Flat battery?

[paturoa]

Gladarse bump start with a totally flat battery? No, the ECU, fuel injection and fuel pump need some power for both fuel and spark. An "almost" flat FI zook can be bump / push started, but no for totally flat. "Almost" can vary a lot, but if the fuel pump does a normal cycle and the dash look normal then you have a 50/50 chance.

For charging, you dont have to disconnect the battery leads for a propper bike charger. There are several around. I have an Optimate.

When a lead acid bat is run dead flat they are never as good ever again. Most good batteries can survive a few discharge / charge cycles without too much of a reduction. However some don't survive one. Its a result of a thing called sulphation (google it)

If you can start it, the bike will charge it if your riding it.

Remember any lead acid bat that has been flattened will nver be the same again.

[sleemanj]

Update : put it in after 10 hours. lights lit up but wouldnt turn over. Put it back onto charge. Im guessing i have to wait another few hours.

What charger are you using?

10 hours should be piles to get enough in to turn it over even with a small capacity charger. If it's not even turning over... I'd say you have either a bigger issue, or a REALLY dead battery.

If you have a multimeter, run it across the terminals (in DC mode, to measure the voltage) and see what it says for a start.

Edit to add: I know it sounds stupid, but check that it's in neutral and your kill switch isn't active, you wouldn't be the first person in the world to miss that.

[mattian]

What charger are you using?

10 hours should be piles to get enough in to turn it over even with a small capacity charger. If it's not even turning over... I'd say you have either a bigger issue, or a REALLY dead battery.

If you have a multimeter, run it across the terminals (in DC mode, to measure the voltage) and see what it says for a start.

Edit to add: I know it sounds stupid, but check that it's in neutral and your kill switch isn't active, you wouldn't be the first person in the world to miss that.

Im using this charger http://www.thewarehouse.co.nz/red/ca...581?SKU=456174
I dont have a multimeter. The handbook says 12-15 hours of charging. Bear in mind that my battery was dead flat.... not even a flicker.
so, im just going to let it run its course.

[p.dath]

It is starting to sound to me like your battery needs to be replaced. How old is it?

[mattian]

My battery is brand new bro. Got it a few weeks ago.
ok. its not working... I dunno what the fucks going on. Im going to go buy a new battery in the morning.

[p.dath]

My battery is brand new bro. Got it a few weeks ago.
ok. its not working... I dunno what the fucks going on. Im going to go buy a new battery in the morning.

You may have a dud. Sounds like it is not holding a charge.

I'd take it back and get them to load test it.

[dangerous]

My battery is brand new bro. Got it a few weeks ago.
ok. its not working... I dunno what the fucks going on. Im going to go buy a new battery in the morning.

hang on... why is it brand new? the bikes only 2yrs old, the origional should be good for a min of 5 good years, and I doubt very much its a wet lead acid, if thats what you replaced it with then I reconmend you get the correct battary.

Thanks for that. Yep ive put the battery back on to charge. Was just worried about over charging it. It is a cheap warehouse job recharge kit.

Well as always, ya get what ya pay for.

"Power" only flows where there is a difference in potential.
If only the positive terminal is connected to the bike, then potential difference between the positive battery terminal and the bike is zero - no current will flow.
If you attach a charger to the battery the potential difference between the bike and the battery terminal is still zero.
You can verify the potential difference is zero by measuring the voltage between the only remaining connected battery terminal (positive in this case) and the rest of the bike.

but some reckon its safer to jump start an engine with the lead conected to the pos but the neg conected to the engine (talking car here) on the running vehicle?

[mattian]

Yep. I had a new battery put in after I had the regulator replaced under the suzuki regulator replacement programme. I suspected for a long time that the original battery wasnt charging properly.
anyway.... I've stuffed it up big time. Im off to get a new battery.

[p.dath]

but some reckon its safer to jump start an engine with the lead conected to the pos but the neg conected to the engine (talking car here) on the running vehicle?

That's a different problem you are trying to solve.

It's not clear to me why this is done.

When lead acid batteries charge they produce hydrogen and oxygen, and some people talk about the risk of causing a battery explosion by causing a spark when you attach jumper leads directly to the battery terminals. I find this idea a little weak myself. When was the last time you heard of someone's car exploding as they attached jumper leads? A lot of batteries are sealed these days anyway. But the last thing you want is a battery explosion spewing acid everywhere as your leaning over it attached a jumper lead ... so I'll be attaching the earth lead to the chassis just in case.

[sleemanj]

Yep. I had a new battery put in after I had the regulator replaced under the suzuki regulator replacement programme. I suspected for a long time that the original battery wasnt charging properly.
anyway.... I've stuffed it up big time. Im off to get a new battery.

When you get the bike running, I strongly suggest getting a multimeter and putting it on your battery terminals (DC mode) with the bike running. You should see 14.something volts, much more than that and your regulator is killing batteries, much less than that and it's not doing jack. I wouldn't be surprised if your replacement regulator is busted too, probably on the high side.

[mattian]

Thanks very much folks.
Regulators fine. Charging normally. It was my own charging of my flat battery that killed it. Cheap warehouse rubbish !
Im going to get a proper multi-meter. Put in a brand new battery this morning $95 later.
Now someones going to come on here and tell me where I could have got it cheaper. It was an emergency and I didnt have time to shop around.
Oh well. At least I know where I went wrong. Thoroughly dissapointed with myself but resolve not to let this happen again.

cheers !

[Edbear]

Thanks very much folks.
Regulators fine. Charging normally. It was my own charging of my flat battery that killed it. Cheap warehouse rubbish !
Im going to get a proper multi-meter. Put in a brand new battery this morning $95 later.
Now someones going to come on here and tell me where I could have got it cheaper. It was an emergency and I didnt have time to shop around.
Oh well. At least I know where I went wrong. Thoroughly dissapointed with myself but resolve not to let this happen again.

cheers !

I couldn't do one cheaper of course but I do sell the best in the world...

[sleemanj]

Thanks very much folks.
Regulators fine. Charging normally. It was my own charging of my flat battery that killed it. Cheap warehouse rubbish !

FWIW, I have used that (Arlec) cheap warehouse rubbish and similar to it for some years, on much smaller batteries than is likely in your bike.

That normally working cheap warehouse rubbish would not have destroyed your (typical) battery, of course it could have been faulty cheap warehouse rubbish.

$95 sounds about right for a battery of the size I expect you required, you wouldn't get it much cheaper.

[FJRider]

That's a different problem you are trying to solve.

It's not clear to me why this is done.

When lead acid batteries charge they produce hydrogen and oxygen, and some people talk about the risk of causing a battery explosion by causing a spark when you attach jumper leads directly to the battery terminals. I find this idea a little weak myself. When was the last time you heard of someone's car exploding as they attached jumper leads? A lot of batteries are sealed these days anyway. But the last thing you want is a battery explosion spewing acid everywhere as your leaning over it attached a jumper lead ... so I'll be attaching the earth lead to the chassis just in case.

Connecting the Neg (earth) to the engine lowers the chance of spark (moves the earth and possible spark [on earthing] away from the battery) ... so BOTH practices are related. Yes some batterys did explode whilst jump starting ... better quality batterys and cars (charging systems) have reduced this problem. However ... it may still happen in some circumstances/conditions. Ignore the advice at your peril.

[FJRider]

My battery is brand new bro. Got it a few weeks ago.
ok. its not working... I dunno what the fucks going on. Im going to go buy a new battery in the morning.

Take it back to where you bought it. There should be a warranty ... or as stated ... an issue with the battery when you bought it.