Hey guys thought id put a post in here to.
gsxr400 race bike thinking bout total loss ignition.
Do you lose the rotor altogether?.
Need a bit more performance to keep up with couple of nsr's
Hey guys thought id put a post in here to.
gsxr400 race bike thinking bout total loss ignition.
Do you lose the rotor altogether?.
Need a bit more performance to keep up with couple of nsr's
winding up stucky since ages ago
Why not ! Less rotational mass and better acceleration, bit nastier to get off the line though.
You can remove the flywheel - i have done it and the dyno shows 0 extra hp because of it.
It does accellerate harder but your coils break down when the voltage gets to low( like when your rad fan comes on ) - so then you'll go slower than a NSR.....
also you will never get off the line as warren says.
Ive gone back to having a flywheel, no charging between races - i don thave a starter system thou that saved me bout 2 kilos. ive got plenty of power with it on
I GSXR should keep with a NSR.??... if not sell her and buy a ZXR mate, they eat them for breakfast
Chappy
Come see what the fuss is about....................http://www.californiasuperbikeschool.co.nz/
by breaking down do you mean they just stop working untill you charge the battery again or do they fry themselves?.
the fan not a prob cos i got it on a manual switch and it doesnt need it on anyway.
the nsr,s are pretty trick and im a fat bugger on a stock bike after cheep mods cos saving for wedding on november lol
winding up stucky since ages ago
If you don't want the stator loading pulling your engine down, just pull the stator plug before the race, otherwise leave it plugged in to charge. You could even just pull one wire of three (or even two wires if its star-grounded) and it will still charge somewhat.
You MIGHT stress the electrical insulation in the stator by allowing its' voltage to freewheel unclamped (the regulator normally shunts it off at around 20V max), but I wouldn't have thought so - that insulation is rated for 1000V easily and the stator shouldn't hit more than 200V.
Alternatively, you might put a switch in the regulator output to the battery, but I would have some concerns for the safety of the R/R if you did that.
Steve
"I am a licenced motorcycle instructor, I agree with dangerousbastard, no point in repeating what he said."
"read what Steve says. He's right."
"What Steve said pretty much summed it up."
"I did axactly as you said and it worked...!!"
"Wow, Great advise there DB."
WTB: Hyosung bikes or going or not.
The coils need around 13v (on a kawaka) to fire sweet at high rpm, you start to get a miss in high revs if you dont hve that voltage. They dont fry just start to run out of juice.
hear ya on the wedding im getting hitched in jan. Gearing would be my first place id be looking. cheapest hp you'll get, followed by 1/4 turn throttle. HUGE difference.
Chappy
Come see what the fuss is about....................http://www.californiasuperbikeschool.co.nz/
you still behind em ay. hows the motard rounds going????
haha no. crashed (again i know, shut up) at levels last round so still fixing it up.
if you want to make your bike quicker the easiest place to start will be sticking it on a diet, i bet theres lots of nice steel bits that could pretty easily get turned into nice new shiny alloy bits
Were the nurses in timaru better lookin than inver,s.
Do much damage this time?.
As for the diet well the best place to start would probably be the rider sheeding massive amounts of poundsbut i might try the flywheel loss and see wot difference that makes.
Yours is total loss [ignition i ment not the whole bike but give you time] have you still got the rotor in yours?
Oh and the whole bike frame is alloy so no steel bugger.
winding up stucky since ages ago
no i managed to keep all the body pieces in the right spots so not sure on the timaru nurses.
broke my front subframe and destroyed the new fairings but willk be back better than ever (assuming the weather is nice) at the end of the week.
your subframes and the like will all be steel and there will be shit loads of wiring to get rid of too. i just made up a new subframe for my front fairing and its prob 200 grams. not a kilo or so for the stock one. little bits everywhere.
yea mines got no rotor in it. thats why mine spins up quite fast if you play with the throttle. but as far as i am aware it never reallly helped much. and starter motors and no battery charges seems such a charmed existence.
you crash before your battery goes flat so no worry,s there
.
i cot some nice fairings comin for the impulse that would maka a good patern so maybe i should start makin some sounds like there might be a ready market in dunnersas if i market them as vfr ones id make a fortune![]()
winding up stucky since ages ago
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