The firearm thread

[jono035]

Seeing as you like the smell so much, raw linseed oil + pot + stove? :P

[Mr Merde]

Seeing as you like the smell so much, raw linseed oil + pot + stove? :P

Dangerous

Linseed has a very low flash point.

You will need to look around for real boiled linseed. Try cabinet makers, french polishers supplies etc.

The chemically boiled will give you a lovely sheen but not as deep as that imparted by proper boiled linseed.

Also once you have finished you should rub about a half of a teaspoons worth in to the woodwork every 3-6 months.

Just keeps the nice sheen vibrant.

[Wolf]

Seeing as you like the smell so much, raw linseed oil + pot + stove? :P

That had crossed my mind...

Dangerous

Linseed has a very low flash point.

And so had that.

It was the "wash brushes and cloths then air them thoroughly before storing or disposal - cloths may become spontaneously combustible" warning on the bottle that tipped me off that I was dealing with something pretty dangerous...

Cheers for the advice, Chris, I guess I have a couple of weeks (during which time I'll be applying raw linseed/turpentine mix) in which to locate some proper boiled linseed.

[Mr Merde]

....

Cheers for the advice, Chris, I guess I have a couple of weeks (during which time I'll be applying raw linseed/turpentine mix) in which to locate some proper boiled linseed.

I spent about 2 months getting the rolling block ready before I started on the boiled linseed.

You want to apply as much of the raw/turps as possible up to the point where it doesnt absorb any more and after a couple of days resting it is still tacky. Dont forget to use a piece of woolen carpet to rub the stock when it is tacky. This works the mixture into the grain.

Another hint--

during this process the wood fibres may lift so with a very fine pice of sand paper just give it a quick wisk. A piece of glass used as a scraper works wonderfully.
By doing this you will find that as well as having a lovely looking finish you will have that smooth as glass feel to it also

[jono035]

Ok, so raw linseed oil + pot + stove + old outhouse + video camera = youtube gold...

[Mr Merde]

Ok, so raw linseed oil + pot + stove + old outhouse + video camera = youtube gold...

If an impregnated cloth is capable of spontaneous combustion then adding a heat source has the possibility of mayhem

[jono035]

If an impregnated cloth is capable of spontaneous combustion then adding a heat source has the possibility of mayhem

Hence the video camera and youtube

[Wolf]

during this process the wood fibres may lift so with a very fine pice of sand paper just give it a quick wisk.

Yep, had that happen with my Miroku lever years ago, some fine wet-and-dry while it was still wet with linseed made for a very smooth finish.

[Swoop]

A piece of glass used as a scraper works wonderfully.

A new stanley knife blade will do the same. Use it like a cabinet scraper.

[biggles1]

I am in the process of forming a gun collection of air pistols and have been buying up big time on trade me have so far gathered in 5 x P23 Gamos,6 x PT80'S and a Gamo V3 with holster in addition a brand new Gamo Shadowline Rifle 820f/ps with self loader.Anyone looking to sell send me a PM.

[Wolf]

Good to see another collector. Small query: Why so many of the same makes/models? I've got a 'laundry list" of firearms I would love to own - given the money and appropriate licences - and no two are the same.

You also seem to have a nice "collection" of bikes...

[Wolf]

The CZ'z stock is looking, feeling and smelling very nice so far - got some raw linseed and made up the 1:1 with turps as Chris suggested. Managed to get three applications on yesterday arvo while it was nice and warm outside. Gave it a rub down with some 600-grit "wet 'n' dry' between one application and the next and it smoothed up very well. Will get some finer paper for later once I've rubbed more oil into it.

I walk into the house and can instantly smell linseed oil. It's pervaded the house except for my bedroom - where the smell of bore cleaner overpowers it (dropped a cleaning swatch on my bed while cleaning the bore and action and the smell's stuck around). On the whole, the house smells like an armoury. Boys'll come home from their mum's and wonder what the weird mix of smells is.

Need to set up the press in the lounge and load up some shells just to ensure there's the smell of unburned BP in the house as well

Looking forward to when she's all finished and reassembled.

[Mr Merde]

WOlf,

Just keep at it. Rub the mixure in every night. then leave it to soak in for about 12 hours, rub some more in. Eventually it will get to a stage where it cant absorb any more. You then let it dry and start by hand rubbing the woodwork. The mixture will get worm and soakin a bit more. Let it dry off then start with the boiled linseed. About a teaspoon full at a time hand rubbed into the wood should provide enough for the whole stock. Rub it in let it settle for a few hours 12 approx) then repeat. This will build upthe depth of finish that is so nice to look at.

As I said it took me a couple of months to achieve what I now think of as just a passable finish on the rolling block.

I'm looking aroud for a new project now.

Just had some plans sent to me from the US.

Working plans and instructions on building a Gatling gun. All the engineering instructions etc.

Both for a .22 model and a copy of the 1905 Colt Galing gun in .30 calibre.

No woodwork but lots of lovely brass.

Chris

[Wolf]

Chris.

Just so's we're on the same page, here, how do you recommend applying the mixture?

What I've been doing is applying it to the stock with a brush, letting it dry to "tacky" then rubbing it with a cloth. That's what I did three times yesterday and a number of times the other day with boiled linseed/turps mix.

Do you use/recommend a different way of applying the mixture?

When I did the rub with the wet 'n' dry paper, it was while the stock was still wet from a fresh application of the mixture then rubbed it dry and put on a fresh application of mix and let it dry to tacky then rubbed it in as before.

[Mr Merde]

Chris.

Just so's we're on the same page, here, how do you recommend applying the mixture?

What I've been doing is applying it to the stock with a brush, letting it dry to "tacky" then rubbing it with a cloth. That's what I did three times yesterday and a number of times the other day with boiled linseed/turps mix.

Do you use/recommend a different way of applying the mixture?

When I did the rub with the wet 'n' dry paper, it was while the stock was still wet from a fresh application of the mixture then rubbed it dry and put on a fresh application of mix and let it dry to tacky then rubbed it in as before.

Sounds like a good procedure. What the mixture is doing is sealing the grain. It should eventually soak completely through the wood. Check your butt with out the plate on and you will see it slowly start to meet from either side.

Try using 1200 wet and dry paper or a piece of glass to cut the wood fibres that stick out. You dont want to remove anywood just shave those whiskers that protrude, off.

You can probably go to twice a day for the application of the mixture as it does need time to really soak in.

I bet you have the beginnings of a really deep shine on the wood now. Just wait it gets better. It will also get darker.

The application of the boiled linseed build up on the surface and gives an impression of depth to the whole project.

English finish is what we are doing here and is traditionally only done on the best firearms.


Once finished any knocks or bruises will lift right out. If they dont then a little heat applied with a damp towel on the wood and an iron place on the cloth will lift them right out. Be carefull with the iron though as it is easy to burn the wood if applied to long. Just long enough to produce steam that does the work for you is good.

Chris