Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 48

Thread: Advice needed on mountain bikes

  1. #16
    Join Date
    12th January 2004 - 12:00
    Bike
    '87 CR500, '10 RM144
    Location
    'Kura, Auckland, Kiwiland
    Posts
    3,728
    Didn't see it in the above posts, but I reckon double walled rims are a must if you're gonna 'use' it. That's what i kill first.... And v brakes are sweet, just chuck good pads in 'em. They aren't all the same
    Drew for Prime Minister!

    www.oldskoolperformance.com

    www.prospeedmc.com for parts ex U.S.A ( He's a Kiwi! )

  2. #17
    Join Date
    3rd March 2008 - 11:55
    Bike
    ST2 NZ250
    Location
    The evil flatlands
    Posts
    2,320
    For your budget you'll have to be getting an awesomely good deal to get anything decent new, so something second hand is probably a better bet. From my limited experience...

    If you're 6'2" you're looking at a large (around 21") frame
    V brakes are ok unless you plan on getting dirty, then your pads are eating your rims
    Good cable discs are as good as if not better than cheap hydraulics
    8 speed parts are cheaper than 9 speed parts if you buy a bike needing some work
    Find someone that knows there way around a bike to go shopping with you.

    I have bought a couple of cheap 'project' bikes in the past, something that costs about $100 to buy off trademe is usually going to cost at least twice that to make into a presentable bike, but it's still cheaper than buying a bike in good going order because people are wary of stuff that needs work.
    Riding cheap crappy old bikes badly since 1987

    Tagorama maps: Transalpers map first 100 tags..................Map of tags 101-200......................Latest map, tag # 201-->

  3. #18
    Join Date
    16th September 2004 - 16:48
    Bike
    PopTart Katoona
    Location
    CT, USA
    Posts
    6,542
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by neels View Post
    I have bought a couple of cheap 'project' bikes in the past, something that costs about $100 to buy off trademe is usually going to cost at least twice that to make into a presentable bike, but it's still cheaper than buying a bike in good going order because people are wary of stuff that needs work.
    I just did this recently.
    My total bill thus far has been $125.
    I was going stir crazy as I needed some pedaling.
    Bike cost $80 I think. Most of the stuff needed doing was modding and cleaning. But I have changed the pedals to platforms (Until I can find some cheap triple traps), put new grips on it, and some second hand tyres.
    Its funny though as all the gear I took off it I sold for $20 (indicators, lights etc).

    I remember back in the days an STX RC selector used to cost me $250........and yet now I have a working bike for just over $100.
    Reactor Online. Sensors Online. Weapons Online. All Systems Nominal.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    16th September 2004 - 16:48
    Bike
    PopTart Katoona
    Location
    CT, USA
    Posts
    6,542
    Blog Entries
    1
    If the OP want me to make another Frankenstein bike for him let me know.
    I quite enjoyed it.
    Reactor Online. Sensors Online. Weapons Online. All Systems Nominal.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    18th December 2008 - 18:47
    Bike
    XV 535
    Location
    Epsomish
    Posts
    1,156
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by avgas View Post
    If the OP want me to make another Frankenstein bike for him let me know.
    I quite enjoyed it.
    Hmmm very tempting haha where in NZ are ya? EDIT - Oh auckland City ay, I'm in Epsom maself

    depending on what comes up in the stores and on Trademe I might just buy one straight off the bat, if not I'll keep this as an idea!
    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    you dont get 180+ hp out of 998cc by being nice to trees.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    18th December 2008 - 18:47
    Bike
    XV 535
    Location
    Epsomish
    Posts
    1,156
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by avgas View Post
    - When you get front suspension ALWAYS get "lock outs" as this makes road riding better.
    I assume that's the way you change the suspension travel?

    Gotta love google....
    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    you dont get 180+ hp out of 998cc by being nice to trees.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    3rd March 2008 - 11:55
    Bike
    ST2 NZ250
    Location
    The evil flatlands
    Posts
    2,320
    Quote Originally Posted by Hiflyer View Post
    I assume that's the way you change the suspension travel?
    So you can lock the suspension. Useful on a full suspension bike on the road, but got it on the front of all my mountainbikes and never used it on any of them, if you're bouncing that much when you're pedalling on the road I'd say you're doing it wrong.
    Riding cheap crappy old bikes badly since 1987

    Tagorama maps: Transalpers map first 100 tags..................Map of tags 101-200......................Latest map, tag # 201-->

  8. #23
    Join Date
    10th September 2008 - 21:23
    Bike
    Tyre Shredder
    Location
    Valley of the Sun
    Posts
    1,068
    Quote Originally Posted by neels View Post
    So you can lock the suspension. Useful on a full suspension bike on the road, but got it on the front of all my mountainbikes and never used it on any of them, if you're bouncing that much when you're pedalling on the road I'd say you're doing it wrong.
    After a couple of runs forgetting to take the pop loc off I decided i'd rather struggle up the hills, than crap myself down them.... ripped the lever off - sorted. Actually made me a better climber as I had to focus on technique (not that I was ever good at climbing).
    Ciao Marco

  9. #24
    Join Date
    22nd August 2003 - 22:33
    Bike
    ...
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    4,205
    Blog Entries
    5
    for a weekend warrier lockout front suspension is a waste of time. you shoudn't be climbing over the front wheel anyway. balance your weight between front and rear to stop the front from lifting on steep climbs. it shouldn't bounce. on fast short climbs there is little to be gained from locking out for the 5-10 seconds of climb unless you are trying to qualify for the worlds.

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-352963703.htm

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-352048492.htm

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-351564829.htm

    the Kona is bit more specialised and they tend to be a little heavier, but they are also fantasticly strong commuter and skate-park bikes - my 6'5" 105kg son hasn't broken his one yet and he rides vert ramp on it! (his is single speed, not 8 speed though)

  10. #25
    Join Date
    18th December 2008 - 18:47
    Bike
    XV 535
    Location
    Epsomish
    Posts
    1,156
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by marty View Post
    for a weekend warrier lockout front suspension is a waste of time. you shoudn't be climbing over the front wheel anyway. balance your weight between front and rear to stop the front from lifting on steep climbs. it shouldn't bounce. on fast short climbs there is little to be gained from locking out for the 5-10 seconds of climb unless you are trying to qualify for the worlds.

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-352963703.htm

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-352048492.htm

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-351564829.htm

    the Kona is bit more specialised and they tend to be a little heavier, but they are also fantasticly strong commuter and skate-park bikes - my 6'5" 105kg son hasn't broken his one yet and he rides vert ramp on it! (his is single speed, not 8 speed though)
    Those last two are out of my price range at the mo unfortunately. In regards to the Kona though, would that really be appropriate for a commute??

    What about these?

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=352277271

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=352962135

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=353240294
    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    you dont get 180+ hp out of 998cc by being nice to trees.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    18th December 2008 - 18:47
    Bike
    XV 535
    Location
    Epsomish
    Posts
    1,156
    Blog Entries
    2
    Couple of people told me to make sure I don;t buy a commuter bike, like this one,

    But I like the sound of this one, even tough it only has rim brakes

    should I be wary?
    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    you dont get 180+ hp out of 998cc by being nice to trees.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    10th September 2008 - 21:23
    Bike
    Tyre Shredder
    Location
    Valley of the Sun
    Posts
    1,068
    Quote Originally Posted by Hiflyer View Post
    Couple of people told me to make sure I don;t buy a commuter bike, like this one,

    But I like the sound of this one, even tough it only has rim brakes

    should I be wary?
    I'd avoid , the frame being no name is one thing, but the componentry being no name is asking for trouble..... (it's the components that have all the moving parts). Strictly as a commuter the frame might be ok, but the wheels/drivetrain etc won't last - and chances are when you take it to the bike shop they'll be throwaway items. The other 2 bikes have name brand components and are known brands, so should be ok.
    Ciao Marco

  13. #28
    Join Date
    18th December 2008 - 18:47
    Bike
    XV 535
    Location
    Epsomish
    Posts
    1,156
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by hiss View Post
    I'd avoid , the frame being no name is one thing, but the componentry being no name is asking for trouble..... (it's the components that have all the moving parts). Strictly as a commuter the frame might be ok, but the wheels/drivetrain etc won't last - and chances are when you take it to the bike shop they'll be throwaway items. The other 2 bikes have name brand components and are known brands, so should be ok.
    Fair enough, I thought Malvern was quite big in Aus, sys they've been in business since 1902

    http://www.malvernstar.com.au/about/
    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    you dont get 180+ hp out of 998cc by being nice to trees.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    10th September 2008 - 21:23
    Bike
    Tyre Shredder
    Location
    Valley of the Sun
    Posts
    1,068
    Quote Originally Posted by Hiflyer View Post
    Fair enough, I thought Malvern was quite big in Aus, sys they've been in business since 1902

    http://www.malvernstar.com.au/about/
    I'd heard of malvern star but not malvern (assumed it was a copy of sorts - my bad for not reading). The componentry is definitely suspect though.... shimano make good componentry (although in this case I haven't heard of them doing 7 spd stuff for a looong time) - but the rest is very budget. If you're gonna use it to go get the bread from the dairy, or do a short commute might be fine.... but wouldn't be up for any off road work and I'd say you'd be replacing stuff within a short time period.
    Ciao Marco

  15. #30
    Join Date
    9th January 2005 - 22:12
    Bike
    Street Triple R
    Location
    christchurch
    Posts
    8,368
    Quote Originally Posted by Hiflyer View Post
    Those last two are out of my price range at the mo unfortunately. In regards to the Kona though, would that really be appropriate for a commute??

    What about these?

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=352277271

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=352962135

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=353240294
    my pick of those is the Giant XTC, all other things being equal. for the money you're spending it is all about compromise. Why i picked the Giant: Giant are a decent "Budget" brand (and in fact make some damn good bikes). it has components I have heard of. It looks OK condition wise. Its 27 speed. Its got disc brakes

    Never ever buy a bike (or motorbike) without looking at it and test riding it. Note too that guy has zero feedback.

    You want to assess its condition, whether it needs any of the consumable parts replaced, what the tyres are like, whether the forks go up and down, whether it shifts gears properly, and whether there are clunks and squeaks or rattles. Plus whether you like the seat, bars pegs etc.

    use flat pedals (not too aggressive) because you dont want to have to buy shoes and cleats as well. Plus they are a bitch to set up, and if you do it wrong you are asking for hip, knee and ankle problems. Its worth getting a bike fit from a LBS: cost you some money but worth it in the long term.

    Buy yourself a decent set of bike shorts. Wear other shorts over them if you must. Your arse will thank me.... www.groundeffect.co.nz locals, made in NZ, really decent kit and it lasts. Yes a pair of bike shorts costs $100: just suck it up.


    dont be concerned about whether it shifts into or pedals well in gear combos you will never use (cross chaining): smallest on the front and smallest on the back, and biggest on the front and biggest on the back. That one in particular strains the crap out of your chain and derailleur. And if your chain is too short and you fuck it up, it has potential to rip the fucker right off the frame (bitter experience talking.....).

    things that are consumable items on a pushbike: tyres. brake pads. cables. rear clusters, chains. front chainrings (though you will get two clusters and two chains to one set of chainrings generally)

    If your budget stretches to it, and it fits:

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Sports/Cycl...-353585284.htm

    all it would need is a set of mudguards (you need them on a commuter bike, trust me) and maybe an upgrade to discs, and that is a capable bike. Surly are cool, too.
    I thought elections were decided by angry posts on social media. - F5 Dave

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •