Who's riding naked?

[Ray LeCheminant]

Yikes, PMT time!
.

or WOW - SAVA Time ..

[imdying]

Haven't had the pleasure yet, but looking forward to comparing them

[daz71]

you take your fairing off mike only for the weight thing lol

[{.bLanK}G_o_D]

Seriously out of whack wheel-allignment, causing chains to come off.

This is how I do it.

#1 Loosen off rear wheel, rear brake caliper and bracket, rear exhaust mount, loosen 4 bottom engine bolts and remove the single top engine mount bolt (so your motor will jiggle around) remove chain.
#2 Adjust rear wheel all the way forward and semi tighten.
#3 Hold a straight edge (longer than the wheelbase of the bike) against the side of the front tyre firmly. Now while holding the straight edge on the tyre, move the bars side to side, the straight edge will move with it. Now when the straight edge touches the side of the rear tyre, you can measure how "True" you wheels are running. Remember the front tyre is narrower than the back so allow for that when truing the rear. Hold the straight edge on both sides of the bike to check.
#4 Adjust rear wheel so both front and rear are running true. (pointing the same way)
#5 Now the wheels are true, hold a smaller straight edge across the side of the rear sprocket (providing it's not bent) and now you can true your sprockets.
#6 Move motor on it's loosened mounts until the sprockets are running true.
#7 Tighten 4 bottom engine mount bolts first, check sprockets are true again, now you will probably need to space the top engine mount bolt before tightening it up.
#8 Put chain back on. When adjusting the chain, ignore the position of the adjusters, eye the chain up so it runs straight.

Now your wheels and sprockets are running true there will be less wear on tyres, sprockets and chains, less friction from wheels pointing in different directions which equals GO FASTER. Win Win IMHO.

Did anybody not understand that? Maybe I'll write a tutorial for the forum.

[Junkers]

I ride naked, feels much more natural.

[Genie]

I ride naked, feels much more natural.

damn chilly at the mo, don't you think?

[888mike]

The other thing with the shit in the carb, if you drain the fuel after racing and don't use the tap on the carb as they break down and you end up with bits of rubber and plastic in the bowl. I have even drilled down through the tap so you get free flow through to the carb.

[imdying]

Screw those ghey little carbs and they're attrocious fuel tap rubbers!

I've sorted out some quick disconnects, some tygon fuel line, some inline fuel taps, and some genuine Dellorto carbs... sorted!

Ok yes the fuel system now costs twice what I paid for the entire bike, but you can't take it with ya!

[Nutter34]

Some are better than others, try to get the one with the dual adjuster pins.
Make a mount the muffler as well as replacing the rear mount.
That's a new one on me!
Buy some thick walled steel tubing and make new spacers of the right sizes. Replace the chains with DID or other quality item. Wilson Bros is where we get them.
Yikes, PMT time!
Lovely aren't they
Must be, we don't use them and don't block jets.

Well, one guy had his brake caliper guide pin come out within five minutes. After that, EVERYONE did the Locktite mod on those and the adjuster bolt.
As for the exhaust, yip, we've got some 'spare' plate lying around, so done brackets for security.

Heard a new one last night. One guy doesn't have threads in his cylinder, where the exhaust bolts up... He's been having issues with his exhaust coming loose. He's using a nut to hold it in, lol.

As for the fuel filter, we cut the stock one open. Pretty much a piece of gauze. Oh, there was a small magnet inside too. Anyway, two of us are now running new filters, so it'll be good to see. In fact, the other guy had issues with running. It turns out, he replaced his hoses and they were a tad long. The bottom hose made a big turn, higher than the filter. It had a big air bubble in it. (Clear hose, so we could see it). He would run out of fuel on speed runs. So, we fiddled some and got the air bubble out, all sorted.

Thanks for the other suggestions. Will follow them up.

[imdying]

Well, one guy had his brake caliper guide pin come out within five minutes. After that, EVERYONE did the Locktite mod on those and the adjuster bolt.

Waah, shouldn't the circlip on the other side stop it from coming out though? Mind you, I've had the retainer for that circlip grind itself off on a disc

Heard a new one last night. One guy doesn't have threads in his cylinder, where the exhaust bolts up... He's been having issues with his exhaust coming loose. He's using a nut to hold it in, lol.

Hahahah, Phil had that, tapped it out to M8x1.25... now he has to do the other one too!

It turns out, he replaced his hoses and they were a tad long. The bottom hose made a big turn, higher than the filter. It had a big air bubble in it. (Clear hose, so we could see it). He would run out of fuel on speed runs. So, we fiddled some and got the air bubble out, all sorted.

Hahahah, nice.

Thanks for the other suggestions. Will follow them up.

I'll make a place to stick all of these things with pictures, then we can share and compare notes. Only thing worse than being let down on a days racing would be to travel and be let down. You guys should rock on down if you've got a van!

[Nutter34]

This is how I do it.

#1 Loosen off rear wheel, rear brake caliper and bracket, rear exhaust mount, loosen 4 bottom engine bolts and remove the single top engine mount bolt (so your motor will jiggle around) remove chain.
#2 Adjust rear wheel all the way forward and semi tighten.
#3 Hold a straight edge (longer than the wheelbase of the bike) against the side of the front tyre firmly. Now while holding the straight edge on the tyre, move the bars side to side, the straight edge will move with it. Now when the straight edge touches the side of the rear tyre, you can measure how "True" you wheels are running. Remember the front tyre is narrower than the back so allow for that when truing the rear. Hold the straight edge on both sides of the bike to check.
#4 Adjust rear wheel so both front and rear are running true. (pointing the same way)
#5 Now the wheels are true, hold a smaller straight edge across the side of the rear sprocket (providing it's not bent) and now you can true your sprockets.
#6 Move motor on it's loosened mounts until the sprockets are running true.
#7 Tighten 4 bottom engine mount bolts first, check sprockets are true again, now you will probably need to space the top engine mount bolt before tightening it up.
#8 Put chain back on. When adjusting the chain, ignore the position of the adjusters, eye the chain up so it runs straight.

Now your wheels and sprockets are running true there will be less wear on tyres, sprockets and chains, less friction from wheels pointing in different directions which equals GO FASTER. Win Win IMHO.

Did anybody not understand that? Maybe I'll write a tutorial for the forum.

That's good info. I actually hadn't thought about loosening the motor mounts when doing it. Will have a look. We've done the wheel allignment though, ignoring the marks. Seems most of the bikes had the rear wheels pointing way left.

[Nutter34]

Waah, shouldn't the circlip on the other side stop it from coming out though? Mind you, I've had the retainer for that circlip grind itself off on a disc

There are two mounting points. The adjusable and the guide. The guide is pretty much just a screw. It was this one that came out.

Hahahah, Phil had that, tapped it out to M8x1.25... now he has to do the other one too!
Hahahah, nice.
I'll make a place to stick all of these things with pictures, then we can share and compare notes. Only thing worse than being let down on a days racing would be to travel and be let down. You guys should rock on down if you've got a van!

Yeah, I'm surprised there isn't a sticky on basic start-up/things to do... We're all mechanically inclined, so we fiddle anyway, lol.

One guy had his bike running like 10 minutes and he'd already taken to his clutch springs... Just a tweak, to get them engaging a tad quicker... A few guys have done that now too...

Mmm. We'll see about a trip down. Sounds good though. We'll need a bit more practice, otherwise we'd just be road blocks, lol. We don't actuall have a track. We've just been blatting up and down. We used a few road cones the other night for a small track but not again since...

As for the other fuel line mods... We'll get there. Only had the bike just over a week now... LOTS of time to play, lol.

[imdying]

There are two mounting points. The adjusable and the guide. The guide is pretty much just a screw. It was this one that came out.

Ahhh, yeah, the two adjuster ones are the best

One guy had his bike running like 10 minutes and he'd already taken to his clutch springs... Just a tweak, to get them engaging a tad quicker... A few guys have done that now too...

Haven't gotten into that yet, would be keen to hear how you're doing it

Mmm. We'll see about a trip down. Sounds good though. We'll need a bit more practice, otherwise we'd just be road blocks, lol. We don't actuall have a track. We've just been blatting up and down. We used a few road cones the other night for a small track but not again since...

Naw, a couple of our guys are getting quick, but mostly we just putt around There's a shop here in Chch that sells stacks of soccer practice cones, about $0.50 each, Phil will be along with the details, I think we have about 300 now.

Keep all your old tyres too, we're painting them all white with red stripes, and would love some more.

[Nutter34]

The clutch mod... It's a bit gash but...

Remove the outer assembly so you access to the clutch springs etc, still on the bike. What the guys have done, is to shove a flat screwdriver into the spring, say half way. What this does, is to tweak the spring, since it's soft and make it a fraction longer, maybe 0.5mm to 1mm. It just means it takes a tad lower in the revs. Refit everything.

I've definately heard the difference between the bikes. Before the mod, the bikes would scream and eventually get up to speed. With the tweak, you can hear the motor spin up, clutch engages, the motor bogs just a tad then speeds up. It just engages earlier... Better for drive out of the corners too.

Hope that's a sufficient description...

Okay, I'll let the guys know to keep the tyres. We can use them for that too, lol.

[{.bLanK}G_o_D]

Yip my brake caliper guide pin has come out and been loctighted back in.
Cones like ours you can buy online from a Christchurch store here "Soccer Direct"