Bike sparky help needed.

[bogan]

Using the charging system test my stator is within range between the yellow wires. But on the test to earth I get no continuity. I presume as I have it out of the bike for the earth I just put the negative to the centre that mounts to the engine.

Guess then my stator is toast?

No continuity is good for the earth test. Being out of the bike it might not show an earth that could occur when it is installed though. However, it's very unlikely that is your problem, get it to run first, then check the charging system.

[nzspokes]

Right, Just spent ages re-testing things using the guide. And i think the ststor is in spec. But the reg/rect is showing no reading on the first 2 diode tests and 560v on the last. I think ive just found my problem.

I re-checked the stator housing and found an oil drain back to the motor. So its wet.

[nzspokes]

Your stator should not earth out. If it's earthing out, fix it. You should have under 1 ohm resistance between any two stator wires.
I'm assuming it's a three wire stator?

All 3 are 1.1 ohm.

[ducatilover]

All 3 are 1.1 ohm.

Minus the resistance of your test leads?

[neels]

How many wires (and what colours) does the rec/reg have going to it?

Do you mean 560Ω? 560V seems a little odd...

[nzspokes]

Minus the resistance of your test leads?

Good point, they are .3 ohm.

So with no reading on 2 of the diode tests on the reg/ret am I right in thinking thats at fault?

[nzspokes]

How many wires (and what colours) does the rec/reg have going to it?

Do you mean 560Ω? 560V seems a little odd...

3 yellow, red, green and black. Sorry that would be 560mv.

[ducatilover]

Good point, they are .3 ohm.

So with no reading on 2 of the diode tests on the reg/ret am I right in thinking thats at fault?

It could well be the problem, I'm not too up to play with reg/recs though, I think I have problems with mine too

[nzspokes]

It could well be the problem, I'm not too up to play with reg/recs though, I think I have problems with mine too

You wouldnt believe how good it feels to find something wrong.

[bogan]

You wouldnt believe how good it feels to find something wrong.

You should buy a kawasaki then, and get that feeling every time you ride it. Mwahahaha

[ducatilover]

You should buy a kawasaki then, and get that feeling every time you ride it. Mwahahaha

Shush you....bloody Honda reliability.... mumble mumble why did I sell my Honda....mumble grumble

[nzspokes]

Well fucked if I know. Ive spent hours on it tonight. New rec/reg. Good power coming out of it. Just no power getting to the CDI. Checked ignition switch even. Pulled it apart. Cleaned. Still no power/spark. Im so over this shit.

[pete376403]

have you tried running a wire direct from battery + to the cdi as was suggested earlier?
To have 12v at the battery and 1v at the CDI indicates a very high resistance somewhere between the two.

Is the engine rubber mounted? Is there an earth link between the engine and the frame?
Is the CDI/ ignition unit rubber mounted, and if so is there an earth link between it and the frame?
All earth points (battery and the loom) clean and tight?

[nzspokes]

have you tried running a wire direct from battery + to the cdi as was suggested earlier?
To have 12v at the battery and 1v at the CDI indicates a very high resistance somewhere between the two.

Is the engine rubber mounted? Is there an earth link between the engine and the frame?
Is the CDI/ ignition unit rubber mounted, and if so is there an earth link between it and the frame?
All earth points (battery and the loom) clean and tight?

There is an earth from the motor to the battery. But for the life of me I cannot find one from the loom to the frame. Which is odd but the battery only earths to the motor to.

Would like to run 12v to the cdi but I dont know which one to put it to. I dont have and cant get a wireing diagram. Or manual either. That would make life so much easier.

[bogan]

+1 to pete's suggestion. If it works as suspected, then use the voltmeter (as suggested earlier) to isolate which part of the loom is dropping the voltage, it should read almost zero across an two points on either the positive, or negative side. If it doesn't move the test points closer together until you narrow the fault down.