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Thread: Correct technique in fast sweepers?

  1. #31
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    Track days and such could be the key here Hans, not suggesting that your a crap rider. Any bike will react to minute changes in how you shift your weight and hold yourself when you corner.

    I found when I first got the big Ducati that I was a bit intimidated by it so I'd tense up in corners. I can tell you that all you have to do is think about cornering and the SS is round it, so by tensing up I was causing it to understeer (so too speak). I've found the key is the basics such as look in the direction you want to go (big no brainer but that basic works no matter how fast your going) and relax.
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  2. #32
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    The thing that has not been mentioned is pushing forward on the inside handlebar. It gives dampening, only a little is required in a sweeping corner. Basically works with the counter steering and stabilises the bike.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bandit Rider View Post
    The thing that has not been mentioned is pushing forward on the inside handlebar. It gives dampening, only a little is required in a sweeping corner. Basically works with the counter steering and stabilises the bike.
    +1, this is a good technique.
    Exert your talents, and distinguish yourself, and don't think of retiring from the world, until the world will be sorry that you retire. -Samuel Johnson


  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bandit Rider View Post
    The thing that has not been mentioned is pushing forward on the inside handlebar. It gives dampening, only a little is required in a sweeping corner. Basically works with the counter steering and stabilises the bike.
    Thats fine unless you're riding a really nicely balanced bike that doesn't require any steering input mid corner. I could pretty much let go of the bars on my old Speed Four mid corner and it'd just keep doing what it was doing.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hans View Post
    With respect, I think you're missing the point. The bike is fairly close to being perfect. What I am asking for is some technique advice to get more out of an already reasonably sorted bike.
    A little but my point was that I have ridden other standard road bikes and had no issues with sweepers, cornering etc bar on the RF900.

    I happy to conced that your bike has been modified a far bit... but the problem you discribed sounded very familiar.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devil View Post
    Thats fine unless you're riding a really nicely balanced bike that doesn't require any steering input mid corner. I could pretty much let go of the bars on my old Speed Four mid corner and it'd just keep doing what it was doing.
    With correct throttle control, this can be acheived on almost any bike.
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  7. #37
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    For what it's worth, I'm a tootler not a racer, I have found body position to have a considerable effect on the stability of my bikes. Things like weighting the pegs, gripping the tank & moving body weight forward, back, left & right to keep the bike composed. Accelerating from the apex, even gently has a stabilising effect. I notice you use a left hand corner as an example. Not quite sure why but myself & other riders I know are far more confident / committed through right handers than left as my stuffed front tire will attest.
    Maybe have a tutu on some familiar corners thinking about your weight shift (smoothly) to see if it makes a difference. It does not take much change in input to make a big difference to the bike.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hans View Post
    Fair enough. What might that cost? The question is a theoretical one only, since I'll be pretty broke for the next two years at least, but I thought I'd ask anyway.
    Agree - technique! Less than $200 with experienced racer/trainer at Manfield...must be worth it - I am going from Nelson!

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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eyegasm View Post
    With correct throttle control, this can be acheived on almost any bike.
    On the assumption that the tyres are good and suspension is balanced... even then it's a stretch to say almost any bike.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eyegasm View Post
    With correct throttle control, this can be acheived on almost any bike.
    I think you are missing the point here, a correctly balanced bike doesn't need any control input, counter steering, throttle, body position, to maintain a line.

    To Hans, sounds like the RF is naturally heavy on the front so unless you want to invest in re-suspending it you are looking for a way to ride around the limitations, my suggestions are tyre sizes / widths and training.....Riffers cheap!

    Just so that doesn't sound condescending, all my bikes (being dual purpose) are compromised on the road so riding around the limitations is a way of life for me.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bandit Rider View Post
    The thing that has not been mentioned is pushing forward on the inside handlebar. It gives dampening, only a little is required in a sweeping corner. Basically works with the counter steering and stabilises the bike.
    +1 on this...I struggled with it a bit on roadbikes when I first got off trailies....
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  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEATH_INC. View Post
    +1 on this...I struggled with it a bit on roadbikes when I first got off trailies....
    I think I learned this intuitively when going down the 'Straight' at Hampton Downs at speed on the mighty SV. You have to put a lot of pressure on the bars to keep it turning while going over the famous jump/bump/hump (pick one depending on your speed)
    Buckets Practice

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by javawocky View Post
    I think I learned this intuitively when going down the 'Straight' at Hampton Downs at speed on the mighty SV. You have to put a lot of pressure on the bars to keep it turning while going over the famous jump/bump/hump (pick one depending on your speed)
    .
    Get your turning movement done before you hit it. You're most likely to unsettle the thing by still leaning on the bars at that point.
    Come out of 6 up towards 7 slightly to the left, then initiate your turn before the hump. Once the bike is turning you can get rid of the steering input and go straight over the hump (still leaning of course).

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devil View Post
    .
    Get your turning movement done before you hit it. You're most likely to unsettle the thing by still leaning on the bars at that point.
    Come out of 6 up towards 7 slightly to the left, then initiate your turn before the hump. Once the bike is turning you can get rid of the steering input and go straight over the hump (still leaning of course).
    I think I was getting most of my turning done after the bump, but I was going over it way slower than most of the top boys.

    What I did observer at the nations was Bugden and Stroudy turning form really wide before the bump and the bump hardly effecting them while Mr Sherrifs (sorry) was having a harder time of it, getting more air and having to be more brave to bring it around.

    Anyway, I look forward to getting back and honing the skills.... ( what skills?)
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  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by javawocky View Post
    What I did observer at the nations was Bugden and Stroudy turning form really wide before the bump and the bump hardly effecting them while Mr Sherrifs (sorry) was having a harder time of it, getting more air and having to be more brave to bring it around.
    Yep, thats what i'm talking about.
    Yer if you're going quite a bit slower straight-line it over the bump then turn. Keeps everything pretty tidy.

    Bah, I need another track bike. (err and to get this cast off).

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