Year I use to just use toothbrush and kerosene and have a tray for the kero to drip into under the chain. Would roll it backward or forward to get to the next dirty part of the chain. wear gloves as its messy job and try not get kero onto the tyre. I would give the chain a nice wipe down with dry cloth before I lubed it.. Did the same to lube it as well roll backward. Now bike I have at moment has a scott oiler works well but sometimes still put some spray lube on as well. The chain stays alot cleaner with a scott oiler as well I have noticed.
"We are not human beings having a spiritual experience. We are spiritual beings having a human experience."
LongER life perhaps. I know the theory of O ring (X ring, etc) between the side plate but what keeps the lubricant from exiting between the end of the roller and the inner side of the side plate? There has to be clearance there to allow the roller to rotate on the bushing. The last x ring chain I replaced was in quite good condition wrt chain elongation (aka stretch) which is wear between the pins and the bushes, but the rollers were flopping around on the bushings. This chain had been well lubed during it's life.
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
If the bike was new, then there would be no wear on the sprockets then....
In fact, we do in fact swap the race bikes gearing all the time, but in the case of the OP we are talking road bikes here, and the simple fact is that it is false economy just to change once component in the drive line at a time.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks