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Thread: what's with 'O' ring chains?

  1. #1
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    what's with 'O' ring chains?

    my bike has now done over 10,000ks ( I know!!), and there seems to be a need to change a few bits. The back tyre for one, is being replaced at the weekend (10,000ks on a Battlaxe! Small report to come if anyone is interested..), the other I've noticed is the chain. It seems real stiff at the moment, despite how much oil I chuck on it, so was thinking about replacing it, since it's life must be up..

    What's the best chain to get then (heard of O chains, X chains, etc etc).. I want something that doesn't need oiling every 5 minutes and isn't going to wear out in 6 months time costing a grand, but I'm curious to see what other options are out there and people's experiance with chains.. Things like how much oil/lube, how much it'd stretch, feedback on the pegs, it's flexibility etc..

    ta

  2. #2
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    the sprokets don't look bad at all.. it's only 10k ks, think it'd need those too?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by bugjuice
    my bike has now done over 10,000ks ta
    Mate....... at that milage it shouldent have any wear at all, being the stock chain it should be a O ring, I never adjust mine as the more you adjust the more it streachs it only gets adjustment when a tyre is replaced. If you got 10k out of a tyre then you cant be too hard on the bike so the chain should see at least 30,000km... unless you arnt keeping it well oiled, a bitch but a must.
    cheers DD
    (Definately Dodgy)



  4. #4
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    Your chain should not be worn out yet. You should get 30,000 min out of an O or X ring chain. If you get 10,000 out of a tyre you should get up to 50,000 out of a chain. If you are using a thick wax on the chian that is why it is stiff. Unless you have damaged it or it has a damaged link. Sometimes when the chains split link is installed it can be pinched to tight and that damages the rubber seals. Just get that link replaces. I turn my sprockets back to front when they show wear. You can only do it one of course but a worn sprockets will damage a chain. To get the 50,000 out of a chain it takes regular service. I have a stand for the Gixxer and oil it with a NT oil every weekend. Chainsaw bar oil is good. Not the thick one but a thin oil hence every Friday. You have to lube the centre of a chain to stop sprocket wear not just the chians links. If you want more ks without the work get a Scott oiler. Not sure how you spell it but they oil as you ride and are somewhere arounf $250.00 I think. Good luck but that chain should be fine.

  5. #5
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    I'd have to agree with the above- it shouldn't be worn out. Have you been over tightening your chain? Remember that the chain will be at its tightest when the drive sprocket, swingarm pivot and axle are in a straight line. You need to adjust the chain so it has a very small amount of slack when everything is in line, otherwise if its too tight when the suspension compresses the chain will stretch and the suspension will not work correctly as it will be hitting a tight spot.

    Other than that- get thee a Scottoiler! Got one on my bike and I will never be without one again.
    My daughter telling me like it is:
    "There is an old man in your face daddy!"

  6. #6
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    Re chain

    Quote Originally Posted by bugjuice
    my bike has now done over 10,000ks ( I know!!), and there seems to be a need to change a few bits. The back tyre for one, is being replaced at the weekend (10,000ks on a Battlaxe! Small report to come if anyone is interested..), the other I've noticed is the chain. It seems real stiff at the moment, despite how much oil I chuck on it, so was thinking about replacing it, since it's life must be up.

    ta

    Mine 04, 35k still original chain, no sign of needing replacement, do you have a scott oiler BJ ?, oh btw agree with Ambo kid, do sprockets same time as chain just MHO.

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  7. #7
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    Yup - what they all said.

    Choin SHOULD be ok (without seeing it, it's hard to tell) but there are some basic measures you can do to test it.

    1) Get the service limits of the chain and kmeasure it (in the book it'll say 10 links should be a maximum of 105mm - or something like that).
    2) See how much sideways slop there is. In the middle of the sprockets, push the chain sides ways (at90 degress from the direction it's meant to go). Too much is bad, and it's a '"seat of your pants" judgement.

    Bike shops will tell you if the chain is good or bad at very short notice, andff they'll tension and lude it for next to nothin $15 at Colemans in Auckland, juist coz I was being a lazy so and so... and they're right by work...)

    Sprockets should be a good indicator of chain wear too... and the rule is that you always replace all three items as a set. You should be able to buy them as a set for your bike cheaper than buying the three individual items.

    If you do the chain only the old sprockets will have been worn previously, and will stretch the new chain to suit them remarkably fast. You then get to buy ANOTHER chain... and hopefully sprockets too this time...

    My guess is that your chain sounds rattly or bad and it needs a damned good lube and tension. If in doubt the bike shops'll do it real cheap as I say. Get them to show you if needed - it's a great way to learn.

    Last -best chains are X Rings, then O rings, then no rings... the price reflects it too generally...
    Good luck.
    MDU
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  8. #8
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    My bike`s on it`s original chain with equiv of 30,000ks up,most of that done by me in the last 18 months in all weathers.I`ve adjusted it slightly 4 times and theres plenty of life left in it(no Scottoiler either),bike is ridden "enthusiastically" with loads of rapid acceleration in lower gears through traffic on a daily basis.Rear 020 lasts me 16000ks. A few things will shag a chain quicker than usual.Incorrect adjustment either way,if it`s loose you`ll get "snatch" putting it under far too much strain,overtight will stretch it as well as possibly shagging bearings elsehwere.Using Parafin or petrol to clean it will destroy the actual rings in no time at all and power-washing is also a great way to destroy your chain and wheel-bearings as you happily blast all the grease/lube out.You can of course trash your chain and tyres by doing what the police here call "riding like a twat" but to do that in the distance you`ve managed would require some pretty serious lunacy.I`d say new chain and sprox(otherwise your chain will start to wear as soon as your wheels start turning) and either regular lubing/adjustment or a Scott-oiler and you`ll get at least twice the use out of your next chain,probably a fair bit more.Might be an idea to check your cush-drive rubbers as well,they might well have perished or could even be a fault with the model,ZZR600 chain-snatch is notorious,simple thing that ruins a really nice bike,later models have it sorted I believe.

  9. #9
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    Chains. We hatesss chains

    But the only way to really make them last is to boil them in grease. Oil is too thin, the centrifugal forces just throw it off, and anything thicker doesn't get into the rollers unless you boil it in. Makes the whole house stink, and mothers/wives/significant others mad as hell, when you use the kitchen stove to do it.

    Certainly sounds like the OP chain is stuffed (technical term there). With experience you can tell by eye, just revolving the rear wheel and watching how the links fall on the rear sprocket. If the sprocket's hooked the chain will be stuffed for sure.

    Chains We hatess them. Hatess them we do.
    Mind you we probably hates shaft drives nearly as much for different reasons. Maybe a Buell is the answer we haven't tried belts yet so we don't hate them. yet.
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  10. #10
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    My chain has been thrashed wheelied and oiled fuk all in the 19000k's i have done, and its fine......only had to adjust it twice......tyres, clutch, and brakes on the other hand

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ixion
    But the only way to really make them last is to boil them in grease. Oil is too thin, the centrifugal forces just throw it off, and anything thicker doesn't get into the rollers unless you boil it in. Makes the whole house stink, and mothers/wives/significant others mad as hell, when you use the kitchen stove to do it.

    Certainly sounds like the OP chain is stuffed (technical term there). With experience you can tell by eye, just revolving the rear wheel and watching how the links fall on the rear sprocket. If the sprocket's hooked the chain will be stuffed for sure.

    Chains We hatess them. Hatess them we do.
    Mind you we probably hates shaft drives nearly as much for different reasons. Maybe a Buell is the answer we haven't tried belts yet so we don't hate them. yet.
    Whats a stupid chain doing on the back wheel... Goddam primitives...

    Um - I don't think boiling an O ring chain in grease is such a cool idea. I think it would root it. Old munters like me trumpy - no sweat. I still have a can of that Duckhams graphite grease we used to boil up, stupid stuff and really easy to spill...

    Cheers

  12. #12
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    It's still practically new! Try cleaning the thing for a start, before you outlay several bazillion shekels for a new one!

    Give it a spray with WD40, or brush it down with some kero, then give it a good wipe down with a rag or paper towels (being careful not to ctach your fingers in the sprocket, of course!) If the erl/grease it was originally coated with has collected lots of dust and road spooge, of course it's gonna be a bit stiff.
    Once it's dried, follow the cleaning up with some wax or gear oil, and see what it's like then. If it's still stiff, whack it with a spoon. No wait - that's summat else...
    Ahh... if it's still stiff, then you can go and buy yourself a pretty new one with bright green side-plates or whatever.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  13. #13
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    My Bandit ate it's chain at 19000 km,in spite of fanatical lubing.So I built a chain oiler.Next chain lasted 50000 km.
    Remember,o'ring chains need regular lubing to keep the o'rings from wearing and letting the factory lube out of the bushes.
    I've fitted six oilers to other bikes now,if anyone is interested in one,let me know.

  14. #14
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    Ah, yes, my bad

    Um - I don't think boiling an O ring chain in grease is such a cool idea
    I missed the o-ring bit.

    Never used one of them myself, I wonder if the extra life makes up for the extra expense. Seems to me that with Orings, it must be near impossible to get any lubricant into the rollers (If the orings stop the original lubricant getting out must they not stop fresh lube getting in ?). Lubricant on the outside of the chain is pretty well useless, it's inside the rollers that matters. So maybe the oring chains are nice and maintainence free until the factory lube is done, then die fast ?. Sort of in line with the disposable age .
    Quote Originally Posted by skidmark
    This world has lost it's drive, everybody just wants to fit in the be the norm as it were.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Vincent
    The manufacturers go to a lot of trouble to find out what the average rider prefers, because the maker who guesses closest to the average preference gets the largest sales. But the average rider is mainly interested in silly (as opposed to useful) “goodies” to try to kid the public that he is riding a racer

  15. #15
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    Belts love it when they pick up a stone between the pulley and belt. Ask a Harley owner.Dealers love it too $$$$$$.Of course our roads are so clean it's not a problem.

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