Idle speed on a Honda CBR250RR?

[overworkedmonkey]

Now I have ridden a number of bikes in my past life and the CBR250RR seems to be the most different. Whilst riding i.e. in second gear, I seem to have to keep the throttle open rather than blipping through the revs which means I am constantly between 8 - 9k in the rev range whereas on previous bikes I could close the throttle and the bike would de-accelerate slowly as opposed to immediately which it does on the CBR250. Is that common and normal? Is it ok if I am constantly within a range?

[tri boy]

Old CBR250RRs are bottomless money pits.
Sounds like yours is in need of a top up. MHO

[overworkedmonkey]

What is that opinion based on?

[tri boy]

What is that opinion based on?

Based on?
This is KB.

My theory is a bit like physics. ie speed time distance etc.

So, old 250 sprotbikes that get thrashed regularly = Faults, Repairs, Frustration.
Oh, and many years working as a m/cycle mech has given me unwordly powers of deduction.
Plus, this is KB.

[overworkedmonkey]

Based on?
This is KB.

My theory is a bit like physics. ie speed time distance etc.

So, old 250 sprotbikes that get thrashed regularly = Faults, Repairs, Frustration.
Oh, and many years working as a m/cycle mech has given me unwordly powers of deduction.
Plus, this is KB.

Based on your powers of deduction, how should the bike behave?

Also am seeking facts as opposed to theories so would be grateful if you could point me in the right direction.

[Slyer]

The bike should slowly decelerate.
You're saying that there is no engine braking? It's like you've got the clutch in when you get off the gas?

[overworkedmonkey]

The bike should slowly decelerate.
You're saying that there is no engine braking? It's like you've got the clutch in when you get off the gas?

There is engine braking. What I mean is that the bike seems to decelerate (engine braking) immediately if I close the throttle. Now what I am doing is to blip to match the revs as I drop a gear, letting the clutch out slowly and opening the throttle slowly to avoid engine braking.

[Slyer]

Then all is well, they're meant to do that.
A badly tuned/adjusted bike will do as you described for your old bike.

[overworkedmonkey]

Then all is well, they're meant to do that.
A badly tuned/adjusted bike will do as you described for your old bike.

Sweet. Thanks mate.

[Katman]

Triboy is onto it.

20 year old multi-cylinder 250s have had 20 years of being raped.

Those who purchase them are destined to valleys of tears.

[overworkedmonkey]

Triboy is onto it.

20 year old multi-cylinder 250s have had 20 years of being raped.

Those who purchase them are destined to valleys of tears.

I would agree however what if they have been regularly serviced. See many KB'ers here noting riding their bikes well into their 100,000 kms or more

[SMOKEU]

Old CBR250RRs are bottomless money pits.
Sounds like yours is in need of a top up. MHO

They're not much different from a CBR250R in terms of the mechanicals. I've had mine for about 2 years and I thrash the absolute phuck out of mine. The only thing that has ever gone wrong with mine is the fuel pump died. Try thrashing an old WRX or turbo Skyline like that and then you'll see what a real money pit is.

[SMOKEU]

It should also idle at around 1500RPM, regardless of what gear you're in if you pull the clutch in fully. The idle adjustment screw is very easy to access, it's tucked in by the left fairing and no tools are required to access it or adjust it.

[overworkedmonkey]

It should also idle at around 1500RPM, regardless of what gear you're in if you pull the clutch in fully. The idle adjustment screw is very easy to access, it's tucked in by the left fairing and no tools are required to access it or adjust it.

Thanks SMOKEU. Been reading the service manuals and some of the other material online and it is suggested that the choke not be used when starting the engine unless it fails to start. It suggests to start the bike, open the throttle below 6,000 revolutions for a couple of second and let the bike warm up. Take it that it should be at 1500 RPM after it has started warming up. Also take it that if it is below 1500 RPM, I should adjust it so that it stays at 1500 RPM.

After it has warmed up after 3 -5 minutes, ride off slowly and it should be warm enough in 5 - 10 minutes to have the bike go through higher revolutions.

[SMOKEU]

Thanks SMOKEU. Been reading the service manuals and some of the other material online and it is suggested that the choke not be used when starting the engine unless it fails to start. It suggests to start the bike, open the throttle below 6,000 revolutions for a couple of second and let the bike warm up. Take it that it should be at 1500 RPM after it has started warming up. Also take it that if it is below 1500 RPM, I should adjust it so that it stays at 1500 RPM.

After it has warmed up after 3 -5 minutes, ride off slowly and it should be warm enough in 5 - 10 minutes to have the bike go through higher revolutions.

You'll probably do more harm than good by letting the engine idle for a few minutes while it's cold. Start it up, and as soon as it starts behaving itself, ride away gently.