Trouble starting...

**magicmonkey** · 27th March 2010, 12:38

just replaced the o-rings for the fuel line and the vacum line (the two hoses that join and then go to the airbox) that did involve seperating them all though so the re-assembly could have caused the issue. Not sure how though as I didn't even take the bowls of and everything I touched is where it should be.

**kwaka_crasher** · 27th March 2010, 13:11

Originally Posted by magicmonkey

just replaced the o-rings for the fuel line and the vacum line (the two hoses that join and then go to the airbox) that did involve seperating them all though so the re-assembly could have caused the issue. Not sure how though as I didn't even take the bowls of and everything I touched is where it should be.

You never took the bowls off despite dismounting the carbs from the spacer rail in order to replace the rigid fuel line o-rings and no doubt disturbing the sediment in the bowls in the process?

Jesus H. Christ.

I hope you used viton for the seals not nitrile although somehow I doubt it.

**bogan** · 27th March 2010, 13:30

this what you have here aye? http://www.cycle-parts.com/selectpar...e=13&A=562&B=5 It could be theres a vaccum hose bunged in the wrong place, trace them from that and have a look.

**magicmonkey** · 27th March 2010, 14:28

Originally Posted by kwaka_crasher

You never took the bowls off despite dismounting the carbs from the spacer rail in order to replace the rigid fuel line o-rings and no doubt disturbing the sediment in the bowls in the process?

Jesus H. Christ.

I hope you used viton for the seals not nitrile although somehow I doubt it.

lol, there's no sediment in the bolws and I made sure tha the o-rings I got were fuel proof and ok to use in carbs, even bought them form an auto shop and everything

**magicmonkey** · 27th March 2010, 14:31

Originally Posted by bogan

this what you have here aye? http://www.cycle-parts.com/selectpar...e=13&A=562&B=5 It could be theres a vaccum hose bunged in the wrong place, trace them from that and have a look.

looks like that's for the ex250 which they were calling a ninja and selling in america at the time which is a shame, thanks for the hunt though, appreciated.

Unfortunately the maunal is a bit shoddy on the subject of vaccum lines as it's only the c model manual (a model one just doesn't seem to exist) and they changed the vaccum line lay out considerably. I'm pretty sure they're all going to the right place though as the engine has been running fine with them pointing where they are (and I can't see any other places for them to go either which is a good sign!)

**bogan** · 27th March 2010, 14:36

Well if you're sure its all exactly as it was when it was running fine, why isn't it running fine? Something has to be different, its now narrowed down to no fuel getting to the engine, rip off the airbox and look down into the carbs to see whats hapening when you try and start it up, verify the throttle slides/butterflies are operating as they should etc...

**magicmonkey** · 27th March 2010, 15:39

Originally Posted by bogan

Well if you're sure its all exactly as it was when it was running fine, why isn't it running fine? Something has to be different, its now narrowed down to no fuel getting to the engine, rip off the airbox and look down into the carbs to see whats hapening when you try and start it up, verify the throttle slides/butterflies are operating as they should etc...

probably a really silly question, but what should the slides be doing?

**T.W.R** · 27th March 2010, 15:42

Originally Posted by kwaka_crasher

Genuine Kawasaki manual showing Keihin float height setting adjustment.

Then there's this from Keihin themselves.

I'm not going to bother scanning a posting the whole documents from the service manuals but all do say invert fully till the float hangs down then tilt back until the float valve needle is just seated (the rod in the end of the needle valve should not be compressed) and the importance of that is too insure the valve is seated before taking a measurement

**kwaka_crasher** · 27th March 2010, 15:59

Originally Posted by magicmonkey

lol, there's no sediment in the bolws and I made sure tha the o-rings I got were fuel proof and ok to use in carbs, even bought them form an auto shop and everything

If you didn't remove the bowls I suggest you do not know that. Simply draining them is insufficient.

I've yet to see an 'auto shop' stock anything but nitrile either.

Originally Posted by T.W.R

I'm not going to bother scanning a posting the whole documents from the service manuals but all do say invert fully till the float hangs down then tilt back until the float valve needle is just seated (the rod in the end of the needle valve should not be compressed) and the importance of that is too insure the valve is seated before taking a measurement

If you check the post I was replying to initially you'll see that I was saying do not measure the float height with the carb fully inverted. Of course the needle has to be seated.

**magicmonkey** · 27th March 2010, 16:08

Originally Posted by kwaka_crasher

If you didn't remove the bowls I suggest you do not know that. Simply draining them is insufficient.

I've yet to see an 'auto shop' stock anything but nitrile either.

well, I've had the bowls of now, purely out of paranoia, and double checked them. They're still as clean as the day I cleaned them which is good, at least now I know

**kwaka_crasher** · 27th March 2010, 16:32

Then moving right along... how are the float heights and float valves & seats?

**magicmonkey** · 27th March 2010, 16:48

Originally Posted by kwaka_crasher

Then moving right along... how are the float heights and float valves & seats?

well, I checked the fuel levels last night, they were out by a couple of mm on each cylinder which the manual recons is ok so I left them as they were. I've checked the valves before and the rubber part isn't deteriorated at all so that all looks fine. I'm kind of hoping for a eureka moment about now but I think I'm going to put the bike down and have a beer instead, I've had enough of scratching my head for one day!!

**bogan** · 27th March 2010, 17:40

Originally Posted by magicmonkey

probably a really silly question, but what should the slides be doing?

depends on the carby type, if they are fixed directly to the throttle cable, they should move with it, if theres a butterfly in there they should bounce up and down a bit, different hieghts for different throttle positions, and they should all be doing the same thing!

**magicmonkey** · 27th March 2010, 17:51

Originally Posted by bogan

depends on the carby type, if they are fixed directly to the throttle cable, they should move with it, if theres a butterfly in there they should bounce up and down a bit, different hieghts for different throttle positions, and they should all be doing the same thing!

ok, another silly question, am I right in thinking that the part you're callins slides is the plastic tube with the rubber diaphram holding the needles?