Slow reacting indicators?

[jono035]

I think you are right in that its an electronic flasher unit, if it was a bi-metal one then changing the bulbs would change the rate.

Because its electronic its probably using a rc circuit or crystal oscilator to produce the flash (dunno which one would be more common)

Can you get the flasher case open? might be something in there thats adjustable? Variable cap or something?

I don't know how much of an effect it would make but how's your charge circuit and battery voltage? if the flasher uses a feed from the battery (rather than in series with the lights) it could be timing itself on the voltage?

Grabbing at straws

HTH

Thanks for the ideas mister.koz, it's running at the correct speed, it's just that it takes 2s between me pressing the direction switch and the flashing starting. That would be a definite fix for incorrect flashing speed though. A cheaply made flasher that is using an RC oscillator would vary its timing with voltage, but any decent one should be running off a regulator for the timing portion. I think mine is probably of the extreme el-cheapo variety though...

[imdying]

Really? And when it'll take me about 10 minutes to write the code, I have a bunch of spare microcontrollers sitting around and can grab a couple of power-FETs from work for free and stick it all on veroboard in a $4 plastic enclosure, how exactly does that not make sense?

Because you can buy a flasher unit off the shelf, not yet 8:30 on a Thursday night, so probably right now, that will do the job perfectly.

If you can't make a generic flasher unit work, on a circuit that is basically nothing but a light switch, a bulb, and a battery, what makes you think you'll ever get a home grown system running?

/edit: I can't understand why you're even fucking about talking about it, all for a $12 part? btw, the last one I used was a Tridon LED04 (iirc), hope that helps.

[jono035]

My suspicion is the current one is working correctly, but it's just shit. The indicator light should go on as soon as possible after you've flicked the switch, not after 2 seconds. As I don't want to spend the time finding a flasher that works the way I think it should, I suggested that it could be a laugh building one.

And trust me, I design electronic things way more complicated than that for a living, I think an electronic flasher unit that works the way I think it should is well within my capabilities, thank you very much.

[jono035]

Thanks for the info imdying, I'm assuming that it doesn't suffer from the same problem I'm describing? At $12 then yes, it would be a waste of time, I had guessed they would be more like $30.

[imdying]

Thanks for the info imdying, I'm assuming that it doesn't suffer from the same problem I'm describing? At $12 then yes, it would be a waste of time, I had guessed they would be more like $30.

I think the first one I brought was closer to $30, but that was before I realised just how generic and boring they are (are wisened up and went to a trade shop).

/edit: No, they work like a charm. Although the Tridon one ticks, but then I can't hear it over the engine so not really worth mentioning.

[jono035]

Ticking is no concern, will see if I can find one that fits the same mounts as the existing one though, round thing with QC tabs on the base.

[The Pastor]

enough bullshit, was it dirty connections? take you 2 seconds to check.
http://cbr250.com/cbr250/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=24970


check out what this noob said

For anyone having troubles with their indicators, try this first.

I originally thought it was the flasher relay because after searching around on the net the concensus was that it was a faulty relay causing the left indicator to take much longer to come on. But after cleaning the switch gear, they come on straight away. It really didn't take very long either. I think the hardest part is positioning the screw driver to take it off and put it on. If you have a 90deg screwdriver, it would be very quick. I was a bit intimidated and thought I would stuff it up, but seriously it was dead easy. The only dumbfounding part I came across (and this was because I decided to finally put new grips on at the same time), is to make sure the little lug in the bottom part of the switch gear, goes into the hole in your handlebars - otherwise like me you'll sit there staring at it trying to work out why it wont close properly.

So if this dumb shit can do it, anyone can.

Although its amusing someone as intelligent enough to design a flasher relay with his eyes shut cant do a 2 second check to see if its dirty connections!

[jono035]

The thing is buried behind the fairings and currently in a shed that has 1 pathetic light bulb and a button you have to keep pushed in to keep it going, so I haven't got to checking it yet, but found it amusing that 2 other people expressed a (slight) interest in a more elaborate solution.

Thanks for the advice and I will check that out tomorrow, when I can actually see it.

My experience with most engineers is that they will happily spend hours devising a sophisticated solution to a simple problem, simply for the amusement of it. I am guilty of this also.

I apologise for any annoyance caused.

[CookMySock]

I apologise for any annoyance caused.

Don't, mate. Forget the non-electronics people who aren't going to "get" it. Well, not until they see your ultra-bright modulated LED indicators that stick out like dogs balls, and want to BUY one off you.

PM me if you want a beta tester.

Steve

[Squiggles]

Complete waste of time. There are literally millions of electronic flasher relays in service that have been doing so for over a decade. Reinventing the wheel in that respect would be as retarded as desiring drum brakes on a road bike.

That was a brilliant wee dig

You should be able to get a replacement relay easily (and cheaply) as imdying said

[Korumba]

Top of your indicator fluid and she will be sweet.

[jono035]

enough bullshit, was it dirty connections? take you 2 seconds to check.

Pulled the switches completely apart, little bit of crap inside the housing but the contact race was clean, solder joints onto the switch look good. QC tabs and connectors on the flasher are clean with contacts that were still tight and solidly connected... had a bit of a poke around with the multimeter and things were metering down to the lead resistance...

Will take the flasher in to work tomorrow and stick it on a load bank/scope and see what it does...

[FROSTY:Me]

Hey Jono before ya do--try fitting a lowwer wattage bulb anywhere. Id be interested to see what the result is.

[jono035]

Hey Jono before ya do--try fitting a lowwer wattage bulb anywhere. Id be interested to see what the result is.

I would if I had one!

It didn't make a difference only having a single bulb in but I'll check and see what it does at work when I hang a couple of different load resistors off it. Even with a single bulb in it is over its rating I believe...

Guess I could wire 2 bulbs in series but I really don't have that kind of motivation right now

[FROSTY:Me]

LOL--I guess you're seeing where Im going with this then dude--the other thing i'd be interested to see is if you connect up a car battery to the bike battery if things change