Right, to answer the first question...Unlike RPM, too mush torque does not make a hand grenade of your motor.
Peak power is just below the red lineusually but peak torque is often 50 to 70% of the max RPM.
Power does not accelerate, torque does.
Re screwing the ring off it for fastest acceleration....it is not the max engine torque that counts, it is the maximum torque at the gearbox output shaft or rear wheel so what you need to do is...
1) Get the engine torque curve for your bike
2) get a list of the gear box ratios for your bike
3) Get MS XL and learn how to make graphs
4) Column 1, list the torque values at 50 rpm increments to the red line
5) Column 2, multiply the engine torque values by the 1st gear ratio
6) Column 3, Multiply the engine torque values by the 2nd gear ratios
7) So on for 3rd, 4th, 5th and 6th.
8) Then make a pretty graph of all the torque values after the gearbox ratios
Still with me?
9) now if you study the graphs you will note that after peak torque is reached, it then begins to drop off.
10) at some point the graph of the dropping of value meets the rising torque value of the next gear up....that is the optimum gear shift point, between those two gears.
11) do this for 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th ect. you will find the optimum shift up point will shift slightly for each.
And that is how you calculate the fastest acceleration shift points.
Errr actually it is.
You are looking at the result, and expecting the equation to equal it. e.g. x = y
If you were given a torque gauge, you understand it is a curve right......so how would you know if you had hit the peak for that particular gear?
That is where the rev counter comes in - as you ride more, you learn more about where the sweet spots are according to engine revs. These may not be the actual peak torque points - but ranges as to where to ride in each gear. e.g. In the street triple you mention below 1st would have a ideal range of say 1,000-4,000, 2nd 2,000-5,000.....
say we call each one of these ranges a1, a2, a3..... for each gear. Now using this tool (rev counter) you have an appropriate time to change gears.
y = ax (where a can be substituted for what ever gear you in).
Where as trying to do this directly via torque gauge will be like playing a round of blackjack.....how high do you go before changing. Change to low and you never get peak torque, however if you go to high - you break 21 and sorry you missed the peak.
Ok the fact I just had to explain to you how to ride a bike has convinced me this is too hard for you......get a scooter. Most people figure this out in the first week on a bike.
Reactor Online. Sensors Online. Weapons Online. All Systems Nominal.
a torque-o-meter would be simple to create.
a shaft that twists under load with 2 pickups - 1 at the driven end, one at the drive end. the split between the two pickups measures the torque output.
Concentrate on the road not the guages. Experience will tell you when to change gears thru sound and feel.
Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow arent just the 4 cycles of an engine
What you say is true and strain gauges would measure the twist very well. However, where are you going to mount it in the drive train so that it doesn't have to go round and round?
The signals that the measuring devices produce are very small so that commutators/slip rings etc screw them up completely.
I may not be as good as I once was, but I'm as good once as I always was.
Maybe because using too much of your torque won't destory the motor, but too many RPMs will?
Close but no cigar. Ford (MoCo) developed a driveshaft steel in the late 90's which gave an altered resistance figure dependant on the amount of force twisting it. It did required a trasmitter and reciever but that sort of electronics is ho-hum these days.
Lots of cool tricks you can do with that technology i.e Measure input shaft force and output shaft force, apply gearing mutiplication math and then weep as you see how inefficient the gearbag is
Elegant engineering also just to actually measure what interests you rather than apply endless bullshit to the equation.
Gear shifting: on a sequential gearbox a slow shift would be 0.2 sec.
0.1 if you were trying hard, 0.15 sec without much thought
If using an ignition cut flat shift, typical cut times are around 11 thousanths of a second. The 'dog' only needs the force off it momentarily to disengage. Re-engaging sorts itself out as the there are a few degrees rotation availible between front face and back face engagement. The undercut does the rest.
Torque - o -meter
Once you know the torque curves absolutes become irrelevant as variances due to external factors is less than 3%. It is sufficient to have a target RPM plus or minus 100 rpm.
Unless RPM is measured from a crank angle sensor it is at best a guide anyhoo.
The theory is all very wonderful for cluttering up the interweb. What you you really want to achieve and how much are you prepared to spend to learn it?
As for me? I'll just be riding mine.
"I don't like it, and I'm sorry I ever had anything to do with it." -- Erwin Schrodinger talking about quantum mechanics.
On an electronic engine torque can be calculated electronically ie:
X amount of Torque can be produced at a given RPM, the torque being produced will be a calclation of actual fuel injector pulse width divided by maximum pulse width available at that same RPM, you then would know what % of the available torque you are using
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