Looky what I got me hands on!

[Squiggles]

get camera, hit the macro mode (should be a button with a flower on it), take photos.

quicker than thousands of words

In the words of Jafa, dont you be bringing sense into this!

[Ragingrob]

Ok, so I think I've found the problem. Pretty much the float valve can fall outta it's place with no restraint... I assume that's where the seal is meant to be?

Take a look at the pics, the first is me holding the float valve outta the hole, it just comes out.

The second is the carb sitting as it would on the bike, and you can see that the valve has fallen out onto the float arm, which would pretty much hold the float right open!

So... Is this what's going wrong? Does that valve need some kinda seal?

[Ragingrob]

Alright na, that valve is meant to just sit in there and move freely ain't it? So that's fine them.

Hmmm maybe I'll give the actual valve a bit more of a clean, in case it's getting jammed or something.

Found this on Google -

Leaks
Leaks are one of the more common findings in bikes that have sat for a long time. You put fuel in, and the stuff starts leaking out of the carb. Leaks usually occur at one of three places, and while two of them you can see, the third is actually the most dangerous.

1. Overflow tube: if you have fuel coming out the overflow tube, which leads down below the engine, or at the place the tube would be if someone hadn't taken the tube off, the float bowl is overfilling. This is usually caused by a stuck float needle, and this is common in bikes which sat for a long time. The reason is, the gas gradually dries out of the float bowl, and as the level falls, the float needle opens, and then the fuel dries out, leaving resins behind which glue the needle in the wide-open position. You put new fuel in, the float bowl fills, but the needle never completely closes, causing overflow out the tube. This is fairly easy to correct, provided there isn't a lot of corrosion in the area of the needle and jet. Take all the brass parts out, clean them with brass wool and machine oil, make sure they all fit smoothly, then put it all back in. If they still bind and leak (you can test this without fuel, by reinstalling the float and blowing air in the fuel inlet tube. It should be airtight with only a little upward pressure on the float). If it still binds, get a rebuild kit and replace everything.


As the parts guy said at Honda... I'd be lucky to find much in terms of any rebuild kits or anything for this old girl!

[Slyer]

Sorry rob but WORST PHOTOS EVAR

[Ragingrob]

Sorry rob but WORST PHOTOS EVAR

Meh, photos don't matter anymore. Buy me a new camera if you'd like?

Ok so I mucked around with the float valve, seems to be moving nice and smoothly.

But now the fucker won't start! I'm thinking the damn spark plug is fouled after all that running rich as.

FUCKER!

[PirateJafa]

RagingRob raging? Surely not?

Edit: Oh and guess what raging idiot didn't remind me to bring that axle today either?

[motorbyclist]

But now the fucker won't start! I'm thinking the damn spark plug is fouled after all that running rich as.

so, did you actually check it can spark then?

running so rich things coke up isn't too great for the valves btw

[Ragingrob]

RagingRob raging? Surely not?

Edit: Oh and guess what raging idiot didn't remind me to bring that axle today either?

Well you weren't gonna get in time, so take THAT! Bring it tomo to the sign-up stand, I'll remind you.

so, did you actually check it can spark then?

running so rich things coke up isn't too great for the valves btw

Well the spark test fails now , i.e. spark against engine and there is no spark when I kick it over. So that means the spark's fouled right?

Do I adjust the air inflow screw to make it run leaner?

Well, at least petrol doesn't flow out the overflow anymore, not that the engine's run since to check that it's 100% fine.

GRRRRR

[motorbyclist]

get a new plug, or tidy up the existing one.

you can try the screw, but make only very fine adjustments and record what you've done

[Ragingrob]

get a new plug, or tidy up the existing one.

you can try the screw, but make only very fine adjustments and record what you've done

Yeah plan on a new plug tomorrow. Lol the screw I've turned so much in the past so who knows where it's at!

I wiped down the current spark plug but it's pretty dark and not nice and shiny at all

[motorbyclist]

sand paper, in gap, run through a few times, turn over, repeat, adjust gap.

will remove a bit of electrode but gets things working again.

got a default setting to turn the screw to?

[Ragingrob]

sand paper, in gap, run through a few times, turn over, repeat, adjust gap.

will remove a bit of electrode but gets things working again.

got a default setting to turn the screw to?

Roger.

Yep, "one turn" lol. Must be close it and one turn anti-clockwise.

Cause yeah, it wouldn't even fire with engine start. When I rode it yesterday it must have just been flooding the whole time and done enough damage to the spark plug to completely kill it

[Ragingrob]

Sweet got her running again, albeit very rich, spark plug blackens like a bitch! I'm gonna mess around with the air/pilot screw adjustment to see if it'll reduce the richness.

[Ragingrob]

Mucked around with the air/pilot screw and now the spark plug stays a nice tan colour... Schveeeeeeeeet!

Even got some air from a mint jump in the paddock, ha!

Gonna boost down to mate's place later, we'll see how the long-distance (a few k's) range works out.

[motorbyclist]

finally found the diagram for that (general) type of carb; really is just to basic carb theory but is also a close match for what you've got:

EDIT: and yes, the slide needle can wiggle loose within the slide and cause all sorts of havoc