/C70_65_50_manual/

Now that's a proper workshop manual! Even Haynes don't do such a nice manual, and this is OEM.

[tri boy]

What you need is a ''Villiers'' kill switch - a peice of strip steel bolted to a head bolt.With your bare finger you push the strip of steel against the bare sparkplug terminal,and the engine dies.....or you die - I can never remember which one it is.

I remember those things. Came fitted to Wisconsin stationary engines, with magneto's.
Scared the shit out of me until i got used to them. (Push down hard, and don't ease the finger pressure off till it was well dead).
Funny how none of my mates would have a go.
Starting the beasts was even more fun. Pull cord, and devil may care lunge.
Aaah, sweet memories.

[xwhatsit]

Woohoo, put some wheels on it and poured some petrol in the tank... off it goes! I should do the valve clearances, set the points, give the carb a clean too... but performance isn't bad as it is. It screams right out in second gear, valves bouncing, hook third and off it lunges again. Hit an indicated 65kph on the flat which is great.

Now for some new tyres and to finish off the seat cover.

[xwhatsit]

All right! Just a few bits and bobs that need doing now, like sewing up the seat cover and finding some mirrors etc., but it's near done. Need some new tyres, 2.25-17 front and 2.50-17 rear... some nice Chen Shings on tardme at $26 each but they're 2.50-17 fronts only. Would put a front on the back (4hp isn't going to kill it) but a 2.50 on the front is a bit big. Oh yes and a new exhaust wouldn't kill it, this one is shagged, but that can wait as funds allow.

Got my sister on it today, it's for her to ride to uni and work, so had her doing figures of eight in the street and even went for a wee pootle down the back of Ambury Farm and back. Hooked third gear even and scraped the sunny side of 40kph!

Ours is a 25yr+ Honda garage only.

[tri boy]

Going by that Cheshire Cat type grin on your sis's face, I would say she is stoked to have a bro who can twirl a spanner.
Well done.

[R6_kid:Me]

Dude, you never said you had a hot sister!

[xwhatsit]

Dude, you never said you had a hot sister!

You ride Hondas too, why would you be interested?


I got some mirrors from Wellington and some new tyres from Christchurch to replace the old bald ones. A bit disappointed with the price of the tyres, I saw 2.50 fronts and 2.75 rears for $26 apiece, but he wanted $35 and $45 for a 2.25 front and 2.50 rear. I'm not sure I want to pay that much for a tyre regularly

Nice tyres, Kings Tyre, soft rubber... 2 ply nylon, should last a while... rib pattern front and block pattern rear.

I've just changed the front. Didn't use any tyre levers (I still haven't got around to buying some), getting the old tyre off was the hardest bit, I had to use a 10mm ring spanner, slide the ring-end around to get the first side over. Putting the new tyre on I did completely by hand with a lot of puffing and panting. I didn't get new tubes, forgot about that, the old tube has a patch but it looks like it's held for years so I'll just leave it for now. Put some air into it tomorrow and see if it'll bead, service station is closed now and their hose put away.

Noticed the rim has a little pinhole of rust in it on the front. May have to look at getting some new rims and spokes... cheap in Thailand. I've spoked a 250RS alloy, that wasn't too hard, although I can't vouch for it being true. Probably not a good idea to run on the rim but it's in one small spot, the metal is very thick and solid apart from this tiny little dot (I think the bike sat around for years, maybe a bit of water pooled at the bottom of the rim?), and it's not exactly under a lot of stress at 55kph and 70kg bike.

Ignition switch arrived from Thailand too, so can wire that up and then find some indicator bulbs. BA15S is what I think they are, where on earth do you buy 6V lights from? Repco has nowt. Maybe I should just ring Malcolm at Econohonda, can't imagine they'll be too cheap though. Dicky little tail lamp bulb as well.

[Motu]

You could use LED bulbs - I know you wouldn't pay money for them....but you could gut a case and solder in an LED and fill with epoxy.Just to keep with the theme y'know...

Have you been following this? -

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=460631

[xwhatsit]

You could use LED bulbs - I know you wouldn't pay money for them....but you could gut a case and solder in an LED and fill with epoxy.Just to keep with the theme y'know...

Have you been following this? -

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=460631

I may have a lead on some bulbs...

Rear wheel is rooted too. Rear wheel bearings stuffed and a couple of bent spokes (a few seized nipples as well). Don't know why I didn't notice this before.

Anyway I've asked a bloke on the Shore with a garage full of horizontal singles for some wheels... he's got a front wheel with a stuck brake plate (how does it get stuck?! I suppose I'll find out, provided I can get it loose, what on earth) and a C90/CT90 rear wheel. Hopefully will fit the C50, we'll see. Both wheels seriously cheap so I'm not too fussed.

So I'll have to remove and refit the tyres again. Good thing it's a piece of piss, everybody should learn how to change tyres with these little 2.25/2.50 17" hoops. Maybe it's because the bead is designed for tubeless rims or something...? Not like fitting modern tyres to my RS. At least that's what I heard.

No I haven't seen that thread... I'm following it now! Although I don't rate it, that bike has telescopic bloody forks! I like the front tank, though. With the way these motors sip gas (110cc or not) you could ride for weeks at a time My mum and sister went to Vietnam and Cambodia a while back... they said they saw `fuel stations' on the side of the road that were little more than thatched shacks. They sold fuel in old Coke bottles.