Mechanical/restoration supervision sought

[psyguy]

... If you need any help give us a yell.

still unsure how to go about that gear-shift-lever-rod oil seal
(centre-right on the photo)
there's also like a steel ring loose behind the seal. carefull lifting with a blunt srewdriver doesn't do it
does the seal sit on any lip? pressed? glued? what's that bloody ring (that's not on microfishe)?

anyone been there before?

any help appreciated!

before i resort to brute force

[jonbuoy]

Have you got a new one to stuff in there afterwards? If you have you might end up having to spear the old one with a screwdriver and lever it off? Or a hairdryer might soften her up a bit -maybe.

[psyguy]

Have you got a new one to stuff in there afterwards? If you have you might end up having to spear the old one with a screwdriver and lever it off? Or a hairdryer might soften her up a bit -maybe.

yup, ordered one, but reluctant to butcher this one before i see the new one in my hands
on the other hand, impatient to keep waiting for it to arrive as it stalls progress and i may not even need it in the end...

[classic zed]

I have a special tool for pulling seals, give me a ring on 021 756063 if you get stuck.

The engine is looking great but it will need some sort of protective coating to make sure it doesnt corrode.

Let me know when your ready for the plug thread repair I will nip round, it takes about 5 minutes to put in a time sert.

[psyguy]

I have a special tool for pulling seals, give me a ring on 021 756063 if you get stuck.

The engine is looking great but it will need some sort of protective coating to make sure it doesnt corrode.

Let me know when your ready for the plug thread repair I will nip round, it takes about 5 minutes to put in a time sert.

sweet
will pm you
cheers

[psyguy]

... Have a close look at all your threads, remember they are getting up to 1/4 century old now, and helicoil any dodgey looking ones. Nothing worse than assembling a casing to find a damaged thread and have to start again.

yep, i listened and visually inspected all threads. they looked fine. i also assembled the crankcases with no gasket silicone and fitted and spanner tightened all the bolts. all was fine.
i took the crankcases appart, applied the gasket compound and refitted all the bolts. spanner tightened them. was very happy.
took the torque wrench out.
went to torque a bolt - the bolt rotates with no increase in resistance on the wrench...
tried the second bolt... same story
third...

managed to do some 8mm bolts but gave up on 6mm altogether after a few attempts

so, in no time i went from this to this to this to this to this to this to this to this

eventually, in the true spirit of easter i humbly retired to my garage and separated the crankcases once more...

i wasn't going to have this happen again so i sourced out some helicoils of a suitable lenght for aluminium (these weren't so easy to find) and recoiled ALL threads. yup, all of them
50 threads in total...

now i considered myself experienced with rethreading (and also experienced with a vacuum cleaner - getting all the shavings out)

but now i'm in again

[psyguy]

i was happy to hear from alpha sports (usa) that my order of spare parts is finally on the way
so, stay tuned

in the meantime here's a couple of pickys of what you don't want your pistons to look like
the discolouration and the vertical lines at the bottom of the piston - very bad for your health, i've been told (caused by the infamous "piston slap")

[Dodgyiti]

Wade Automotive Reconditioners also have vapor blasting facilities.
It was $100 to do a big block Guzzi motor, sump and timing cover. 30 years old and it looks brand new- inside and out.
Jap alloy must be different because I leave the Guzzi motors and 'boxs bare no problems.

[jonbuoy]

i was happy to hear from alpha sports (usa) that my order of spare parts is finally on the way
so, stay tuned

in the meantime here's a couple of pickys of what you don't want your pistons to look like
the discolouration and the vertical lines at the bottom of the piston - very bad for your health, i've been told (caused by the infamous "piston slap")

That wear doesn't look too bad to me from the photos - were the thrust faces way out on tolerance? On zoom I can see some heavier wear on two but hard to tell - the other two look pretty mint. Again my 2c.

[jonbuoy]

Wade Automotive Reconditioners also have vapor blasting facilities.
It was $100 to do a big block Guzzi motor, sump and timing cover. 30 years old and it looks brand new- inside and out.
Jap alloy must be different because I leave the Guzzi motors and 'boxs bare no problems.

Yeah I wouldn't think it would be too bad leaving bare ally either especially as they don't salt the roads up here - unless you park up on the beach front or leave the bike outside all the time. My 2c

[terbang]

yep, i listened and visually inspected all threads. they looked fine. i also assembled the crankcases with no gasket silicone and fitted and spanner tightened all the bolts. all was fine.
i took the crankcases appart, applied the gasket compound and refitted all the bolts. spanner tightened them. was very happy.
took the torque wrench out.
went to torque a bolt - the bolt rotates with no increase in resistance on the wrench...
tried the second bolt... same story
third...

managed to do some 8mm bolts but gave up on 6mm altogether after a few attempts

so, in no time i went from this to this to this to this to this to this to this to this

eventually, in the true spirit of easter i humbly retired to my garage and separated the crankcases once more...

i wasn't going to have this happen again so i sourced out some helicoils of a suitable lenght for aluminium (these weren't so easy to find) and recoiled ALL threads. yup, all of them
50 threads in total...

now i considered myself experienced with rethreading (and also experienced with a vacuum cleaner - getting all the shavings out)

but now i'm in again

Welcome to the GSes. Character building stuff eh. Though it looks like you are having lots of fun. I use the Recoil kits.
Enjoy B

[terbang]

i was happy to hear from alpha sports (usa) that my order of spare parts is finally on the way
so, stay tuned

in the meantime here's a couple of pickys of what you don't want your pistons to look like
the discolouration and the vertical lines at the bottom of the piston - very bad for your health, i've been told (caused by the infamous "piston slap")

Those old aircooled engines are a fairly loose fit and the pistons do get a bit beat up as they rattle their way up and down the bore. As long as the pistons and bores measure up (Mic them up) within tolerance then chuck a set of rings in and she'll be jake for another 80000 kays. That enlarged picky of the piston looks like its been gripped in a vice at some time in it's life..?

[Ixion]

I didn't think they looked too bad. The discolouration is blowby, a certain amoiunt is inevitable after a high mileage. The scoring looks like oil changes were not too regular in the past. As Mr Terbang says, an aircooled motor has to have fairly large clearances, and stuff will rattle and tattle.

[psyguy]

Wade Automotive Reconditioners also have vapor blasting facilities.
It was $100 to do a big block Guzzi motor, sump and timing cover. 30 years old and it looks brand new- inside and out.
Jap alloy must be different because I leave the Guzzi motors and 'boxs bare no problems.

is this in auckland?
can you post a photo of the finish?
the price certainly sounds all right!
cheers

[psyguy]

That wear doesn't look too bad to me from the photos - were the thrust faces way out on tolerance? On zoom I can see some heavier wear on two but hard to tell - the other two look pretty mint. Again my 2c.

yup, the cylinder bores were worn out of tolerance, past the just honing stage (4 thou out of new)
so, i'm going for oversizing
ps. it's also true i'm known for spending money on new parts even when that's not absolutely necessary